Epson EH-LS11000/12000 owners thread

I recently got an 1100 and have noticed something weird I'd just like to check with others...

It's a difference between HDMI 1&2.
I have the projector connected to a PC and when connected to HDMI the image has the (L/R) sides chopped off.
If I move the cable to HDMI-2, it's all good.
Is there any reason why the would happen? Does the same thing happen for others?

Cheers,
RB
 
Each hdmi will store settings separately I think.

Try overscan or masking or aspect ratio.
 
I feel really dumb but is there any way to reset the lens shift and optical zoom to its default placement for the ls12000?
 
I feel really dumb but is there any way to reset the lens shift and optical zoom to its default placement for the ls12000?
On the TW9400 it can be done with holding down the Lens -button on the remote for ~5 seconds or so.
 
NEW 4th Firmware update for EH-LS12000B

WWV114.2 Fixed bugs and functions are improved.

source:
 

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Click the information button on your remote.
Latest firmware in - takes about 4/5 mins, I used FAT32 formatted 7GB USB drive.
If you look at Version, then Main - ending digits should be now WWV114
Testing now
 

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So, do you see any improvement with the new Fimware?
Dolby Vision support ? :D
 
I don't see any improvement, but then the picture is already excellent. The release notes don't mention anything about picture improvements.
 
I just had my LS1100 replaced due to a stuck pixel.

The replacement has a much better picture.... Weird right?
It's the structure of the pixels that is different, maybe it's a setting that I accidentally changed??

Basically, on the new unit it is much harder to see the pixel seperation on screen.
The 1st unit not only had a very noticable screen door, but the actual shape or structure seemed different. (see pic)
There were thick horizontal lines between rows, and thinner vertical lines between columns giving the impression of rectanglular pixels up close.



So I wonder, is this likeley to be a fault that others might want to check for themselves, or just some setting I had enabled?

Incase it matters, for both projectors:

-I am sending a custom resolution from PC (3440x1440)

-My GPU can only handle 60Hz over HDMI

-Screen is about 3m wide, view distance 4m, lens distance 5m.
-faulty Projector was on FW 114, replacement is still on 110

Anyway, I'm super happy with the replacement unit, but wanted to share what I discovered incase it helps someone else out.
 

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When the projector is correctly focused you should normally be able to see a fine pixel grid when up very close (screen texture might make this less prominent though). This is normal for LCD projectors but you shouldn't be able to see it when more than a few feet away from the screen or at normal seating distance.

If I remember correctly, the first firmware for these projectors (I have LS12000) had a softer image and Epson made improvements to the pixel shifting that improved this, giving a sharper image, so that might be what you are seeing.

Or it could just be that the projector isn't quite focused or the panel alignment needs adjusting.

However, if the image looks better than what you had before (ignoring the stuck pixel), then you may want to leave it as it is (no need to fix what isn't broken!)
 
Thank you for the adding some info there.

In my case the focus was set fine.
From the pic you should be able to see that the horizontal lines are much thicker than the vertical ones.

I'll try and find out more about panel alignment, but in the mean time I am worried about FW upgrade - incase that was the difference.
Do these projectors allow installing old FW over new as a way back?
 
The lines should be thin and the same both horizontally and vertically so there might have been a fault with the pixel shifter in your previous projector.

I'm not sure whether you can go back to an earlier firmware but the Epson website only has the latest available to download, so unless you have a copy of the old firmware file you will not be able to go back.

If it looks good then you may want to just leave it as it is if you are not having any problems.
 
My only concern with leaving the current FW is I think they introduced some fixes and improvements since the base FW.

I've got 113 and 114 saved locally so if others can confirm that they are on one of those versions without the lines shown in my pic then I would conclude it is not the FW doing it and can safely upgrade. As you say, probably a fault in the original unit.
 
Hello,
Does anyone have the calibration parameters for the ls12000 and HDFURY vertex 2 from Anthony Chan or David Harper. I would like to try. THANKS
 
It’s been a long time since I looked at or thought of updating my tw9400. Are there any here that made the move from 9400 to 12000 and think it was worthwhile?

I’d like a jvc but they’re just so expensive I can’t do it. But I don’t want a sidegrade as the 12000 is still a fair bit of ££
 
It’s been a long time since I looked at or thought of updating my tw9400. Are there any here that made the move from 9400 to 12000 and think it was worthwhile?

I’d like a jvc but they’re just so expensive I can’t do it. But I don’t want a sidegrade as the 12000 is still a fair bit of ££
Go second hand jvc over ls12000
 
It’s been a long time since I looked at or thought of updating my tw9400. Are there any here that made the move from 9400 to 12000 and think it was worthwhile?

I’d like a jvc but they’re just so expensive I can’t do it. But I don’t want a sidegrade as the 12000 is still a fair bit of ££
Agreed with Kenshi if it’s just for movies but the 120hz gaming mode of the LS12000 is very cool if you’re interested in that. Plus the fan noise in high mode with HDR material is really loud.
 
Hi guys, new to these forums (from Australia) so treat me well haha.

Am about to purchase Epson LS12000. Still doing research on 16.9 vs 2.35 screen as I'll be 50% movies and 50% gaming. Leaning towards 2.35 but haven't decided yet.

The lens of the LS12000 will be around 4.6m from the screen (so around 15 foot).

Want to go a screen as big as possible, but kind of confused here. What screen size (in diagonal inches) should I go with? Ideally wanted a 135" or 140" screen but is the throw distance ok? For example, on projector central website, for a 135" 2.35 screen, it says I need a throw distance of 5.77m (nearly 19 foot). But I have read in forums that people have the lens over 4.2m away on 135" screen (although that was 16.9).

Any advice on what screen size I should go with?

My room is 5.2m x 3.9m (so 17 x 12.8 foot) but as mentioned, the lens will be around 4.6m (15 foot) from screen.

Cheers!
 
15' says 153"

Don't forget to use the zoom slider.

A 2.35:1 screen can have a wider viewing angle than a 16:9 screen.

I like 1.9:1 for 1.78/1.85:1 material on a 2.35:1 screen .

Gamers seem to like smaller screens so they don't have to search too far around the screen.
 
Depends on whether you are restricted on width or height of the screen? Opinions vary, but in my view unless you are height restricted then go 16:9 as you are just getting all that extra screen size for 16:9 content for free.

Does mean you will have black bars top and bottom for scope content, but you might be able to come up with some sort of masking. For instance I lens shift down to the bottom of the screen and put up masking for the top.
 
If your seating g distance is ~12'

SMPTE recommended 125" 2.35:1

Most peoplefind this too small.

You should think about how bright you want your screen for your room conditions, the gain of the screen and if the ls12000 can get dim enough.
 
In my opinion scope isn't any better if you can see the light overspill on the frame/wall/speaker.
 
@chhanthony Epson LS12000 4K PRO-UHD Laser Projector Review

States 100" 1.0 gain calibrated at 50% laser gives 21ftL sdr

I like 14ftl can you comment on minimum lumens?

Unless your point of sale has better information, I calculate the LS12000 min lumens is 624


Play around with screen size, gain and lumens for your desired Foot Lambert.

135" 2.35:1 1.0 gain should set min brightness for sdr and give max headroom for hdr.

125" 2.35 0 8 gain might give better light control.

You could always sacrifice headroom for screen size or light control.
 

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