SVS SB3000 pair - how to connect?

mjennings65

Standard Member
Help from those who know! I have a Denon X6700h AVR and feed to a Emotiva XSP-1Gen2 pre-amp to musical fidelity Poweramp for L&R front channels.

I use this setup with Home Theatre bypass setting for movies using all channels & AVR off with pre-amp & power amp fed by streamed FLAC to quality ladder DAC for music on L&R floor standers only.

How can I connect a pair of SVS SB3000’s to play LFE for movies & to ‘fill out bass’ for music on 2 channel only when not using the AVR?

What physical cable connections should I use from AVR to subs & from Pre-amp to subs for music?

I’m sure the SVS app will be helpful for setup - can you create saved/different profiles, say one for music & one for movies (Atmos).

Any insight/explanation greatly received as I’m a novice with subs.
 

martin 39

Well-known Member
Looking to do this myself with arendal sub i believe you need to use the other output on the sub to a line input on the amp with a splitters
 

TB Rich

Active Member
The problem with dual connecting the AVR and the pre-amp to a sub, is the AVR requires the sub set to LFE (or at least a crossover higher than the AVR is set to) - where as music is going to want a crossover set on the sub, much lower at typically say 40-60hz depending on your mains of course. It’s a hassle/extra step to switch between the 2 settings on the sub and does present risk if you forget and send a full range signal from your pre-amp to the sub too!

I would suggest getting a miniDSP for the music side, so take your L/R pre-outs from the Hifi pre-amp to the miniDSP, and then you can set the crossover on that (also do a lot more too for integration if required).
This means the AVR has it’s crossover, the hifi (via the miniDSP) has it’s crossover - and the sub can be simply left in LFE mode safely.

In terms of connections then it can depend on where the subs are located and if you are going to treat them as stereo or mono.
If they are located by each main L/R speaker then for Hifi I’d personally run them as stereo. For AVR I’d use them as mono regardless of position.

In the stereo subs position scenario, I’d connect the Left pre-out of the Hifi to miniDSP input 1, and route it to miniDSP output 1 - connect that to one of sub 1’s RCA inputs. And of course for the Right pre-out from the Hifi, connect to miniDSP input 2 and route that to its output 2, and connect that to sub 2’s RCA.
AVR connections then simply connect the AVR sub 1 output to sub 1’s other LFE RCA input, and the AVR sub 2 output to sub 2’s in the same way.

This ensures that if playing a movie, the subs operate basically exactly as you no doubt have them now. And any signal that goes via HT bypass and then out the pre-amp is getting ‘caught’ by the miniDSP and a crossover applied before hitting the sub - so there’s no chance of a full range signal reaching the sub.
For music use, should be pretty obvious that the AVR isn’t sending anything as it will be off, and the miniDSP with it’s crossover (and respective timing/PEQ if you go down that road) will be applied so no full range signal reaches the sub, despite being left in LFE mode.

This approach ensures you don’t have to mess with any app profiles anywhere or settings on the sub, and never risking full range signal reaching the sub.

If your subs are not setup like a stereo pair next to your mains, then physically you still connect as above, but in the miniDSP instead of routing Left/Right inputs from the pre-amp to a separate output on the miniDSP, instead you can sum them inside the miniDSP and treat them as mono. The miniDSP again providing a toolset to ensure you get them setup and timed properly to your mains.

No doubt some other ways, but I do similar ish setup with a single sub and have zero issues with integration on either side (movie or Hifi use).
I’m debating getting a second sub if I can re-jig my gear about a bit to make room where a second sub would add value, and I would setup as described having pondered this dual use setup for a while!
 

Mr Wolf

Well-known Member
Personally I'd put a physical RCA switch (or switches as required) like this between the subs and the two amps and use the SVS App's presets for Movies and Music to store the two configurations. I've found various used for these simple gadgets over the years.

Amazon product
 

TB Rich

Active Member
Personally I'd put a physical RCA switch (or switches as required) like this between the subs and the two amps and use the SVS App's presets for Movies and Music to store the two configurations. I've found various used for these simple gadgets over the years.

Amazon product

Problem with that is you need to physically switch the box and set a respective app profile for each usage type. It is a pain trust me, I have to do this exact setup now (I use a Schiit SYS as RCA switcher, and miniDSP configs via the app) and it’s a pain. There’s also an element of risk if you didn’t set the app (either the SVS app or miniDSP) correctly and you pump a full range signal to the sub. Mistakes happen sometimes.
I find I’m listening a little less to music recently because of this slightly convoluted setup of switching a box and grabbing my phone to open the app etc, all just to play some music.

For me I have to do it this way due to an AVR with no EQ and therefore needing the miniDSP for it, as well as the pre-amp for Hifi. With only having 2 inputs on the miniDSP I need the RCA switcher, and with both sources sharing the miniDSP (or in your example both sources needing to share the subs onboard settings) - I need to switch configs.

