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TLC (Varilight) Remote Touch Dimmer

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Buying & Building' started by milanlad, Oct 10, 2004.

  1. milanlad

    milanlad
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    I would like to double check regarding the remote dimmer switches on the TLC website:

    If I have a 2 gang dimmer switch rated at 400W, what is the maximum load per gang if I'm using mains GU halogen lamps?

    Thanks
     
  2. hornydragon

    hornydragon
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    for GU you halve the rating i think its all on the site..... 250W max...
     
  3. milanlad

    milanlad
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    Its not very clear on the site.

    It does say however that for a 250W 2 gang dimmer, you can load each gang with 100W?
     
  4. digisocialist

    digisocialist
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    I have just installed a Varlight Remote Dimmer Switch. Not sure I understand the 2 gang thing you refer to, but if it's of any help I installed 7 x 50W 240V mains GU Halogen Dimmable Downligters - the max load on the Dimmer switch was 400w (maximum of 8 x 50W or 16 x 25w bulbs). I got mine from B&Q for conveience and it works great. Programmed it to 0 on my TV remote and it works a dream. Future upgrade will be via Marantz RC LR :)

    If you are going for Halogen Spots then 50w bulbs should suffice (thought this depends on the size of the room); consider the heat output of 400w of power!
     
  5. milanlad

    milanlad
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    Hi
    Did you use a single gang 400W switch or a 2 gang (dual) 400W dimmer switch?
     
  6. garyc

    garyc
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    with regards to the varilight remote dimmers, if you install a 1 gang master dimmer and a slave unit i.e 2 way . do both units pickup the IR signal, so basically it doesn't matter which one you point your remote at?

    cheers

    Gary
     
  7. hornydragon

    hornydragon
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    i dont think slaves are IR compatible... mate had one but had to send it back as he only had 2 core to second location.....
     
  8. digisocialist

    digisocialist
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    Hornydragon,

    The instructions say it's suitable for multi-way if using master and slave units. I'm just using the one dimmer as a master which has a 400W unit inside it I think. I just connected the Neutral & Live to the connection box inside (as per the diagram on the instructions) and it works great.
     
  9. hornydragon

    hornydragon
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    hmm his slave would turn light off but not on.... odd, glad you're happy
     
  10. erockybalboa

    erockybalboa
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    If you want to replace your regular switch with a dimmer switch, it's simple to do, and it will also improve your lighting options. The first thing you want to do is remove your cover plate, which is very simple, just removing the screws. And you want to make sure you've cut the power off at the breaker, because you don't want to touch anything in here until you've done so. The next thing you'll want to do is remove the switch by simply loosening these screws- it helps to have a power screwdriver but it's not necessary.

    I don't have much wire to work with here in this old house, but you would normally have excess wire which would allow you to pull the switch out. and then you would detach the wires from the side of this switch by loosening these screws. Once you detach the wires, you just want to straighten the ends so that you can attach the wires on the dimmer switch to it. In most houses, you'll have a white wire and a black wire. In this old house, there are no such things. But it doesn't matter when you're installing a dimmer because it can go to either wire. You're going to attach them with these wire nuts, which you simply twist the wires together and you twist the wire nuts over each connection.

    Once you've done so, you'll simply fold up the excess wires, push them to the back so that you have room to put this in there, and then everything is just in reverse. You'll put the screws back in the same holes that the old switch came out of. And then you'll simply put the knob back on, turn on the power at the breaker, which I've already done, and you have light
     
  11. njg

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    Hi Guys!

    Hope I'm not outta place here, but this thread seems to have some knowhow regarding the varilight IR switches I need advice on!

    I'm straddling the boundaries of what kind of home automation I want to live with for the next few years. Had the usual average joe setup of pronto controlling a TV,DVD, Sky and an IR light dimmer and associated macros. Thats it!

    However, after a serious renovation undertake by moi I really think I should go the extra mile and get into PC automation of devices, X10, Homeseer and all that.

    However, I JUST KNOW this could be painful! If i could get away with IR commands, I think I just might!

    Here it is, the nutshell:

    These dimmers, could I assign one each to elements that I need control over, such one per lighting scene? Probably not a problem, I'm thinking :confused:

    More to the point, though: using one wired into a non lighting application for a DIY electric plasma screen lift , and a similar type DIY door opening mechanism. As long as its within the wattage it shouldn't matter should it? I would just be letting the switch do the switching, rather than the little manual rocker that controls them???

    That could mean an array of about to 6 dimmer switches, but I could live with that if I could achieve a fair level of control via remote, rather than venture into the more exotic side of automation.

    Of course, I could be talking claptrap, as I am no spark!

    PS. Any advice on the best solution if I want to repeat my IR commands, ie: press it on the remote and have them blasted to awkward locations.

    Any and all help greatly appreciated, guys!

    Thanks!

    Nick :thumbsup:
     
  12. jms_uk

    jms_uk
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    Quick question. Does the "main" live feed have to be connected to the master live terminal only? Or could it be connected to the live terminal of the slave, with the "pass through" live wire going between slave and master as already described in the instructions?

    The reason I ask is I think the sparkies who wired up our new loft conversion have placed this main live feed at the location we intended for the slave (we're using the 2Gang touch-remote master/slave combination)
     
  13. jms_uk

    jms_uk
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    Sorted it. The wiring was ok, but the sparkies had wired up the switches wrongly.. :) FYI, you can have the Main live going into either master or slave.. the tech support guys at Varilight were really helpful, even if their tech support phoneline is only available 2 afternoons a week (mon and fri) :smashin:
     
  14. chrish16

    chrish16
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    Hi
    I'm wondering if someone can help me with wiring my 2 way dimmer up.

    In my existing normal slave switch i have 1 Red wire in the C terminal, 1 Blue Wire in the L1 terminal and 1 Yellow Wire in the L2 terminal.

    Which wire goes to which on the back of my varilight slave dimmer.
    I would have thought obviously the live wire goes to live, and the C terminal to the S terminal and the switched live to the Load?

    I have read condridicting advice online.

    I can post some pictures if you would like to see what wires i have behind my plates.
     
  15. chrish16

    chrish16
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    Heres a diagram i found which seems to be my circuit i think.
    As the power seems to be on the common terminal does this mean that i need to connect the wires from the common terminals on the old switches to the live terminal on the dimmers?
    I found this quote from a website:

    When being used for 2 way you should use all 3 terminals
    when changing like for like The ~(with arrow) is the C terminal L1 and L2 stay as they are



    So is this saying to put the common wires onto the load terminals on the dimmer?


    Regards
     

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