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Wall mounting plasma on plasterboard . What to do?

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Buying & Building' started by rooster, Nov 8, 2004.

  1. rooster

    rooster
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    It seems i have 4 inch gap between plasterboard and outside wall which will probably be to big to mount through the plasterboard. I was thinking i could cut hole in plaster and bolt some 2inch thick hardboard to wall and then bolt plasma to this . Anybody had this problem and how did you solve it.
     
  2. alan8477

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    When I fitted my 50 inch Viera I recall the fitting instructions said that in such a situation the screws/bolts should be located into the timber studs. I was expecting to have to do this, but as it turned out I was attaching to what must be the only breeze block wall in my house.
     
  3. rooster

    rooster
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    Do you mean the wooden frame that the plasterboard is attached to? Surely it would likely that this does not match up with wall mount fixings?

    Does anyone know if their are suitable .bolts , rawl plugs or anything else that would be able to bridge the gap between plasterboard and outside wall
     
  4. dannyboy23

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    Rooster, I have the same problem and the advice I have received is to attach one side of the wall mount to a wooden stud, the other side can go direct into the plasterboard however purchase some heavy weight plaster board fixings.

    Other people have gone down this route and it has been successful. This is based on a 42 inch screen.

    D
     
  5. rooster

    rooster
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    Thx danny . Do you know if the gap was as much as 4 inches in the above successful examples. With a 4 inch gap i'm thinking i would need around about 8 inch fixings in order to get at least some purchase into wall
     
  6. dannyboy23

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    Rooster,

    not too sure on the size of the gap, sorry.

    I think the key is to get one side firmly fixed i.e. in the wooden stud.

    D
     
  7. alan8477

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    I used an Omnimount bracket, and although I am not pushing that particular make, I think it is increasingly typical that there is a fixing hole every inch or so, so you would be very unlucky not to have a locating hole available. On mine, not only were the holes at regular intervals, but they were also 'slideable' (oval). Having mounted one of these, I would not under any circumstances mount into plasterboard. Timber or brick at all four points.
     
  8. novicegeek

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    Hi. Had the same problem when I bought my panny pwd6. got someone to do it for £180.
    No Reinforcement needed, just use the right fixings and it will be secure. They did mine with those spring loaded toggle ones. My wall was a partition wall as well. No signs of it falling off yet.
     
  9. nealgs

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    I mounted our 43" Pioneer using the foloowing method:

    mounted a sheet of 4' x 2' MDF (6mm thick) to plasterboard screwing to wooden uprights using 3" course thread wood screws, then mounted mounting bracked to MDF board thru to plaster board.

    difficult to explain, but if you do a search i've a thread with a diagram showing how mounted.

    thread 1
    http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131782&highlight=nealgs

    thread 2
    http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99880

    regards
    Gary
     
  10. Tantalus

    Tantalus
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    I had a builder/joiner in looking at this. He warned me against mounting onto plasterboard obviously - I have new build timber-frame. Since my mounting location has no timber joists running up it - and just one big space which the plasma fills, he said he would have to fit some wooden struts between the two upright pieces of wood and then the plasma onto that - basically the screen will not be attached to the plasma but instead to the strut. Seems OTT but then I don't want it crashing down on my son!
     
  11. AFC

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    I mounted mine directly onto plasterboard with 8 x 10m fixings. I can't remember exactly what sort but they're all metal (not the spring loaded ones) and you drill the hole insert the whole fixing then tighten the screw which pulls the rear of the fixing into the back of the platerboard. Undo the screw, stick the plasma mounting into place and tighten the screws back up.

    I tried these fixings out on a wall mounted cupboard in a spare bedroom about 3 months before I bought my plasma and it's been fine. So, I thought, why not use the same for the plasma and hey presto it's been in situ for just over 2 months now. I think with 8 mounting screws it's safe enough.

    I did test the wall mount with some force before putting the plasma on it just to make sure.

