The 'Voltage' Sub

ShinObiWAN

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Hello fellow DIY'ers,

After a couple of years away from box designing I've decided to get back in the game. One of the motivations for this is a distinct lack of 'real' subs in the under £600 bracket.

At the beginning of this my aim was to create a sub that was comparable to the best audiophile sub that was available around the £2000 mark. Whether my design can is entirely academic and what looks good in phase, group delay and SPL plots can only be judged after the theory has been transformed into reality.

With this heady goal in mind, I spent a large amount of time researching drivers, enclosures and active crossovers and amps.

As well as this I set myself the goals of:

-70l Volume Maximum
-Flat to 20hz Minimum
-Less than 16hz at -3dB

After a month of research I've ended up selecting the following components:

Driver: 10" Volt 2500.1 = £270
The best 10" in the business, so it only seemed fitting that I should design and optimise my enclosure around this astounding driver.

Amp: BK 650w Mono Class D Digital Amp = £250
Low distortion, high current digital amp. Perfect for a subwoofer design that needs lots of power on tap for excellent dynamics and control.

PEQ/FBD: Behringher DSP1124P = £99
Essential in any room bar an anarchoic chamber. Helps get a flat response throughout the frequency range of the sub.

Cabinet: Ported
Using double walled 3/4" MDF or 1.5" thoughout (Baffle is 2.25"). Tuned to 18hz flat and 15hz at -3dB. Cabinet extensively braced throughout.

Blueprint:
Kinda difficult to see what exactely is going off here and some bits are missing in this diagram :suicide:
Shinobiwan3264-subdes.jpg


Anyway I've just completed the side walls so I'll post pictures once I get to a decent stage :)
 
Looks good.

Keep us well updated with pics.

:smashin:

I'm actually giving my RTP-15 a run at the moment, just need a new Arcam AVR300 then I can finally give the BFD a run too, though it is pretty mean without it....:devil:
 
Just finished cutting and glueing the top and bottom panels.

Tommorow I plan to begin assembling the finished top and side panels and get the internal bracing cut then fixed into place.

Will be posting images of the progress soon.
 
Originally posted by ReTrO
I'm actually giving my RTP-15 a run at the moment, just need a new Arcam AVR300 then I can finally give the BFD a run too, though it is pretty mean without it....:devil:

Is the RTP-15 a homebrew sub?

If so can I have details please, alway nice to look at somebody elses hardwork :)
 
Very nice work Retro.

On a side note, I've not worked on the design at today - I was just too exhausted after work and decided to sleep so its little late to start winding the circular saw up :eek: :nono:

Pictures tommorow for definite :rolleyes: ;)
 
Well here we go:

These are the finished side panels of the enclosure ready for attachment to the top and bottom panels:
Shinobiwan3264-sides.JPG


Top and bottom panels, cut and ready:
Shinobiwan3264-topbot.JPG


Here we have the internal bracing but needs a little work yet before they are completed, namely they are each missing the 8" hole which sits directly behind the drive unit, a 4" hole for the 45cm long bass port to pass through and finally some routering out of the excess bits which are not needed:
Shinobiwan3264-Bracing.JPG


This is the first side panel fixed to the bottom of the enclosure, it has simply been glued using Bostik Wood Adhesive and then screwed in 3 places to hold the joint tight and provide more stability to the entire box:
Shinobiwan3264-sidebot.JPG


As you can see there's still lots to do so there will be more to come.
 
Interesting pics..


If you want a 3D solid model drawn up, mail me the details and i will stick in our CAD system for you.

Taz of Retrotaz
 
Originally posted by Taz
If you want a 3D solid model drawn up, mail me the details and i will stick in our CAD system for you.

Taz of Retrotaz

Thanks for the gracious offer but I'm nearly finished with the basic box work however if others are interested then I'll be glad to pass on all the details needed for you to build a CAD model of the enclosure.

Had a nightmare day today where one of the panels was effectively destroyed by a stupid dropping incident - the corner was mashed in the process. So I've had to cut another to replace it rather than try and repair, very stupid of me but at least it didn't land on my foot!

Expecting delivery of Volt driver early next week so am aiming to finish by that time.

Also does anyone know a good supplier of marble? I plan to make a plinth for the sub and was wondering if anyone else had suggestions?
 
Here we have the first side cheek.
Shinobiwan3264-sideche.JPG


Both side cheeks glued and fixed into place, the whole thing weighs an abosolute ton now and there's still a fair amount more wood to add not to mention the amp, driver and plinth.
Shinobiwan3264-view1.JPG


Shinobiwan3264-view2.JPG


Shinobiwan3264-view3.JPG
 
Hello all,

After speaking with a few people over on www.DIYAudio.com I've re-assessed what my goals are and the 'Voltage' no longer meets these.

So I've decided to stop work on this project.

Its not a completely waste of perfectly good MDF as my brother has decided to cut up the remains of the enlosure and build a 27ltr Peerless XLS 10 box, so the Voltage will live on in a castrated form.

I'm now working on an enclosure which will feature a 15" Adire Tumult driver, needless to say it should be pretty dangerous :)
 

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