urge to build

stegalv

Active Member
i built a sub about 5yrs ago so have forgotten everthing, do i still have to buy parts from america? i:e parts express.anyone know average cost of delivery?
which driver and amp, (plate or stand alone amp)
want it to match or better monolith + svs 2000 which i was considering buying.
any good plans for the box.
 

MemX

Well-known Member
Budget? (c.£500?)

Size of room (dimensions)?

Space available for the sub?

Listening habits (music / movies / 'family friendly' volume / Reference-level movies)?

Do you have an EQ solution already? (AVR DSP, miniDSP, antiMode, etc)
 

stegalv

Active Member
sorry told you i had forgotten everything.
6x3mtrs, 95% tv/films,no family to grumble, loud as i want to.
audio level usually -10 -15db level on yamaha 3010 but just purchased the 3050,
no other eq.
sub at present is where it is in photo or it could go behind couch.at a push could go against side walls or used as a table i suppose.
up to £500 but i like value for money,so would like to buy parts that would match or improve a bit on the monoliths +.a cost to do the job really
i would like a couple of pointers to different amps and speakers and what could be expected from them and best place to buy,seen a couple of threads using speakers from car subs?
sealed or ported.thanks
 

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MemX

Well-known Member
I have loads to do at work before I leave so can't suggest anything DIY straight off, but check out the SVS PB12/Plus 2 in the Classifieds for £650 as a quick and easy and great option - I have had one and the output is insane, it would beat a Monolith up and take its lunch money :D lol
 

stegalv

Active Member
Might have been interested,bit more than I wanted to pay but a 400 mile round trip a bit too far.
 

stegalv

Active Member
probably up to 20" high 21" wide 22"deep.
a bit smaller if possible.
is it the quality or size of speaker that would allow a smaller box if you wanted to get 20hz or below,or is it all about the volume.
the reason i ask is when looking at the size of commercial subs they are smaller than the one i already have,but they go lower.
 

mattkhan

Distinguished Member
commercial subs generally use built in EQ to bring up the bottom end, you can do the same of course

it seems you have ~4.5-5ft3 to play with. A SI HST18 would fit nicely but is outside your budget (and is import only), the Dayton UM18-22 probably wants a bigger box but is in budget and available in the EU (UM18-22), another dayton (RSS460HO-4) driver is another option which is slightly cheaper again and I think might be happier in a smaller box.

an inuke is the default choice for a budget sub amp, ~£200 for that + ~£250-300 for a driver and then the box and you have a decent sub.

I think @neo_2009 posted somewhere that had the BMS 18n862 for a fairly cheap price so that's another option too, perhaps search through his posts to find it.
 

stegalv

Active Member
Thanks matt,helpful info.
Would that be ported or sealed?
So only 18" speaker why not 12 or 15".
What difference would 18" £100 speaker make,seen threads using Car sub speakers.
Not doubting your advice just want to understand differences.
 

neo_2009

Well-known Member
I think @neo_2009 posted somewhere that had the BMS 18n862 for a fairly cheap price so that's another option too
The BMS is 423£ in the UK BMS distributor: lean-business

You can find everything of the BMS in data-bass.com
Some driver photos here.
A comparison between the DIY BMS and the SVS PB-1000 (should be more or less equivalent to the Monolith) here.

I opted for sealed, but you can find more information of a ported BMS here.

The BMS is definitively a much higher quality driver than the SI or the Dayton, and my subjective opinion is that the sound quality should be a step above most of car sub speakers.
 

mattkhan

Distinguished Member
So only 18" speaker why not 12 or 15".
output at the low end is displacement limited so might as well go for a bigger driver if you can fit it in

What difference would 18" £100 speaker make
ultimately it depends on the driver but building a high quality driver (i.e. behaviour remains linear for longer == more clean output) costs money
 

stegalv

Active Member
Thanks for your time,one more thing,why do people use twin coil 2 ohm speakers.
Do they wire them in series to make them 4 ohm? But why not just buy 4 ohm in the first place.
 

mattkhan

Distinguished Member
Thanks for your time,one more thing,why do people use twin coil 2 ohm speakers.
Do they wire them in series to make them 4 ohm? But why not just buy 4 ohm in the first place.
it just gives you more options over how to wire them up
 

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