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What paint???

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by chubbs, Nov 1, 2004.

  1. chubbs

    chubbs
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    I am new to all this so please bear with me if I sound a little dumb.

    I have recently purchased an infocus LP420 projector as something that I can try and see if I like the idea of a projector.

    I have a wall that I have just built out of MDF which I am planning the picture to be projected on. What I am trying to find out is...

    What is the best colour paint to use on the wall when I come to paint it.

    I have seen that a lot of people use Icestorm 5/6 mix, would this be my best choice?

    If not what would?

    Many thanks

    chubbs :clap:
     
  2. RichMercer

    RichMercer
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    There's so many factors to consider. My current screen has been painted using a brilliant white matt emulsion and give good results but light levels aren't too much of a problem in my living room. My next screen will be done in Icestorm 6 which is practically white to the naked eye. Some people have used Icestorm 5 and love it, others think it's too dark. It's so hard to reccomend a color without knowing the circumstances involved.

    However, my personal reccomendation is to go with Icestorm 6, but that may not work for you.
     
  3. chubbs

    chubbs
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    thanks, With regard to light levels, is that the amount of light that will be in the room when the projector is being used?

    I don't have blackout curtains just yet but they will be coming shortly. does this then make a difference?

    If so what do I do?
     
  4. RichMercer

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    Pretty much, yes. Some people don't like to watch TV with the curtains closed so will obviously have much higher light levels in the room. Yes, black out lining on your curtains will make a big difference if they currently let a lot of light in at the moment, but obviously only when you close them. Other factors to consider and things such as the colors of your walls, ceiling and carpet. Naturally, light walls will reflect more light than dark colored wall, and the same applies to the ceiling and carpet. Really, you have to balance all this up and then decide based on the conditions for most of your viewing, how much light will be in the room. If the room will be very bright, you might want to go for an Icestorm 5 where as in a darker room, Icestorm 6, maybe even brilliant white will probably be fine.
     
  5. chubbs

    chubbs
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    So basically, your telling me that the brighter the room the darker the screen should be and vice versa?

    the other walls I was going to paint a cappachino candy 3, which is coffee coloured. pretty obvious really..... ignore the last comment....

    and the ceiling will be painted in a matt brilliant white.

    does this help with the colour that I should be using?
     
  6. RichMercer

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    To be honest, the best thing I can reccomend is you project onto white and see how the picture is. The reason for the darker paint is to increase the black levels. Black is defined by the absence of light, so as you can imaging, a grey paint will appear to have blacker blacks. Be careful though! The darker the screen, the poorer the colors will be. It's a trade off between vivid colors and dark black levels. You don't want to go any darker than Icestorm 5 for sure. If you can project onto something white and see how a dark image looks. Perhaps a night scene from a movie or something. Ideally, you will still be able to see things that are in the scene but dark such as and unlight item sitting on a dark desk. It's hard to explain and where I am at has come from experimenting and doing different things. I wish there was one thing I could say that applies to you. Like I said, if you can, experiment.

    Edit: Don't forget, if you have paint something onto your surface and don't like it, paint over it. It wont cost you lots to experiment, especially if you already have matt emulsion for your ceiling. ;) It wont take much paint to do the screen.
     
  7. chubbs

    chubbs
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    thanks for that, i'll give it a go and see what happens.

    I see what you mean about the white and colour shades dependant on the projector.

    I shall try this and if i'm stuck i'll come back to you.

    cheers
     
  8. RichMercer

    RichMercer
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    No probs, if we can shed any more light on this subject for you, just ask.


    (I know, that was terrible).
     
  9. chubbs

    chubbs
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    thanks richard,

    Don't worry, if I have any problems you can rest assure that I "won't keep you in the dark"...

    Is that as bad?

    cheers
     
  10. MississippiMan

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    Rather "dull" actually. :zonked:

    I'll post a "contrast enhanced" paint mix later that will dispell all doubts of what is the easiest and most affordable "1 coater"

    Intense Black levels and vibrant colors. Drastically reduced SDE and artifacts. Crisp whites (...to most observer's eyes, you results may vary...) and cost?

    If your paint tech can take the Pigment formula I give you and duplicate it, about 4 Quid.

    If not, it can be shipped.

    Mississippimud?

    Nope.

    Misty Evening, a Glidden "off the shelf'er" :clap:

    All credit for finding that little Gem goes to CMRA, the basement dwelling Gnome I collaborate with from time to time. Actually, there are many ME screens in use worldwide, so i'm surprised you don't aleady know about it?

    Neat thing is, it can be darkened or lightened as your Contrast VS Ambient light situation and your PJ's Lumen value demands.

    I luv dis :censored: stuff!


    ..........and here it is: ME..., like Mom used to make.

    Take 1 quart of #1 Base (Pure White) Flat Latex
    Add 5/48 Oz. of Lamp Black
    Add 1/48 Oz. of Thallo Green

    The mix is perfect as is for a LCD PJ

    Got a DLP?
    Or the desire for a really big screen?
    You should consider mixing 3 quarts of ME with 1 quart Deep Base (virtually no White oxide...very transparent.)
    Prime the wall with a High Gloss Ultra Pure White Enamel, lighty wet sand, wipe, then Coat with the "ME Lite" until you can just no longer see the white's influence.

