Which system and layout for my new HT?

dolofsson

Active Member
Hi,

Been thinking for some time of way to upgrade my living room HT.

I currently have an old Onkyo NR809, a Musical Fidelity M6SI, a Sony ZD9, UBPX800 UHD-player, Apple Tv 4k and KEF R700 front L/R and a KEF R800C as center.

My room is approx 525x340x250 cm. There's however an 205 cm opening on one side, connected to hallway to kitchen and stairs up to 2nd floor and another big hallway, so that's probably quite some volume there..!

My usage is basically 90% streaming services for movies and series, and occasionally UHD discs. 10% music via Blusound, youtube or SACD.

I'd like more immersive sound, pref. wall mounted speakers, and I also would like brighter/more crisp sound than my Kefs (but that's for music and not really prioritized).



My thought is now to move into XTZ Cinema, with M6 as LCR, S5 as rears and either 2xS2 or 4xS2 for Atmos. (Everything wallmounted, with the S2:s on top of the fronts/rears.)

1) First question there, would M6 make sense, or is M8 better? Or M8 as center?
And, considering the room layout - is it viable with 4xS2 for Atmos or is that just waste due to impossible placement/inaccurate bounce to ceiling for listening position?

2) Then - I'm looking at sub for this. Considered 1 or 2 of XTZ's new 1x12 Edge Cinema sub (XTZ - SUB 1X12 EDGE - Subwoofers). Then I read all about the SVS PB3000. However, 2xXTZ is cheaper than 1xPB3000. Is the latter still a better option? Is it overkill for my room?

3) Third, on the receiver/amp side.. I see three routes here. What I've looked into so far:
Either go Anthem MRX 740 (but it has had some issues after launch on SW? And fan noise disturbing?)
Or Anthem AVM70 with Emotiva XPA g3 9ch (Either 3x300W + 6x65W or 5x200W + 4x65W - any recommendations? Or another setup of amps?)
Or a cheaper AV-receiver like Yamaha RX-A6A.
Would separate processor/amp be just overkill for my room/these speakers?

4) And lastly, looking at my room layout, can you tell whether it's prefered to switch sofa/tv/speakers to get the opening on the same side as TV or not? I guess it might affect sub? And, is the speaker placement viable or will the rears be too close to sofa(and atmos too far away from listening position?)

(Can also add that I probably might use a armchair and move it more to the center of the room when enjoying movies on my own, but that's not very often.)

Sorry for long post but hope to get some good feedback from you guys.

If you have some other route to suggest, I'm all ears! On speakers, subs or amps.
Living in Sweden, XTZ now also has a sale which means that I'll get f.e. a pair of M6 for around USD 1250, and a 1x12 Edge sub for USD 960.
 

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Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
I don´t think the XTZ Cinemas are bright/crisp sounding, have been reading and talking about them for years with owners and i don`t remember anyone saying that. They were little bit more warm sounding compared to M&K S150 if you read AVForums review of Cinema M6. Can you make trip to Torup where XTZ seems to have showroom in Sweden?


There isn´t many high performing on-wall speakers. M&K LCR750 comes to mind which should be great option aswell.



If you would be open for standmount speakers then Arendal from Norway would have few options. 1723 S and 1961 ranges which are both very popular. Quite many members have actually moved from XTZ M6s to Arendals (1723 S), their dynamics and soundstage is another level but they are also quite a bit larger. We do have owners thread for all three models so you can ask directly from owners aswell.





Have you actually listened your speakers with movies turning the Audussey MultEQ XT off? You have the lower version which has often done more harm than good cause it corrects the high frequencies in not so optimal way. The default target curve "Reference" rolls off the high frequencies. At least try the "Flat" and "Off" under MultEQ XT menu.
You already have very good speakers with older receiver. Personally i would wait with the speakers if you need newer av-receiver and untill you have bought subwoofers which will transform your system with action/scifi/horror stuff at least. You don`t have subwoofers now, right?

