Yamaha RX-V4A & V6A Owners Thread

dante01

Distinguished Member
Thanks for your settings I will give them a try.

But for my initial question, is that really intended to create an echo chamber with the movie and gaming profiles?
I mean, I get it for the music presets it sounds like the music halls.
But I have never been in an cinema with that much echo.

The echo is simply related to the delay. You can ordinarilly reduce it or even het rid of it by reducing the delay associated with the surrounds and this will result in the effect dimishing in assocuation with elements such as the dialogue.

It isn't technically incorrect though and is actually what you would hear in a room the size as the one you are attempting tocreate within the space you have your setup within. It is basically recreating the kind of effect you'd experience within a stadium or indeed a movie theatre.

Playing about with the room sizes and the delay settings can and will allow you to configure the programs more to your liking. I'd not suggest using the Music options and sitting pretending you are in a churd or visiting a beer leller though. Those settings are a bit OTT and gimmicky.
 
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MaSc

Member
It isn't technically incorrect though and is actually what you would hear in a room the size as the one you are attempting tocreate within the space you have your setup within. It is basically recreating the kind of effect you'd experience within a stadium or indeed a movie theatre.
Thanks for your patience and sorry If that's a dump question but the echo in a theater does not change depending the genre I'm watching. I'm not talking about the music DSPs since that usecase its totally clear.

I mean I don't have to use them and just stick to standard and straight which is fine but I'm really struggling with the intention of those profiles. I wan't to understand why they are adding those echo effects that seems to be wrong for me.

And won't be the movie and game settings be nearly equal if I change all of them to eliminate the echo.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Thanks for your patience and sorry If that's a dump question but the echo in a theater does not change depending the genre I'm watching. I'm not talking about the music DSPs since that usecase its totally clear.

I mean I don't have to use them and just stick to standard and straight which is fine but I'm really struggling with the intention of those profiles. I wan't to understand why they are adding those echo effects that seems to be wrong for me.

And won't be the movie and game settings be nearly equal if I change all of them to eliminate the echo.

The DSP Programs basically predate AV receivers and Yamaha were playing around with surround sound before Dolby come up with the idea of Pro Logic. Yamaha were commissioned by Dolby to help them create and develop what became Pro Logic. They even had presence/height speakers on their products before Atmos, DTS:X, Auro 3D, Audyssey DSX or even Dolby Pro Logic IIz were in existence.

Yamaha's DSP is Yamaha showing off and if they say a beer keller in Munich then that is how whatever it is you are playing would sound in said beer keller. They have a long reputation for sound processing that pre dates home theatre.


 
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jhalpinjr

Standard Member
A week into owning the v6 and I'm very happy, getting to know all the different modes, menus etc, for me the straight setting sounds the cleanest with no added extra effects, looking forward to connecting the series x to it next month :thumbsup:
Yes!! me too, but to be honest the point is moot if we don't have the HDMI 2.1 functionality integrated. Need that firmware update. Until such time, might as well go direct to TV an eArc to receiver for sound
 

TheHighFlyingBirds

Well-known Member
Has anybody experienced random sound dropouts with LG oled connected via ARC? This happens when I try to play any dolby audio content on devices connected to TV's hdmi inputs and OTA broadcasts with dolby audio.
This might be a LG issue. My b7 (connected to an older yamaha via arc) drops audio for a second every so often for OTA programs that I think are in dd; it doesn't affect built in apps like netflix. To stop it, you have to change a setting on the tv, thinks its change digital output from auto to pcm (its in the same menu area that you can enable hdmi simpilink). The only issue is, your tv only outputs stereo, thats applicable to OTA and built in apps.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
I've a C9 connected to an RXA1050 via ARC and I'm not experiencing any audio dropouts. The only time I have experienced such an issue was when I changed the HDMI cable between the TV and the AV receiver. After swopping the cable back to the one I was previously using the issue resolved itself. I therefore conclude that the issue was with the new cable as opposed to the TV and or the AV receiver.


