UHD Player Power Leads

Ruby

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The option of purchasing a second-hand Panasonic UB820 UHD player is available to me - but it's missing its power lead. I'm currently using an old LG K8500 UHD player. Are the power leads from different manufacturers the same i.e. would I be able to user my LG player's power lead with the Panasonic player?
 
It's just a figure of 8 cable, they're all standard just check fuse probably 3a
 
If your going to buy a replacement probably worth trying to look for a thicker, lower impedance version, some can be very 'weedy' whilst they will work fine the higher ampage ones are better for video and audio performance. (not a must, but if you are buying a replacement)
 
If your going to buy a replacement probably worth trying to look for a thicker, lower impedance version, some can be very 'weedy' whilst they will work fine the higher ampage ones are better for video and audio performance. (not a must, but if you are buying a replacement)

That’s the great cable debate. The cable will be rated at 3A any more and the actual connector is not rated for any more than that.

Any designer that is relying on that should be using a C13
 
Ah, the great cable debate. It all comes down to personal choice and experience.

Me, I tend to use shielded mains cables. They helped when I was having some interference issues when I was living in a flat. I also fit ferrite chokes.

As for signal leads, nothing that special. I always use Amazon Basics 4K HDMI cables as they work a treat. Bargain basement optical cables work. Analogue cables do make a difference, in my experience, but digital being digital, the data either gets there or it doesn't.
 
Me, I tend to use shielded mains cables. They helped when I was having some interference issues when I was living in a flat. I also fit ferrite chokes.

Are there any shielded 2 core figure of 8 cables, out of interest?
 
If your going to buy a replacement probably worth trying to look for a thicker, lower impedance version, some can be very 'weedy' whilst they will work fine the higher ampage ones are better for video and audio performance. (not a must, but if you are buying a replacement)

How does that work then?
 
I think the reality is there can and often is a difference between working with some compromise and working with less or no compromise. Cables rarely are significant performance reduction but can and do degrade performance in some cases. Ive not yet spent very much money on better cables, but they are part of the signal and associated chains. Unfortunately the perception that all digital is the same is Alas not true. Changing the power supply on my Panasonic 9000 made a notable difference to the picture, not something I was expecting to looking for (it was done to improve the audio)
 
How does that work then?

Everything will work, but improving the stability of the power supply and avoiding any restrictions makes sense. Improving the mains to the plug and the quality of the earthing also helps
 
Restrictions is figurative, adding impedance is a dynamic restriction and damps the response to a degree. Or might do
 
I’m not fighting any corner here. Many say all digital is the same all amps of the same power are the same, etc. But most who do have never A-B’d, had or sometimes heard a high performing system. No angle with that comment by the way
 
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I remember having a device with figure of 8 connector in one orientation there was tingling feeling to metal case,.that went away when you flipped the figure of 8 connector
 
I remember having a device with figure of 8 connector in one orientation there was tingling feeling to metal case,.that went away when you flipped the figure of 8 connector

There might have been an electrical fault with that device. However, you can still detect which is the live cable and where a neutral has been reversed in AC wiring with the right equipment. While it doesn’t matter in some equipment then in the scenario you have it would do
 
you can find photos of the things online:

1652392910136.png

It only requires 31 Watts of Power, which:

P/V=I (Power/Voltage=Amperes)
31/230=0.13 Amperes, a far far cry from 3 Amperes

1652393151269.png
 
Are there any shielded 2 core figure of 8 cables, out of interest?
Yes, I use Mark Grant figure of eight cables where I can, one on my UB820. There are some other cheaper variants available.

At the risk of drifting off topic briefly, I use shielded mains cables and ferrite chokes based on my experience. Some years ago, when I was living in a flat, my hi-fi system was plagued with mains hum. I started with ferrite chokes, which helped a little. Screened mains cables, Tacima, as I recall, helped further, but what finally fixed it was an Isotek mains conditioner.

Since then I’ve stuck with what I know, which of course where I live now might be overkill. Ferrite chokes are cheap to try, and if you’re handy, making your own screened mains cables is straight forward enough. For example, when wiring up a filtered mains block recently I used Supra screened cable. My main system is connected to an Olsen Sounds Fantastic 8-way power strip.

I don’t subscribe to the Russ Andrews type of nonsense, for example putting your cables on wooden pucks, but I do believe, based on my experiences, that some gentle attention to mains cabling is important. Many if us understand the problems that HDMI cables can cause if they’re too close to TV aerial cables, for example.

In the days of analogue, signal cables definitely could make a difference to the sound, input and speaker alike. In the digital age, no. As I said before, the data either gets there or it doesn’t. Decent shielding is important though.

As for the post that lead to this diversion, start with a bog standard figure of eight cable. If it works, job done. No point spending any more.
 
Mod comment.

Any more detailed replies about cables will now be deleted. It's not the right Forum and such conversations will always disappear down a rabbit hole and bog down the thread.
 

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