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Trinnov Altitude 16/32 Owners Thread

Manmc

Active Member
This thread is a very refreshing idea for Trinnov owners / fans . Next to no online help available apart from manual so any practical ideas or guidelines people may have will be much appreciated .
Trinnov are also doing their bit in these times too Trinnov Webinar

Its a learning curve worth taking :O)

~M~
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Hi Shane, hope all well. Sorry I just saw your post now. I don't believe you can passthrough when the Trinnov is in the "off" status as it is like a PC if you like. Once it's off it's off so unfortunately I don't believe this can be done. As @Mick Roberts I also only use for Audio via HDMI.

All the best :thumbsup:
Hi Mehmet,
all is good thanks and very much enjoying the flexibility of the Trinnov :thumbsup:.

I am going to be a "Brave Boy" and attempt a calibration of my own shortly :D

Just in case anyone is interested, i have contacted Antoine, and it isn't possible to do HDMI pass through, which to be honest is what i expected. So will change my connection for Sky Q to go direct to the TV rather than through the Trinnov and see which is the best way to route the audio. As i don't have an Atmos setup, i'm not sure if optical out from Sky Q is all i need or indeed the best way to do this?

Whilst i'm talking about the "Routing" does anyone have any recommendations for my Oppo 205?
Currently this is connected via HDMI 2 to the Trinnov, from the Oppo HDMI (Main), would i be better running Oppo direct to the TV and using the Oppo (Audio only) HDMI to the Trinnov?

One other question for fellow owners, when you save a config/preset etc, is the time set to CET by default? Mine is, apparently the only way i can change this, is to go into the BIOS of the motherboard and change it there!
 

mkohman

Well-known Member
Hi Mehmet,
all is good thanks and very much enjoying the flexibility of the Trinnov :thumbsup:.

I am going to be a "Brave Boy" and attempt a calibration of my own shortly :D

Just in case anyone is interested, i have contacted Antoine, and it isn't possible to do HDMI pass through, which to be honest is what i expected. So will change my connection for Sky Q to go direct to the TV rather than through the Trinnov and see which is the best way to route the audio. As i don't have an Atmos setup, i'm not sure if optical out from Sky Q is all i need or indeed the best way to do this?

Whilst i'm talking about the "Routing" does anyone have any recommendations for my Oppo 205?
Currently this is connected via HDMI 2 to the Trinnov, from the Oppo HDMI (Main), would i be better running Oppo direct to the TV and using the Oppo (Audio only) HDMI to the Trinnov?

One other question for fellow owners, when you save a config/preset etc, is the time set to CET by default? Mine is, apparently the only way i can change this, is to go into the BIOS of the motherboard and change it there!
Hi Shane,

Glad everything is going well and I am pleased your taking that step to carry out your first calibration. Good luck and let us know how you get on :thumbsup:
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Hi Shane,

Glad everything is going well and I am pleased your taking that step to carry out your first calibration. Good luck and let us know how you get on :thumbsup:
Thanks Mehmet :thumbsup:

Just out of interest, did you contact Antoine about the suggestion of incorporating a laser pointer into the 3D Calibration mic?

I've been searching the web for some sort of adaptor ring that you could fit to the bottom of the mic that has a laser built in.
 

mkohman

Well-known Member
No worries Shane. With regards to the calibration, I strongly suggest you take the first measurement in the middle seat, then the right and finally the left seat.

In reality the order shouldn't matter as you can add weight to whichever seat you prefer the most and select that as reference :)

With regards to the laser I haven't had a chance to ask as yet but I will do and let you know the answer. Your idea is a very good one :) let me know if you do find anything..
 
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Ringnut

Distinguished Member
In reality the order shouldn't matter as you can add weight to whichever seat you prefer the most and select that as reference
That was my understanding. I don't think the order matters at all given that you can stipulate whichever measuring point is the MLP (Reference point) preset anyway. I.e. preset 1 can use the middle seat as the MLP, preset 2 can use the left seat and so on.

