WORLDWIDE CRT PROJECTOR SHOOTOUT

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Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I'm interested too. There will be more mods later, and we agreed on a sum for a trade in modded LVPS. The HVPS mods I probably could do myself with instructions.

I taped the pc over a annoying little blinking thing and just by doing that room became notibly darker. Heavy fabric for curtains will do the last thing on PQ. Cheap too and wonder why I still haven't. It's just like $150 for some blacked out curtains.

Do you have a meter to measure light output.?

Would be interesting to see how much you can crank out of your new mods.. The MP screenshots indicates he is running a very low output looking at the camera settings.. Ill guess ill be able to shoot 12-15 fl on my 110" screen with both LUG and LCP tubes, around x2 more than the MP mods usually do. So would be interesting to see if he have focused on calibration capabilities and light output for the first time.
 

Wolfmann

Active Member
Do you have a meter to measure light output.?

Would be interesting to see how much you can crank out of your new mods.. The MP screenshots indicates he is running a very low output looking at the camera settings.. Ill guess ill be able to shoot 12-15 fl on my 110" screen with both LUG and LCP tubes, around x2 more than the MP mods usually do. So would be interesting to see if he have focused on calibration capabilities and light output for the first time.

I think we all know that light output was the culprit last time but the images he shown lately looks alright to me. The black Bruce Willis shows an image that is very nice.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I think we all know that light output was the culprit last time but the images he shown lately looks alright to me. The black Bruce Willis shows an image that is very nice.
You need to look at the exif data on the pictures to get a idea. To give you a idea he is shooting around f6,3 4-6sec at iso 100, at f6,3 ill guess my average exposure time is around 1,5-2sec.. So it easy to make a dim image look bright with screenshots, and thats by longer exposure time.. And thats what he has been douing as far as i can tell. So you will be the one to test and let us know how that works out on the latest..

Here is the data and 2 comparison shots.

IMG_22012017_233732.png
MP mods.jpg
IMGP1126 - Kopi.JPG
 
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Wolfmann

Active Member
You need to look at the exif data on the pictures to get a idea. To give you a idea he is shooting around f6,3 5-6sec at iso 100, at f6,3 ill guess my average exposure time is around 1,5-2sec.. So it easy to make a dim image look bright with screenshots, and thats by longer exposure time.. And thats what he has been douing as far as i can tell. So you will be the one to test and let us know how that works out on the latest..

That's big shoes to fill but I'll do my best. I hope he jumps in though and give inputs of what's been done to them if I post. But I'm quite sure the image will be alright when it comes to brightness.
 

Wolfmann

Active Member
My bloody remote wont properly I remember so I must sort that out. I need to go near to get response. There is something wrong with it. God knows where, but will at least try another CLM first.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
Sounds like we will both be ready about the same time.. As im going to hang my Marquee, and get the room under controle, for now i have been shooting in a all white room and street light entering at night.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
My bloody remote wont properly I remember so I must sort that out. I need to go near to get response. There is something wrong with it. God knows where, but will at least try another CLM first.
New batteries.? no matter what try change them again.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I will try other sort of batteries but rechargeable as is. I should buy another remote as well.
If its not batteries, its most likely the reciver on the projector.. I still never seen a remote fail.

Rechargable batteries are normaly 1,2v where normal batteries are 1,5v.. so give that a shot first.
 

Wolfmann

Active Member
I looked at my gear again, with his unit, and there's nothing there that indicates low brightness to me. I think this will be a breeze setting it up and enjoy the image with the level of brightness I'm used to, with contrast around 74.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I looked at my gear again, with his unit, and there's nothing there that indicates low brightness to me. I think this will be a breeze setting it up and enjoy the image with the level of brightness I'm used to, with contrast around 74.
The contrast nr is not usefull for any kind of reference, as it changes with the gain.. So i hope you have a meter and can measure how much light those boards will push before blooming.

