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The Cycling Thread

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IronGiant

Moderator
Just a reminder that Lidl have their cycling offers on today.

The workstand for £30 is incredible value. I've also had some trousers and a tool kit.

Oh no, Dave will be asking us what two of the tools do now ;)
 

Berties

Banned
Check the stand doesn't tip over easy. I bought a stand a while ago, sometimes it can tip over.

If I had the space I'd concrete it into the floor.
 

weetsie

Novice Member
i just picked up some cycling shorts and the seat bag from lidl, the bag has a multi tool, tyre levers and a puncture repair kit for £5 which isnt too bad.

all the mens shorts were far too large for me so i had to get the womens which have bright pink seams and cords :blush:
 

Berties

Banned
yeah I picked up a couple of bag/tool kits from aldi, similar comes with 2 tyre levers, some patches, multi tool kit (worth a fiver alone)
 

Berties

Banned
lol guess what happened? Chain fell off large sprocket on the cassette between spokes! Luckily just doing walking pace.

I must have done thousands and thousands over the years, first time that's happened. New bike though so not run in properly or tested.
 

Dave

Distinguished Member
lol guess what happened? Chain fell off large sprocket on the cassette between spokes! Luckily just doing walking pace.

I must have done thousands and thousands over the years, first time that's happened. New bike though so not run in properly or tested.

Who'd have thought?

Maybe they should put a piece of clear plastic in between the cassette and the spokes to protect them in case this happens.:devil:
 

Berties

Banned
nah that's what your skull is for, when you fall off it protects your brain.

Adjusted end stop quarter of a turn, should be fine now. Haven't used bike much so reason why
 

IronGiant

Moderator
Luckily just doing walking pace.

Glad to hear that:smashin: it wouldn't have been at all funny if you'd hurt yourself or damaged the bike :thumbsup:

Bike is OK is it?
 

inzaman

Moderator
Who'd have thought?

Maybe they should put a piece of clear plastic in between the cassette and the spokes to protect them in case this happens.:devil:

It would have done, i have had it happen to me twice in the past (not recently though - touch wood) and both going up hill, broke a few spokes both times :rolleyes:
 

Adcook

Distinguished Member
Ok I was trying to tinker with my front derailleur this evening, I pretty much had it adjusted correctly so I went to tighten the cable bolt but the nut just kept spinning. I took the nut off and there was very little thread left on the bolt and now I cant get it to tighten at all. Can I just replace the coach bolt? If so where can I get one from? Or do I need a new derailleur?

 
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Dave

Distinguished Member
Adcook said:
Ok I was trying to tinker with my front derailleur this evening, I pretty much had it adjusted correctly so I went to tighten the cable bolt but the nut just kept spinning. I took the nut off and there was very little thread left on the bolt and now I cant get it to tighten at all. Can I just replace the coach bolt? If so where can I get one from? Or do I need a new derailleur?

Go to your local bike shop and they'll sort you out.

As for adjusting the front derailleur I always tighten the cable first then adjust using the high, low screws and the micro adjuster.
 

Berties

Banned
As for adjusting the front derailleur I always tighten the cable first then adjust using the high, low screws and the micro adjuster.

You should loosen the cable, then set end stops, wind in barrell adjuster fully, then pull able and tigthen down.

Your way ok same thing but using micro adjuster to tighten after end stops have been adjusted, so if end stop was incorrect derailler placement at cable tension will be incorrect.
 

Berties

Banned
Adcook either bolt is too short, or perhaps sheared off, front derailler does have quite a bit of force applied to the downtube, if that bolt was faulty could have snapped. Should only be a few pence.
 

Dave

Distinguished Member
Berties said:
You should loosen the cable, then set end stops, wind in barrell adjuster fully, then pull able and tigthen down.

Your way ok same thing but using micro adjuster to tighten after end stops have been adjusted, so if end stop was incorrect derailler placement at cable tension will be incorrect.

That's what I meant. I always adjust the end stops then tweak with the fine adjustment. The cable clamp has little relevance when adjusting.
 

aVdub

Distinguished Member
You should loosen the cable, then set end stops, wind in barrell adjuster fully, then pull able and tigthen down.