    The big difference here is instead of using a Bright white surface, and depending on the weaker "dark " light spectrum to bounce off the under coat of White, ME affects the Blacks at the surface, but allows enough "Bright Colors & Whites" to become noticably "punchy'er".
     
  11. Solomon Grundy

    Solomon Grundy
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    I painted my wall Icestorm 5 and yes it was too dark for me and my projector (H30). It destroyed the colours on almost all live action movies although the blacks were good. White was no good either as the blacks were not deep enough...so I painted the wall in Magnolia and it looks great, it seems to love the colours and keep the blacks looking good too...am I mad, should I try Icestorm 6????
     
  12. RichMercer

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    I'm yet to fully try icestorm 6 as I'm still making my screen. I'll certainly post my findings when it's up and in use (along with screen shots of course ;)). Judging by the first coat though, it shouldn't mess up the colors too much as it's very close to white.
     
  13. Gee

    Gee
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    I've got a Sanyo PLV-Z1 and I have painted my screen with icestorm 6. The blacks look nice and dark and the whites are as they should be. Total cost for the screen was about £14. Bargain! :clap:
     
  14. chubbs

    chubbs
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    I think that I'll be going for the icestorm 6 initially and then seeing what it looks like. If I'm not happy with it, i'll get back onto the forum and see what is recommended to improve the colours that I'm missing.

    Would you recommend that I am to put a frame around the area that I am projecting onto?

    It's easy enough to make a frame so is it worth doing?

    cheers.
     
  15. RichMercer

    RichMercer
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    Personally, I would make sure the picture is 'framed' but that doesn't mean you have to make a frame. Have you seen the photos of my setup? I have painted a matt black border onto the screen. Some people have made an actual frame out of wood or other material and wrapped it in black felt or something similar to absorb the light.

    Either way, you will notice a much better picture if you have a light absorbing border. It makes more difference than you can imagine!
     
  16. MississippiMan

    MississippiMan
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    The two chief reasons why a Blackout Boarder is used are;

    1. To catch Light Spill. In the 'Days of Yore', many PJ applications did not match up screen with image very well, and the quality at the edges was inferior and darker as well. So when an image was projected onto a surface, the "framing" of the image's center area would result in a better presentation overall. A square or 4:3 image with sharply defined borders. Nowadays, Digital Keystoning, Les shift (Up-Down-R&L) all work to make 'squaring' an image within a restrained border much easier.

    But "square" isn't all that counts. Eve new PJs often deliver an image where the edges are either less defined or exhbit a noticable line at the edge, either darker or lighter than the image within that line.

    Sooooo., being able to overscan an image so that the affected area lies within the "Blackout" zone will always assure you of a pristine edge where the image starts, looks good, and pleases the ethestic eye.

    2. Contrast enhancement;
    The mind uses the eye to tell it what to observe. When the eye sees a black boarder, blacker than any black within a center area in from it's edges, all blacks within the boarder will be adjudged "Blacker" than they really are.

    Without that advantage, blacks will seem "Gray" in any PJ not of true CRT design, with CR values @ 30,000:1

    The best 3 Chipper DLPs come in a 6,000:1 Most "affordable" DLPs approach 2,000:1
    Many suffer along in the "Sub 2000:1 range.
    MOST LCDs come behind at 1500:1 or less, often down to 800:1 or less :rolleyes:

    For all of the above PJs, excluding the CRT, a Blackout Boarder will significantly enhance perceived Contrast. Real or not, the image that pleases gets watched without comment.



    But if your Home Theater, PJ selection, and viewing habits all come together into a totally light controled environment, and the presentation wall is significantly dark outside a reflective screen area, and if you can square the edges perfectly withing the exact confines of whatever screen area you use, then probably you'll be very happy.

    Miss fire on one or more, and if your any kind of enthusiast, you'll lament not going the "Boarder" route everytime you turn that PJ on.

    Who needs / wants that?

    Worse, you already know, most certainly, that every 'nit-pickin' friend you have will be sure to point that one little discrepency out and ask".....", well, you know what they'll say.

    Even a thin Black velvet wrapped piece of trim only 8 mm high will suffice far better than nothing at all.

    ...but of course, these days, many are shooting an image onto a plain white wall, and messin' thar wittle britches over the results. Todays PJs do make that possible, for a 2000:1 CR image up on a white wall w/no trim will still impress far more than a 200:1 CR image on a expensive screen.

    I leave you with this....; Why settle for less when better cost just a little more. You decide..., or defer to the Little Woman. After all, more screens have gone without boarders because the Wifey said she didn't like the Black Frame than have ever done so because the husbund didn't feel the "technical" need for the boarder. :(
     
  17. RichMercer

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    Wise words indeed MM. In summary to that and to reiterate my original comment.

    DO IT! You know it makes sense!
     

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