I can try pop in standard boards again and defocus them quite some to make it look lower resolution, and go with a agressive blue push to simulate Mikes setup, and then copy his camera settings and see what light output that gives me, ill bet that will come quite close to show it right.

The reason why we are curious is that the MP pics seems extremely soft, and indivcate problems holding together the beam, wich has been the same problems in the past.

Last time i calibrated my projector hangin in MPs basement with his mods in it it was around 5-6fl max before blooming.. I bought 6 of those 9518 Marquee, and have the rest of them here.

Im concidering going there picking up the last one this spring, i see i bought these projectors more than 1½ year ago back in 2015.. Thats a long time to borow out something like that.
 

Wolfmann

Active Member
The contrast nr is not usefull for any kind of reference, as it changes with the gain.. So i hope you have a meter and can measure how much light those boards will push before blooming.

I can try pop in standard boards again and defocus them quite some to make it look lower resolution, and go with a agressive blue push to simulate Mikes setup, and then copy his camera settings and see what light output that gives me, ill bet that will come quite close to show it right.

The reason why we are curious is that the MP pics seems extremely soft, and indivcate problems holding together the beam, wich has been the same problems in the past.

Last time i calibrated my projector hangin in MPs basement with his mods in it it was around 5-6fl max before blooming.. I bought 6 of those 9518 Marquee, and have the rest of them here.

Im concidering going there picking up the last one this spring, i see i bought these projectors more than 1½ year ago back in 2015.. Thats a long time to borow out something like that.


I figured the numbers didn't mean much but with the boards I have I often end up with contrast at around 74. Not a dim image but a nice setting that one can live with. The softness you say, could very well be he didn't go all the way setting this up. Today's images looks good too but of course those are other boards. I figure my boards will look pretty much the same though.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I figured the numbers didn't mean much but with the boards I have I often end up with contrast at around 74. Not a dim image but a nice setting that one can live with. The softness you say, could very well be he didn't go all the way setting this up. Today's images looks good too but of course those are other boards. I figure my boards will look pretty much the same though.

Not going all the way setting this up means having no idea how it performs in every aspect of image quality.. So to me thats the wrong way around.. Selling mods, claiming improvements, i think its important to understand whats going on and why, and if you dont do the most basic setup parameters, how will you be able to evaluate and understand the more complex ones.

Thats why im spending a lot of time actually setting things up, to look at the final results, calibrated. Decent magnetic setup and so on.. None of my last 2 setups were perfect, but somehow i still got 20fl calibrated on a 90" neutral gain screen, and that might been luck at the time, but now ill make sure i can reproduce it, knowing why it happened, and what it takes.

Ill try snap a few tube pics and show you how the low level tube face can look like, something MP never had luck getting to work.. with a 0-255 setting on the moome card.

Im very exited to see the final editions of Gjakys mods.. I ordered the new AD834 based edition, so i should have both to see wich one i prefer.
 

Wolfmann

Active Member
Not going all the way setting this up means having no idea how it performs in every aspect of image quality.. So to me thats the wrong way around.. Selling mods, claiming improvements, i think its important to understand whats going on and why, and if you dont do the most basic setup parameters, how will you be able to evaluate and understand the more complex ones.

Thats why im spending a lot of time actually setting things up, to look at the final results, calibrated. Decent magnetic setup and so on.. None of my last 2 setups were perfect, but somehow i still got 20fl calibrated on a 90" neutral gain screen, and that might been luck at the time, but now ill make sure i can reproduce it, knowing why it happened, and what it takes.

Ill try snap a few tube pics and show you how the low level tube face can look like, something MP never had luck getting to work.. with a 0-255 setting on the moome card.

Im very exited to see the final editions of Gjakys mods.. I ordered the new AD834 based edition, so i should have both to see wich one i prefer.