    Good luck
     
  12. rooster

    rooster
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    Thanks for the help guys. Good diagram nealgs/ Does that not mean that your plasma juts out more than it needs to then i.e thickness of mdf. I don't think i can do it that way anyway as joists seem to be 1m apart and if i was to fix mdf to them then plasma would not cover it. I think i need to go down route of cutting hole in plasterboard and adding more wooden struts in the right place for the mount
     
  13. Rollin

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    Mines mounted on plasterboard with the fixings used above. You can get them from B and Q. I have metal studs and plasterboard wall. I think I put 2 fixings through the metal studs and about 6 more through the plasterboard. The bracket supported me pulling with all my strength and didn't move. Plasma has been up 6 months +.
     
  14. tamthetim

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    roster.............rollin's method sounds about right.....the metal fixings through plasterboard are usuallt called toggle bolts..............but you should be able to fix to 2 vertical timber partition members with wood screws.......and possibly a horizontal one if you can find it.........reason is plasterboard generally comes if 1200mm wide sheets.............so the vertical members are set to take the ends of the boards and support in between all so.........so the verts should be at 400 or 600mm centres.........look out for any signs of screw or nails covered with filler and measure the space between them to give you the centres..............or buy a detector from B&Q, argos.

    hope this helps
     
  15. Twilliams

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    Wow something I can actually give advice to while on the plasma pages. I'm a joiner by trade, and if I where spending £2000+ on a TV to hang on the wall, I certainly wouldn't put it up with the hope it stays up. plaster board fixings are all well and good and it might hang there happily for years but I wouldn't fix one up that way, its just not worth the risk. with plasterboard fixings its all about leverage. they work well with thrust that is very near to the wall so theoretically a plasma is suitable. just a bit heavy. I'm often asked to hand shelves onto stud walls for people and the first thing I ask is what's going on them if its a big row of books then the plasterboard fixings go out the window, the weight and the leverage sticking out from the walls will eventually peal the brackets off the wall.
    So what can you do. well like someone else said here, the width of the bracket should be enough that you should be able to get the bracket onto at least 1 vertical stud, that with a couple (the more the better) of Board fixings on the other side would suffice. The best way would be to use some 18mm ply/MDF which is at least a touch wider than the width of two studs more if the bracket needs extra width. and screw it to the studs with approx 3" screws. stud widths vary between 400,450 600 mm centres as a standard. but more often than not they could be anywhere. older walls may be in imperial too.For a completely invisible job then cut back the Pboard and recess into the walls the play/MDF of put extra 3*2 studs either vertical or horizontal where the bracket is to go, then re-Pboard, plasterscim and decorate... Great :laugh:
    Anything else I can help you with?....... Oh! A screw into a wooden stud is much better than a screw into a brick wall via a raw plug (in my oppion) especially over a longer term
     
  16. LCDRulz

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    Last year I was working in a Co. that had mounted a 50" on the boardroom wall. They used a puker tilting wall mount and plasterboard fixings, it stayed up for about a week, then one morning they found it smashed down on the floor with about 6 sq ft of plasterboard still firmly attached to it :eek: :eek: :laugh:

    bfn
    Roy
     
  17. rooster

    rooster
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    I can cleary see nail heads through the plasterboard running vertically in two places but they appear to be roughly 1m apart. Can't see any inbetween , doesn't meant they are not there maybe just a btter job of the skimming was done.
     
  18. iangilroy

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    I spent a few days thinking about this before giving in and getting a pedestal stand :)
     
  19. Twilliams

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    it would be ver unusual for there not be a stud inbetween a metre run, for one thing you would be able to lean on the wall and see it bend inwards, try tapping the wall, a duller sound will indicate studs behind, where a higher more holow sound is the clear space. its not a precise science mind ;)
     
  20. fuzzybee

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    I've been installing some UPVC windows and a set of French doors today in my extension and i have been using 150mm frame fixings from B & Q
    I would have thought they would do the trick especially if you fit one side of your wallmount to a wooden stud in your wall.
    One side using 75mm wood screws and the other with 8mm diamater 150mm length frame fixings IMO would be fine(they also do 200mm frame fixings)
    This way you are not relying on the plasterboard at all to hold your panel in place, if you do go this way don't overtighten the frame fixings.
    You get 16 in a pack for £8.99, whatever you do do not rely on the plasterboard to hold your panel as in the back of your mind you will always be thinking about it :smashin:
     
  21. dannyboy23

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    Fantastic, like I said earlier, one side of my mount is going in the stud and the other in board, should do a treat!

