This was the solution for my Toshiba Satellite P205 S6307 running Windows 7 & purchased in 2007, but I guess that most models are built in a similar way. The problem:- The screen remained black after boot up. It went through the motions of a normal boot, i.e. hard diskactivity and the usual noises, but the screen just remain black. I search theinternet and found many similar examples, but never a solution.. What I did find though, was by reducing the angle of the lidtowards the keyboard immediately after pressing the power button, the machine wouldboot up normally. Once started the lid could be adjusted anywhere. This wasquite strange and led me to believe that it might be something to do with thelid switch. As time passed though this booting ritual became lessreliable and the angle of the lid almost reached zero to get it started. Recently(2013) it became hit and miss whether it would work at all, and if so I foundthat opening the lid too far caused the screen to become predominantly red. Feeling sure that it was going to fail completely I decidedto buy a new machine, affording me some time to experiment and pull the old oneapart. I always had it in the back of my mind that it was something to do withthe lid switch, but to be truthful I never did find it. I started by removing the keyboard and then the speakerpanel which holds the power switch amongst others. I then removed some screwfasteners and unclipped the bezel surrounding the LCD screen. This reveals allthe cabling that connects the monitor with the laptop including the inverter. With everything exposed and much jiggery pokery I got Windowsto boot up and the screen working normally. I found that by prodding the LCD cablein a certain place made the screen flicker, so I decided to remove itcompletely for inspection. It took some time dismantling the screen but thisenabled me to unplug the cable at both ends and remove it. It immediately became apparent that the section of cable that'spasses through the lid hinge was weak and floppy, and had obviously weakenedwith the constant opening and closing of the lid, best described as metal fatigue. I would say that the frail and fractured copper wires partedwithin their plastic sheath when the lid was bent at certain angles, so causingthe screen to fail. I found a new cable on Ebay costing just a few quid and afterrefitting it the machine is like new again. I just wish I'd had the confidenceto do it prior to the expense of a new machine. I hope this might help others, who like me have spent halftheir life looking for a solution to this problem.