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What fixings ? ?

Discussion in 'Plasma TVs' started by Montana, Dec 14, 2003.

  1. Montana

    Montana
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    Hi,
    This time next weekend I should be the proud owner of a plasma :clap: .It is going to be wall mounted using a Unicol PLX.My problem is I have walls made of plaster direct on to lightweights(breeze, for you older members).I have looked at the website and it doesn't say how many holes there are to mount the back plate AND what type of bolts etc etc etc.What would you guys recommend.Especially as the weight that it is going to carry, do someone like TLC-DIRECT have anything that would do the job well ? As I have one local to me.
    Any and all sugestions would be most helpful.Many thanks in advance.

    Andy
     
  2. ASH1

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    Hi Andy, I have my plasma in our extension and like yours the internal walls are Solar or breeze blocks with plaster on top. The bracket I bought from Richer Sounds came with screws and fixings which were just wall plugs with two lugs that stick out. You can get them from B&Q, there where ten in all but this will depend on which bracket you use I suppose. I was a bit dubious at first to weather it would hold the weight, but it's still on the wall two months later (hope I haven't spoke to soon). The screws where size 10 and about 2 and a half inches long. Hope this helps.

    ASH1 :smashin:
     
  3. SimonO

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    I accept no responsibility for anyone elses DIY..! But, there is another thread that recommends a soft concrete block specific fixing (I think it was a branded Rawl product)... Then you have the two part glue in threaded rods and the over sized plugs with coach screws (as supplied with Pivoteli TV/speaker brackets)... The expanding Rawl bolt type fixings aren't recommended for soft blocks, but I've read posts claiming successful installations... I haven't tried any of the above YET, but when I do I will probably try the coach screws first and if I'm not happy then the glued in threaded rods...

    Have fun...
     
  4. Brogan

    Brogan
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    I fixed my bracket direct to plasterboard using er, 6 plasterboard fixings - the same type used for radiators.
    These are they although I can't remember if I used M8 or M6 size: http://www.diy.com/bq/product/product.jhtml?PRODID=19707&CATID=11304

    If 4 of them can support the weight of a 1 metre double radiator filled with water, I have no doubt at all that they can support a plasma and bracket.
    Took me about 10 minutes to put mine up and it's still where I left it...
     
  5. lotusman1

    lotusman1
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    Being a carpenter i have some experience of fixings!The wall you are referring to is a drylined wall,i have the same in my house and fixed my plasma to the wall using fischer fixings about 5"long(fischer is brand name)you can tell this type of fixing because the plug part is the same length as the screw.The only problem when fixing to drylined wall is you cannot guarantee being able to get a fixing directly on top of a "DAB" so sometimes if you try to tighten up the fixing tightly the board will flex and may crumple,although the size of the mount usually means the pressure is spread evenly so this is'nt a problem.With regards to plasterboard fixings i wouldnt trust them to hold up anything like a plasma,when they are used to hold rads to the wall you have to remember the copper pipes do a certain amount of weight carrying,i have seen over time rads pulling these type of fixings out and the only support being the pipe!If you have to fix to hollw plasterboard wall ALWAYS cut out a section of board and nog behind!
     
  6. SimonO

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    Montana says he has plaster on soft blocks, not plasterboard...
     
  7. Darren Blake

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    I have plaster over breezeblocks.

    8 x 2.5" long number 12 screws into standard brown rawlplugs. The screens' not going anywhere. Just drill the holes for the plugs slightly undersize.
     
  8. SimonO

    SimonO
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    I agree with Darren that one of the most important things is to get the holes the right size... Drill them 0.5/1mm undersize as they always seem to 'grow'..!
     
  9. Brogan

    Brogan
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    Not when they are plastic speed-fit pipes - the entire weight is taken by the fixings.
     
