Yet another Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI board issue - Attempted repair not working

physicsboy

Member
Hi All,

I know, I know... Not another lonely wanderer harping on about the dreaded Onkyo TX-SR606 HDMI issue. However this has a little bit of a twist.

I did the usual rounds on YouTube looking at the known issues with the HDMI board issues and how the biggest, bestest way to fix this is to replace the main 100uF 4V capacitors. So I ordered a bunch of capacitors and I busted out my trusty soldering iron and I got to work doing my best to not make a hash of it.

Everything seems to have been soldered successfully, no loose connections, correct polarity (black side to the squared end of the board diagram etc.

Then I plug it all back in, hopeful and expecting things to work hunky dory. But to no avail! It seems that things still aren't working and I'm not a little bit lost on what to do/where to go with this.

One thing I did notice though... When I plug a HDMI cable into one of the ports and select that channel, it does actually acknowledge that an HDMI is connected as you can see from the display:

IMG_20210917_163510.jpg


May there be something else I will have/may have missed in attempting to fix this?

For full disclosure, I did buy this second hand from someone who has NEVER used the HDMI ports.

Here are some photos of the capacitors I replaced:
IMG_20210917_165614.jpg

IMG_20210917_165430__01.jpg
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
Read and follow the recommendations in the attached service bulletin. Worth a try.
 

Attachments

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physicsboy

Member
Read and follow the recommendations in the attached service bulletin. Worth a try.
Ah interesting! Thanks very much for this "Confidential bulletin" ;-)

It appears that my surface regulators are made by Toshiba, so looks like I will be needing to buy some of the "TF capacitor 104" thingy-bobs they make reference to.

And so we go on to another journey!

I just hope that I haven't fried the capacitors that I've recently replaced by leaving the receiver on for a prolonged period in order to test my fixes.

@dobrykamil do you know the actual voltage/capacitance of these capacitors?
Googling the term that they use in the documentation "TF capacitor 104" shows multiple options with various different quoted values...
Screenshot 2021-09-18 080817.png
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
Buy some polyester capacitors like this one. Also, follow the instructions below (should work with tx-sr models too) and check video chip firmware version. If you see under K1, V1 or similar something like this ?????????? then, video chip isn't starting up.
 

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physicsboy

Member
Buy some polyester capacitors like this one. Also, follow the instructions below (should work with tx-sr models too) and check video chip firmware version. If you see under K1, V1 or similar something like this ?????????? then, video chip isn't starting up.
Ah yes, I saw something about the ????? being a symptom on the issue in the docs you attached earlier but wasn't sure what it was referring to. After checking with your last bit of info I can confirm that this is indeed an issue I am seeing.

As for the capacitors, from the docs it looks like a 50V 104J is needed, going off the description, "ECQ-V50V-104J", although it doesn't seem that RS Components stock anything like this. Well..... They do, but they don't look like the brownish ones everyone is showing pictures of... Polyester Film Capacitors | RS Components
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
You don't need 50V caps, because max. voltage for video chip is 3.3v or even 1.8V. Get 16V or 25V caps, they'll do the job.
 

physicsboy

Member
You don't need 50V caps, because max. voltage for video chip is 3.3v or even 1.8V. Get 16V or 25V caps, they'll do the job.
Ah understood!

Well I've gone and bought a few of those capacitors you suggested so we will have to wait and see what happens when they arrive and I whack them in.

Thanks for the much needed advice :)

If anything goes wrong or I have more questions after fitting, I'll continue this thread.
 

physicsboy

Member
You don't need 50V caps, because max. voltage for video chip is 3.3v or even 1.8V. Get 16V or 25V caps, they'll do the job.
@dobrykamil
Finally got my capacitors in and soldered on. The little buggers were being difficult to attach, but I got there in the end.

I fired the machine up again and plugged everything in but still no picture.

I performed the display & power to check the firmware of the video chip and it still displays ????????...

Is there something else I may be missing?
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
Well, we can't really assume that replaced caps did the job. You'll need to check all voltages required by Q8401.
 

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debruina

Novice Member
@dobrykamil
Finally got my capacitors in and soldered on. The little buggers were being difficult to attach, but I got there in the end.

I fired the machine up again and plugged everything in but still no picture.

I performed the display & power to check the firmware of the video chip and it still displays ????????...

Is there something else I may be missing?

