Teac DR-H300DAB Design Faults/Problems

Vilaubas

Standard Member
well I've put the old one back in and it's still not playing the game, it mostly just comes up as LOAD and keeps the CD or DVD turning no matter what (I presume because the software doesn't see it step on to the next function, ie menu) anyway the only way to get it to do anything is to eject the disc or change the function, which sometimes does and sometimes doesn't do anything (mostly it just sits there turning) sometimes the OPU does try to look for the start but never finds it and gives up after a couple of attempts (strangely it slows to a stop and then if it feels like it, has another go at spinning up and searching).
Ocasionally it doesn't even try to load the disc, it neither turns or tries to read, I did notice the laser stays on sometimes when I have to eject it when it's just turning (the screen is saying LOAD but the OPU isn't trying to track or anything) so I presum eit is indeed stuck trying to do something.
I've had another go at prodding and waggling all the connections I can see, thinking it may be a power issie to do with the player?, no luck though.
Suggestions??
 
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newcoppiceman

Active Member
Vilaubas - Your description is familiar as some of it is reminiscent of how my original OPU started behaving with some CDs - with most it was ok. Send me your details via PM and I'll send you my original OPU - just return it when done.

As to suggestions, try as wide a selection of CDs and DVDs as you can because you may just find one that the system will read and play ok.

My money is still on everything working ok - except your OPUs!

Re the two adjustments I'll dig out the 28-page specification I have for the SF-HD65 OPU (which even tells you how to hold it properly) as this includes a circuit diagram and with the help of a magnifying glass (or my USB microscope) I'll examine the OPU and try and answer your questions!
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Having carefully examined and measured the original OPU removed from my DR-H300DAB after it started having problems with some CDs late 2008 (replaced Jan 2009) and with reference to the following picture:

Teac DR-H300DAB DVD loader underside on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

I can report the following:

Upper adjustment: DVD - measured resistance: 2.50kohm (current from serial #: 31mA)
Lower adjustment: CD - measured resistance: 1.235kohm (current from serial #: 32mA)

Viewed as in the picture, clockwise rotation decreases the resistance and therefore increases the laser current. These adjustments are preset in manufacture and should not need adjustment but if adjusting, increase current with caution as laser life is likely to be reduced.
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Vilaubas - ok, have checked the OPU I removed from my original DR-H300DAB in Jan 09 in my spare DR-H300DAB and it's still behaving as it did when removed, ie absolutely no problem playing DVDs, but temperamental with CDs - may play ok; may play with problems; may not be able to read ToC after loading, it all depends on the particular CD.

Will hopefully post today (Thu, 14 Jan) - I've included the handling precautions from the OPU's spec sheet.

Handle/install carefully, don't forget to remove the shorting solder blob, and hopefully it'll work as above in your unit.
 

arthur_35

Standard Member
Hello,

Sorry for my late answer.
The screw I changed was the upper one ... I thought it was the CD one, not the dvd.
I've Turned it 90° anticlockwise.
CD plays fine, but dvd stops after 30'.
Maybe indeed I changed the wrong one.

Newcoppiceman, where did you have the documentation ? the one I've found didn't mention the screws role.
 
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newcoppiceman

Active Member
Arthur_35 - the OPU spec at:

http://www.partmate.com/download/OPU/SF-HD65.pdf

includes a circuit diagram (the various functions of the pins on the 24-way flexiprint connector described there tally with the circuit diagram of the DVD board in the DR-H300DAB service manual, which is reassuring). I used a digital multimeter to identify which variable resistor was which - and to measure their settings (resistances).

The OPU spec explains how the laser currents are included in the two serial numbers for each OPU (there are two stickers - one for the CD part, one for the DVD part).

Hope that helps.
 

Vilaubas

Standard Member
Hi Again NewCoppiceMan, just back and saw your OPU had arrived, I'll take off the solder and give it a go.
 
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Vilaubas

Standard Member
well I've removed the blob of solder and tried your OPU NewCoppiceMan and it's much the same as mine, it'll try to load a CD but will never see the start and just spins away ad infinitum, a DVD comes up as NO DISC straight away.
I do think we are on the 'right track' if you'll pardon the pun and think I'll have another go with my old one, as Arthur mentioned regarding the adjustment of the screws on the OPU (pots?), I've not got anything to lose as it doesn't work anyway.