I knew you would back up the AD834 thing, that's great, we need to push on and try other things too. More competition is welcome and just more candy for us buyers! I will do myself a favour and make a nice setup so we can see. It all boils down to make a dot round. I plan on doing it, for the first time, the Florida way of doing it. Not mess around with FY though, and not finding the sweet-spot, I'm good with all the way forward for now, but some other things mentioned also I never tried before. It will be a treat to try it out.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I dont think the 03vim with the AD834 will ever be able to perform to my desire, but the way Gjaky is implementing it, beeing able to remove the opamp on the neckboard, there is hope.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I think that there is a new chapter with all the mods going on.. CRT is still king!

I like CRT.. But you can not really put CRT as the king.. If you look at standard CRT projectors, and pretty much anything MP have done its still a very dim low res image, wich is not what people want these days.. So to compete we need to make it work with todays standard.. and for that we need some light output, and resolution power.. Im of the opinion that it has to be 10fl+ to produce some decent dynamic in the image.. And 14-16fl is even better.. I had the standard Marquee calibrated to 10fl here, think it would be possible to drive it to around 12fl.. Now thats on a 90" screen, i would not want that one on a 110" screen, and considering the latest MP mods are even lower resolution and light output than a standard Marquee, i will think its best for very small screens.. below 90"
You will be surprised how often mods make it perform worse..
 
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Darko

Well-known Member
I love this thread, I read it every day it amazes me how you all are so invested in this tech and makes me want to join you, projectors now are pretty much ready to go out of the box but these things seem like a real labour of love

Darko
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
I love this thread, I read it every day it amazes me how you all are so invested in this tech and makes me want to join you, projectors now are pretty much ready to go out of the box but these things seem like a real labour of love

Darko

It all started for me some years back when i bought at the time the projector i expected to be the one.. JVC X7.. Well it was not all as perfect as the colored adverticing had made me think it was.. So a friend of mine asked if i had concidered CRT.. I had seen a Barco 808 at that time, and had not developed any desire for that image at all.. But the JVC was driving me nuts.. And one day there was a VIDIKRON VISION ONE for sale not to far away. I picked it up, and after the first few hours fumbeling around trying to get a image that looked like a image i got hooked.. It had something, and a lot of flaws.. But that something is always there, and with time the flaws has been eliminated 1 by 1.. Its been a long jurney.. Spend piles of money investing in modifications that mostly never worked, or just solved one problem and created a new.. But in between there was hints of bits and pieces of things that was truly to desire.. and now many years later ill say that the pieces has started to form a pattern.. And i dont fumble around so much anymore.. And have a better understanding what to do or buy, or what not to do and not to buy.

It has left a bit of a space issue, with around 20 CRT projectors in the house, and some stored at a friends place in USA.. A friend that came with the hobby, and there has come a few of those along the way as a extra bonus.

Now for the first time im preparing to hang my own CRT in a room build for the purpose of housing the CRT projector..
 

greg9518lc

Active Member
I am very excited for Kurt to finally have a dedicated room and to move up to 110" screen. Look forward to your measurements and future screenshots. After all this is what this thread is about Can't wait to be up and running again to join the fun.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
Just went into daydream mode.. It would be possible to do a 11,6 foot wide screen.. Now ill need to do the math.. but ill think i can do a 110" 16:9 and a 11,6 foot wide scope running a blend, having 3 projectors hanging.. Now how cool would that be lol. Ill bet you that would be a pretty bright scope screen.
 

Stridsvognen

Well-known Member
Now trying to convince the wife that i also need the room behind the screen.. Lets see how that goes.. Would not be bad to move all the palayers amps and stuff to the other side of the wall..
 

greg9518lc

Active Member
Now trying to convince the wife that i also need the room behind the screen.. Lets see how that goes.. Would not be bad to move all the palayers amps and stuff to the other side of the wall..
You would be smart to do that as you can setup a work bench and put all you stuff in that space if big enough. What size room is it.

Also it's much better not to see any of the equipment and eliminate reflections for audio so win win:thumbsup:
 
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