The Little Cinema of Burnley

As it's a dedicated room, how comes you are opting for retractable screen?

We have electric 106" screen in pelmet and personally cannot wait to be able to have AT fixed screen.

Have you considered a DIY fix screen, wall to wall?
You could also make masking panels?

Looking forward to seeing finished room.
 
That was lucky!

What I don't understand is how the kitchen fitter didn't kill himself, unless the electric supply hadn't been turned on at that point as it was a new build. Just goes to show that there are hidden dangers even when the so called professional tradesman are doing the work.
Once they reach a certain level of thickness, the extra skin acts as an insulator...
 
As it's a dedicated room, how comes you are opting for retractable screen?

We have electric 106" screen in pelmet and personally cannot wait to be able to have AT fixed screen.

Have you considered a DIY fix screen, wall to wall?
You could also make masking panels?
As I mentioned in the first post, it was a tough decision whether to put the screen on the solid wall or the window wall, but I don't think the seating arrangement would have worked because of where the door is, so that meant the screen had to go on the window wall.

I did consider blocking up the window, either permanently or temporarily (even just permanently closing the blinds and building the screen frame over the recess). I also considered a fixed screen on big ceiling hinges, so the screen could be pulled down when in use, and pushed back up when not, but I didn't trust my DIY skills enough and was worried (or at least the wife was) that it would fall down and kill somebody. I had a train set on a big MDF board when I was a kid, that literally jumped off the hinges on a wall and missed me by inches, so I know it can happen!

I also considered building a removable frame with handles, so it could be lifted off the wall and stored at the side of the room.

All the above just seemed like a bodge,and likely to end up having to fix and rebuild screens, so we made the decision to just go for the motorised tab-tensioned AT screen instead. It's about 5 times more expensive than building a fixed one, but that will (hopefully) all be forgotten once we start enjoying movies!

Masking panels... yeah I suspect letterbox mode will do my nut in. I have a Philips 21:9 Cinema screen that we watch most movies on, and it's fantastic when the screen is filled edge to edge. I also have a Samsung 4K HDR 16:9 TV for the UHD stuff, and those black bars do annoy me.
 
I was about to mention covering up the gas pipe earlier but ran out of tea break time at work. I put a 3mm steel plate over the gas pipe and electrics in our utility room (this is open either side of the room so ventilated), you never know what someone's going to do in the future, and a 0.5mm thick metal capping isn't going to stop anything - like to see them drill or nail through a 3mm thick plate though :D

With the electrics they have to be protected if not in a safe zone, and less than 50mm below the surface IIRC.

Not much idea about gas pipes, but googling seems to suggest gas pipes should not be hidden, and if they are in voids should be suitably ventilated in case of gas leaks. Steel pipe should be used if directly buried in the walls or floors.

PS. Sketchup models are looking good. To line your speakers up, use the move option, select the centre of the speaker you want to move, start moving it along the axis it needs to be moved then press and hold the shift key now find the centre of the speaker you want to line it up with. All the time the shift key is pressed the item will only move along the high lighted axis.
 
I was about to mention covering up the gas pipe earlier but ran out of tea break time at work. I put a 3mm steel plate over the gas pipe and electrics in our utility room (this is open either side of the room so ventilated), you never know what someone's going to do in the future, and a 0.5mm thick metal capping isn't going to stop anything - like to see them drill or nail through a 3mm thick plate though :D

With the electrics they have to be protected if not in a safe zone, and less than 50mm below the surface IIRC.

Not much idea about gas pipes, but googling seems to suggest gas pipes should not be hidden, and if they are in voids should be suitably ventilated in case of gas leaks. Steel pipe should be used if directly buried in the walls or floors.
I'm not sure I'd find a steel plate deep enough to cover the mains gas pipe, it would need to be 45mm deep I could fit the 3mm plate stuff to the stud work that surrounds the pipe as it shouldn't get in the way of the resilient channel.

The electric cable has been fixed more than 50mm behind the plasterboard, and where it pops through the insulation and plasterboard, I'm using 20mm conduit sweep bends to protect it.
 
PS. Sketchup models are looking good. To line your speakers up, use the move option, select the centre of the speaker you want to move, start moving it along the axis it needs to be moved then press and hold the shift key now find the centre of the speaker you want to line it up with. All the time the shift key is pressed the item will only move along the high lighted axis.
Thanks, although I've tried that, and the component ends up miles away. I think the axis is all buggered up, but I don't know how to reset it :blush:
 
I'm not sure I'd find a steel plate deep enough to cover the mains gas pipe, it would need to be 45mm deep I could fit the 3mm plate stuff to the stud work that surrounds the pipe as it shouldn't get in the way of the resilient channel.
it.

I'm not sure what you mean by 45mm deep plate, all you need is a plate in front of the pipe, so if anyone try's to drill or bang a nail in the wall they hit the plate. Just get your local fabrication shop to shear some 3mm plate to at least 75mm wide and to manageable/suitable lengths and then fix in front of the gas pipe, so it's between the pipe and the wall surface.

As for sketchup the axis of components can get a but buggered up, but if moving a whole component or group that won't make any difference. It can be awkward and is something I've struggled with on occasions when try to move things over a biggish distance, it seems to not won't snap to the correct place.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by 45mm deep plate, all you need is a plate in front of the pipe, so if anyone try's to drill or bang a nail in the wall they hit the plate. Just get your local fabrication shop to shear some 3mm plate to at least 75mm wide and to manageable/suitable lengths and then fix in front of the gas pipe, so it's between the pipe and the wall surface.
The gas pipe is 40mm diameter, so sits 45mm from the wall. The metal plate would need to cover the pipe and the edges would need to be fixed to the wall above and below, hence 45mm deep - how else would it be fixed to the wall? Or are you saying that a 75mm wide plate could be bent 'round' the pipe so that the edges sit against the wall?
 