Note that changing the digital audio output configuration from AUTO or PASS THROUGH to PCM isn't really a resolution. This will result in all multichannel sources being downmixed to just 2 channel PCM.
 
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MaSc

Member
This might be a LG issue. My b7 (connected to an older yamaha via arc) drops audio for a second every so often for OTA programs that I think are in dd;
I had that issue once after a firmware update of my CX not only on live TV but on PS4 sound too. But it was fixed after powering off all devices.

But I have the problem that on every 2nd or 3rd power on my AV get no signal from the TV and only shows "decoder off". I have to switch the sound-output in the CX menu to something different than ARC and then back to ARC to get the sound working (eARC is disabled in the CX).
 

Bombers56

Novice Member
A couple of novice questions about the amp.
When you switch inputs does the amp remember the settings for that input or does it apply the same setup for all inputs?
Can you set the volume level for each input separately so that when you switch inputs one is not louder than the other?
 

MaSc

Member
A couple of novice questions about the amp.
When you switch inputs does the amp remember the settings for that input or does it apply the same setup for all inputs?
Can you set the volume level for each input separately so that when you switch inputs one is not louder than the other?
Yes the settings are individual for each input.
You can’t set the loudness completely individual but you can set an offset between +6 and -6 db for each input.
 

Doubleken

Novice Member
Any way to change the Panel information from Remote?
I can only do from press SELECT/ENTER on the main panel.
 

MaSc

Member
Any way to change the Panel information from Remote?
I can only do from press SELECT/ENTER on the main panel.
Yes, you can change the function of the color buttons in the menu.
Go to Settings -> Function -> User Interface -> Remote Color Buttons and choose Display Control
 

river123

Active Member
Curious question has to what the the connections are for wired and usb Bluetooth headphones on these amps and wondering if it’s the same for the future RX-A8?
 

MaSc

Member
Did anyone with an LG CX and an Xbox connected to the TV (due to HDR banding when using the V6A) tried to enable eARC in the CX menu?
I got many issues as soon as I enabled eARC. Most of the time I have no sound at all and the Display changes between Dolby HD and Dolby Atmos/PCM without any sound. When I disable eARC it shows DD+ and I have sound reliably.
 
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Bernard6176

Novice Member
Did anyone with an LG CX and an Xbox connected to the TV (due to HDR banding when using the V6A) tried to enable eARC in the CX menu?
In my experience this is a flaw with the LG CX and not the receiver, so sorry to hijack the thread for a minute, but my experiences might of use to MaSc, so here they are...

Yes, I had issues with Dolby Atmos via eARC from my LG CX to my V6A. (I have since returned my V6A due to the banding issues, but I've also experienced the same problems on my other receiver, a Sony STR-DN1080.) The issue for me is that if I have the X-Box set to output Dobly Atmos the sound will initially work okay, but as soon as the sound stream stops (for example, I stop playing my current game) then all subsequent sound from the X-Box will either be cutting out intermittently (every second or so) or will drop altogether. Once this happens it doesn't matter if I change the X-Box sound settings to disable Atmos, all sound formats will exhibit the problem. The only resolution at this point is to turn my TV off for more than 5 minutes then turn it back on.

A few other things I've noticed with my experience of this. If I don't use Dolby Atmos, and just use LPCM 7.1 output from my X-Box without the Atmos encoding, the problem never arrises. It only arrises after I try to use Atmos. Also, I have the same problem with my Apple TV 4K which is also connected to my LG CX. If I play any audio content with Atmos, it plays fine until playback stops, then all audio from the Apple TV 4K fails (regardless of format) until I power down the TV for about 5 minutes. If I disable Atmos on the Apple TV the problem never arrises. Also interesting, if I turn off my receiver after the audio starts intermittently cutting out, the problem continues to happen even after the audio reverts to being output via the TV speakers. This last point is why I'm fairly confident that it is a problem with the TV and not either my V6A or Sony receivers.

I raised a support ticket with LG on this, but even after providing them with video footage of the problem and pushing them hard, all they were prepared to do was note that they cannot guarantee the compatibility of eARC with all devices and that their engineers would investigate further if they received a certain volume of similar reports of the problem.
 

