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Ultra ATA133 or SATA

Discussion in 'Camcorders, Action Cams & Video Editing Forum' started by thebrummy_one, Mar 7, 2005.

  1. thebrummy_one

    thebrummy_one
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    Folks,
    I know this isn't strickly proper to this forum however, as it's for my editing PC, and you guys are extremely knowledgeable :smashin: I'm posting it here.
    What is the better spec'ed HDD, Ultra ATA133 or Serial ATA? I'm sticking in a second HDD as I'm experiencing dropped frames and having done everything else recommended on one of Mark's replys to this problem, seperate HDDs is the only thing left.
    I have noticed a considerable slow down of my system anyway since setting it up in October. I have defragged and tried to clean up the drives as much as possible, but it is still ugly and slow.
    I have the following:
    P4 3.2mhz HT technology
    1gig RAM
    250gig HDD (partitioned into 40gig/200gig)
    P4C800 deluxe motherboard
    9800 ATI Radeon graphics card
    NEC 2510 DVD burner
    Sony DVD rom

    I do feel with these specs. I shouldn't experience dropped frames but do. :(
    with Sony Vegas being more unforegiving than other programs.
     
  2. MarkE19

    MarkE19
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    Of the 2 interfaces SATA is faster, but both are plenty good enough for video capture & editing.
    SATA has the advantage of useing a smaller cable that allows better air flow around the PC case which helps to keep the internal temp down.

    As for dropped frames, I canm't remember exactly what else I have advised you in the past, so here are my normal recomendations.
    Stop all non essentiall background programs such as anti virus and screen saver/power save modes. The easiest way to stop the background progs is with a free program called 'EndItAll2'. Have a search on the internet for it, but if you can't find it PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
    Never let the disc get anywhere near to full.
    Make sure 'DMA' is enabled.

    Mark.
     
  3. BadAss

    BadAss
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    Also run all HDD's in the same format NTFS.
     
  4. thebrummy_one

    thebrummy_one
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    Thanks Mark,
    I will PM you my e-mail address cos all the seach results comeback saying this program is no longer shareware.
    On the DMA front, I'm having difficulty getting to the place where to change it. I've tried using device manager, and on the 'resources' tab, the 'use automatic setting' check box is greyed out. as is the settings button.
    I've tried altering the BIOS that is currently set to 'auto', but this has no effect.
    One of the accessory programs in the Nero suite I have on my PC is a system info type thing, and it is showing 'DMA' is off on this disk.
    Could it be because I have the disk partitioned? Having read about DMA, I am quite sure this is the dropped frames culprit.
    BadAss,
    Thanks for your input. I will ensure when I bung in the new drive to format both as NTFS.
     
  5. MarkE19

    MarkE19
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    brummy, to enable DMA:

    Open 'Control Panel'
    double click 'System'
    click the 'Hardware' tab
    click the 'Device Manager' button
    click the '+' symbol nexzt to 'IDE/ADAPTI controllers'
    double click on the IDE channel the drive is connected to to open the 'properties' window
    click the 'Advanced Settings' tab
    set 'Transfer Mode' for the device to 'DMA if available'

    and that's all there is to it!!!

    Mark.
     
  6. thebrummy_one

    thebrummy_one
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    Thing is, Thanks how it is set up. Does this mean DMA is not available on my PC?? Do you think it is to do with my disk being partitioned?
     
  7. MarkE19

    MarkE19
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    DMA is enabled on my 'video only' drive and that has 2 partitions, so no that can't be the problem.
    Is the HDD connected with a full spec ATA HDD cable or a cheaper CD-ROM IDE cable?

    Mark.
     
  8. BadAss

    BadAss
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    At the minute my CD-ROM seems to switch from DMA to PIO even though my settings stay the same, so I have similar problems with my setting even though DMA is set to auto. I use the same make but seperate cables for CD-ROM and HDD. I never have a problem though with my HDD's which always stay on UDMA mode 5.

    When you say the option is greyed out what do you mean because your HDD is plug and play and cannot be changed manualy very easily.
     
  9. BadAss

    BadAss
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    Hmmm, just got my CD-ROM back on to a DMA channel, heres how I did it.

    Make sure your HDD's are on the Primary IDE 1 port by opening the case and taking a quick look. Make Sure your CD-ROM is on the Secondary IDE 2 port.

    Then go into Device manager and you should see either 1 or 2 Primary IDE channels and 1 or 2 Secondary IDE channels. Each channel carrys two devices on each cable.