With the luxury of a good AVR with EQ and 2 subs, then done as I describe in the previous post the OP doesn’t need to mess with any apps and RCA switch boxes, just leave everything as-is and play the source you want :) Simpier, safer. And of course you’re going to get a way better setup once you use the miniDSP properly to integrate with the mains for Hifi use. For £250 it’s a no-brainier.
 

mjennings65

Standard Member
The problem with dual connecting the AVR and the pre-amp to a sub, is the AVR requires the sub set to LFE (or at least a crossover higher than the AVR is set to) - where as music is going to want a crossover set on the sub, much lower at typically say 40-60hz depending on your mains of course. It’s a hassle/extra step to switch between the 2 settings on the sub and does present risk if you forget and send a full range signal from your pre-amp to the sub too!

I would suggest getting a miniDSP for the music side, so take your L/R pre-outs from the Hifi pre-amp to the miniDSP, and then you can set the crossover on that (also do a lot more too for integration if required).
This means the AVR has it’s crossover, the hifi (via the miniDSP) has it’s crossover - and the sub can be simply left in LFE mode safely.

In terms of connections then it can depend on where the subs are located and if you are going to treat them as stereo or mono.
If they are located by each main L/R speaker then for Hifi I’d personally run them as stereo. For AVR I’d use them as mono regardless of position.

In the stereo subs position scenario, I’d connect the Left pre-out of the Hifi to miniDSP input 1, and route it to miniDSP output 1 - connect that to one of sub 1’s RCA inputs. And of course for the Right pre-out from the Hifi, connect to miniDSP input 2 and route that to its output 2, and connect that to sub 2’s RCA.
AVR connections then simply connect the AVR sub 1 output to sub 1’s other LFE RCA input, and the AVR sub 2 output to sub 2’s in the same way.

This ensures that if playing a movie, the subs operate basically exactly as you no doubt have them now. And any signal that goes via HT bypass and then out the pre-amp is getting ‘caught’ by the miniDSP and a crossover applied before hitting the sub - so there’s no chance of a full range signal reaching the sub.
For music use, should be pretty obvious that the AVR isn’t sending anything as it will be off, and the miniDSP with it’s crossover (and respective timing/PEQ if you go down that road) will be applied so no full range signal reaches the sub, despite being left in LFE mode.

This approach ensures you don’t have to mess with any app profiles anywhere or settings on the sub, and never risking full range signal reaching the sub.

If your subs are not setup like a stereo pair next to your mains, then physically you still connect as above, but in the miniDSP instead of routing Left/Right inputs from the pre-amp to a separate output on the miniDSP, instead you can sum them inside the miniDSP and treat them as mono. The miniDSP again providing a toolset to ensure you get them setup and timed properly to your mains.

No doubt some other ways, but I do similar ish setup with a single sub and have zero issues with integration on either side (movie or Hifi use).
I’m debating getting a second sub if I can re-jig my gear about a bit to make room where a second sub would add value, and I would setup as described having pondered this dual use setup for a while!
Thanks so much for this, lots of detail which I’m sure will be helpful. I need to read and understand it properly which I’ll do later. To answer one question. The subs will be positioned adjacent to L&R floor standers. Any mini DSP you would recommend me looking at/researching?

What are the practical implications if a full range signal were to accidentally be fed to an SB-3000? Apologies for the super basic questions here. 👍
 

TB Rich

Active Member
Thanks so much for this, lots of detail which I’m sure will be helpful. I need to read and understand it properly which I’ll do later. To answer one question. The subs will be positioned adjacent to L&R floor standers. Any mini DSP you would recommend me looking at/researching?

What are the practical implications if a full range signal were to accidentally be fed to an SB-3000? Apologies for the super basic questions here. 👍

It’d make clear sense if I drew it out, when I log on Monday with the laptop open if you haven’t sussed it by then I’ll create a paint diagram for you!! :D
The miniDSP 2x4HD will be the one you want to go for, as you‘ll only need 2 analogue inputs, and 2 outputs.
The basic setup you would want to run on it, which is super easy to do and doesn’t require microphones or a learning curve, is simply use it to set the crossover. Later you could consider getting more advanced with the setup, which entails buying a UMIK1 microphone and doing sweeps in software called REW. This allows calibrating the timing, peq, and you could experiment with the effects of different crossover slopes and frequencies! It’s all in aid to get the best integration possible with the mains, taming peaks and avoiding phase issues pretty much - and having the microphone and recording the sweeps simply gives you a way to quantify and catalogue the changes so you know if your making it better or worse!

I don’t know if a full range signal will cause damage, probably not immediately I suspect (unless the level was very high), but perhaps done enough times, over time it would. A sub driver and coil are certainly not designed to play mid range and high frequencies, and at the very least it would sound awful for sure. Beyond about 2-300hz it’s probably going to distort quite badly.
 

mjennings65

Standard Member
DB0113E7-12A1-4905-82FA-8074164994F5.jpeg
That’s super kind. I need to make time to study what you’ve written as it’s full of good things.

