Tensioned screen, yes or no?

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by Deano316, Jun 26, 2015.

  1. Deano316

    Deano316
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    Currently have a 90" manual pull down screen and am looking to upgrade to an electric screen but my budget is very tight as I have a lot of other costs to cover after some extensive building work at my home. I've seen a few posts about tensioned screens and wondered if they are worth the extra spend. Looking to go up to 106" screen, as that is as big as I can currently go with my Sony VPL-HW40ES. Any advice would be appreciated.
     
  2. panman40

    panman40
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    If you can run to the extra cost I would say tab tension is worth the extra for peace of mind in the future, having said that the cost is basically double,

    I have upgraded from a 92' to 106" manual pull down, a sapphire non tab at £200, there is no sign of edge curl but it is new, the trick is getting one delivered in one piece..
     
  3. linnasak

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    Hi

    I have recently replaced my cheap £250 tab tensioned electric screen which I got to experiment with 2.35 format, when I bought my JVC HD950 projector some 5 years ago. I have gone from one extreme to the other I have used an unexpected endowement gain to purchase a Stewart cabaret studiotec 130 G3 screen. The difference is mega. My suggestion would be to track down a secondhand Stewart screen. You will probably only buy once and you will get a major upgrade that will improve as you upgrade your projectors. As mentioned in this weeks podcast spend some money on blackout systems also.

    I have noted that some of these secondhand screens go for low prices compared to new. Also if you go for fixed screens they can be really cheap. Saw one recently going for £150!

    Good luck

    Kevin
     
  4. panman40

    panman40
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    Was this the 1.3 gain in White ?, in high contrast areas of an image do you see any 'sparklies' ?.
     
  5. KelvinS1965

    KelvinS1965
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    Another +1 for tab tensioned. My Beamax 2.35:1 tab tensioned screen must be about 7 years old now and it is still as perfectly flat and unwrinkled as the day I put it up. Like many others I used a cheap screen first but became aware of it's faults (very visible surface texture in my case and it wrinkled). Once I put a decent screen up the image no longer looked like it was on a screen, but floating in space in front of me.

    It wasn't cheap, but it has done me very well though I agree with the comment above about resale of good screens; I paid about £1,200 IIRC and I'll be lucky to get a 1/4 of that if I sell it. I'm considering going over to AT next year, but I know that it won't be worth me buying a cheap one, though I won't get much 'trade in' for the old one.
     
  6. linnasak

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    Yes 1.3 as wanted to use in non bat cave. Can't see any faults at all in image, it just makes me think I have new projector. Researched quite hard with contact in U.S.
    See extract below:
    THX calculations are based on horizontal and vertical subtended angles.
    Is is typically the width that is the issue, so I would just target
    1.2-1.5x the screen width for optimal seating distance.

    THX ideal for height is that your eyes are in the lower 1/3 of the image.
    That is to say that 1/3 of the viewable falls below the viewer's eyes and
    2/3 above.

    The StudioTek 130 G3 requires the lens be at least 1.3x the screen width.
    Higher gain screens have more restrictive placement to prevent
    hot-spotting and brightness uniformity issues.
    This is the order in which we use to assist clients with determining
    the
    right screen size for their room:
    1) Wall real-estate
    • Can’t have a screen larger than the wall will support
    2) Room Depth
    • Projector throw ratio needs to support room depth/screen size
    3) Seating distance
    • THX recommendations are to sit such that your eyes are 1.5x the
    screen
    width based on horizontal and vertical subtended angles
    • Good calculator:
    Viewing Distance Calculator
    • Multiple rows of seating adds a layer of complication. With two rows
    a
    good recommendation is to use the middle between the two rows as the
    1.5x
    measurement such that Row 1 is a little too "close" and Row2 is a
    little
    too "far" back. While you aren't using 2 rows necessarily, there is
    some
    value to extract here. In my theater, for example, I have 2 rows and
    made
    the middle THX ideal. The front row is 11.75 ft from a 130" 16:9
    screen
    (eye balls) and the back about 17.75 ft. Most people, including
    myself,
    prefer the front row. The THX number is a bit conservative and we
    recommend you sit so your eyes are between about 1.2 to 1.5x the screen
    width.

    Lastly, there is a sanity check to ensure you have the right foot
    lamberts. If you are able to go larger based on the above, but your
    projector isn't bright enough to handle that size screen, you can have
    a
    problem as well. Most of the time, however, this is a non issue. It
    is
    worth keeping in mind though.

    Have noticed that image looks really good on 2.35 zoomed out, may set different brightness etc for 16:9.

    Watched starship troopers on it from sky live broadcast and just thought image was stunning, even logos looked sharper and more detailed.

    One thing to remember though if you look at secondhand is the 130 material has changed over the years, but it's longevity as a reference says it all. Also took comfort that this material often used by projector manufacturers to demo their kit.

    Further quality I noted over my old cheap screen is that viewing area is perfectly square. Just looks so sharp. If interested in new Stewart worth checking their web site as to choice of materials. Bat cave then perhaps go to 1.0 but then lose the wow factor when there is some ambient light or like me you have some light wall or ceiling. Did go with black case which I think also helps with reflections and gives image improvement, although the Ferrari red did look cool.

    Hope the above helps

    Kevin
     

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