XTZ 1x12 Edge is actually cheaper than PB2000/PC2000 Pro in Sweden, those are it`s direct competitor not 3000 range. XTZ is bit smaller which could be benefit in your not so big room.

You also have Arendal 1961 1V for 999€. This model actually won the group test where was SVS PB2000 Pro and XTZ 1x12 Edge, plus other brands which weren´t as good.

If you read the review could you tell what made them pick Arendal as winner? It seems it was close call with those three models.


Ideally you should push the couch little bit forward which order you choose. Low frequencies tend to build up near the boundaries mudding up the sound. If you can push 0,5meter forward it would be great, but even less could help too.

Regarding the subs i would also consider placement so that one goes to front L or R and the other at rear L or R, but opposite side to front so not same wall. This may give you smoother response. But what you don`t want to do is to have it close to that opening if possible. Measure carefully which models you can fit at the back too with the big couch taking lot of space. Subwoofers can go in corner too especially if you buy better receiver with good room correction which eq`s the sub better than what you have now (poor). So you need to be ready to change the location of woofers if that is required for better response, otherwise quite pointless to throw so much money while not getting the benefits. Anthem ARC graphs (before) should show you if there is some big dips if you go with MRX740. The Yamaha model is too cheap, there is new models coming this month (RX-A6A, A8A).

Can you wall mount the height channels (S2) high up on front and rear wall or on-ceiling? Much better option than the bounce.
 
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dolofsson

Active Member
I don´t think the XTZ Cinemas are bright/crisp sounding, have been reading and talking about them for years with owners and i don`t remember anyone saying that. They were little bit more warm sounding compared to M&K S150 if you read AVForums review of Cinema M6. Can you make trip to Torup where XTZ seems to have showroom in Sweden?


There isn´t many high performing on-wall speakers. M&K LCR750 comes to mind which should be great option aswell.



If you would be open for standmount speakers then Arendal from Norway would have few options. 1723 S and 1961 ranges which are both very popular. Quite many members have actually moved from XTZ M6s to Arendals (1723 S), their dynamics and soundstage is another level but they are also quite a bit larger. We do have owners thread for all three models so you can ask directly from owners aswell.





Have you actually listened your speakers with movies turning the Audussey MultEQ XT off? You have the lower version which has often done more harm than good cause it corrects the high frequencies in not so optimal way. The default target curve "Reference" rolls off the high frequencies. At least try the "Flat" and "Off" under MultEQ XT menu.
You already have very good speakers with older receiver. Personally i would wait with the speakers if you need newer av-receiver and untill you have bought subwoofers which will transform your system with action/scifi/horror stuff at least. You don`t have subwoofers now, right?

XTZ 1x12 Edge is actually cheaper than PB2000/PC2000 Pro in Sweden, those are it`s direct competitor not 3000 range. XTZ is bit smaller which could be benefit in your not so big room.

You also have Arendal 1961 1V for 999€. This model actually won the group test where was SVS PB2000 Pro and XTZ 1x12 Edge, plus other brands which weren´t as good.

If you read the review could you tell what made them pick Arendal as winner? It seems it was close call with those three models.


Ideally you should push the couch little bit forward which order you choose. Low frequencies tend to build up near the boundaries mudding up the sound. If you can push 0,5meter forward it would be great, but even less could help too.

Regarding the subs i would also consider placement so that one goes to front L or R and the other at rear L or R, but opposite side to front so not same wall. This may give you smoother response. But what you don`t want to do is to have it close to that opening if possible. Measure carefully which models you can fit at the back too with the big couch taking lot of space. Subwoofers can go in corner too especially if you buy better receiver with good room correction which eq`s the sub better than what you have now (poor). So you need to be ready to change the location of woofers if that is required for better response, otherwise quite pointless to throw so much money while not getting the benefits. Anthem ARC graphs (before) should show you if there is some big dips if you go with MRX740. The Yamaha model is too cheap, there is new models coming this month (RX-A6A, A8A).