    So your primary HDD should be on Primary IDE channel 1, Device 0

    A second HDD should be on primary IDE channel 1, Device 1

    Your CD-Rom should be on Secondary IDE channel 2, Device 0

    And the second Secondary IDE channel 2 should be empty, Device 1

    Now turn off your PC unplug the power cables to the second HDD and CD-ROM on turn back on.

    Go back into device manager and your HDD should be allocated a DMA channel.

    Unistall all other channels at this point while in device manager.

    Turn your PC off and reconnect your second HDD onto the same cable as the first HDD and turn back on.

    Go into the control panel and add hardware this should re-install your second HDD on the second primary channel.

    Go into Device manager and see.

    Do the same for the CD-ROM drive.

    If this fails then yikes I don't have any more advice for you. Doing this just allocated my CD-ROM a DMA channel so It does work.

    Good luck.
     
  10. overkill

    overkill
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    One last thing Badass, what PSU do you have? If the beast isn't getting enough grunt, it will slow down the GPU and CPU during peak demand.
     
  11. BadAss

    BadAss
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    I think it's a 350watt PSU.
     
  12. BadAss

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    I would check the HDD speed too. Mine all spin at 7200 rpm.

    Just reading the original post again and I can remember times when I had dropped frames and it was when I had the System HDD formatted in Fat32 and Capture partition in NTFS it coursed all sorts of problems.
     
  13. thebrummy_one

    thebrummy_one
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    Mark, The current drive is a SATA with it's own cable.

    Badass, This could well be the problem. This is how I have mine set at present.
    I'm just waiting for my new hdd to arrive (tomorrow hopefully) Then it's strip down time with the PC. I will probably only be logging on with my works PC in future!!! :rolleyes:
     
  14. overkill

    overkill
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    Not enough for a well specced system. Check that to make sure, but with the system specs Brummy posted you need at least a 440-480 watt PSU with plenty of amps on the 12volt rail. The VGA card in particular is a big sucker of juice.

    Try and pick up either an Antec, Enermax, or a Tagan, or one of the quality (cheaper) alternatives such as Thermaltakes range. Keep an eye on ebay, the game heads dump PSU's like no-ones business as their system demand more and more power.

    Just a thought...........
     
  15. thebrummy_one

    thebrummy_one
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    Overkill, I've got a 350 supply too. Do you recomend I upgrade this to something beefier?
     
  16. overkill

    overkill
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    For your specs I would say yes. Something quality like an Antec 380 watt PSU is about as low, power wise, as I would go. There is an excellent article somewhere, breaking down the various components usage of both volts and amps. The guy who wrote it recommends a PSU with at least 430 watts output, with good amperage on the 12volt rail, for a modern P4 or Athlon XP system with a GF4 TI4600 / Rad 9600 upwards. If I can find it I will link it here. Both Toms and Anantech have done reasonable reviews on the REAL output of PSU's over the last couple of years.

    A lot of problems with 'quirky performance' is down to a naff or underpowered PSU.

    Hint:Don't by a Q-tec! They have a bad habit of catching fire............... :eek:
     
  17. thebrummy_one

    thebrummy_one
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    Thanks for the tip :smashin: I was looking on ebay and Q-tec's are pretty much the majority of PSUs :thumbsdow
     
  18. BadAss

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  19. overkill

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    :eek: Well, if that doesn't give enough grunt Badass, nothing will! :D If it's not just the PSU, then don't worry. With that much clout you can upgrade anything else with ease! :thumbsup:

    Let us know how you get on with it! You can check it's immediate performance by seeing how close it gets to expected voltage on each rail. Just use a mobo checker and monitor it when using power hungry apps. If it's as good as the price tag suggests, there should be NO wild fluctuations in the rails. The CPU and GPU don't like them wild fluctuations.............. ;)

    Our three Pc's have:

    Mine; Antec Trupower 480 watt.
    Her indoors'; Enermax 430 watt (needs upgrading as it can't cope with the graphics and image manipulation stuff the wife does)
    Oldests pc; Thermaltake Purepower 480 watt
     
  20. BadAss

    BadAss
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    Now the girlfriend will get a nice free upgrade from my old PIII 600, with the my old PSU (once the new one arrives) my old CPU P4 2.4g and MB. Will she be greatfull? I dont think so.

    I will let you know how I get on once its all fitted, I was so tempted to get a new case at the same time.

    http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_1075.html
     

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