RE: your OPU would it be easier if I paid whatever you think it's worth via paypay or send you a cheque?, as I've handled it (and quite honestly didn't do too good a job on the solder blob that didn't want to come off) I'd rather pay for it if it's OK with you.

going to have a go at twiddling the screws tomorrow and I'll let you know how I get on, let me know what you think.
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Vilaubas - The OPU won't work unless you remove the solder blob which shorts three terminals together to protect the lasers from static discharge during storage/transit.

I'll put a piccy on:

Flickr: newcoppiceman's Photostream

shortly so you can see where the blob is.

Use a low-to-medium power (eg 12 or 15W) soldering iron with a small bit and something called Solderwick or desoldering braid. Once the solder is molten, the braid (available from the likes of Maplin) will suck it up to reveal the three pads - check they really are now unshorted with a magnifying glass, then you're good to go. Leave this step as late as you can, ideally after fitting to the DVD loader and you've done handling the OPU (hold by the edges). Don't apply too much heat to the board - the iron should only need to contact it for a few seconds.

"Re-blob" the pads before removing the OPU from the loader.

Good luck!
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Vilaubas - I think my last post was bashed-off as you sent your last one! I was replying to a message I received via e-mail notification which I think you must have deleted from the forum as, at that time, you couldn't find the blob - hence my reply. (I'll post the piccy anyway for others' benefit.)

Don't worry about the state of the OPU - it probably looks worse than it is and will clean up with a squirt of flux remover. It probably still "works" ok and is more use to me as a test spare (for exercises like this) than the cash, so just send it back as is please (when you're sure having it is no longer going to help).

That my OPU doesn't fix your fault (wheras it "works" ok in both my units) does suggest a problem other than with the OPU. It could be the DVD loader, or maybe it's the DVD decoder board after all. Unfortunately this is at the bottom of the "stack" of PCBs in the unit, but if you could take a photo of the board - especially any board ID, issue number, etc - you might consider sending to me to try in either or both of my units.

I mention a photo because I couldn't relate the board described in the service manual to the one in at least one of my units, so I suspect there's more than one version!
 

Vilaubas

Standard Member
yes, you're quite right, I did delete the post I had written, after I got no joy with your OPU I had a look at the PDF of the instructions you posted and re-read your post re the solder blob (I'd wrongly presumed it didn't have one as it was your spare) and had a revelation that I hadn't checked to see it was in fact on!, anyway I took it off with my rather brutal soldering iron and in doing so smudged the solder on the contacts, I didn't want to try to put any more heat into it to try to tidy it up in case I cooked it! (hence my preferrence for sending you the cost of one)
I'l send your OPU back with thanks and try to get some joy from adjusting the one I bought, it may be I'll chance my hand with buying another one as they're so cheap to just try.
board wise... well I haven't really got the time to delve into it so deeply (off to work tomorrow for 2 weeks) so it may be I buy another player after all.

pretty glum it didn't work though
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Well, even I haven't got as far as pulling out the boards on these units but it looks like they would come out without too much trouble - though it would be worth noting how things are connected or taking pictures as you go. But you're right; there's a time to call a halt to these things and maybe you've reached that stage!

I have to say that I think getting another OPU risks chucking good money after bad as if the rest of your DR-H300DAB is working ok my OPU should have worked fine - at least with DVDs, and much of the time with CDs.

Incidentally, re my other recent thread, is your volume control's range from min, 1, 2... to ...61, 62, max? I am currently in dialogue with Princeton Technology Corp who make the PT2314 audio processor IC used for input selection/volume/loudness/frequency shaping, etc as to why my spare DR-H300DAB's range is min, 1, 2... to...29, 30, max. Very odd.

And... I've recently noticed that it plays a clip on a test DVD that I have differently to my main unit. The clip is recorded as "true" video, ie each picture is composed of two interlaced fields taken 1/50s apart, rather than the ubiquitous "film mode" in which, either because the original scene was captured on film or - more likely - video material from a television camera has been processed to make it look like film, each picture is composed of two interlaced fields effectively taken at the same time. (So "the film look" is actually a low definition version - in the temporal, if not the spatial, domain - which, for cultural reasons, we apparently prefer!) My main unit plays the clip as video, the spare as film.

The Teac DR-H300DAB - the DVD receiver that keeps on giving!

Would you buy another DR-H300DAB or would you try the new DR-H358i? Incidentally, if you decide to junk your DR-H300DAB I would consider making you an offer for it as a source of spares.
 