Can you wall mount the height channels (S2) high up on front and rear wall or on-ceiling? Much better option than the bounce.
Hi,

And thanks for thorough reply.

First off, brighter/crispier sound isn't prio, it's a bonus.
Actually - I haven't really missed it during movies/tv/series, I've more missed it during stereo music playback - with my m6si and from bluesound node.

However, the Arendals are absolutely interesting, both 1723 s and 1961. Both seems to be able to wall mount.
XTZ have buy and try so you can try them out for 45 days. (And Arendal seems to have 60 days.)

I really want wall mount, and that's because I feel that placement and distances with wallstanding/standmounted simply takes up too much space and are hard to place.
I have considered keeping my current speakers, but I don't have matching rears or atmos to buy. I don't have much room back of sofa - and fitting a standmounted speaker would need a gap of at least a metre behind sofa and I don't think that works for me - too much lost living room space.

On the sub, I would prefer having one only if possible, and at front by TV. Fitting a second sub on sofa side would be troublesome.. So my questions is basically, one PB3000 or 2 smaller subs at roughly equal price? Arendal is def. an option, maybe should move up to the one equal to pb3000-class. Need to check reviews for that (1723 2s?).
Do I get you right that if I go for the option with TV on the same wall as opening ("HT mirrored"-skech) - I would probably have the sub on the side away from the opening? (And to get optimal if 2 subs, the second one would be in the opposuite corner - behind the corner of the sofa?)

About Atmos, I could absolutely wall mount adjacent to ceiling. Not mount on ceiling though. Maybe I should then start with 2 front atmos as high up as possible? (Is that really atmos then, or would it rather be 7.1?)

Any input on the processor/amp? I Actually gave a6a as an example - not a8a though. But a6a maybe sufficent?

I could expand from my current speakers, and for example go with Arendals - 1 pair of surrounds and 1 pair of atmos - and also add a sub. (My Kefs are gloss white so at least I have a matching colour option.. :) ) Then processor/amp or integrated. Then I can decide on whether to also switch LCR. Maybe that's a good start..
 

Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
Hi,

And thanks for thorough reply.

First off, brighter/crispier sound isn't prio, it's a bonus.
Actually - I haven't really missed it during movies/tv/series, I've more missed it during stereo music playback - with my m6si and from bluesound node.

However, the Arendals are absolutely interesting, both 1723 s and 1961. Both seems to be able to wall mount.
XTZ have buy and try so you can try them out for 45 days. (And Arendal seems to have 60 days.)

I really want wall mount, and that's because I feel that placement and distances with wallstanding/standmounted simply takes up too much space and are hard to place.
I have considered keeping my current speakers, but I don't have matching rears or atmos to buy. I don't have much room back of sofa - and fitting a standmounted speaker would need a gap of at least a metre behind sofa and I don't think that works for me - too much lost living room space.

On the sub, I would prefer having one only if possible, and at front by TV. Fitting a second sub on sofa side would be troublesome.. So my questions is basically, one PB3000 or 2 smaller subs at roughly equal price? Arendal is def. an option, maybe should move up to the one equal to pb3000-class. Need to check reviews for that (1723 2s?).
Do I get you right that if I go for the option with TV on the same wall as opening ("HT mirrored"-skech) - I would probably have the sub on the side away from the opening? (And to get optimal if 2 subs, the second one would be in the opposuite corner - behind the corner of the sofa?)

About Atmos, I could absolutely wall mount adjacent to ceiling. Not mount on ceiling though. Maybe I should then start with 2 front atmos as high up as possible? (Is that really atmos then, or would it rather be 7.1?)

Any input on the processor/amp? I Actually gave a6a as an example - not a8a though. But a6a maybe sufficent?

I could expand from my current speakers, and for example go with Arendals - 1 pair of surrounds and 1 pair of atmos - and also add a sub. (My Kefs are gloss white so at least I have a matching colour option.. :) ) Then processor/amp or integrated. Then I can decide on whether to also switch LCR. Maybe that's a good start..

