Yamaha RX-A4A/A6A/A8A owners thread

Gene from audioholics Describes the a6a as a hot mess. Not good so far. Yamaha AVENTAGE 2021 AV Receivers Bulk Up on Power and 8K Features.
yep well it was a massive upgrade from my previous AVR then that he'll prob describe as a hot mess also - the a6a is the best AVR i've ever owned, the clarity is streets ahead of my marantz/denon and previous Yamaha's large pinch of salt need to be taken with these reviews, maybe my KEF R5's just work well with a "hot mess" lol
 
yep well it was a massive upgrade from my previous AVR then that he'll prob describe as a hot mess also - the a6a is the best AVR i've ever owned, the clarity is streets ahead of my marantz/denon and previous Yamaha's large pinch of salt need to be taken with these reviews
I always think you have to trust your own ears when buying a product so long as it has the features you require. Yamaha at every level are able to bring all of their expertise to the market, lest face it the engineers are working for a company who produces some of the Worlds best musical instruments which should mean someone who signs them off has to have a respectable ear whilst balancing that with the financial side. Of course this will never mean that everyone has to like them to which is why reviews of this nature will always pop up. Who is wrong, I'd say no one as audio is such a subjective thing and so long as the listener enjoys what they have purchased, do you think they'll really cares. I've doubt anyone is really going to loose any sleep unless every more reviews comes back the same way which I very much doubt it
 
Does the review include any graphs?

We all know how important graphs are to what we hear!



:)
 
yep well it was a massive upgrade from my previous AVR then that he'll prob describe as a hot mess also - the a6a is the best AVR i've ever owned, the clarity is streets ahead of my marantz/denon and previous Yamaha's large pinch of salt need to be taken with these reviews, maybe my KEF R5's just work well with a "hot mess" lol
My Yamaha RX-V6A sounds way better than Denon and Marantz. And I agree. Some of the things on graphs only dogs can hear an luckly they do not understand a thing.
 
yep well it was a massive upgrade from my previous AVR then that he'll prob describe as a hot mess also - the a6a is the best AVR i've ever owned, the clarity is streets ahead of my marantz/denon and previous Yamaha's large pinch of salt need to be taken with these reviews, maybe my KEF R5's just work well with a "hot mess" lol
Keeping my a8 as well, I know I can only compare it to my old sony1080, but the way in which the clarity and sound is conveyed and steered is definitely something I'm liking, and this is with my concept 20's, so when I finally get my buchardt s400mk2's I'm expecting it to sing like tweety pie.
 
I always think you have to trust your own ears when buying a product so long as it has the features you require. Yamaha at every level are able to bring all of their expertise to the market, lest face it the engineers are working for a company who produces some of the Worlds best musical instruments which should mean someone who signs them off has to have a respectable ear whilst balancing that with the financial side. Of course this will never mean that everyone has to like them to which is why reviews of this nature will always pop up. Who is wrong, I'd say no one as audio is such a subjective thing and so long as the listener enjoys what they have purchased, do you think they'll really cares. I've doubt anyone is really going to loose any sleep unless every more reviews comes back the same way which I very much doubt it
Are you able to advise on delivery of the A4A please?

I keep checking your site, among others. It would appear the A6A and A8A can be picked up most places now, just waiting for the A4A to put in an appearance.
 
Have Richersounds had any A8A deliveries yet?
They told me dec/Jan as they've not even negotiated with yamaha on that model yet so I went to sevenoaks and got one.
 
I have the A4A. I don't seem to be able to get the current Apple TV 4K to run Dolby Vision through it. Is that to be expected and I have to wait for this firmware update? I'm not clear on why that would be, it seems like the A4A should handle 4K60. Is the Apple TV trying to do HDR10+? I can run it straight to TV and use ARC for now.
 
I have the A4A. I don't seem to be able to get the current Apple TV 4K to run Dolby Vision through it. Is that to be expected and I have to wait for this firmware update? I'm not clear on why that would be, it seems like the A4A should handle 4K60. Is the Apple TV trying to do HDR10+? I can run it straight to TV and use ARC for now.

On my a6a (should be the same as a4a) it works fine. I currently have 4K DV 4.2.2. On a6 video processing/video mode set to Direct. The AVR correctly reports the current settings in on-screen information.
 
If you use the MusicCast app, select the receiver and the input (TV in this case) it shows if it is just PCM or Dolby Atmos/PCM, etc.
Not using the MusicCast if just watching tv though amp it doesn’t show anything about if it’s in pcm Or Dolby Atmos etc but the old amp would show which speakers were in use when watching normally tv
 
Alter the display mode the AV receiver's front panel display is set to so the it is set to the AUDIO DECODER option. This will inficate both the audio format and what upmixer moder you are applyinh if applying one. You can do this as follows:

by default 2021-12-18 at 17.17.59.png
 
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What I’m trying to say very simply is on my old amp you could see all the speakers displayed on the front screen it would tell you if you were stereo Dolby Atmos surround sound or whatever but on the A6A it shows nothing to tell you at a Glance it was so easy to see
 
Note that you can also dessignate the coloured buttons on the remote to access the various display options without having to use the control dial on the receiver.

