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Tado smart thermostat

terryf

Member
I have a radiator thermostat in my kitchen which, according to the graph, is constantly opening and closing. The door is never closed but it opens into the hall which is controlled at 20c. Could this be the reason for the weird graph?
I have found the problem, the thermostat was very close to a small gap in the kitchen cupboards. I have plugged the gap with foam insulating material. Now radiator operates same as all the others.
 

Deezell

Active Member
I've just picked up a Tado (TRV) starter pack from Amazon....We actually already have Hive for controlling the heating, but it's very basic in that the thermostat is in the lounge so that room controls the temperature of the whole system, which means a couple of the bedrooms can get very hot when we're chilly downstairs and keep it on higher. My intention with the Tado was to use them solely to set a maximum temperature in our bedroom and the nursery so when the heating is on they shouldn't go above the specified temperature in those two rooms, in that when Hive has the heating kicking out heat, the Tado TRVs in those two rooms should stop the rooms getting too hot.

Am I correcting in thinking that this should work? They can run independantly of Hive, they'll just have no effect when the heating is off or lower than the Tado specified temperatures?
This will work as you say. It's worth noting that you can use any mechanical TRV to cap a room temperature if it is warming beyond the main stat setting. Upstairs bedrooms in particular will have the heat from under the floor plus rising warm air up the stairs in addition to the room rads. Very cost effective if you have a lot of upstairs rads. The big advantage smart TRVs such as tado give you is the ability to have variable temperature caps over the day, so you can for example turn the bedroom rads off altogether as soon as everyone is up, and just heat the ground floor if required. You can bring the bedrooms back in at different times and at different temperatures depending on your needs, assuming the Hive is firing at that time.
It would be inexpensive to change the Hive stat for a Tado, which would give your TRVs the ability to fire the boiler, as you only need purchase the stat. You will already have a Tado bridge with the TRV starter kit. The standalone stat goes for £99, maybe less on Amazon.
 

Stevie G

Active Member
Thanks for the advice deezell, I may look into that. We're due to have the old boiler and tanks replaced with an unvented system soon so that may be a good time to do that too
 

Deezell

Active Member
Thanks for the advice deezell, I may look into that. We're due to have the old boiler and tanks replaced with an unvented system soon so that may be a good time to do that too
Your radiators will need to have TRV valve body on end to fit a TRV head, smart or otherwise. The boiler refurb would be a good time to do this
 

Sebastalona

Distinguished Member

Ezio Comi

Novice Member
Hi, it's possible to switch off tado ?
Which is latest firmware ? 47.9 ?

I have 47.8 for bridge v3 and 47.9 for Tado


Thank you
 

Deezell

Active Member
From the app tap the manual temperature bar to bring up manual options, and tap the little blue slide switch to the right of the label 'Heating'
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
Ive just received my v3 thermostat starter pack, two additional thermostats and the extension kit.

Currently i have a 4 zone timer and stats for upstairs and downstairs....

Ive screwed off the upstairs stat, to find black, brown and grey wires. Not too sure where to put these on new stat but if someone can tell me what should go on new stat then i should be able to bell out wires from stat to timer to determine what they are.

Ive also got bridge ready but i don't want it cluttering up my hub in the hall..

I have wiring centre in my attic, can i locate bridge in my attic connected to ethernet switch?
 

bigjb

Well-known Member
Ive just received my v3 thermostat starter pack, two additional thermostats and the extension kit.

Currently i have a 4 zone timer and stats for upstairs and downstairs....

Ive screwed off the upstairs stat, to find black, brown and grey wires. Not too sure where to put these on new stat but if someone can tell me what should go on new stat then i should be able to bell out wires from stat to timer to determine what they are.

Ive also got bridge ready but i don't want it cluttering up my hub in the hall..

I have wiring centre in my attic, can i locate bridge in my attic connected to ethernet switch?
Did you follow the online install guide where you input the boiler make and model along with the previous thermostat make and model as that should advise what wires go where.
 
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MJC UK

Well-known Member
Ive just received my v3 thermostat starter pack, two additional thermostats and the extension kit.

Currently i have a 4 zone timer and stats for upstairs and downstairs....

Ive screwed off the upstairs stat, to find black, brown and grey wires. Not too sure where to put these on new stat but if someone can tell me what should go on new stat then i should be able to bell out wires from stat to timer to determine what they are.

Ive also got bridge ready but i don't want it cluttering up my hub in the hall..

I have wiring centre in my attic, can i locate bridge in my attic connected to ethernet switch?
So have you got a mixture of wired and wireless stats then?

I only had wireless so only needed to install the extension kit. In that instance

Blue = N
Brown = L
Lighter grey = 1
Dark grey = 4

You should be able to plug the bridge in to your Ethernet Switch I’d guess, so long as that connects to your router and is within range of the extension kit and you also have a USB slot or a plug to power it
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
I will get model number of oil burner now and check things out. Another thing Ive just seen is everywhere it says the extension kit will replace a dual zone programmer...