Yeah i know the feeling if you must upgrade then do it. But you don´t necessarily need matching surrounds. Probably 95%+ people have different brand overhead channels so they definitely don´t need to be "matched" and there is likely handfull of movies where you might hear the slight tonal difference if you concentrate listening the surrounds. I think if you pick wisely meaning something same quality level to your Kef R and when you have run room eq it level matches them and eq`s the response similar so chances are that you don´t notice anything. It`s often more to get same looking speakers what people want or they get mental. For surround speakers i would definitely prefer something like the Arendal 1961/1723 S surround (sadly i think both have black grilles on white finish!) which has Tri-Axial design meaning it will give you more dispersed soundfield as they fire in each direction. The sad part though is you have couch against wall which means the speakers will be very close to you which isn´t ideal. If you could have pushed the couch forwad then you could have opted for side wall placement, they require something around 20cm space from rear wall as the shoot there. But yeah we have lot of members who has placed them on rear wall aswell. You can`t mount them too high cause you go for Atmos. You need that height separation!! So surrounds only tad higher from seated ear height.

See my post #4 pictures of Arendal 1723 S Surrounds (white). Also you see the height channels placed high up front wall/rear wall, they are bit too narrow in those pictures. Arendal has 1961 Height model which can be mounted like that! It´s part of Dolby Atmos spec so not 7.1. Kef has Q50A and R8A or R50 (the ones which came later) which all can be wall mounted cause they have keyholes in the rear.

If you have R700 and R600c then i would think carefully, they are still really good speakers that most people would live happily ever after. But if you feel you need the floor space then do the change later. Definitely good idea to start adding those surrounds and height channels plus subwoofers cause it will be quite a change!

I thought i saw you wrote RX-V6A which is the budget version, but yeah A6A could be option. Also check NAD T778 what does it cost in your country compared to Anthem MRX740. Arcam AVR20 is likely very expensive. Would you need poweramps right away, i doubt but then again i don´t know are you often listening closer to reference or -10 master volume. You don´t have large room and sit quite close to speakers so perhaps not something you need to worry right away. MRX740 has the same 140w power amps for 1-5 channels as MRX1140, rest channels are class-d 60w which should be adequate as again you sit fairly close to them.

In many cases dual subwoofer is the way to go so two slightly smaller vs. one big assuming we are already in certain level so needs to be +600€ subs. But it´s tricky to know for sure without measuring the response with laptop and free program, but you need certain type of USB mic which costs 115£ called Umik-1. Another option is to wait until you get the receiver either one with ARC Genesis (Anthem) or Arcam/NAD which has Dirac Live. Both shows you the in-room response before graph quite detailed. So you can certainly start with one sub. If you look Arendal subs the question is will you go with ported model or sealed. Also notice they have right side firing drivers which may be problem if you would squeeze one sub at the rear corner. They are very narrow, but they also recommend 5-10cm driver clearance so 41cm or so is required at least for width. 1723 1V = vented 13,8" beast, check youtube video Tha_Villaman has clip for it so you see how massive it is! Then you have 1723 1S or 1961 1S which are sealed models and could be little bit easier to place, especially the latter being rather compact, but would you miss then the rumble and earthquake feel which the ported subs usually bring?! :) My vote would be the 1961 1V or 1723 1V cause you can still run them sealed if required and you still gain performance cause the cabinets are larger than sealed cousins, so it´s kinda win-win. I also say this cause you were looking ported models in first place so you probably know already what you want. It`s not just smoother response which you get with dual subs, people also report there is zero localization and just the feeling of more room filling bass. Hard to describe. Usually it`s once you go duals there is no way back. How many threads you find people not happy with dual woofers? Usually it´s very much the opposite, game changer. Again this can be done later too. At this point it`s good to think about though cause two massive boxes can be problematic.
 
