Yamaha RX-V675 Owners Thread

r22flyer

Active Member
Firstly, I paid for something to do a specified job to a satisfactory standard.

May be so but you are just making life hard for yourself unnecessarily.
I would question why you would settle for what is essentially a budget to mid range amp rather than go for something much better? The reason you've not had a solution here is likely because the rest of us are happy with HQ mp3 or 16 bit wav/flac.

sonically, some of the best material I have has been recorded (not so much re-mastered) at 24/96 upwards.

This view is specifically addressed in the article I referred to...

The number one comment I heard from believers in super high rate audio was [paraphrasing]: "I've listened to high rate audio myself and the improvement is obvious. Are you seriously telling me not to trust my own ears?" Of course you can trust your ears. It's brains that are gullible.

and in ABX listening trials between the two...

listeners chose correctly 49.8% of the time. In other words, they were guessing.

I hope you have had the chance to listen to some quality higher bit rate material on a good system.

Yes I have but honestly I can't tell the difference when someone does the AB switching for me.
For recording & mastering there are good reasons to use higher audio specs but for playback its utterly pointless as 16 bit PCM far exceeds the spec of our hearing capability (as the article explains).

The article author goes on to observe...

Controversy exists only within the consumer and enthusiast audiophile communities.

You should really read it in full, watch the videos and save yourself some time, effort and money trying to attain inaudible improvements.
 

Prodeje79

Novice Member
Maybe I should start my own thread, but I will try here first. I am having trouble getting sub output on my 675. I had the same issue with my 673 and they sent me a 673. Once I ran YPAO on both the sub never worked again. It would work before and during YPAO and never again.

I have a WD TV Live and Sony bdp-s590. All HDMI to receiver. I have a Panasonic ST60 plasma.
5.1 setup with all Sony 8ohm speakers.
JBL PB12 sub

I set all speakers to small and crossover to 80. I have the JBL PB12 crossover all the way up 150 to let avr manage. Its Plugged into L and selected lfe on sub. Manual indicates sub cross over switch is disables in life mode anyway. Sub works fine on other receiver. It also works fine just using RCA's from blu-ray. I called Yamaha and went through everything I had tried.

I've toggled different modes.
Surround syfy
Surround movie
Pl2 surround
Straight button
Pure direct button
Movie button

Wow disk LFE test and test tone provides nothing to sub.

I've went through various options, made sure in manual setup that the sub is on, I tried maxing to 10.0. I've tried making fronts large to then try enabliing extra bass. I checked trim and DRC and DSP settings.
Arc off, arc on, tried different HDMI outputs on TV for fun. Ordered new sub cable, tried both sub outputs.

I am wondering if the sub preout is too weak? Perhaps sub has trouble seeing it and stays in standby mode now? Only option is on/off switch. Lights stay red unless detects signal and turns green. I've tried various signals: stereo, dolby, 2.0 , 5.1 , DTS.....


I have a thread at AVS too with some pics taken: subwoofer not working with stereo content Yamaha RX-V673 or 675

I've done a hard reset and now sub still doesn't work. Tried YPAO again and now doesn't see sub at all.

Any other settings I should double check? I'd love to have another sub to test.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Does anyone have a recommendation for a 10 metre hdmi lead , I running a 5 metre one but that was cutting out , and I was getting handshake ,also its not really an ideal length to my pj .

I have seen this one ,BlueRigger HDMI Cable 10.5 Meters - CL3 Rated for: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Any thoughts on this or has anyone got a better one they can point my towards. cheers.

For any distance more than 8m then you are better off using HDMO over Cat5/6 extenders as opposed to long HDMI cables.
 

Dreamcatcher

Novice Member
Does anyone have a recommendation for a 10 metre hdmi lead , I running a 5 metre one but that was cutting out , and I was getting handshake ,also its not really an ideal length to my pj .

I have seen this one ,BlueRigger HDMI Cable 10.5 Meters - CL3 Rated for: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

Any thoughts on this or has anyone got a better one they can point my towards. cheers.

