Width of timber for plasterboard (mounting TV)

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by markgodley, Jun 10, 2015.

  1. markgodley

    markgodley
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    I'm looking to mount my TV to the wall this weekend (in my front room) and having a knock on the wall parts of it seem hallow, which would likely indicate that the plasterboard is mounted a wooden timber support behind it (most likely has a proper name).

    I'm looking to mount 2 of the bolts to this wooden frame and the rest to the plaster board.

    However, i need to know how wide the wooden timber is likely to be behind it (i want to try and place it into the center of this).

    My plan is to locate the studs on the plasterboard using a strong magnet. I assume there will be 2 studs for each end of the plasterboard's that connect to it.
     
  2. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Actually have i just answered my own question?
    I guess i should locate the 2 studs from each of the boards that connect to it - then mount in the middle of these to find the center.
     
  3. nacmacfeegle

    nacmacfeegle
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    I've seen plasterboard on studs anything from 50mm up. Can you make a small hole in the board and push a rod, nail, pencil etc in to see what depth of partition you have? Likely around 68mm or more.

    Personally I wouldn't wouldnt a TV on plasterboard fixings, but I have no idea what size weight yours is, and other have done exactly this successfully.
     
  4. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Sorry i was actually referring to the width of the wooden support (where the two boards connect to it) as i have to make a 13mm hole into it.

    Weight of the tv is 14kg, but i'll be using snap toggles to mount the TV bracket
     
  5. nacmacfeegle

    nacmacfeegle
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    Ah, width, not depth.
    Gotcha.:smashin:
    Probably around 38mm upwards.
     
  6. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Awesome thank you.

    Final question. How will these timber sections be attached to the wall. I'm actually thinking i may not be able to mount to the timber with snap toggle as the timber will likely be mounted to the wall (not enough room for the snap toggle to open fully behind it i need 45mm clearance at least)?
     
  7. jonna

    jonna
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    image.jpg You could screw a 3/4 inch plywood sheet (slightly larger than your wall mount) into the wooden stud work and then screw your TV wall mount into the plywood.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
  8. markgodley

    markgodley
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    I don't see this method being stronger than snapp toggles alone? Snapp toggles would be much stronger than screws into wood?

    The only issues with snap toggles would be if the plasterboard was to get wet, although if that did ever happen i'd likely have bigger issues lol.
     
  9. Si01327

    Si01327
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    If its a solid wall that the timber frame is mounted on then consider using these:

    Rigifix - Fixings : Precision Audio Cables and Interconnects, Multiregion, Multizone Blu Ray Players and Professional Hifi Accessories, UK High Quality Audio Cables Shop

    You just drill a hole though the plasterboard and continue into the wall behind, insert the nylon anchor which bridges the gap, then insert and tighten up the steel rod which locks it all into place. Your TV mount then just screws into the head of the steel rod for a rock-solid fix.

    Apologies if I've misunderstood your wall description - if it's a true stud (partition) wall then these will be no good. However if it's a timber frame fixed to the wall with the plasterboard screwed to that then these should be fine, plus you don't need to worry about fixing directly into the timber studs.

    Si
     
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  10. jonna

    jonna
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    Well if it was my TV , I know which method I would choose :).
     
  11. markgodley

    markgodley
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    I'll have another tap around tonight to confirm it isn't dot and dab. Although i assume this would work regardless its dot and dab or timber frame.
    Not sure i fully understand how the ones you linked work tho, as in how is it strong when there is a grap between the plasterboard and wall behind.

    Are there any good solid timber based screws (coach bolts ok?) that i could use instead for some of the mounts and the rest using the snap toggles.
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
  12. Si01327

    Si01327
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  13. markgodley

    markgodley
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  14. Si01327

    Si01327
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    Usually pretty quickly - would definitely order before 3pm today though as that's the cut-off time for them to despatch any orders same day. If you want to double-check either e-mail them or give them a bell - Contact Us : Precision Audio Cables and Interconnects, Multiregion, Multizone Blu Ray Players and Professional Hifi Accessories, UK High Quality Audio Cables Shop

    With regards to M6 or M8, probably M6 going by the weight of your TV (14kg) but up to you. May be decided by the size of the mounting holes in the bracket though. Also, check you've got a suitable sized masonry drill bit as well - 12mm for the M6 or 14mm for the M8. If not they do the packs with drill bits included.
     