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dolofsson

Active Member
Yeah i know the feeling if you must upgrade then do it. But you don´t necessarily need matching surrounds. Probably 95%+ people have different brand overhead channels so they definitely don´t need to be "matched" and there is likely handfull of movies where you might hear the slight tonal difference if you concentrate listening the surrounds. I think if you pick wisely meaning something same quality level to your Kef R and when you have run room eq it level matches them and eq`s the response similar so chances are that you don´t notice anything. It`s often more to get same looking speakers what people want or they get mental. For surround speakers i would definitely prefer something like the Arendal 1961/1723 S surround (sadly i think both have black grilles on white finish!) which has Tri-Axial design meaning it will give you more dispersed soundfield as they fire in each direction. The sad part though is you have couch against wall which means the speakers will be very close to you which isn´t ideal. If you could have pushed the couch forwad then you could have opted for side wall placement, they require something around 20cm space from rear wall as the shoot there. But yeah we have lot of members who has placed them on rear wall aswell. You can`t mount them too high cause you go for Atmos. You need that height separation!! So surrounds only tad higher from seated ear height.

See my post #4 pictures of Arendal 1723 S Surrounds (white). Also you see the height channels placed high up front wall/rear wall, they are bit too narrow in those pictures. Arendal has 1961 Height model which can be mounted like that! It´s part of Dolby Atmos spec so not 7.1. Kef has Q50A and R8A or R50 (the ones which came later) which all can be wall mounted cause they have keyholes in the rear.

If you have R700 and R600c then i would think carefully, they are still really good speakers that most people would live happily ever after. But if you feel you need the floor space then do the change later. Definitely good idea to start adding those surrounds and height channels plus subwoofers cause it will be quite a change!

I thought i saw you wrote RX-V6A which is the budget version, but yeah A6A could be option. Also check NAD T778 what does it cost in your country compared to Anthem MRX740. Arcam AVR20 is likely very expensive. Would you need poweramps right away, i doubt but then again i don´t know are you often listening closer to reference or -10 master volume. You don´t have large room and sit quite close to speakers so perhaps not something you need to worry right away. MRX740 has the same 140w power amps for 1-5 channels as MRX1140, rest channels are class-d 60w which should be adequate as again you sit fairly close to them.

In many cases dual subwoofer is the way to go so two slightly smaller vs. one big assuming we are already in certain level so needs to be +600€ subs. But it´s tricky to know for sure without measuring the response with laptop and free program, but you need certain type of USB mic which costs 115£ called Umik-1. Another option is to wait until you get the receiver either one with ARC Genesis (Anthem) or Arcam/NAD which has Dirac Live. Both shows you the in-room response before graph quite detailed. So you can certainly start with one sub. If you look Arendal subs the question is will you go with ported model or sealed. Also notice they have right side firing drivers which may be problem if you would squeeze one sub at the rear corner. They are very narrow, but they also recommend 5-10cm driver clearance so 41cm or so is required at least for width. 1723 1V = vented 13,8" beast, check youtube video Tha_Villaman has clip for it so you see how massive it is! Then you have 1723 1S or 1961 1S which are sealed models and could be little bit easier to place, especially the latter being rather compact, but would you miss then the rumble and earthquake feel which the ported subs usually bring?! :) My vote would be the 1961 1V or 1723 1V cause you can still run them sealed if required and you still gain performance cause the cabinets are larger than sealed cousins, so it´s kinda win-win. I also say this cause you were looking ported models in first place so you probably know already what you want. It`s not just smoother response which you get with dual subs, people also report there is zero localization and just the feeling of more room filling bass. Hard to describe. Usually it`s once you go duals there is no way back. How many threads you find people not happy with dual woofers? Usually it´s very much the opposite, game changer. Again this can be done later too. At this point it`s good to think about though cause two massive boxes can be problematic.

Thanks again.

I'm leaning towards starting with heights and surrounds together with sub and receiver. Rear hights and rear sub still optional. Providing a new sketch. That positioning of surrounds is ok (with the 1723 s surrounds)?

However - both surrounds and heights in 1723 S series are out of stock. The pic you provided, was that the white satin finish on the surrounds?