Go to
“System” > “Remote Key” > “Color Key” and set it to DISPLAY CONTROL

This assigns the functions of Display Control to each key as follows:
RED: Dimmer- (darkens the front display and indicators)
GREEN: Dimmer+ (brightens the front display and indicators)
YELLOW: Display item - (displays the previous information on the front display)
BLUE: Display item + (displays the next information on the front display)
 
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What I’m trying to say very simply is on my old amp you could see all the speakers displayed on the front screen it would tell you if you were stereo Dolby Atmos surround sound or whatever but on the A6A it shows nothing to tell you at a Glance it was so easy to see

From the manual:


On page 317 look for Display Control which does:

"Assigns the functions of Display Control to each key. RED: Dimmer- (darkens the front display and indicators) GREEN: Dimmer+ (brightens the front display and indicators) YELLOW: Display item - (displays the previous information on the front display"

Now with the color buttons you can change what is being deplay on the fron panel, including showing which speakers are currently in use and what signal is being received.
 
Anyone with an A6A have issues with HDMI out 1? I'm on my second unit with the same exact issues on both. HDMI out 2 works fine with no problems but when I use out 1 I get no display at all not even the menu's. I'm using a LG OLED77CX for the display and I have tested the HDMI cable with an xbox series X and all features work perfectly connected directly to the display. I tried hooking a small monitor up to out 1 and it worked fine but I don't think this is a very good test since it doesn't have any of the advanced features the tv does. I reached out to yamaha support but they didnt even know the difference between a high speed hdmi cable and an ultra high speed hdmi cable.
 
Anyone with an A6A have issues with HDMI out 1? I'm on my second unit with the same exact issues on both. HDMI out 2 works fine with no problems but when I use out 1 I get no display at all not even the menu's. I'm using a LG OLED77CX for the display and I have tested the HDMI cable with an xbox series X and all features work perfectly connected directly to the display. I tried hooking a small monitor up to out 1 and it worked fine but I don't think this is a very good test since it doesn't have any of the advanced features the tv does. I reached out to yamaha support but they didnt even know the difference between a high speed hdmi cable and an ultra high speed hdmi cable.
Do you have the same HDMI Video Mode selected for HDMI 1, as is set with HDMI 2?
 
but they didnt even know the difference between a high speed hdmi cable and an ultra high speed hdmi cable.


Did you actually try using a different cable? Maybe stick to using a conventional high speed cable until you actually need an ultra 48Gbps cable? It could be the cable that is causing the issue?

What happens if you turn HDMI control off either onboard the TV or on the AV receiver?

Are you sure that the AV receiver is set to HDMI 1 and that the HDMI 1 output is turned on?

Also ensure that the AV receiver hasn't set itself to its ARC source.

Have you tried using the HDMI through setting to test whether or not the AV receiover can passthrough HDMI sources while in standby?

The fact you can get a pictiure using another display suggests that there may be an HDMI conflict with the TV you are attempting to use. It would be helpful if you could reveal what that TV is?

THe 2 outputs are basically mirrored apart from the HDMI 1 output being HDMI CEC and wAR/ARC enabled. THe fact that you get video via the second output sort of suggests that ARC and or HDMI CEC are in some way at play?
 
Do you have the same HDMI Video Mode selected for HDMI 1, as is set with HDMI 2?


You cannot set modes indepently for each of the outputs. THey are basically mirrored aoart from HDMI 1 having HDMI CEC and ARC.

It could be that the AV receiver itself is set to HDMI zone 2 which would result in the main zone not being in operation and as such the main room output not outputting anything? THis wouldn't effect the second output though and would only explain the behaviour if using the dedicated second HDMI zone output to connect the second display to.
 
ermmm.

Are you sure that you aren't mistakly using the second zone HDMI output as the main output? The second zone output is the one above the power inlet and located next to the RJ45 network port while the 2 mirrored conventional outputs are on the opposite side of the receiver.

If you were to try use the second zone output then you'd not get anything without engaging zone 2 and even then you'd stioll not gewt the AV receiver's menus and on=screen graphics via that output.
 
Did you actually try using a different cable? Maybe stick to using a conventional high speed cable until you actually need an ultra 48Gbps cable? It could be the cable that is causing the issue?

What happens if you turn HDMI control off either onboard the TV or on the AV receiver?

Are you sure that the AV receiver is set to HDMI 1 and that the HDMI 1 output is turned on?

Also ensure that the AV receiver hasn't set itself to its ARC source.

Have you tried using the HDMI through setting to test whether or not the AV receiover can passthrough HDMI sources while in standby?

The fact you can get a pictiure using another display suggests that there may be an HDMI conflict with the TV you are attempting to use. It would be helpful if you could reveal what that TV is?

THe 2 outputs are basically mirrored apart from the HDMI 1 output being HDMI CEC and wAR/ARC enabled. THe fact that you get video via the second output sort of suggests that ARC and or HDMI CEC are in some way at play?
LOL you sound like the Yamaha guy. Just use your 2k reciever as old technology and hope that in the future it might be fixed with firmware.

All features working from xbox to tv suggests the hdmi cable is working at proper bandwidth and is not having an issue with hdcp. I would say if hdmi out 1 can only handle an 18gbps hdmi cable on these things that doesnt look good for the future of this device.

I have tried it with CEC both on and off on both ends. I've tried it only set to hdmi 1 out and with both on and it makes no difference.

Source is irrelevant since I cant even get the options menu to display. Though at one point I did have the xbox come up at a 480p resolution. I could not duplicate that after a reboot though.

Its set to through by default those I did try setting different resolutions while I had a second screen set up just to see if anything was display but I still got nothing.

I did say what the TV is its a LG OLED77CX

I had the same thought about it being an eARC issue and its failing the handshake because of it.
 
Oh, and maybe simply try pressing the HDMI output key on the top right of the remote to ensure the HDMI 1 output is actually engaged. THe key circles through the available options which include turning all outputs on or off and well as turning each HDMI output off independently.
 

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