Hi,
I'm using this 10 metre cable from Amazon with my projector setup -
(KabelDirekt 10m Top Series High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet 1.4a / 2.0 supports Full HD / Ultra HD 3D ARC)
I found it works perfectly but had a few handshaking problems when using a splitter until I upgraded all the other HDMI cables to the same spec, now everything is working very well.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Note that just because a longer HDMI cable works with one set of components is no gurantee that it will work with another different combination of components. The standards for HDMI give enough scope for the power being allocated to the HDMI inerface that one device may not supply the exact same power to its interface as another. This is why HDMI org suggest not using HDMI cables any longer than 8m. If you are experiencong signal dropouts then I'd suggest you look at using cat5 or 6 rather than HDMI. The longer an HDMI cable is then the more unreliable it becomes.

By the way, there's no such thing as an HDMI version 1.4 cable. Version numbers only relate to the interface and the hardware and not the cables!
 

AntJone

Novice Member
Hello
I'm thinking of getting a 675 (Richer Sounds price dropping, perhaps because 677 on the way)

I'm most interested in Zone2, so I can use the same amp in the dining room
I've seen it written that the 675 cannot pass HDMI signal to Zone2, or can it run the same input to Main & Zone2.
However, if I ran (say) my Freeview box to HDMI1, and ran the RCA audio-out from it to one of the anaolgue inputs, then could I have this in Zone2, potentially at the same time as in the Main zone?

Thanks in advance - my first post and this thread has been very useful so far
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Most AV receivers with Zone2 capabilities cannot outputs S/PDIF or HDMI sourced aidio to the second zone. The second zone would be limited to analogue sources or audio accessed via the receiver's networking capabilities.

You'd need to select the two inputs seperately, but yes, you could use both outputs from the same source simultaneously. There may be some degree of audio sync mismatch though? The analogue audio could possibly reach the second zone before the digital audio is processed and output in the main zone for example.
 

AntJone

Novice Member
Thank you for the prompt, Mr Dante

Yes, I did wonder about lag - 50ms isn't a long time in your life, but it's a long time in audio. Phasing!!

May I ask a further, supplementary, more qualitative question?

What speakers should I get?
I would prefer to spend under £200 to keep total budget under £500 for local political reasons.
Richer sounds has:
  • Tannoy SFX5.1 - £170 - user reviews very positive
  • Boston Soundware XS SE - £200
But I suspect you'll say "Man up, do some overtime, and get the DX1 HCP for £100 more"

System will be used for (mp3) music about a third of the time

I thank you in advance

Tony
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
I'd suggest £200 to be way off the mark. The RXV675 will be better served with speaker packages costing £500 - 1,500. A 5.1 speaker package should ideally cost more than the receiver itself and not less. One rule of thumb uses the equation that the 5.1 package should cost at least twice as much as the receiver and preferably three times as much in order to get a well balanced setup. Probably not what you wanted to hear.

You may be interested in this:
Monitor Audio Vector AV Black 5.1 Speaker Package - Monitor Audio - AudioVisual Online - Home Cinema and Hifi Specialists

A bargain considering that the same package used to sell for over £700 and very good value for money when compared to similarly priced budget packages.
 

AntJone

Novice Member
I did see that, and glad it caught your eye too.

Would you recommend that (in a non legally-binding way) over the Wharfedale DX1 HCP?

That would bring me in at £600, only slightly over budget, and my missus is getting a cat against my wishes.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Would you recommend that (in a non legally-binding way) over the Wharfedale DX1 HCP?


Yes.

The sub isn't brilliant, but the package is still of a higher standard than you'd expect from packages that retail for £300. It uses the same drive units as used within the radius range which is often put forward as a high end lifestyle option. You can even upgrade the front three speakers to something from Monitor Audio's Radius range at some point in the future without losing the associated timbre match with the rears.