Reference point.jpg
 
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mkohman

Well-known Member
That was my understanding. I don't think the order matters at all given that you can stipulate whichever measuring point is the MLP (Reference point) preset anyway. I.e. preset 1 can use the middle seat as the MLP, preset 2 can use the left seat and so on.

View attachment 1273490
Absolutely correct, however I personally always like to start from the middle (centre) seat when taking measurements before moving onto any other positions :)

@fatboy frank how did you get on with your first calibration? I hope it all went well :)

I also got a chance to ask about "why no laser light beam" in the 3D mic and the reason was what we discussed last week. It is basically something they decided against due to the constraints a laser could cause to the end user and some other security issues.
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Absolutely correct, however I personally always like to start from the middle (centre) seat when taking measurements before moving onto any other positions :)

@fatboy frank how did you get on with your first calibration? I hope it all went well :)

I also got a chance to ask about "why no laser light beam" in the 3D mic and the reason was what we discussed last week. It is basically something they decided against due to the constraints a laser could cause to the end user and some other security issues.
Must admit that i've always done calibrations starting from the centre position anyway as that was the recommendation for Dirac to get the initial levels etc. ..... before moving on to do the 19 :eek: other positions.

I only did a single point calibration from the centre seat just to see how it went quite pleased with the results for a first time effort. I also put my spare quilt over the leather sofa to reduce reflections, which made a noticeable improvement to the RT60 figures, down from 0.22 to 0.19 :thumbsup:
Positions.jpg
Elevation.jpg
Graphs.jpg

As i said, pretty pleased with the results for a first time effort, spent quite a bit of time sorting
the mic position/levelling etc ..... but that will get easier with practice 👍

My only real issue is the graphs only go down to 20Hz, so can't see the full range of my sub's as i know they'll go down to pretty much single figures.

Think the answer as to why no laser pointer built in is a bit of a cop out, or they could of made something that you slid the mic in to, a bit like the shock mount, with a laser and a couple of spirit levels.
 

mkohman

Well-known Member
Must admit that i've always done calibrations starting from the centre position anyway as that was the recommendation for Dirac to get the initial levels etc. ..... before moving on to do the 19 :eek: other positions.

I only did a single point calibration from the centre seat just to see how it went quite pleased with the results for a first time effort. I also put my spare quilt over the leather sofa to reduce reflections, which made a noticeable improvement to the RT60 figures, down from 0.22 to 0.19 :thumbsup:View attachment 1273711View attachment 1273712View attachment 1273713
As i said, pretty pleased with the results for a first time effort, spent quite a bit of time sorting
the mic position/levelling etc ..... but that will get easier with practice 👍

Think the answer as to why no laser pointer built in is a bit of a cop out, or they could of made something that you slid the mic in to, a bit like the shock mount, with a laser and a couple of spirit levels.
Well done Shane, you did an absolutely stellar job considering this was your first attempt, as the graphs don't lie :clap:

Indeed setup and taking your time in doing so is crucial as this will affect your results. I'm glad you are getting the hang of things, enjoy my friend and please let me know if you find a device that will fit around the 3D mic that beams out a laser light. All the best Shane :thumbsup:


PS: don't forget there is a Trinnov webinar at 4pm this afternoon..

Edit: forgot to mention your RT60 value is brillant.. Those panel's are doing a good job :)
 

mb3195

Well-known Member
Must admit that i've always done calibrations starting from the centre position anyway as that was the recommendation for Dirac to get the initial levels etc. ..... before moving on to do the 19 :eek: other positions.

I only did a single point calibration from the centre seat just to see how it went quite pleased with the results for a first time effort. I also put my spare quilt over the leather sofa to reduce reflections, which made a noticeable improvement to the RT60 figures, down from 0.22 to 0.19 :thumbsup:View attachment 1273711View attachment 1273712View attachment 1273713
As i said, pretty pleased with the results for a first time effort, spent quite a bit of time sorting
the mic position/levelling etc ..... but that will get easier with practice 👍

My only real issue is the graphs only go down to 20Hz, so can't see the full range of my sub's as i know they'll go down to pretty much single figures.