Probably the easiest way to explain is with a picture.

upload_2017-11-1_16-28-36.png


Either fit the plate to rear of the studs if possible, or recessed into the front of the studs, alternately use some copper pipe as spacers and fit direct to the blockwork with some long screws in front of the pipe. This method may be the easiest/quickest.

upload_2017-11-1_16-33-34.png
 
Well maybe you can do that now!

Congratulations bud, will be interesting to see what you decide to do.

Indeed! haha!
Actually the influx of cash and expertise, coupled with my unease at spending lots of money on high end gear in a non-HT room, means that the garage is probably going to "get it" with both barrels now, instead of the lounge upgrades. I can't quite face spending such a sum on effectively "just" upgrades and not getting some extra utility out of the largest component of most installs (the house itself).
 
So whilst the plasterboard was ripped off the walls back in July, work didn't really start on rebuilding the room until the 21st October.

First job was to build the 50mm stud frame, so took a trip to the local B&Q and picked up five 6-packs of 50mm x 47mm x 2400mm rough sawn timber. The advertised price was £22 per pack, but this dropped to £15.73 at the till, happy days :smashin:

We managed to get two and a half walls done on the first day, but had to finish at 3pm for other commitments.

View attachment 931080You would like to think that the walls on an 18 year old house were plum, but no, they are pretty much all a few mm out. Obviously the stud work is level all way round, but this will eat in to the width it a little.

I mentioned using Acoustic Hangers and Acoustic Tape as a means of providing additional isolation from the existing floor and ceiling joists -

You can't tell from this photo, but there is a 10mm gap between the timber and the brick.

Have updated the first few posts as well.
Hi Adam, The washers are meant to be used on top of the rubber grommets. Simply using a screw through the middle without the washer may give you problems when you start loading up with Plaster board.
 
Your Gas pipe needs vents in the wall to it by law!! Any pipework passing through a cavity should be vented high and low to reduce the risk of explosion should the pipe fracture at any point
 
I took the gas pipe discussion with @richkbrock to PM so as not to fill the thread, and ended up getting a Gas Safe engineer in to have a look. He thought it would be okay, but was going to confirm with Gas Safe to be sure. I'll update once I hear back from him.
 
I have a question to those that have installed Resilient Channel (rather than clips and furring bars). I've scoured the Internet, but can't find anything definitive about how bars should be finished in the corners (internal corner).

I'm not sure whether to fix the bars right up to the adjacent wall and return bar, or whether a gap is required so that they can't touch each other.

This is how it looks with the first bar right up to the adjacent stud -

20171112_102548.jpg


The first bar (on the left) will touch the second bar (on the right) once weight is put on it. I'm wondering whether the first bar should be finished so that neither can touch once the plasterboard has been fitted?

I hope I've explained it clearly!
 
I used Isomax clips & furring bars so don't have personal experience, but looking at your photos I think that you are probably best to either cut the resilient bar short so that it doesnt touch it's neighbour when loaded up or stagger the heights of the bars on the adjoining walls so they dont touch. Otherwise you may be short circuiting the function of the resilient bar as you would not be allowing it to flex fully in the way it is designed to.
Or you could install the first layer of Plaster board on two opposite walls before installing the resilient bar on the adjoining walls.
 
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Below is a link to the British Gypsum manual for Gyproc Quiet wall system which includes a detail for the resilient bar at internal corner junctions on page 28 (detail 5)
The things to note are that:-
1. You should install vertical noggins under each resilient bar to stop it deflecting at the corners.
2. The detail also shows the boards on one wall being installed right up to the stud work or existing wall before the res bar on the adjacent wall is installed. Peter d-w's final comment above also suggests this. I assume this protects against flanking. At least that's how I read it. Hope this is clear and helps.

http://www.british-gypsum.com/~/med...C04-S05-Partitions-GypWall-QUIET-SF.pdf?la=en
 
Thanks @peter-d-w and @derekhansen

I've had a look through that BG manual, but not sure if the method differs for metal C studs?

I will be staggering the plasterboard layers in the corners, so will need to cut back the adjacent bar anyway. Looks like some more vertical stud work will be required though as the ends of the bar would be floating otherwise.
 
Thanks @peter-d-w and @derekhansen

I've had a look through that BG manual, but not sure if the method differs for metal C studs?

I will be staggering the plasterboard layers in the corners, so will need to cut back the adjacent bar anyway. Looks like some more vertical stud work will be required though as the ends of the bar would be floating otherwise.
I think that staggering or stepping the PB layers in the corner is the best method too. It's not a big job to make those few changes, you will have it done in no time!
 
Just found a document that states the resilient channel should be finished 25mm away from the adjoining wall, and ceiling channel should also finished be 25mm from the adjacent wall - http://www.phillipsmfg.com/techspec/installation/RC_1_Installation.pdf

Fortunately easy enough to fix, but glad I checked before plasterboarding :blush:

Many different manufacturers make a resilient bar/channel, each with slightly different installation instructions, not least which way up the channel should be fixed to the stud work. So long as you're not short-circuiting the decoupling, I think you'll be fine.

Edit: I used Tradeline resilient bar from CCF on my walls but installed it to British Gypsum's instructions.
 
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