But my programmer is 4 zone, is it not going to work then?

I have a thermostat upstairs and downstairs, hot water stat. I have a detached 2 story garage which is the fourth zone, but electrician forgot to wire in thermostat. Im hoping i can add a tado thermostat wirelessly.
 

Deezell

Active Member
I will get model number of oil burner now and check things out. Another thing Ive just seen is everywhere it says the extension kit will replace a dual zone programmer...

But my programmer is 4 zone, is it not going to work then?

I have a thermostat upstairs and downstairs, hot water stat. I have a detached 2 story garage which is the fourth zone, but electrician forgot to wire in thermostat. Im hoping i can add a tado thermostat wirelessly.
The Tado ext kit will fit straight onto a 2 zone CH/HW programmer plate only. The easiest way to connect your system is to wire the two new stats in place of the existing zone stats. Leave the old controller in charge of timing for HW and garage, and set the timing for the house zones to Always On. Later, Install the extension kit next to the zone valves for the HW and the garage zone. Install the remaining stat in the garage and pair wirelessly to the ext kit. Use the realay contacts on the ext kit to operate the zone valves for the HW and Garage by disconnecting the timer lives coming from the old 4 zone controller and reconnect to the ext kit NO contacts, with the ext kit jumper in 2 zone position. The HW timing will be configured as part of this new stat/ ext kit combination. At this point you can hard wire the Always On voltages going from the controller to the two new house Tados, and remove the old 4 zone timer controller. This plan will allow you to easily get your house heating zones up and running first, and by using the wireless stat connectivity for the new garage stat you will not need to run cables from the garage zone valve, which I assume is in house boiler area, to the stat which will be located in the garage.
 
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scotster

Standard Member
So is anyone actually using the set-up of a TRV not connected to a rad as the temp measuring device for a zone rather than an additional thermostat?

I asked Tado support about this, given that the tech article says that any device can be set to be the measuring device, and am getting unconvincing replies of "Unfortunately, we don't recommend having that setting." and when pushed; "..although it sounds logical, we don't recommend it because we cannot guarantee a proper performance.".
I picked up a new Smart Radiator stat. off ebay and have just set it up as a measuring device for a room with another Smart radiator stat in it. Seems to work a treat and cheaper than buying a smart thermostat. I thought it would look goofy sat on a shelf but it looks pretty fine and if I were to butcher it fully and cut the threaded collar off the bottom it wolud really look the part! ;-)
 

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me_here

Active Member
Thanks for taking one for the team!

Will definately consider doing that myself. Perhaps if Tado has not fobbed me off I would have dived in on the multipack offer to the tune of 12 TVRs. As the offer is now over I’ll leave it over the summer and see if I can pick up some bargains.
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
Thanks Deezell for your advice. I now have my downstairs and upstairs tado thermostats installed. How come max temp is 25 degrees, my old ones went to 35 degrees?

I will tackle the extension kit and garage thermostat next week.

So when I get extension kit done with wireless garage stat, do I have option to use central heating in manual mode. For example if my broadband is down can I still turn my oil off/on etc
 

Deezell

Active Member
Thanks Deezell for your advice. I now have my downstairs and upstairs tado thermostats installed. How come max temp is 25 degrees, my old ones went to 35 degrees?

I will tackle the extension kit and garage thermostat next week.

So when I get extension kit done with wireless garage stat, do I have option to use central heating in manual mode. For example if my broadband is down can I still turn my oil off/on etc
I suppose with the emphasis on energy saving, it would be odd to have a stat that would allow a room heat to 35°. Comfortable temperature is 21-22°, 25° would be very warm.
All tado stats, wired or via the ext. kit, are dependent on an internet connection for the app to work, and if d'internet goes down will remain on the last scheduled event until connection is restored. With the V3 bridge however, it is possible to interact with the stat using Apple homekit or possibly Google home, which registers the bridge as a device on your home network, independent of internet connection. I have V2 so perhaps someone else can confirm this. There's only been one Tado server outage for about 12 hours overnight, last Sept. I think. I recall that manual adjustment locally wasn't available. This has nothing to do with having a wired or wireless stat via the ext. Kit.
 

Deezell

Active Member
I’m also presuming you cannot have the display always on the v3 stat?
It's only the bridge that changed in V3 afaik, stat is the same. V3 bridge allows local network access for 3rd party interfaces.
The display turns off to prolong battery life according to Tado info. You just have to tap the button to get a read, but who bothers when it's on your phone all the time. If you want you can set up a cheap £60-80 android tablet device on a table stand and have the Tado app permanently on display. You could even wall mount it and have touch screen control of your stat, or display all your stats if you use the browser version and tile each stat/timer window. 3 stats and HW would fill a 10" nicely with 4 quadrants. Now there's a little project.
 

adrianse

Novice Member
Please be aware as the latest V3 bridge is not working correct with many switches especially the managed one in my case netgar and cisco.