Your way ok same thing but using micro adjuster to tighten after end stops have been adjusted, so if end stop was incorrect derailler placement at cable tension will be incorrect.

"Barrell adjuster" Are we talking about the screw in/out part found on both the mech and the shifter? If so, this should be set at mid point on both the mech and shifter end.
 

aVdub

Distinguished Member
I've found once pulled tight the only adjustment you need is to tighten the cable, not slacken it off.


Unless over tightened, which is quite common and middle/middle allows for adjustment either way.

Guess I'm thinking more for those that race/downhill/team and not so much for the normal peep :smashin:
 

Berties

Banned
Shouldn't really need to, once end stop on the derailler is set on smallest sprocket is set correctly with inner removed, all other gears will index perfectly. You only need to twiddle the barrell once inner cable has stretched, or fine tune it, cheaper ones stretch quite a bit. Campagnolo are pre stretched hardly needed to adjust mine, the ones on sram/shimano stretched 1" cable was slack thought hugh loosened, changed shifter to 1st, pulled tight then tightened down.
 

Adcook

Distinguished Member
Yeah basically after adjustment of the limit screws the cable was too slack on the lowest crank so I loosened the nut and pulled the cable tight. When I went to tighten the nut up again the nut just span and stripped the threads. Anyway I have it with me and Im going to nip to a local bike shop at lunchtime and hope they can sell me a replacement nut and bolt rather than a new derailleur.
 

Berties

Banned
Shouldn't be more than 20p, also if the thread in the derailler is damaged don't need a new derailler can get it rethreaded, although labour will probably be equal to a new derailler. If you know how to do it yourself.

Try and learn how to replace deraillers yourself, it's not hard. Front derailler is a bit harder need to know height and rotational position on the seat tube.
 

Adcook

Distinguished Member
there is no thread in the derailleur its a nut and coach bolt which suggests I dont need a new one. i just hope the shop has a matching coach bolt as it looks fairly specific to the application.
 

Berties

Banned
I wouldn't buy a replacement part from a bike shop though if it's just a coach bolt you can buy 20 for the price of one from a engineering firm.
 

Berties

Banned
Been using my bicycle trailer a lot, taking stuff down to the tip lots of junk in loft, shed. Now using it to bring back loft insulation, managed to fit 4 large rolls on to it! Got many looks from passers by lol.

Although if I had a car wouldn't want to bring it back in it, get itchy fibres and once in car seats it'll never go. And be very ithy.
 

inzaman

Moderator
I used to have a Gary Fisher Montare bike 1995 model and gave it away to a friend many years ago. Anyway we were talking the other night and i said i am going to get another mountain bike as a general hack, family riding etc and he said you can have your GF back if you want. I was amazed he still had it, I thought that had gone and would never be seen again.

Anyway i now have it at home and to say i hammered it back in the day round some pretty serious trails in Derbyshire, and he has used it to go to work in all weather's etc and has then been stored at the back of a shed for the past year or so it is not in too bad a condition. All gears are present and work (Shimano Deore which surprised me), brakes work, in fact the only things that let it down are the Rock Shox Q21R as they used elastomers which have turned to powder. I have managed to source down replacement springs for the elastomers. I was going to replace the forks with newer ones but i need the cantilever brake mountings, this was even before the V Brake craze :eek: but the current forks with these are 5lb plus in weight where as my Q21R are just 3lb :cool:

The frame lacquer has also cracked and pitted in various places. I dont know if there is anything i can do about that as it is blasted aluminium as opposed to polished?

Anyway once i get the shocks sorted i can use it again as it also looks quite retro, no disc brakes etc. My mate says that he tried to get the shocks sorted about two years ago but the several LBS's just laughed at him and said scrap the bike as newer models are far superior, but fortunately he never did.

The thing that really struck me is how light it is. The mountain bikes i was looking at for about £600 were quite heavy (well compared to my road bikes) but this is seriously light weight in comparison to the £600 odd models but then again it was £900 16 years ago so a quite decent model back in the day.

I will take some pictures once i get the forks done as it is in bits at the moment and needs a serious clean.
 
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