Wiring A Hive Receiver

mcoliver88

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Hello All,

Unfortunately my Nest Thermostat broke, so when an engineer came out, he did something (I think he added the red loop cable in) to by past the nest so my heating would work. However I have now opted to change from Nest to Hive. I am wiring up the hive receiver, using the guide which is a dual channel system as I have a hot water tank. I have used the nest guide along side the hive and have also used the label on my junction box to get the wiring to match up. However on the hive guide, it states I need to plug in the cable into 2, to turn the heating off. However looking at my junction box there is nothing I can see that is obvious for Heating Off.

however after moving the cables over from the nest box to the hive receiver I am left with two cables, a black one which I think went to the thermostat down stairs and a white cable. Should the white cable be going into connection 2 on the hive?

I've attached some photos hoping it helps someone answer my question.
I will be forever grateful for those who can help.
thanks

7BF2DEFC-48FE-428B-AB8F-D62222285D57.jpeg
FB9C30DF-6D0D-408A-B8DD-AAA94950DDD3.jpeg
image.jpg
E0F9EBBC-8F5C-4DE9-B83F-9B128AE478BC.jpeg
 
Maybe ask in the Boiler/CH thread on page 2?
 
So in you top diagram L & N are 240v live. Pins 1 & 3 are a relay switch.
 
There's not normally a Heating Off command, but a Heating On - and possibly a Hot Water Off, depending upon your valve types.

Do you have a 3 way valve, or 2 2 way valves? That will affect how you need to wire up the programmer.

Central heating wiring is relatively simple once you boil it down. Your hot water will have a timer - via the Hive controller, and a cylinder thermostat. Both need to be "active" - circuit closed to fire up the boiler and to move the valve to the correct position. The central heating is similar in that the timer and room thermostat need to be active for the heating to fire up. The only complication is the 3 way valve if fitted, which you need to ensure is diverting correctly.

If you look at that box, it's basically just linking the various thermostats and valves together in the right order to provide the go-no go signal to the boiler and to set the valves in the right position.
 
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There's not normally a Heating Off command, but a Heating On - and possibly a Hot Water Off, depending upon your valve types.

Do you have a 3 way valve, or 2 2 way valves? That will affect how you need to wire up the programmer.

Central heating wiring is relatively simple once you boil it down. Your hot water will have a timer - via the Hive controller, and a cylinder thermostat. Both need to be "active" - circuit closed to fire up the boiler and to move the valve to the correct position. The central heating is similar in that the timer and room thermostat need to be active for the heating to fire up. The only complication is the 3 way valve if fitted, which you need to ensure is diverting correctly.

If you look at that box, it's basically just linking the various thermostats and valves together in the right order to provide the go-no go signal to the boiler and to set the valves in the right position.
Thanks for your reply.

It’s a 3 way valve. I thought it would be really relatively simple, but I also fail to see an earth cable too.
 
Thanks for your reply.

It’s a 3 way valve. I thought it would be really relatively simple, but I also fail to see an earth cable too.
There's not normally a requirement for an earth. There will be an L (live) connection, a neutral - normally to a separate connection point within the cable termination box that commons all the neutrals, and then just the Heating On and Hot Water On. Nothing else should be changed.

I think all the engineer did was to bypass the Hive box and connect your heating control to the live, so that it stayed on. It looks like you have the cabling to the thermostat - T1 & T2, which can be disconnected once you have fitted the new system, as the thermostat will be wireless.

So I think that:
N: Blue wire to Neutral connection
L: Connection point 11
1: Connection point 8
2: Not connected
3: Connection point 10
4: Connection point 9

Do not touch or remove any other wires in the connection box.

Some more info here:

Disclaimer: I successfully fitted my own Hive programmer to my own similar system. Without being there and breaking out the multimeter to double check connections, I can only advise based upon the photos supplied!
 
There's not normally a requirement for an earth. There will be an L (live) connection, a neutral - normally to a separate connection point within the cable termination box that commons all the neutrals, and then just the Heating On and Hot Water On. Nothing else should be changed.