You can try to test your bridge by keep the bridge powered but only reboot the switch to confirm if the bridge is reconnecting.

The tado support team are aware about this issue and even reproduced it , however no action has been taken to resolve this issue in one year now.

The new bridge is negotiating only 10 Mpbs - half duplex and not 100 Mpbs - full duplex as the v2 version.

I currently returned to the V2 bridge as can’t trust the new one as my system lost connectivity multiple times.



 

davidegee

Well-known Member
I picked up a new Smart Radiator stat. off ebay and have just set it up as a measuring device for a room with another Smart radiator stat in it. Seems to work a treat and cheaper than buying a smart thermostat. I thought it would look goofy sat on a shelf but it looks pretty fine and if I were to butcher it fully and cut the threaded collar off the bottom it wolud really look the part! ;-)
I don't think you don't need the radiator fitting part for it to act as a measuring device, so you can just leave it off
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
Cant seem to get tado to work on my alexa echo. Ive added the tado skill and you can now see my two thermostats, upstairs and downstairs in the alexa app but no voice control.

Ive said to alexa to discover devices, turn downstairs thermostat to 22 degrees, she replies back she cant find downstairs thermostat.
 

redbulluk33

Standard Member
Cant seem to get tado to work on my alexa echo. Ive added the tado skill and you can now see my two thermostats, upstairs and downstairs in the alexa app but no voice control.

Ive said to alexa to discover devices, turn downstairs thermostat to 22 degrees, she replies back she cant find downstairs thermostat.
I use the IFTTT app (I have android device so just got off Google Play but suspect it's also on Apple). There you can then link in your Echo and Tado accounts. You can then setup specific IFTTTs with particular phases that you want.

Not tried the Alexa skill but the IFTTT works perfectly
 

scotster

Standard Member
I don't think you don't need the radiator fitting part for it to act as a measuring device, so you can just leave it off
Good Point! I needed to fit it to go through the calibration routine but now I have removed it. I had to fit some felt pads as the valve rod protrudes from the bottom. I think it is less obtrusive than a wall wart. Happy days.
 

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Deezell

Active Member
What Tado really need to do is manufacture this stat in 2 parts, main part on the rad with the motor and batteries, Clip off part with the measuring thermistor, display and a very low power short range link back to the motorised valve. That would sell I'm sure
 

me_here

Active Member
That would sell I'm sure
Yep it would, and would be a vast improvement.

Trouble is that their current stuff seems to be selling as fast as the factory can churn it out* so there is no pressure on them to develop anything better at this point.

*This is an assumption based on their sometime long lead times, total reluctance to offer meaningful discounts and price that used stuff goes for on eBay.
 

Garioch

Well-known Member
The Danfoss RA adapter supplied by Tado isn't that great. My radiator valve keeps coming off and stripping the plastic threads. Just ordered a metal adapter; reviews have been positive with many claiming that the Tado radiator valves are significantly more secure.

I did manage to eventually secure the radiator valve (for a while) but after a few weeks, it started to strip the threads again.

Fingers crossed the metal adapter works when it arrives.
 

AndyBlac644

Novice Member
has anyone found a way, to use the tado TVR's as a dumb TRV ie stop them calling for heat but allow the rad to heat up room a temp via schedule, but only when another device has called for heat.

I have a room I wish to keep at maximum temp of 18˙c, but I do not want it calling for heat if rad is bellow this, but allow room to be heated if another device is calling for heat.

I think tado should add a simple check box to their schedules "Allow call for heat" yes/no.

what you guy's think ?

Andy.
 

Deezell

Active Member
has anyone found a way, to use the tado TVR's as a dumb TRV ie stop them calling for heat but allow the rad to heat up room a temp via schedule, but only when another device has called for heat.

I have a room I wish to keep at maximum temp of 18˙c, but I do not want it calling for heat if rad is bellow this, but allow room to be heated if another device is calling for heat.

I think tado should add a simple check box to their schedules "Allow call for heat" yes/no.

what you guy's think ?

Andy.
In the first instance you could just add a normal TRV head on the rad, as you don't need the boiler to ever respond to the room temperature. Alternatively you could install the TRV in Community heating mode, whereby it just opens and closes, and assumes the flow of hot water past it is constant from a central source. You will need to get Tado support to set the TRV up like this, as I think the default for a zone is always to have the primary main stat which was paired first as the switching device for a subsequent secondary zone.
If you were setting up from scratch, and added a TRV as the first device on the system it would effectively set up in Community heating mode. If you then add a normal stat it becomes a secondary zone device I think. You can buy starter kits with just a bridge and TRVs, so it should be possible. You can't delete the main stat from the home though once it's been paired. Contact support.
 

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