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Wall mount installation questions!

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Buying & Building' started by Gof, Sep 5, 2004.

  1. Gof

    Gof
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    Hey guys - a quick few q's before I attempt to nail £2k to my lounge wall
    (man I'm scared)!

    Got a panny w6 and am going for the flush panny wall mount from ebay
    (taking my RS universal back unopened).

    The 42" plasma is to be installed on the wall between my house and the next
    door neighbour (the wall that joins the two houses in a semi detached
    house).
    I am a novice but from the diy I have done over the last few weeks in the
    house it is a brick/concrete wall as opposed to the plasterboard/cavity
    walls separating bedrooms etc.

    When I drill holes do I drill straight into wall or angle downwards for
    extra strength?
    What is the best fitting to buy from homebase or b&q or somewhere to ensure
    the darn thing is tight on the wall and wont move?

    Is there anything else I need (besides a drill) to get the job done or
    anything else I should know about?

    Hoping to install it one evening over the next few days - been sitting in my
    hall since Thursday and it want to be used!

    Is it easy enough to have someone conceal cables etc and replaster after the
    wall installation by taking it off the wall? Or if you are a professional
    installer in the notts/derby area and can do me a good price on hanging the
    beast email me :)

    All help fully appreciated.

    :eek:
     
  2. Dark Angel

    Dark Angel
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    If its brick use rawlbolts if its concrete use sleeve anchors, any DIY store will have them. Make sure you get them to match the bracket i.e. if it has 8mm holes in it get M8 fixings.
    I had the same concerns when mounting my plasma, a quick test is to hold on to the bracket after you have mounted it and lift your feet of the ground - if it hold you it will hold the plasma.
     
  3. Gof

    Gof
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    cool!

    I'm still shattign meself tho....
     
  4. hornydragon

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    A Spirit level, have seen a Few screens that were put up on the ****....LOL not good.
    Wall bracket has a number of holes, use almost all of them. make sure load is evenly spread over all bolts.
    If you are chasing wall for cables do so before mounting bracket as they run up and through braket.
    Lots more you can do. (conduit is cheaper than wall chasing, you can buy some very sexy half round Aluminium stuff but waste pipe cut in half and spray silver.
     
  5. Gof

    Gof
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    I like the drain pipe trunkign idea - i think I'll put it up then look for a decent cable cover or do a diy job with soem silver spray paint! Anyone found silver coloured trunking in a half decent arc for this sort of thing?
     
  6. mikeycrawford

    mikeycrawford
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    I am no DIY expert, but I wall mounted a 504HDE on the proper Pioneer bracket (a Joe Fernand Power Buy), after taking some advice from a guy at work who does a lot of external aerial/mast installations.

    The house is a new build (Wimpey) and at first I thought that must mean I have Thermalite bricks between me and next door, but it turned out to be grey concrete bricks (anyone need some Fischer Twistlock Anchors? ... a premature purchase) .

    I was advised that rawlbolts would be fine, and for the 50Kg weight, 4 x M10 would be plenty. The pioneer bracket has holes for a further 6 x M6 bolts but I was able to do a couple of chin ups with just the 4 x M10s, so have left it at that. I also attempted to pull the wall mount straight out from the wall with no success ... a good sign I hope. I drilled straight into the wall, not at an angle as this would mean that the bolt head would not sit flush with the wall mount when tightened. I needed quite a large drill bit (16mm I think) for the M10 bolt and had to purchase that at the same time as the bolts.

    There is an air gap between the concrete and the plasterboard and so I used a couple of beefy M10 washers with some M12 nuts between them on each bolt so that the wall/washers/nuts are taking the weight, rather than the plasterboard (like a homebrew spacer). Because of this airgap and plasterboard, I had to go for the longest rawlbolts that Wickes had, otherwise the 'rawl' part wouldn't be wholly in the wall.

    I needed to cut some holes in the plasterboard, big enough to get the M10 washers through onto the wall, which made a bit of a mess of the wall (not seen when the plasma is mounted, but a pain if I ever move). I was lucky in that the 4 holes lined up (more or less) with the centre of each block rather than the cement between blocks which (I assume) has less strength.

    Was still bricking (no pun intended) myself when we actually mounted the plasma on the wall. I will have to unmount it in the next few weeks in order to bury the cables, which will give me another chance for some chin-ups on the bracket to make sure everything is still OK.

    I was told that about 250 quid was the going rate to have it mounted professionally, which I am too tight to pay :blush: If it all comes tumbling down I only have myself to blame :eek:
     
  7. Gof

    Gof
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    Thanks for that - encouraging stuff to read!

    The house i live in is 30 years old. It looks liek straight brick/cement between me and next door however I guess I will know for sure when I drill! I'll keep the diy store receipt in case I have to make a return l8er.

    I will go straight in I think to have it flush against the wall.

    As you have suggested I think a chin up or two is a good idea. When my wall mount arrives tomorrow I will check the hoel size and I'll probably throw in a few extra screws for good measure.

    When you say rawl plug do you mean the plastic ones? Someone on another post mentioned expanding ones?!? Whatever that is!

    Anyway as long as it holds me I guess it'll hold a screen!
     
  8. quattro

    quattro
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    Personally i wouldn't use expanding as these could fracture the bricks, I used 10mm hex head 3" bolts into 10mm raw plugs (grey) mines solid, just make sure the holes you drill are all the correct depth just a mm or two deeper that the length of the plugs. A decent drill like a Hilti is a good idea also makes a cleaner hole
     
  9. mikeycrawford

    mikeycrawford
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  10. Gof

    Gof
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    cool! metal rawlbolts!
    I'll have my wife to help me lift it in place!
     
