upvc door hinges - tilting

HadHa

Standard Member
I have a double patio upvc door which needs some adjustment. One of them are perfectly level with the frame whereas the other appears to be tilting, see alignment pic.

I wanted to attempt adjusting it on the door hinges. Prying off the top and bottom covers reveals some screws but having done some rotations I still can't tell what is the correct screw or way to rotate.. I'm a bit worried about continuing screwing at these without knowing what I am doing.

Do anyone know what I'm looking at on the top panel off image? I can't seem to find any product online which has the same screws as mine.
My expectation would be that the leftmost (big) screw controls the height of the door and that the other two, smaller screws somehow control the tilt.
I also don't really know how to best do this: Do I screw all 3 hinges on a door together half a turn at a time or just the one hinge a half turn at a time?

Any help appreciated - this is all new to me.
 

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lee1980

Well-known Member
Ours are very similar to this internally on front door, same issue needs adjusting as door is hard to pull to, be interested if find out anything!
Usually pretty good at things like this but nothing tried worked.
 

HadHa

Standard Member
Thanks so much - thought I had gone through them all but must have missed this one.
Seems like this video should explain how to fix this.. but I don't quite get it.


From 5:30 it looks like all I need to do is rotate the 'cam' (middle screw) and then using the allen key on either the top or bottom in order to tilt it whilst rotating both would move the whole thing?
Not sure how the whole thing would be moving since there are 3 hinges holding the whole door in place but I'm probably not understanding properly how this is attached..!
 

brunation

Well-known Member
By tilt do you mean the doors are not vertically plumb? There is a gap at the top or bottom?
If so, is the frame plumb?
ETA:
Re-reading your post agian it sounds like horizontal alignment is out - so if you put a spirit level across both doors at the bottom, they won't be true/level.
 
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lee1980

Well-known Member
Front door here, with hinges inside.
I need to try some with the vid going to but not sure where ours is out, it looks level etc but imagine over time its dropped some, is why its hard to pull door to on handle.
Currently wife is slamming door to pull it to, so need to do something!
 

lee1980

Well-known Member
I live next to a door slammer. ****s the lot of you!
Lol, she struggles to just pull it in lightly to due to dodgy wrists and joints. Its used to just require a light pull on handle to close then lift up to lock. No one else hears its just the whole wall shakes!
If i cant sort may have to pay a door expert!
Sorry for hijacking thread HadHa.
 

HadHa

Standard Member
By tilt do you mean the doors are not vertically plumb? There is a gap at the top or bottom?
If so, is the frame plumb?
ETA:
Re-reading your post agian it sounds like horizontal alignment is out - so if you put a spirit level across both doors at the bottom, they won't be true/level.
Thanks for reading and answering :) I should have been more precise, will update 1st post as well.

They are double patio doors. One of them is perfectly level, hits the frame well and as a result insulates well. Now that the colder weather kicked in I realized the other has a big gap and a part of the door completely misses the rubber where it's suppose to hit and form a seal. The first half is fine, the second half of the door partly and eventually completely misses. I can actually see the outside through the gap it creates at a very specific angle if I'm on my knees in front of the door.

See attached image. This is the doors meeting in the middle. As you can see the left is significantly lower than the right.

I wanted to 'tilt' the entire door via the hinges as I expected that to be possible.
 

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brunation

Well-known Member
The first half is fine, the second half of the door partly and eventually completely misses. I can actually see the outside through the gap it creates at a very specific angle if I'm on my knees in front of the door.
Haven't watched the video again so .... my recollection is the big cam is the compression but this would be the last adjustment I'd make.

I'd check the hinges are plumb and if so ... ok, had to re-watch the video ... from 4:30. You want the door centered properly so you're doing horizontal adjustment and assuming hinges are plumb adjust from the top down, always checking the door locks securely. Once that is done it seems to me that compression adjustment needs to be done.

At all times just record how many turns you make and on which hinge and that way you just reverse it back to the warped state should you make a mistake :)

ETA:

Photos when fixed would be nice :smashin:
 
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IronGiant

Moderator
To my simple brain I'm thinking that if you have 3 hinges nothing much will happen if you adjust one hinge as the other two will hold the door in the original position. So I'd be tempted to detach the middle hinge, adjust the door using the top and bottom hinges and then adjust the central hinge if and how much required. Or am I over thinking this?
 