Regardless, I need to finalize decision on av receiver or processor/amp first. AVR20 is not super far away from MRX740 in pricing here, about 20%. I guess separates is more flexible and even more power, but then also almost double the price. Impossible to tell whether the difference is noticable under my room and planned speaker conditions.. Maybe this isn't the place where my money should go primarily, but I honestly don't know. At least I need some proper room correction as you pointed out.

On the sub, I guess 1723 1V would be the choice if picking one and from Arendal. However, it's about same pricing as PB3000 and the latter one seems to be a better performer? Can't find any reviews on 1V.. (Personally hesitating a bit for PB3000 though because of the kind of meh finish option black ash compared to Arendal..)
Even if I don't have any sub currently, I think I'd want ported version since I (during HT) prefer the rumbling, deep bass as you described before finesse. Dual sub would however get really expensive but I guess that's a decision for the future.. :)

Now I've completely disregarded the 1961 range, but that might seem more like a downgrade to kef r?

However, the recommendation not to wall mount LCR kind of bugs me a bit. If I'd like to go complete 1723 s as an example, how much of a compromise is it to stuff the port and wall mount? Read in arendals own brochure that they recommend at least 30cm ( I think it was) to wall, and nothing about wall mount was mentioned...
 

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Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
See my post #2 and the pictures that still shows there, it would look quite close to what you have in the plan. Usually the manufacturer recommends 1-2feet from nearest wall. Arendal has tweeters also firing forward so perhaps you could push them little bit more forward as you can move the couch too. I don`t know was it satin white or gloss white in the earlier picture.

You need to contact Arendal for any special questions as they know their products best. They are big and fairly heavy speakers so typically not wall mounted (Monitor), and would look bit odd maybe. I would still hold that thought as the Kef system will come alive like big time when you have everything optimized around the R-serie LCR; new receiver, surrounds & atmos, sub(s) that takes lot of strain off from Kefs and receiver..

Both Arcam and Anthem have bugs still. Anthems ARC Genesis likely bit easier to use what i have heard, but i can´t confirm that claim. You can buy poweramps for any receiver later so you don´t have to worry about not being powerfull enough. You don´t require processor for that. How much does the NAD T778 cost? It uses the same Dirac Live as Arcam. Has some cool running class-d amps.

By all means choose 1V then if it suits your room better. I don´t believe there is that big difference in reality. The measurements have issues cause the driver and port is not on same side. You can be certain that it won´t leave you cold. It`s a big box with high excursion 13,8" driver and lots of power and that slot port at back to move massive amount of air. 1723 range will get phone app control in near future aswell. :) Reviews are coming for the subs, that range is so new still. Watch the clips below: This guy has heard almost every SVS subs and he was super impressed with 1V. We are splitting hairs here, when you get this level it´s not going to underwhelm you that`s for sure. Arendal knows how to build quality subs. There is no similar limitations than the earlier range had. Imagine if you get two of such boxes. What would be lacking? Nothing. Arendal just like 99% sub manufacturers recommend front corner placement so i would start with that in your room plan so front right corner leaving 10cm for the right side firing driver vs. side wall! You get boundary gain aswell so it´s going to perform even better. Trust me on this; do not buy anything that doesn`t look good now, if you get mixed feel of the looks. You will be watching the product for years to come every day. There is very high chance for buyers remorse if you buy something that doesn`t tick all boxes for you.




Here is link for Ambassadors system with gloss black Arendal subs (the largest ported):
 

dolofsson

Active Member
See my post #2 and the pictures that still shows there, it would look quite close to what you have in the plan. Usually the manufacturer recommends 1-2feet from nearest wall. Arendal has tweeters also firing forward so perhaps you could push them little bit more forward as you can move the couch too. I don`t know was it satin white or gloss white in the earlier picture.

You need to contact Arendal for any special questions as they know their products best. They are big and fairly heavy speakers so typically not wall mounted (Monitor), and would look bit odd maybe. I would still hold that thought as the Kef system will come alive like big time when you have everything optimized around the R-serie LCR; new receiver, surrounds & atmos, sub(s) that takes lot of strain off from Kefs and receiver..

