Question TuffCab - advice needed

RickyTip

Active Member
Hi all,

I have recently built a DIY subwoofer as a bit of a tester for a 10 inch sub I have and also a dual opposed 2x12 inch one for a friend.

I have designed and built many car audio subs before but they were a lot easier to finish as they were carpeted which hides no end of sins.

I have ordered some Tuffcab pro and some rollers as recommended on here as it looks easy to use.

Does anyone have any tips on applying it?

Do I have to seal the MDF?
How about the edges which generally show through the paint different to the plain face?
Do you apply an undercoat? If so what do you use?
How do you fill the screw holes? I have used car filler in the past but I have read that tuffcab doesn't stick to this?
How many coats do you apply?

Sorry for the questions but I cant think of a better place to ask :)

Ohh and while I am here, I will be using a BK plate amp in the box. What do you recommend to seal the amp to the box? It didn't come with any sealing strip etc.

Thanks

Ricky
 

markymiles

Distinguished Member
I've used Tuff cab a few times now on my subs. It's recommended by them just to paint straight onto mdf, without any undercoat. This certainly works, but I had the best results ie better coverage of the ends and screw holes by applying a couple of coats of Zinnser Bin first.

In terms of number of coats that's up to you. The more coats the darker it becomes. 2-3 will be just fine.

This video shows the best technique to use for application of Duratex which is very similar to tuffcab:



Someone else will hopefully come along and suggest the best filler to use. I think Isopon was recommended a while back and I briefly tried it:

Davids ISOPON P38 Easy Sand 250ml

The finish was super smooth, but took too long for my liking. I just used easifill on mine.
 
Last edited:

markymiles

Distinguished Member

mattkhan

Distinguished Member
to the OP, fwiw I have used tuffcab pro once. I used no primer, some random wood filler (no idea which one, just generic wood filler) and no screws. I used a whole load of v light coats (7? 8?) with a short drying spell inbetween. Results were just fine for a sub even with my crap roller work, it's pretty forgiving stuff really. Obviously if your expectations are higher than mine then take someone else's advice!!

for sealing, you can get gasket tape from various places or use something like rope caulk, any old stuff will do really.
 

Ringnut

Distinguished Member
FWIW I managed to get this finish on my first attempt using a roller on a bare mdf surface that had only been lightly sanded. I just followed the advice in the video, however I didn't have to cover up any screw holes though.

TC3.jpg


TC1.jpg


TC2.jpg


TC4.jpg
 

RickyTip

Active Member
Thanks for all the advice :)

I am going to give it a go today

Do our think foam draught excluded will work as a seal?

Thanks

Ricky
 

markymiles

Distinguished Member
Thanks for all the advice :)

I am going to give it a go today

Do our think foam draught excluded will work as a seal?

Thanks

Ricky
For round the edges of the driver cutout?

I did that once works ok. You can use gasket tapes which are probably a better seal.
 

RickyTip

Active Member
I have ordered some 4 mm neoprene rubber tape for the seal :)

One other question, do you like the walls of a ported enclosure and if so what with?

Cheers

Ricky
 

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