  10. rolandrat

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    Screwfix direct or B&Q sell a special polyester resin for these light blocks.
    My plasma wall bracket has eight holes (4 each side) - I got 8 threaded bolts cut down to about 10-12" in length, I drilled holes in the plasterboard about 1" across with a hole cutter, I then drilled holes into blocks with a 12mm drill bit. Using a combination of hoover and air blower I cleaned out the holes.
    Squeezed this resin stuff into the holes and slowly twisted the bolts in. Job done. This stuff sets in no time so you either have to do the whole thing at once or buy 2 resin packs. I actually did the top two holes first then hung the bracket on them while I did the other 6 later - it all lines up perfectly then.
    Two days later I could hang from the bracket myself, so a plasma is no problem.
     
  11. lotusman1

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    I still would'nt trust plasterboard fixings,they are only as strong as the surface you are fixing to, i certainly would'nt put my trust in half an inch of plasterboard and a couple of toggle fixings to hang 3.5k worth of anything on the wall!
     
  12. Jasonjo

    Jasonjo
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    Hi,

    You need fixings designed for aircrete.

    Have a look at http://rswww.com and search for "aircrete". The fixings are called twist lock anchors...

    A few other members have used them and I have already bought some for when my plasma arrives...

    HTH

    JJ

    P.S. Search the forum and you should also be able to find some other useful stuff - try searching on "aircrete" or "thermalite" or "wall mounting"
     
  13. Brogan

    Brogan
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    So what exactly would you recommend for an internal partition wall then?
    There is nothing except plasterboard and a few bits of 2x2, which invariable don't line up with the holes in the bracket.
    So that means fixing a huge sheet of MDF/wood to the wooden carcass and then the bracket to the sheet.
    Not a very elegant solution.

    P.S. It's £5.5k too - it's a 504....;)
     
  14. lotusman1

    lotusman1
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    Just cut out a section of plasterboard and nog where you need fixings,you will almost always need to anyway if you want to route power cables and such like anyway.I do understand though that your general bod might be a bit daunted by ripping bits of plasterboard off the wall and me being in the trade makes it easy for me but it really is easy with patience.
     
  15. Brogan

    Brogan
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    I suppose that's about the only way to do it but as I didn't need to route any cables and had just decorated, I was reluctant to rip half the wall down.
    I suppose I could come in from the rear (so to speak) and rip the plasterboard off from the study and nog it that way.
    Then again I could just leave it and see what happens.
    There's always the house insurance if the worst happens...;)
     
  16. SimonO

    SimonO
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    Jasonjo... Which size Fischer fixing have you gone for..?
     
  17. ASH1

    ASH1
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    Hi JJ, going of the thead I know but what plasma did you go for?
     
  18. hb1966

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    Hi Brogan, Im in a similar quandry to you. Ive got a new house and a Plasma arriving on Wednesday. Initially I was going to wall mount, but Ive currently wimped out and gone for a table mount.

    I dont know whether you are aware but if you hav 9.5mm plasterboard the studs should be no more than 400mm apart. If its 12.5mm board they can be 600mm apart. So says my B&Q DIY manual.

    I dont know what mounting holes you have in your bracket, but if you mark you walls with chalk where the noggins and studs are, you might be able to locate your bracket?
     
  19. Brogan

    Brogan
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    hb, I reckon it's only 9.5mm plasterboard - I wouldn't expect the cheapskate builder to have used anything decent.
    Not sure how far apart the fixings are but IIRC there are 3 on the left, 2 in the centre and 3 on the right - max distance is probably around 40-50cm.

    It would be impossible to fit the bracket to the carcass as there are only certain holes which can be used and the plasma had to be sited in a specific place on the wall.

    As I have said, I'm really not worried about it.
    I made sure the bracket was well and truly secure before mounting the plasma.
    As lotusman has suggested, the plasterboard may crumble and/or flex/bow but I'll worry about that if and when it happens.
    In all my years I've never yet had anything fall off/apart/down.