HadHa

Standard Member
from 4:30. You want the door centered properly so you're doing horizontal adjustment and assuming hinges are plumb adjust from the top down, always checking the door locks securely.

Photos when fixed would be nice :smashin:

Life got in the way so havent been able to get around to this but thanks for your replies. A bit worried about this task and needing a new door entirely in the end so very happy to get some guidance.

Am trying to get this done on Saturday but wanted to sanity check now that I seem to understand how these magic hinges work. I think you are right that the horizontal adjustment may be the key here. Here's a crude and exaggerated view of my doors from the outside. It seems sensible to expect the bottom hinge and middle hinge horizontal alignment needing to push the door further out towards the other door and that should hopefully fix it.
1634850403829.png


In the end of the video (6:20) I can see there's two other screws. I can't seem to understand which of these I need to take out to remove the sash cover. One is for the cover and the other is an 'anti lift pin' apparently. Any thoughts? Trying to screw on as few things as possible to avoid doing unnecessary work and damage.🤔

1634848905459.png


Thanks so much for all the help.
 

HadHa

Standard Member
Ended up doing this today as there are some sunshine coming through.

1634903143771.png


So job done, right? Not quite..
The outside door seal is hitting properly. I can no longer see outside through the gap in the door.
The inside door seal however is aligned to hit my door all the way around but the seal is not actually touching the door all the way around. If I pull the door towards me I can see the gap goes away but I use some force. Once I let go it 'falls back out just enough'. It may be that the outside seals are also having a similar issue, difficult to say really.

It's much more pronounced on the right door than the left door (from the inside - the drawing above is looking at the door from the outside so reversed).

divider bottom.jpeg


When shining a flashlight on you can more clearly see the gap
with flashlight.jpeg


This gap is big in the middle and gets smaller and smaller towards the edges of the door, but it lasts for about 2/3rds of the way.

Anyone able to help direct me from here? No clue how to fix this.
 

brunation

Well-known Member
Just to confirm that the door is properly locked (the sliders are fully engaged)?

The inside door seal however is aligned to hit my door all the way around but the seal is not actually touching the door all the way around. If I pull the door towards me I can see the gap goes away but I use some force.
Assuming the seal was installed properly then you have an offset issue i.e it's like a shim under each hinge cause the door to sit away from the seal?

I'd have to look at the video again. If you open the door so it's at 90° to the frame then that gap between the door and the frame is what you want to reduce.

Now, how to do that ....
 

brunation

Well-known Member
So at 5.55 it talks about compression.

I wonder if you have to remove the anti-lift grub screw mentioned at the end? That would be the last part of the install and so working backwards you may have to take that out.
 

HadHa

Standard Member
Just to confirm that the door is properly locked (the sliders are fully engaged)?


Assuming the seal was installed properly then you have an offset issue i.e it's like a shim under each hinge cause the door to sit away from the seal?

I'd have to look at the video again. If you open the door so it's at 90° to the frame then that gap between the door and the frame is what you want to reduce.

Now, how to do that ....
Thank you so much for helping further!

What do you mean about the sliders being fully engaged? When I close the door and lift the handle to move the sliders I am no longer able to push the door open which to me tells me they are working as intended. This DOES pull the door much tighter than it otherwise is, but not tight enough to actually fix the gap.

'Assuming the seal was installed properly then you have an offset issue i.e it's like a shim under each hinge cause the door to sit away from the seal?' Not 100% sure what you mean.
Each of the hinges does have a little gap between them and the wall as seen here.
WhatsApp Image 2021-10-22 at 13.48.59.jpeg

However I don't think this is the issue since the seal is in contact near the wall. See diagram below. From the inside then doors are closed and the sliders and locks are engaged helping firm the door up further, it's like this:

1634907249822.png
 

brunation

Well-known Member
What do you mean about the sliders being fully engaged?
I assumed the sliders came down vertically to engage in a slot.
This DOES pull the door much tighter than it otherwise is, but not tight enough to actually fix the gap.
I meant as an offset i.e. the door was projected out away from the frame - ignore it anyway as it's confusing.

However I don't think this is the issue since the seal is in contact near the wall.
I can only suggest adjust the compression for the moment.
 

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