Both Arcam and Anthem have bugs still. Anthems ARC Genesis likely bit easier to use what i have heard, but i can´t confirm that claim. You can buy poweramps for any receiver later so you don´t have to worry about not being powerfull enough. You don´t require processor for that. How much does the NAD T778 cost? It uses the same Dirac Live as Arcam. Has some cool running class-d amps.

By all means choose 1V then if it suits your room better. I don´t believe there is that big difference in reality. The measurements have issues cause the driver and port is not on same side. You can be certain that it won´t leave you cold. It`s a big box with high excursion 13,8" driver and lots of power and that slot port at back to move massive amount of air. 1723 range will get phone app control in near future aswell. :) Reviews are coming for the subs, that range is so new still. Watch the clips below: This guy has heard almost every SVS subs and he was super impressed with 1V. We are splitting hairs here, when you get this level it´s not going to underwhelm you that`s for sure. Arendal knows how to build quality subs. There is no similar limitations than the earlier range had. Imagine if you get two of such boxes. What would be lacking? Nothing. Arendal just like 99% sub manufacturers recommend front corner placement so i would start with that in your room plan so front right corner leaving 10cm for the right side firing driver vs. side wall! You get boundary gain aswell so it´s going to perform even better. Trust me on this; do not buy anything that doesn`t look good now, if you get mixed feel of the looks. You will be watching the product for years to come every day. There is very high chance for buyers remorse if you buy something that doesn`t tick all boxes for you.




Here is link for Ambassadors system with gloss black Arendal subs (the largest ported):

Yes, that looks viable with the surrounds.

T778 is about 5 % cheaper than MRX740, but I've seen some negative reviews complaining about bugs and issues on it and it also lacks hdmi 2.1?

I agree that I could go with f.e. MRX740 and then add amp if needed..
A bit worried about the fan issue that people are reporting though?
(Is that mrx only or also avm?) Is there a major difference between mrx740 vs avm70 + amp - i.e.if it's within budget - should I go the latter way straight away considering the room/speakers we've been discussing? (Room not likely to change anytime soon.. 😊)

1V indeed looks sufficient.. 😊 I'm providing a pic of my current setup, it's a bit distorted (looks smaller) but you get the feeling of the floor space. (I will move it to other wall with opening on one side but that doesn't help the right corner.)
The rack in the middle is about 120 cm wide, which leaves 110 cm on each side.
Would it be an issue with the sub as you mentioned since it's firing to the side? However, in the vid you posted he seems to have the sub very close to the floorstander..
 

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Gasp3621

Distinguished Member
If you look the Dolby graphs the surrounds would be slightly behind the listeners on the sides, not behind. But with these triaxial tripole type speakers i have seen so many types of installation. They shoot every direction and the Arendal speakers should have quite wide dispersion anyway so probably not going to be issue. I would just ask from the company how much they recommend the speaker to be mounted from rear wall, i mean the nearest tweeter which shoots back to your rear wall. Monitor Audio recommends 2feet for most optimal results, but less can work too.

Arendal subs need about 5-10cm space for the driver, the company says 10cm but lot of people have less so it can work fine. Of course if you opt for the wall mounted speakers then there would be more space below. Arendal subs are quite tall though. The sub can still work great in the ~ 1/4 width spot at front right side if you swap the order to opposite side wall from that picture. We do what we can and the ARC graphs will then tell you more.

For sure Anthem then. No idea about the fan issue are they being fixed or what. We have anthem thread on the receiver section, you could ask from owners there. I can`t answer the second question as i wouldn´t be spending that kind of money for gear without dedicated room, but many does if they want the best what is available. There is mixed feedback in different forums, but at least there wouldn`t be any upgrade route so you would be done for years. It`s not going to be cheap though. Emotiva XPA for the bed layer perhaps (1-5 channels) and the new Emotiva BassX poweramps for the Atmos (4ch) could be the way to go then.

 

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