Large rooms may be too much for the included sub, but this is the only real drawback with the Vector package.

You may also want to get yourself the proprietary wall mounts for the Vector speakers:
Monitor Audio Speaker Wall Bracket For BX1 / Vector / Mass / Radius (Single) - Monitor Audio - AudioVisual Online - Home Cinema and Hifi Specialists

These are sold singularly and can be used with all the speakers including the centre speaker.
 

AntJone

Novice Member
That's very interesting

Thank you for your advice and time. The brackets look just the thing for beyond the sofa.
The 675 has the option for 2 subs, doesn't it? (7.2?) Would a second one (elsewhere in the room) help?

All I can offer in return is:
"I made a vegetarian chilli last night. I nicked his coat."
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
I'd avoid 2 subs unless the room is large? It can yield better bass, but it is a pain to setup and can lead to issues with bass boom if the room's acoustics don't suit two subs. A room can limit where you can place two subs in such a way that they work together correctly. It is okay if you've a dedicated space for home cinema, but cannot always be facilitated within a multifunction lounge or living room. It is sometimes better to just use a bigger sub which is easier to locate correctly as opposed to using two subs that need to be both located correctly.
 

AntJone

Novice Member
Excellent
Thank you very much for your advice - I have hugely enjoyed our chat
One woofer sounds fine.

One final question - is it still wise to keep cable lengths the same (phasing again) or does the amp sort that sort of thing out nowadays?

Best wishes
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Speaker cables would need to be inordinately different lengths in order for them to cause issues, but I tend to prefer to keep the left and right front cables the same length as one another and the rear speaker cables equal to one another. The centre doesn't need the same length of cable as used for the left and right speakers.

The receiver calculates the delay in relation to your distance from the speakers and doesn't take into account the cable length. The cable length would need to be exceedingly long in order for it to be causing any kind of an issue relating to the phase and or impedance.
 
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absolutely80s

Well-known Member
Afternoon all, newby here having just taken delivery of a brand spanking new 675 combined with the Tannoy 201 speaker set. My head feels dizzy with the array of possibilities the Yammy offers, and I'm looking forward to further playing with the settings.

One thing puzzles me, regarding the firmware update. I've tried to do it via the USB option (failed, error response was "Device Error"), and Apple TV (same response). Any clue what's going on there, because I have no idea.

Cheers
Jez
 

jotty

Active Member
I can't get my 675 to connect to my network recently, all cables connected via home plug to my Apple Extreme base station but all I get in the setup options are messages saying there is a problem.

Is there a way to completely reset network and start again on the amp, I have done the one suggested in the manual but it doesn't make any difference.

****ALL SORTED NOW BUT NOT SURE HOW!****
 
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dante01

Distinguished Member
KEF LS50 speakers probably deserve a higher end receiver. The RXV675 would power them, but not to their best ability.
 

absolutely80s

Well-known Member
re-posting in case it wasn't seen and someone knows the answer:

"One thing puzzles me, regarding the firmware update. I've tried to do it via the USB option (failed, error response was "Device Error"), and Apple TV (same response). Any clue what's going on there, because I have no idea."
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Maybe an issue with the USB flash drive you are using? Maybe try updating via a net connection as opposed to using a USB thumb drive?
 

absolutely80s

Well-known Member
Maybe an issue with the USB flash drive you are using? Maybe try updating via a net connection as opposed to using a USB thumb drive?

I tried ethernet as well as via Apple TV, both had the same Device Error response.
 

Teeps18

Standard Member
KEF LS50 speakers probably deserve a higher end receiver. The RXV675 would power them, but not to their best ability.

Thanks for the reply and appreciate the heads up. Which receiver would be more suited?
Also, it will be deployed in a small living room, so I won't be cranking up the volume.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
I'd suggest something like the Anthem MRX310 or an older MRX500 if you can get one for less, but I've a feeling you were looking at spending less money? The Marantz SR7008 would be another less costly option. There's also the Yamaha RXV1073.
 

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