  15. baker

    baker
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    Is the wall an internal wall (Stud wall), or is it external?

    In my house (built 2006), our TV is mounted on an external wall, which was Plasterboard attached with Dot and Dab to the breeze block wall.

    I used 2 x M6 rigifix to mount a 55" LED.

    The rigifix fixing went right into the breeze block wall, they are an awesome bit of kit. I actually have another TV to mount in our extension and have bought the rigifix fixings again.
     
  16. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Just ordered some M8 ones.

    I'll do some before and after pics, along with my thoughts on the Rigifix bolts.
     
  17. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Just having a knock around my wall where the TV will go and it's defiantly a timber frame.

    In the gap between the plasterboard and breeze block is there anything ie insulation?

    I'm wanting to hide my cables behind it if there's enough room?
     
  18. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    Is this an internal or external wall?
     
  19. koeman

    koeman
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    I love rigifix, used them for all my tvs and now appear to be the go to guy from friends and family. I've never felt as strong of a fixings. You can literally hang off them.
     
  20. markgodley

    markgodley
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    It's an internal wall in my living room (built in 2000)
     
  21. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    Probably no insulation then, the block work will be doing that. But are you sure there is blockwork behind the wooden frame? I would cut a small hole in the plasterboard where you want to feed the cables and just check.
     
  22. DVD-Man

    DVD-Man
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    I bought a stud finder and marked out what was what and the mount had the hardware for all wall types the big screw went in with a socket and ratchet.
     
  23. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Not sure I follow you, what would be behind the wooden frame if there is no block work?

    Edit: sorry think i misunderstood your previous message. Sorry this wall is against an outside wall not an internal wall (ie a partition). The plasterboard is connected to the outside wall for where il be mounting it.
    So to clarify its plaster board > onto. Wooden frame > wooden frame to the breeze block

    Not sure if insulation is placed between the plaster board and the breeze block or placed between the breeze block and externaL wall (I assume modern houses have an outter brick then inner breeze block construction
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2015
  24. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    I think we got our wires crossed a bit there :) If it's a traditional construction I would expect it to be brick, insulation,breeze block, studs, plasterboard.
     
  25. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Awesome thank you. I should be able to make 2 entry points into the plasterboard and run my cables up through that then :thumbsup:
     
  26. baker

    baker
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    If this backing onto an external wall, then I wouldn't expect it to have studs...

    I might be wrong, as I'm not a builder.

    But my first Flat (built 2004) and my current house (built 2006) have dot and dab directly onto the breeze blocks and then the plasterboard.

    In modern houses you'd only expect to get stud work for internal/stud walls.
     
  27. baker

    baker
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    This is when I did mine...

    [​IMG]

    You can see the breeze block directly behind its a small 10-12mm gap between block and plaster... and this is also on an external facing wall.

    You may well have studs... but you might want to be prepared for not having studs...
     
  28. IronGiant

    IronGiant
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    That's why I suggested a pilot hole, just to check. :)
     
  29. markgodley

    markgodley
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    Finally got round to mounting the TV this morning.

    I must say I'm impressed with the rigifix bolts. I went for the m8 ones in the end, in hind sight I wish I'd got the m6 ones. Mainly due to me having to be spot on with the drilling. One of the rigifix seemed to not screw in all the way, kinda went in about 1/2 way then wouldn't turn in any more (just kept going round and round) not sure why.

    Overall I would use them again, TV is going nowhere with these!

    Here's the finished job (in the corner on a moveable bracket so I can pull in and out)
     

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  30. baker

    baker
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    Looks good, what was the outcome on the space behind for running the cables?
     

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