I attach the back panel of the Pre-Amp. Do these inputs/controls (I presume when not in HT bypass, though unsure) make any changes to your recommended approach?
 

TB Rich

Active Member
That’s a cool amp, it has crossover capabilities and also distinct L/R/Summed sub outs!! You wouldn‘t need a miniDSP with that, at least not to get up and started.

You could do as I said above still but I think I would actually scratch all that I said becuase of this crossover functionality on the Emotiva! :)
If you set your mains on the AVR to Large, and set no sub - then all bass would get routed via the L/R preouts to the Emotiva. Then with the Emotiva use its built in crossover capabilities to separate out the bass from the speakers and the sub. You can then simplify the cabling, simply take the Left sub out to the left sub, and the right sub out to the right sub.
The SVS would be set to LFE mode and you can tune the SVS PEQ too via the app to suit. Run the AVR calibration after doing all this and it will take care of that side of things. And it should sound good and integrated on the 2ch music side too with PEQ done on the SVS and a crossover set on the amp ensuring correct slopes etc are used to each.

As a trial, you could even test stereo vs mono sub output. Instead of doing the Emotiva Left subout to left sub, and right to right. Instead take the summed out to one of the subs, and then link the subs via the respective output to the 2nd subs input.

Edit: just checked the manual and the HT bypass, bypasses the bass management. The above won’t work (I’ll leave it in place as you could do it if you go into one of the regular inputs).
So….,
You could instead basically do a hybrid of the 2, basically cable it as per my first option - AVR configurd as usual (small and sub yes), and it still goes to subs and HT bypass as normal. However where the 2 options converge is you don’t need the miniDSP because the Emotiva does bass management, so Left sub on Emotiva to Left sub, right to right.
 
Last edited:

mjennings65

Standard Member
That’s a cool amp, it has crossover capabilities and also distinct L/R/Summed sub outs!! You wouldn‘t need a miniDSP with that, at least not to get up and started.

You could do as I said above still but I think I would actually scratch all that I said becuase of this crossover functionality on the Emotiva! :)
If you set your mains on the AVR to Large, and set no sub - then all bass would get routed via the L/R preouts to the Emotiva. Then with the Emotiva use its built in crossover capabilities to separate out the bass from the speakers and the sub. You can then simplify the cabling, simply take the Left sub out to the left sub, and the right sub out to the right sub.
The SVS would be set to LFE mode and you can tune the SVS PEQ too via the app to suit. Run the AVR calibration after doing all this and it will take care of that side of things. And it should sound good and integrated on the 2ch music side too with PEQ done on the SVS and a crossover set on the amp ensuring correct slopes etc are used to each.

As a trial, you could even test stereo vs mono sub output. Instead of doing the Emotiva Left subout to left sub, and right to right. Instead take the summed out to one of the subs, and then link the subs via the respective output to the 2nd subs input.
This ( I think) is what I was hoping. And yes the pre-amp (which feeds my Musical Fidelity power amp) is lovely and properly balanced. F1 time the. I’ll read more. 👍
 

TB Rich

Active Member
This ( I think) is what I was hoping. And yes the pre-amp (which feeds my Musical Fidelity power amp) is lovely and properly balanced. F1 time the. I’ll read more. 👍
I’ve just edited it mind! Should have read the manual before replying! :facepalm:
 

mjennings65

Standard Member
That’s a cool amp, it has crossover capabilities and also distinct L/R/Summed sub outs!! You wouldn‘t need a miniDSP with that, at least not to get up and started.

You could do as I said above still but I think I would actually scratch all that I said becuase of this crossover functionality on the Emotiva! :)
If you set your mains on the AVR to Large, and set no sub - then all bass would get routed via the L/R preouts to the Emotiva. Then with the Emotiva use its built in crossover capabilities to separate out the bass from the speakers and the sub. You can then simplify the cabling, simply take the Left sub out to the left sub, and the right sub out to the right sub.
The SVS would be set to LFE mode and you can tune the SVS PEQ too via the app to suit. Run the AVR calibration after doing all this and it will take care of that side of things. And it should sound good and integrated on the 2ch music side too with PEQ done on the SVS and a crossover set on the amp ensuring correct slopes etc are used to each.

As a trial, you could even test stereo vs mono sub output. Instead of doing the Emotiva Left subout to left sub, and right to right. Instead take the summed out to one of the subs, and then link the subs via the respective output to the 2nd subs input.

Edit: just checked the manual and the HT bypass, bypasses the bass management. The above won’t work (I’ll leave it in place as you could do it if you go into one of the regular inputs).
So….,
You could instead basically do a hybrid of the 2, basically cable it as per my first option - AVR configurd as usual (small and sub yes), and it still goes to subs and HT bypass as normal. However where the 2 options converge is you don’t need the miniDSP because the Emotiva does bass management, so Left sub on Emotiva to Left sub, right to right.
Your help & dedication to interpret the detail for me, by even studying the manual! Is amazing - from a non-audiophile with limited understanding I applaud you. 👏 Thankyou. 👍👍
 

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