Dunners

Active Member
Especial when playing games like Red Dead the modes for Action or RPG games are distorting.
For RDR2 I'd put it into 'Straight' mode.
It's a 4.0 game until you put it into first person view or have a cut scene... but ultimately story mode is a surround sound game, so there's no need to add to it.
 

akinstl

Novice Member
Sorry if I am posting this incorrectly, I have an issue I did not notice anyone else post about. I have the V6A and a Vizio M65-D0. I am using an NVIDIA Shield 2019 pro for streaming. When I use Netflix or Disney + with Dolby Vision content the screen tints very red. If I hit info on the TV it shows a “normal” signal rather than a Dolby Vision signal. I have found a work around, which is to change the input on the V6A and then change it back. It then looks normal and under the TV info “Dolby Vision” is displayed, so it seems like a handshake switching issue. Has anyone else had this issue and does anyone know of a fix without switching inputs or an update coming soon to fix this? Thanks for your assistance and I hope I posted this in the right place.
 

Brettster

Member
Hi all, My first post so please be gentle!.
I've just got the V6A this week as an upgrade to a Marantz NR1607 slimline.
I'm enjoying it but for one issue, How do you swap inputs when it's in standby? On my previous Marantz and Yamaha amps you just press the button for the input you want on the remote. I've managed to get it to auto switch over to a Nintendo Switch when that is turned on but most of my equipment does not have that feature and I have to turn on the amp, switch input and then put it in standby again.
I tend to only have time to play games late at night and use headphones.

Thanks for your time.
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
Hi all, My first post so please be gentle!.
I've just got the V6A this week as an upgrade to a Marantz NR1607 slimline.
I'm enjoying it but for one issue, How do you swap inputs when it's in standby? On my previous Marantz and Yamaha amps you just press the button for the input you want on the remote. I've managed to get it to auto switch over to a Nintendo Switch when that is turned on but most of my equipment does not have that feature and I have to turn on the amp, switch input and then put it in standby again.
I tend to only have time to play games late at night and use headphones.

Thanks for your time.

Given the fact that the ability to select sources via the remote while using STANDBY THROUGH was previously documented within the user manuals for Yamaha models predating the V6, I'd have to suggest that this ability has been dropped due to such references no longer being made in the V6's manual?


Previous reference to STANDBY THROUGH within an older Yamaha manual:
by default 2020-10-16 at 14.21.51.png



Current reference from the RXV6A's manual:
by default 2020-10-16 at 14.24.03.png
 
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whitehart

Well-known Member
Hi all, My first post so please be gentle!.
I've just got the V6A this week as an upgrade to a Marantz NR1607 slimline.
I'm enjoying it but for one issue, How do you swap inputs when it's in standby? On my previous Marantz and Yamaha amps you just press the button for the input you want on the remote. I've managed to get it to auto switch over to a Nintendo Switch when that is turned on but most of my equipment does not have that feature and I have to turn on the amp, switch input and then put it in standby again.
I tend to only have time to play games late at night and use headphones.

Thanks for your time.
the remote with this doesnt help as it only has up/down for the inputs. however im sure with my other yamaha remote that has the direct buttons for HDMI and i was switching it in standby - ill double check when im back home
 

dante01

Distinguished Member
As I've said, there's no disputing it was previously possible to change HDMI sources while the receiver was in standby with previous models.

the remote with this doesnt help as it only has up/down for the inputs. however im sure with my other yamaha remote that has the direct buttons for HDMI and i was switching it in standby - ill double check when im back home
What is it you are intending to test, the ability to use the older remote with its original AV receiver or using it to change the source while in standby with the RXV6?
 

whitehart

Well-known Member
As I've said, there's no disputing it was previously possible to change HDMI sources while the receiver was in standby with previous models.



What is it you are intending to test, the ability to use the older remote with its original AV receiver or using it to change the source while in standby with the RXV6?
Well the latter rather than the former wouldn't one think be a tad more useful no?

The older remote works fine and is a much better remote to be fair
 

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