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what dreams are made of....

Discussion in 'AV Receivers & Amplifiers' started by marcoeser, Jul 24, 2002.

  1. marcoeser

    marcoeser
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    Ok guys,

    I need a little help to realise a dream.

    I'v now started designing/building my own house with a dedicated cinema in the basement :D, size about 9m x 5m x 3m. I am thinking of some kind of projection system: barco or sony, not sure yet:rolleyes:, but my question here is what amps should I go for within my current system .
    I am dreaming of changing my front kef 55's to ref 205's. Should I sell my old Sony TAN9000es amp or just use it in bridged mode on my rears???? Everyone has said Bryston are the way forward. Do I just get an amp for the fronts? but do they work well with a sony amp in the same system? or do I get complete new range of monoblocks or another combination of amps, I've worked out that I need 8 channels ( bi-amping fronts and center and 2 more for rears)

    Of course all this is just talk and dependant on cash and I won't know, until I've completed the room and hear how my current system sounds. But if I know I have to accomodate 8 monoblocks, now's the time to know, not when its all finished.

    marc :confused:
     
  2. Reiner

    Reiner
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    No expert here but I am also dreaming of some seperates system.

    Bryston has a very good reputation so I would definetely consider them but in the end it all depends on the budget.
    That said monoblocks can differ greatly in prize and size that it's impossible to plan unless you know what you want.

    BTW: Marantz did some fairly small monoblocks where IMHO 5 side-by-side would only be as wide as a normal amp (appr. 44cm).
    On the other hand I would consider a power amp with independent modules inside as comparable to those smaller monoblocks (and only one power cord is needed).

    But if you can afford it and choose a "real" monoblock from e.g. Theta or Krell, well then .... ;)
     
  3. Branxx

    Branxx
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    I am considering similar move to my cellar that would be slightly smaller.

    I would strongly recommend that you drop the idea of separate amplification an go for active speaker solution. Several good reasons come to mind:
    • My suggestion is to go for M&K professional actives. The audio quality is absolutly stanning, with effortless delivery and owesome clarity and precission. Each speaker comes with 2x150W amp, i.e. 300W per box. In a room of your size you may even consider doubling each front speaker (that is easily done with M&K's as they have stacking option build in).
    • Cabling will be simplified as you will be able to use very reasonably priced balanced cables.
    • Heat control is easier to deal with as the heat coming from apmlifiers will be spread around larger space.
    • M&K speakers come is quite small boxes and would be easily incorporated into walls or custom furniture, if this is what you desire.
    • Price/performance of professional audio equipment is considerably better than the consumer one.
    • You will be extrimelly pleased with the outcome!
     
  4. Lowrider

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    My dream system has Bryston 6B SST 3x300 watts for front and center, I don´t care about bi-amping, more and more top speakers don´t even provide that option... And PowerPacks 250 or even 120, for each surround...

    Now active speakers are a different story, I can see the advantages, just there is not enough choice outside the professional market, and their "sound" might not be my cup of tea, as they have different priorities...
     
  5. Branxx

    Branxx
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    An active speaker is effectively monoblock attached to the back of the ordinary box. I even think early M&K actives were actually using Bryston monoblocks.

    There are consumer version of many active speakers including M&K and Genelec. They cost about 30% more just for the pleasure of having a choice.
     
  6. Lowrider

    Lowrider
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    I know there are a few, Meridien and Waveform, for instance, now if only they would make a Sonus Faber Cremona active...
     
  7. marcoeser

    marcoeser
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    Thanks for all your very interesting suggestions. You've given me alot to think about and even more research.

    The active speakers are the most improbable, it'll mean replacing all my speakers. I have to check prices. Do you have a useful links I can read more about these speakers?

    The most probable option is adding a Byston for the fronts and put my sony am for the rears. Can you see any compatibility problems?

    Why don't you think much of biamping? should I forget about it?

    marc :)
     
  8. Lowrider

    Lowrider
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    First, as I mentioned, many high-end brands are not providing for that option anymore, for instance Sonus Faber (the ones I have, I have the old ones with two pairs of terminals), Wilson, etc... they must know something... I know, they don´t sell amps and cable... ;)

    Second, I know many people who tried it and didn´t hear a difference, they say it sounds better with one better amp than bi-amp with lesser amps, particularly people comparing the TAG 250 versus bi-amping with the 100 watts from the same brand, or even 250 for bass and 100 for mid-treble...

    So I would rather spend the money in a better amp and better cables, not to mention the extra bulk and cable runs that I want to avoid, already too much equipment anyway...

    Theoretically you could use different amps, more powerfull for bass, and more resolution for treble, but there are issues with that too, you will get integration problems, particularly phase anomalies... why bother...

    In the end, if you care to get the ultimate quality, and have time and patiente, do try, and choose what you prefer... let your ears be the judge...
     
  9. Reiner

    Reiner
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    Theoretically you could use different amps, more powerfull for bass, and more resolution for treble, but there are issues with that too, you will get integration problems, particularly phase anomalies... why bother...

    Agree, use only amps of same make and series - and check with the dealer / manufacturer that the gain is equal if using two different units (e.g. one more powerfull unit for the bass/mid and a smaller one for the highs).
     

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