I think all the engineer did was to bypass the Hive box and connect your heating control to the live, so that it stayed on. It looks like you have the cabling to the thermostat - T1 & T2, which can be disconnected once you have fitted the new system, as the thermostat will be wireless.

So I think that:
N: Blue wire to Neutral connection
L: Connection point 11
1: Connection point 8
2: Not connected
3: Connection point 10
4: Connection point 9

Do not touch or remove any other wires in the connection box.

Some more info here:

Disclaimer: I successfully fitted my own Hive programmer to my own similar system. Without being there and breaking out the multimeter to double check connections, I can only advise based upon the photos supplied!
Thanks for the reply. Sorry I’m converting nest over to hive, so he did bypass the best heating control. Okay makes sense about the earth.

However I did notice on the nest that the red cable went into the earth port on the nest, but looking at the junction box, that links to the grey cable which I have plugged into pin 1 on the hive.
 
Thanks for the reply. Sorry I’m converting nest over to hive, so he did bypass the best heating control. Okay makes sense about the earth.

However I did notice on the nest that the red cable went into the earth port on the nest, but looking at the junction box, that links to the grey cable which I have plugged into pin 1 on the hive.
Red should never be used as an earth.

I think you are looking at the room thermostat wires, and the photo makes it look like one was joined to the earth terminal?
 
Red should never be used as an earth.

I think you are looking at the room thermostat wires, and the photo makes it look like one was joined to the earth terminal?
Yes that’s correct, which was next to the black one which went to T1. But looking at the red it connects to 9, which then loops back onto 8.

Your advice on what should connect to what matches up to what I have done, but just have the white cable left which connects to the COMM(position 2) on the junction box and then there is a loop in there that connects to 4, which is a brown and white cable which on the junction box says HTG.
 
Did you have a wired thermostat into your old system? If so, it would be connected with red and black wires to T1 and T2. These should not be needed with your new system.

The white wire is your heating ON I think, as it loops through the thermostat. As I said further back up the thread, the boiler demand should only switch to ON if all conditions are met - EG timer says provide heat and thermostat is below desired room temp. They are basically wired together in series, so both must be "active" for the boiler to receive the start signal.

In other words, the white wire is the Heating On wire to connect to your new Hive system.

I am not convinced this was wired up correctly in the first place - which may be why your control unit packed up!
 
Yes the thermostat was wired in the old system. That could make sense why the red cable was plugged into earth, maybe the electrician I used wanted to put the cable somewhere and get it out of the way. Not that was the right way to do it.

So in that case should I remove the red cable from pin 4, replace it with white and tape off the black and red?
 
Yes the thermostat was wired in the old system. That could make sense why the red cable was plugged into earth, maybe the electrician I used wanted to put the cable somewhere and get it out of the way. Not that was the right way to do it.

So in that case should I remove the red cable from pin 4, replace it with white and tape off the black and red?
Honestly, I don't know, as I have never seen a thermostat wired between earth and T1! The stat cables should only run directly to the thermostat and not the control box, unless they were simply looped through there on their way to the thermostat. It looks like they have been wired into the boiler demand connection, which makes no sense at all.
 
Well fortunately I found out my next door neighbour is a retired electrician, so he came and looked at it.

The white went into pin 4, pin 2 we left empty and then taped off the red and black cables. Won’t know if this is correct until tomorrow as the hive system I purchased was for a combi boiler not for a dual system. The new one comes tomorrow so we will see if this is correct.

Thanks for your help it has been much appreciated.
 
Just thought I will drop an update as the correct hive arrived today for my heating system.

Had it all wired up as stated. Having removed the red cable and swapping it with the white.

Put the receiver on, tightened the screws, flicked the isolation switch back to on and pressed the heating button and the heating came straight on. Works perfectly.

I am still so baffled to why the red cable which linked back to hot water on was put into the earth slot on the nest.

@noiseboy72 thank you for all your help, you saved me having to call out an electrician. Even though I called my neighbour over, that was mainly due to the fact a cable came disconnected from the junction box when i pulled the cables too hard.
 
Glad it worked out for you. Boiler wiring does seem to be widely misunderstood - even by some regular sparks. Trying to delve into someone else's wiring can be a nightmare, so glad you got it sorted.
 

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