If you see all VD????? when displaying the video firmware its because the videoprocessor firmware chip Q8085 is empty. However the video processor is only used when svideo / composite video signals are connected or converted to HDMI and not HDMI to HDMI. Also the OSD is done by the videoprocessor. So if you also have no OSD the flash Q8085 is empty because of bad capacitors in the powerconverters (on the HDMI board). HDMI to HDMI should work

BTW does anyone have the bin file for flash chip Q8085 ? it would be much appreciated
 
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physicsboy

Member
Well, we can't really assume that replaced caps did the job. You'll need to check all voltages required by Q8401.
Hey @dobrykamil - I finally got my hands on a multimeter. Can't beat an £8 job from Screwfix!

I fired everything up and left it running for a few minutes then went in for a check with the probes, and it appears that the voltages are off considerably :-(
I probably should have done these checks before replacing the capacitors.

The voltages are:
ComponentMeasured (V)Expected (V)
L80020.451.8
L80900.023.3

I imagine that the massive drop in L8090 voltage is impacted by the dropoff seen in the L8002.

Is there anything you would suggest based on this info? Or is it a "bin it" job?





Based on your reply about checking the voltages on the Q8401 chip... I'm not sure where abouts to look by going off of the diagram you included (I'm not experienced when it comes to circuit diagrams).

From what I can tell, it seems that I should be checking the L8401 and L8402 voltages for them to be 1.8V and 3.3V respectively, similar to the L8002 and L8090 above. However, looking at the board it seems L8402 is just a pair of unpopulated holes in the board? Should I try to measure the voltage here? (I will insert a photo of the board and the technical diagram for where L8402 is located.)

L8402.png


FYI I will include the page of the service manual featuring the Q8401 chip.
 

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dobrykamil

Well-known Member
Check these three voltage regulators: Q8006 (4V)->Q8005 (3.3V) and Q8008 (1.8V). I bet you 4V is missing hence no 3.3 and 1.8 output.
 

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physicsboy

Member
Check these three voltage regulators: Q8006 (4V)->Q8005 (3.3V) and Q8008 (1.8V). I bet you 4V is missing hence no 3.3 and 1.8 output.
I measured each pin and compiled the diagram below (MS paint for the win!).

Q8005,6,8.png

After observing the Q8008 regulator, it appears that I may have introduced a short circuit with my world class soldering job, however I would defer to your opinion @dobrykamil as to whether this what you expected in your previous message?
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
32.6V on pin 1 of Q8006?? Are you sure? Max voltage present on this hdmi board is 12V.

1633263004533.png
 

physicsboy

Member
32.6V on pin 1 of Q8006?? Are you sure? Max voltage present on this hdmi board is 12V.

View attachment 1580592
I was thinking the same thing when looking at the diagram, "Surely that can't be right?".

I just had a double check and it appears that it is still showing in the 32V range...
Just for more info, I had my multimeter on the AC setting, but I then checked on DC and it came out at 15V which is still larger than 12!

36v.png
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
I would remove L8013 for now, and focus on Q8006 and Q8005. Q8006's output is a bit too high, perhaps voltage dividers (R8931-8934) aren't doing their job right. Also, Q8005's input is basically directly connected to Q8006 output via one wee coil (L8012) hence I don't understand, why you have only 2.2V. Coil must be dodgy or has a dry joint. Check all these components.
1633265384348.png
 

physicsboy

Member
I would remove L8013 for now, and focus on Q8006 and Q8005. Q8006's output is a bit too high, perhaps voltage dividers (R8931-8934) aren't doing their job right. Also, Q8005's input is basically directly connected to Q8006 output via one wee coil (L8012) hence I don't understand, why you have only 2.2V. Coil must be dodgy or has a dry joint. Check all these components.
View attachment 1580620
Yes, definitely some strangeness going on here.

I will have a play with measuring voltages and perhaps investigate my potential botched solder job that may have introduced a short.

It may take a while for me to do everything. I will update when I have everything together :)
 

physicsboy

Member
I would remove L8013 for now, and focus on Q8006 and Q8005. Q8006's output is a bit too high, perhaps voltage dividers (R8931-8934) aren't doing their job right. Also, Q8005's input is basically directly connected to Q8006 output via one wee coil (L8012) hence I don't understand, why you have only 2.2V. Coil must be dodgy or has a dry joint. Check all these components.
View attachment 1580620
Hey @dobrykamil , are you sure its L8013 you want me to remove? The diagram you included shows both L8012 and L8014 but not 13?

After finding it, it also looks a little delicate :-/

L8013.png
 

dobrykamil

Well-known Member
Well, you don’t have to remove it if you don’t have decent solder iron.
 

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