    One question, if there is a metal stud should I drill through the stud and then still use the board fixings?

    Cheers
    D
     
  22. Rollin

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    That's what I did
     
  23. Twilliams

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    :rolleyes: OOOOOh metal studs, now ya asking, dodgy! a timber stud would be screwed through the timber all the way, a metal stud is literally a few millimetres thick. I plasterboard fixing through the metal part of the stud may do the trick, but they are quite large and you would need to pilot hole the metal stud to about a 10mm diameter hole. I playboard over the stud and fix the bracket to that would probably be better, spanning three studs too if possible.
     
  24. Supersonic72

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    My limited knowledge of plasterboard walls tels me that not all walls have
    batons every 18" inch or so, is that right?

    I thought most builders used 'dot and dab' lumps of cement or something
    to hold the back of the plasterboard sheet to the breeze block????
     
  25. GazTheHat

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    I've recently mounted my Viera on a plasterboard wall. It backed onto a wardrobe, so i accessed the back of the wall by ripping down the plasterboard. There were no joists where i planned to mount, so i re-inforced the segments in between the joists and "noggins" (horizontal joist supports - i believe). I got some 18mm Plywood for those gaps. Used no more nails to stick it to the back of the plasterboard. Then, i added a lot more supporting joists in the wall, screwing to existing joists, and a couple where the wall mount screws would go. Got some 10cm bolts from B&Q and came from the front, through the plasterboard, plywood, and into the new joists. *ta-da*

    I'm no handy-andy, and it was fairly easy. :thumbsup: Costs a lot less than these people offering fitting solutions.

    Maybe in your case, try and find if there are any joists where the holes go for the wallmount. You'll be lucky if there are on both sides!!

    I'd first of all drill a wee hole through the plasterboard to measure the gap to the brick wall. If this gap is less than the measure between the part that fits to the wall and the part that fits to the tv, (mine was 60mm as i needed extension bars on the universal mount, which is otherwise 25mm) then maybe you could cut a hole in the plasterboard the size of the wall mount and mount the wall bracket directly into the brick. This would also bring your tv closer to the plasterboard wall. Just my 2p's worth...
     
  26. d0mj4y

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    I think some people have gone far too technical than necessary.

    I simply got a piece of plywood (MDF would do though) that is larger than my wall bracket, but smaller than my plasma screen. Simply by tapping the wall you can establish roughly where the vertical joists are, when you think you know where the first one is, get a screwdriver and force it through the plasterboard, it should stop about 1/2 an inch into the wall. (If you miss, it doesn't matter as it will be hidden by the Plasma/Board anyway) You can now use this spot to measure 400mm (may vary depending on age of house) either side of this hole, and you will find more joists. Now, simply fix your board to the with 4-6 screws in-line with the vertical joists.

    Now you are ready to line-up your wall bracket. Drill your first hole through the board and hang your wall-mount off a screw from that hole. (May be handy to have a friend with a spirit level at this stage) When your mount is level, simply drill a hole for a screw on the other side. This should keep your wall-mount level while you get to work on the other holes. Tighten them all up and mount your plasma.

    You'll now have a wall-mounted plasma at the expense of it protruding an extra 1/2 inch from the wall, instead of having to rip plaster off walls etc.
     
  27. burnrubber

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    What size/weight plasma was it please, Check this out http://www.avforums.com/forums/home-cinema-diy/1060463-advice-need-please-floating-wall-build-internal-plasterboard-metal-stud-wall.html

    Any ideas on the fixings?

    Ta....
     
  28. t72bogie

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    Last edited: Aug 29, 2009

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