    Besides, I can always claim on the house insurance and upgrade to the new 504MXE which should be out next year...;)
     
  20. SimonO

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    Or you could upgrade to a Panasonic... ;)
     
  21. Montana

    Montana
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    Hb1966, If the house is brand new, or even just a couple of years old the minimum plasterboard thickness is now 12.5mm.This is for fire safety reasons.It also depends on the building regulations of the particular council of how far the studs are apart and the plasterboard thickness, best use a stud and electrical finder to find out where they are.If you need any more help I will contact my builder who may be of some assistance.The unfortunate thing being he deals with bigger construction(e.g the building of the houses themselves and not internal fixing , hence this post in the first place.

    Andy
     
  22. lotusman1

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    Or worse still most of the current houses we are building at the moment are all metal stud,600mm spaced vertical studs with no horizontal studding at all quick and easy to erect but crap imho.
     
  23. Jasonjo

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    SimonO => I bought the Fischer Twist Lock Anchors and the Fischer FUR universal frame fixing as I am not 100% sure of the wall type. I am pretty sure the walls are aircrete, but also got the frame fixings in case they are standard concrete breeze block. Bought both from RS componets for about £20.

    Ash => Hi Ash, long time no talk :). I ordered the 434, but cancelled it at the last minute as I didn't know whether I could live with the noisy/textured picture after a few demos. Since then I have looked at the Panny 6 and I am pretty sure that I will be getting the PWD6. Still deliberating though - will make my final decision after xmas, and then sort my life out and order one ;)

    JJ
     
  24. SimonO

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    Jasonjo... I did the same and canelled my deposit on a 504HDE... I'm now going for the Panasonic 50" soon after Christmas..! Much better picture than the Pioneer IMO (apart from lower quality sources like analogue RF where the Pioneer processing is very good)...
     
  25. Montana

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    Thanks Jasonjo for the Twist Lock Anchors , I will be getting some tomorrow.I to was put off by some of the demo's I had with the Pio, but the last demo I had they were equal.So who really knows.My plasma (god willing) should be with me on Saturday, and before you ask I'm getting the PHD6.This is cause I wanted to future proof a little with a higher res.As the results I saw using HD material on a higher res. panel does make a difference.

    Andy
     
  26. hb1966

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    Montana, lotusman1
    That explains a lot. Ive spent ages tapping the walls trying to find the studs behind. The stud/cable locator I have isn't helping. It will find nails in the ceilling but not in the walls, leading me to beleive they might have stuck the plasterboard to the studs on the wall? Worse still I cant locate a stud across the entire height of a wall, they only seem to appear at random positions. House was built early this year and I have the builders in tomorrow to do some work, so will quiz them then. Im playing safe at the moment and going to fix mine to a table structure.
     
  27. Brogan

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    You could always use wires fixed to the floor and ceiling.
    That was an option I was considering and would look very contemporary and fit the overall effect of a plasma.
     
  28. lotusman1

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    I tell you what brogan that is a genius idea!I maty have to put my plasma in front of the lounge window(not high enough to be too ugly from outside)and that may just be an ideal method,anyone have any ideas on the best way to achieve this?
     
  29. Jasonjo

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    p.s. that'll teach you for using the "other" forum, 10+ responses here, 1 response from there!!!! (which is my repeat ;))

    JJ
     
  30. Brogan

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    lotusman, I was considering using steel cable fixed to some carriage bolts in the floor joists and cemented into the floor.
    I had not worked out how to attach each length to the back of the plamsa panel or how to tension it as I was able to get it on the wall after removing some rad's, etc.
    I can't imagine however it would be too difficult to fabricate some sort of fixing which could be bolted to the back of the plasma using the same holes for the bracket and also providing some means of attaching 4/2 cables.
    The difficult part would be tensioning them sufficiently to ensure the display is stable enough.
    I know a few others were also considering this but don't know if anyone actually did it...
     

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