Tinting a record deck cover

Discussion in 'Hi-Fi Stereo Systems & Separates' started by shahedz, Mar 19, 2006.

  1. shahedz

    shahedz
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    i have a project record deck, the perspex / plastic cover has a few scartches and isnt really in the best condition, does anyone know where i could get a black over from or possibly tint my own?
     
  2. clockworks

    clockworks
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    Tamiya do several tinting paints which are very effective, as long as you spray them on. Available from most model shops.

    The scratches should be easy to remove. Use progressively finer grades of wet-or-dry paper (used wet), ending with 2000 grit, and finish with a good quality polish. Polywatch (used for polishing acrylic watch "glasses", usually available on eBay) is probably the best, but you could use T-cut, then Brasso.

    Be careful not to rub too vigourously, especially with the polish. If the plastic gets too hot, it'll go opaque.
     
  3. shahedz

    shahedz
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    cheers clockworks, i think i may try tinting, i will spray from the inside of the cover, do you thinks its farily easy to get an even tint?
     
  4. clockworks

    clockworks
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    Spraying from the inside will certainly be more robust, but it'll be difficult to do with an aerosol. Due to the wide spray pattern from a rattle-can, you'll get a build up of paint at the edges of the fan when you try to get paint into the corners. An airbrush will be much easier to use. The small fan will be more controllable, allowing you to build up the tint in very thin coats.

    With an aerosol, you'll be better spraying from the outside.
     
  5. shahedz

    shahedz
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    damn it! i was hoping to use an aersol but i understand what you mean, i thought from spray on the inside it would look better. i need to look into buying a small air brush thingy majig! sounds scary and expensive!
     
  6. clockworks

    clockworks
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    Yes, spraying from the inside will give you a better finish, and you won't scratch it or wear it off.

    While a top quality airbrush and compressor is expensive (I paid over £500), you can get a basic airbrush and a can of propellant for about £25. This will be perfectly adequate for a job like this. An expensive airbrush (£70 and up)gives you more control for really delicate work (artwork, photo retouching, etc), while a compressor is only necessary if you use the airbrush a lot (saves on propellant cans). My compressor was expensive because it's silent.

    Have a look for basic airbrush sets in model shops. Badger and Aztek ones work well, I've not tried the Humbrol ones. The Aztek airbrushes are very good for beginners, since they are easy to set up.
     
  7. shahedz

    shahedz
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    £25 seems more like it! i dont see myself needing it besides this use, will check out a few model shops, i hope i can get an even layer with the tint, my main worry is that the colour wont be even , worst case scenario can i take the tint off? by the way thank you very much for your help so far
     
  8. clockworks

    clockworks
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    Tamiya paint is very easy to remove when wet, since it's acrylic, not enamel. Buy a jar or Tamiya thinners (you'll need it to thin the paint for airbrushing, anyway). A cloth dampened with thinners will remove the uncured paint, without damaging most plastics.
    Once the paint has dried, it comes off fairly easily with T-cut. Because the paint has very little solvent in it, it doesn't tend to "bite" into plastic too much.
     
  9. shahedz

    shahedz
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  10. clockworks

    clockworks
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    That's an external mix airbrush. They work fine, as long as you get the air pressure and paint viscosity just right. A double-action internal mix brush like http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PRECISION-AIRBRUSH-KIT-AIR-BRUSH-AIR-TOOL-AB-128_W0QQitemZ8269206163QQcategoryZ57209QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem is more forgiving. A double-action internal mix allows much finer droplets to be sprayed, allowing you to put less paint on with each pass. The air can be run continuously, and the paint flow turned on and off. A single-action tends to spatter when you first press the button, as the air pressure builds up - you need to start spraying away from the job.

    if you are prepared to spend some time experimenting with paint mixes, the one you linked to should be fine.
     
  11. shahedz

    shahedz
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    ahhh, sounds too terrifying for someone like me, whats your thoughts on car window or light tinting spray
     
  12. clockworks

    clockworks
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    Whatever you spray, you'll have the same application problems. I've never used window tint, but it's probably similar to the old fashioned yellow tint that people used to apply to headlamps. That was acetone-based, IIRC, and would probably reduce your cover to a molten puddle!

    If you can find smoke tint for car rear lights, that would probably work OK. Maybe a car bodyshop could spray it on for you. A high volume, low pressure spray gun would probably work OK spraying the inside of the cover. Failing that, it may be tough enough to work on the outside of the cover.
     
  13. shahedz

    shahedz
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    yikes you got me worried with the acteone based spray! i think i may try the light tints, may ask a freind of mine who works in a garage to see if he can arrange it , cheers mate :thumbsup:
     
  14. Uncle Ants

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    Have you thought about just buying a new lid? They are about the same kind of money. Or getting some of that stuff to polish out the scratches
     
  15. shahedz

    shahedz
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    i did try to search for anew tinted lid but couldnt find one anywhere, any ideas anyone? i had a look on ebay and saw some polish so will be getting some of that now
     
  16. Uncle Ants

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    Ah. Its the tinted thing that's the important bit then. Not so easy as all the Pro-Ject lids are a standard colourless clear.
     
  17. shahedz

    shahedz
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    great :( i saw a tinted cover on a deck and really like the look of it, does anyone make them for project?
     
  18. Uncle Ants

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    Hmm. There are a few companies out there that'll do custom lids ... problem is its likely to cost. £100 to £150 or there abouts I should think.
     
  19. shahedz

    shahedz
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    :eek: :eek: :eek: ebay polish it is!! cheers though!
     
  20. Uncle Ants

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    Sounds like spraying the inside is the thing then. If you went for a flat black rather than a tint, it wouldn't matter how even you get it. Probably look quite nice too.
     
  21. shahedz

    shahedz
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    i would want a dark tint you see, but from the sounds of it, getting it even in the corners etc would be pretty difficult for someone with the lack of skills like me, a solid black i dont think would look that nice , have you seen one? if so what did you think?
     
  22. Uncle Ants

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    It would look like shiny black perspex. I've never seen it on a lid, but I have seen a clear acrylic plinth with the underside painted black - it actually looked quite classy.
     
  23. shahedz

    shahedz
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    im gonna see if i can get hold of an old deck thats gonna be chucked and experiment, still a bit hesitant on it being pitch black, my lid loosk so weathered lets down the look of the whole kit
     
  24. Uncle Ants

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    Yeah. If it looks a bit scuffed and scuzzy it might not work too well. It worked on the plinth because it was shiny and clean.
     

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