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Vilaubas

Standard Member
My volume goes to MAX at 30, as you say the boards do look easy to remove and replace, and have a nicely made, logical layout, certainly straightforward enough to have a go with should you have the inclination, however I'm feeling burned by the unit quite frankly, I usually buy panasonic and have never had a problem with anything electrical, (not sure if this is a little luck or just treating electrical goods with a degree of respect and care), so getting another TEAC would'nt be high on the list, the new model doesn't seem to be significantly different to the old model, except for an ipod connection which I really don't need, I was hoping for a revamped model that had a better user interface (which quite frankly on the TV is awful) not sure if the new one does have any improvements here as I haven't looked into it that much.

Video wise, I've always used the HDMI output and have had no sync or jitter problems, I used to play a mix of DVD and CD and pretty much it did what it said on the tin.
The picture wasn't outstanding though, I always thought my old panasonic plasma fed with component was superior to the HDMI (to a panasonic LCD) but not enough to start changing cables, good but not stunning.

My biggest problem is there doesn't seem to be a compact, one box system that does the same things as the TEAC... however if one does come along (and I'm allowed to get it) I'll certainly let you have my unit.
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
That's interesting - your volume is only 32-step too; it should be 64-step as the IC's data sheet - and an engineer form Princeton Technology - confirms. My main unit is 64-step, my spare 32-step and we noticed difficulty in setting the volume just where we wanted when we used the spare for a while. 64 is 1.25dB per step, 32 is 2.5dB per step (which is a bit coarse). Both my units say they're running "Customer vC3.4" software - and I bet yours says the same (in DAB or FM mode pressing the INFO/REPEAT button for more than 2s - unit will display "System Reset", press it again and it will display the software version).

No surprise that you're suffering Teac fatigue - I think you've done well to get as far as you have. Like you, I'm not convinced about the DR-H358i - and they've whacked the price up (the DR-H300DAB was under £300 when it came out). Trouble is, like you say, there seems to be no rival to the Teacs - in terms of either functionality or form-factor.

I worked for nearly 30 years for national TV broadcasters on the engineering side and I'm insisting we stick with CRT technology for a while yet as this is still the gold standard for real pictures (rather than cartoons) - I even have two spare 28" widescreens CRTs in the loft - so we use Scart RGB into our Panasonic TV. I've heard bad reports about the HDMI output on the DR-H300DAB but have never used it myself. HD would, of course, force a move to flat screen, but is a bit of a waste for a 28" screen and we don't really want anything bigger.
 

Vilaubas

Standard Member
well I haven't bought into the HD bandwagon myself, I do think my (now) old PW6 fed with component is as good as I need and still visually stunning, like megapixel cameras I feel HD is a manufacturer driven upgrade, flat screens are soooo convenient though, pity they're so far behind the picture quality of CRT, but there you go, a trade off.

not sure where I'll go with the teac, I'm thinking of getting a micro DVD player and sitting it on top, at least the kids will be able to watch the occasional DVD and I can copy music onto the USB.

Just checked and I am running V3.4
forgot to say I didn't experience any clipping of tracks on CD's either.
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Interesting you didn't experience the fraction of a second's clipping at the start of many - but by no means all - CD tracks. I've just bought an optical SPDIF cable to check this output from the Teac via the ADS Tech RDX-150-EF USB to analogue/SPDIF interface box I have.

I've posted a circuit of the audio path from the MT1389HD "DVD system-on-a-chip" IC to the Scart socket on:

Flickr: newcoppiceman's Photostream
 

hlmrtn

Standard Member
Hello,

I'm new owner of this precious piece of hardware and do experience the same problems.

My main trouble is CD's. The player is very picky and plays just some 2 out of 10 CD's or so.

My question is, if you change the OPO for new SF-HD65 does it read all your CD's including the burned ones?

Thanks

By the way I do experience clicking sounds while playing CD's and have only 30 steps volume regulation
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Welcome to the thread hlmrtn.

Is your unit brand new or "previously enjoyed" (eg off eBay)? I'm afraid I don't burn my own CDs; I've only ever played commercial CDs. I can, however, well imagine that home-burnt CDs could open a whole new can of worms as regards reliability of playback on the DR-H300DAB.

What is the CD play problem? Won't read the table-of-contents (ToC)/recognise as a CD when first loaded, or plays tracks intermittently? Clicking sounds while playing CDs is a new one on me - does this happen with commercial CDs or just home-burnt?