  11. johndonovan

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    Mikey - I wonder if you could answer a quick question for me. Had all my channels dug in wall now and will purchase 434hde in next week along with the Pioneer flat wal bracket. My question is, does the wall plate sit on the wall slightly above where the cables need to emerge or do the cables need to "thread through" the bracket. In all the pictures I've seen, it looks like the bracket sits above where the cables need to emerge from the wall, but just seeking clarification.

    Hope you can help :thumbsup:
     
  12. mikeycrawford

    mikeycrawford
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    With my 504HDE the wall bracket sits above the HDMI and power inputs so it is possible to disconnect all the cables without unmounting the screen from the wall, and I imagine it is the same with the 434HDE.

    This is with Pioneer's official flat wall mount - not a Unicol.

    I hope to bury my cables in the wall, but the HDMI and power leads are actually a fair few centimetres away from the wall and the HDMI/power sockets are very close to the bottom of the screen. I mention this because if you mount your screen fairly high up, its possible that you may be able to see the cables as they run back in towards the wall. I will post a pic tomorrow - that should explain it a bit better.
     
  13. johndonovan

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    Thanks Mikey - look forward to your reply. :smashin:
     
  14. mikeycrawford

    mikeycrawford
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    As promised (awkward angles to photograph) ... Hopefully the first two attachments show how little slack there is to play with on the cables.
     

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  15. johndonovan

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    Thanks for the photos. I must say, I'm quite surpised at how far out from the wall the plasma sits. I guess it also means that there is very little tolerance between the vertical height the cables emerge from the wall and the conection height in order to avoid the cables being visible (this would kind of negate the hard work of burying the cables). How pliant are the mains and video cables. Could they emerge from a hole in the wall and form an "S" shape into the connector or do they have to come straight out of the wall and almost vertical into the connectors.

    Any advice welcome for forthcoming self-install. :eek:
     
  16. steveing64

    steveing64
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    Buying my pw6 tomorrow with wall bracket what need to know how does the bracket connect to the screen as i want to fix near the ceiling in an alcove so if it lifts on how much space do i need
     
  17. hornydragon

    hornydragon
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    how high? whose bracket??? Panny bracket is 4" minimum i would leave, can possibly check, but it varies with bracket, Also i wouldnt suggest putting it that high on a flat bracket. screen should be eye level at normal viewing position perhaps a little higher, dont belive me either spend 2 hours looking at the space on the wall where you think you want and see how your neck feels after a while, or easier and less boring option is to go to cinema and sit in front 3 rows for a film.......... a bedroom is the only place i would even consider a display that high and then only a tilting bracket.

    Unless you live in a hobbit house that is LOL
     
  18. steveing64

    steveing64
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    was going to use the bracket that alistair at av supplies the reason it so near the ceiling is thatin my livingroom at bottom end where going to put screen the ceiling drops about 1foot so from floor to ceiling is 7ft looking to place screen so top of screnn is 5ft 8 bfrom floor to topn screen
     
  19. quattro

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    I had mine mounted above a fire roughly 5'8" to the top of the screen which i soon relised was too high viewing from around 9' away, soar neck and just wasn't natual viewing. The good thing with the AV sales bracket is the holes are equally spaced so i simply dropped it down to the next hole roughly 6" which is now at an ideal hight IMO. Alot also would have to do with the viewing distance
     
  20. FergusSmith

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    how big a hole did you make for the washers and how did you tighten up the nuts? going to try your method as i got a quote of £600 for full instalation told the guy to bolt going to try it all my self and yes i am bricking it.
     
  21. stevearliss

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    I am about to order a 42PHD7 from av-sales and are intending to hang it on a plasterboard wall. Before, you all gasp in horror, the wall hasn't been built yet and so I intend to attach it to a couple of hefty studs. In order to position the studs to provide the maximum number of attachments can anybody tell me how far apart the vertical fixing slots on the wall bracket are. Or if anybody else has done something similar, any advise on size screws etc.
     
  22. Kier

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    The holes on the back of the AV-Sales bracket are 50cm apart.
     
  23. stevearliss

    stevearliss
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    Cheers; I've just found the Installation file on the web-site; unfortunately I don't think the bracket is going to be suitable.

    I was hoping to get something more like the panny TYWK42PV1 which gives a lot more versatility (long fixing slots all around the edge of the bracket). How can they justify £350 for sheet of metal? It isn't even tilting!

    The trouble is I need to sort it out before the wall gets built; which should be very soon.
     
  24. Supersonic72

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    Being in the same boat as you were just a few weeks ago, I followed the 'belt and braces' method...

    I obtained a thick 18mm sheet of MDF which was just about 3 inch wider all around than the AV Sales tiltable mount and firstly sunk four big 4 inch screws & rawlplugs into the wall firstly. That holds like buggery. I have a external wall with plasterboard stuck with dot and dab, so theres a fair amount of void between the plaster and the brick....

    Then I used some B & Q window&door screws which are 90mm long with matching rawlplugs, the ones window installers use to attach them to the brickwork. I only used 90mm depth as that is as long as I could drill, and they are M6 size. If I had bigger drill bits, I'd have got the next size up which is 110mm and M8, or even 110mm and M12, they are real solid looking beasts.

    I have a Panny PW7, so its in the region of 35kg in total so with a total of ten screws holding the weight,, the wood is holding the downwards shearing force better than the plasterboard, and the weight by each screw must only be around 5kg each (multiply by the weight away from the wall, maybe 10/15kg a screw.
     

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