Think the answer as to why no laser pointer built in is a bit of a cop out, or they could of made something that you slid the mic in to, a bit like the shock mount, with a laser and a couple of spirit levels.
Hi mate, interested in your thoughts on how it sounds compared to your previous setups?
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Hi mate, interested in your thoughts on how it sounds compared to your previous setups?
Hi, well it is still very early days in my ownership, however, there was an immediate and very noticeable improvement in noise floor, it is now very quiet :thumbsup:

Also the detail seems much improved, especially on the surround channels. The flexibility/tweakability is on a completely different level and i haven't even scratched the surface on how to get the best out of it.

I'm very happy with the improvements it has made even on a basic setup/calibration.

This thing is a "beast" but there will be a big learning curve as it works very differently from anything else i've used.
 

Ringnut

Distinguished Member
Must admit that i've always done calibrations starting from the centre position anyway as that was the recommendation for Dirac to get the initial levels etc. ..... before moving on to do the 19 :eek: other positions.

I only did a single point calibration from the centre seat just to see how it went quite pleased with the results for a first time effort.
Yes, so do I, I was just saying I don't think the order is essential, just good practice maybe. :)

I agree, those results look very good. You have some well-placed speaker positions, particularly your LCR. Spot on the recommended angles. :smashin: And your RT60 is exactly the same as mine, I'm guessing you have a pretty well-damped room.

You have a very wide 80dB range on your FR graphs which hides most of the detail, try zooming in (+/- on the bottom right). I note that they used a 20dB range in their seminar last night which rather puts a magnifying glass on things. :)

This was mine at +/- 20dB

Single point calibration graph 20dB range.jpg


and compare that with Jon Herron's from last night's Webinar:

Trinnov graph result.jpg


Impressive or what?! :D I'm not sure what subs he had with that one but they don't seem to drop off if I'm reading that correctly.

I'm guessing you will quicky find the flexibility that you get with the Trinnov completely addictive, I know I did. :D Good luck! :smashin:
 
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mkohman

Well-known Member
Yes, so do I, I was just saying I don't think the order is essential, just good practice maybe. :)

I agree, those results look very good. You have some well-placed speaker positions, particularly your LCR. Spot on the recommended angles. :smashin: And your RT60 is exactly the same as mine, I'm guessing you have a pretty well-damped room.

You have a very wide 80dB range on your FR graphs which hides most of the detail, try zooming in (+/- on the bottom right). I note that they used a 20dB range in their seminar last night which rather puts a magnifying glass on things. :)

This was mine at +/- 20dB

View attachment 1274005

and compare that with Jon Herron's from last night's Webinar:

View attachment 1274006

Impressive or what?! :D I'm not sure what subs he had with that one but they don't seem to drop off until around 6kHz if I'm reading that correctly. :eek:

I'm guessing you will quicky find the flexibility that you get with the Trinnov completely addictive, I know I did. :D Good luck! :smashin:
Actually John Herron's graph doesn't have the sub enabled as well as the Lrs channel, just thought I'd point that out incase you missed it but yes overall very very impressive graph :thumbsup:
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Quick question,

If i want to tweak my settings, do i just save it to a new preset and then compute?

I'm trying to tweak one of my subs and have adjusted the gain and phase slightly on my rear one and want to see any changes in the graphs, or do i need to re calibrate?
 

fatboy frank

Well-known Member
Click on Hz under the Zoom tab, you should have a choice of views including 10Hz to 300Hz. :smashin:
Cheers Jon, i did notice that after i'd asked the question.
 

mkohman

Well-known Member
Quick question,

If i want to tweak my settings, do i just save it to a new preset and then compute?

I'm trying to tweak one of my subs and have adjusted the gain and phase slightly on my rear one and want to see any changes in the graphs, or do i need to re calibrate?
If you adjust the sub physically from it's on board controls, then I believe you may need to re calibrate as when you did the original calibration it wouldn't have known the new adjustments you have just made. However, if it's an adjustment you make within the Trinnov, you just save a copy of it on a new preset and then compute and save or you can do it on the existing preset by computing and overwriting that preset if you like.
 

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