Just to be clear, the Sanyo SF-HD65 OPU is the type fitted to these units in production and a replacement is the first port-of-call if experiencing CD or DVD playback problems, especially if all had been well before.

Thanks for the feedback about the volume steps: MIN,1,2...29,30,MAX makes up the 32-steps (2-to-the-power-5) whereas it should be 64-steps (2-to-the-power-6); the IC which does the audio processing is controlled by a serial data bus which sends binary data to set the parameters.

For more on the volume steps issue - and a related one, I think - please see my latest thread:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/all-...lling-teac-dr-h300dab-owners-check-yours.html
 

hlmrtn

Standard Member
Hello,
I have got it on ebay. It was on sale as refurbished and boxed. All is probably true as it looks brand new.
As for the CD’s it is hard to persuade it to play any burnt CD’s at all. When I put the CD in it spins for a while and then the display says NODISC. I have tried many (maybe 10 or so) burnt CD’s and it played just about two of them and not every time. I have only few commercial CD’s but the unit does not seem to have problems with loading them and playing them. So far I have not listened to the CD’s properly as I do not have speakers yet, should get them this week though. When I get the speakers I shall investigate the source of the clicking thoroughly.
Please let me know in case you try any burnt CD on your unit and it works, so that I would know that it is worth it to change the OPU. I have tried to fiddle with the screws on the OPU but got the best results in their original position.
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
hlmrtn - I suspect your unit is reading CDs ok and there's an issue with the exact formatting of the home-burnt ones. I've always regarded the various CD and DVD recording formats as a bit of a minefield as to what will or won't play on what and have kept well away from disc recording - so far.

You're welcome to send me a home-burnt CD to try in both my units, if that's any help.

Is the clicking with CDs a mechanical noise, or have you listened via the phones socket so far?

Here's a reminder of known issues with the DR-H300DAB for when you give your unit a full checkout:

- Noticeable hum and buzz, and clicks when changing sources, on the phones output (unaffected by volume setting and mute status);

- Non-random mutes of up to 5s on DAB while listening to any service on the BBC multiplex caused by the broadcaster changing the transmitted bitrate on any service, which they do quite often (doesn't have to be the one you're listening to);

- Start of some tracks on some (commercial) CDs may be clipped by a fraction of a second when playing CDs from start to finish (skip back may play the affected track ok);

- Volume steps should number 64, but may be 32;

- True video DVDs play as film effect;

- HDMI video is poor (no personal experience of this, though - we use Scart RGB, which is fine).

Brave of you to twiddle with the OPU settings - good that you reset them, I think.
 

hlmrtn

Standard Member
Hi,

I have decided to try out your theory and burnet some CD’s on different settings, but with no luck. The unit seems not to like burnet CD’s. Can send you the CD’s if want to try.

However, I have discovered another innate flaw of the unit (and believe not just mine) you do not mention in your post.

- If you listen to mp3’s from a USB on earphones you hear two distinct clicks between songs.

When I found out about it made me really angry as I had planned to use USB for playing music. Still do not have speakers so do not know whether it does the same clicks, so there is still hope but to be honest I’m not too optimistic. It seems that the unit will be declassed to the role of mere amplifier for my mp3 player and PC, which is sad.
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
I've hardly ever used the USB port, but I dug out the memory stick on which I have two MP3 tracks recorded, played them on one of my DR-H300DABs and, yes, there is a glitch or two between the tracks, although it wasn't particularly loud. Another instance of this "neat-but-flawed" product's somewhat rough edges.

I do hope that Teac have smoothed some of these off in the DR-H358i - its successor, but as Teac's policy seems to be one of always denying any flaws with their products, it makes it a bit difficult for them to trumpet that particular problems with an earlier generation product have been successfully addressed in a later one!
 

newcoppiceman

Active Member
Good news, hlmrtn!

When I checked MP3 playback via the USB port (see previous post) I was using earphones.

With the house to myself this morning (and the dog in the garden!) I repeated the test using the speakers at as loud a volume as I could bear - I heard no glitches between the MP3 tracks (just the noise floor of the incoming track from the original source material - just before I was deafened).

I think this is another example of system "noise" affecting the phones output only - a grounding, wiring or PCB layout problem with the PT2309 headphone amplifier IC which the DR-H300DAB uses (it's mounted on the CPU board which is almost certainly an electrically "noisy" environment).

See posts passim about the hum/buzz and clicks-when-changing-sources problem (on phones output only) which I noticed within minutes of unpacking my first DR-H300DAB in autumn 2007.
 

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