SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer Review & Comments

Will do.

I'll be comparing it to mw old REL Storm.

Steve W

Steve the new sub should blow your old Rel Storm into next week have more output and give a lower response! Plus if you like to play music as well , it should have a lot more punch and better timing..............And for movies more output and slam! but it will take a good three or four weeks before it starts to give its best depending on how much play it gets and just get better and better from there on?
 
Steve the new sub should blow your old Rel Storm into next week have more output and give a lower response! Plus if you like to play music as well , it should have a lot more punch and better timing..............And for movies more output and slam! but it will take a good three or four weeks before it starts to give its best depending on how much play it gets and just get better and better from there on?

You know the really bad news?

I'm getting my new projector (also arrived today) calibrated, but I have to put 100 hours on the lamp before I do.

So I'm just going to have to get all sorts of serious watching (and listening) done.

Tsk.

Steve W
 
I'm getting my new projector (also arrived today) calibrated, but I have to put 100 hours on the lamp before I do.
can't you just leave it running full time cycling through a set of files containing all relevant colours ?
 
can't you just leave it running full time cycling through a set of files containing all relevant colours ?

Leaving a hot light shining on LCD chips for a long time = bad idea.

I've seen the results.

They're not pretty!

Steve W
 
I'll remember that one if i ever get an LCD pj then! :facepalm:

You know, the problem may be sorted with the reflective technology, but I'm not going to take the chance.

DLP, on the other hand, is absolutely fine. It's possible the continued heat might not be good for your lamp, but you can always buy another lamp.

Steve W
 
You know, the problem may be sorted with the reflective technology, but I'm not going to take the chance.

DLP, on the other hand, is absolutely fine. It's possible the continued heat might not be good for your lamp, but you can always buy another lamp.

Steve W

It wasn't a good idea with my Sagem 56" DLP especially in high bulb mode! and when they were first launched the bulbs were £450..............I still have a next to new ballast and bulb with only 25hours on it for any one who is still running a Sagem tv lol.
 
Will do.

I'll be comparing it to mw old REL Storm.

Steve W
Bit late, meant to post yesterday

My Monolith replaced a Storm lll then and now I have the MK, think you will be oh so impressed!!!
 
I am getting my SB-2000 tomorrow - can't wait! First proper sub (currently have a MA radius 360) and I have my copy of Edge of Tomorrow ready for the first bit of testing... However there was a review on the svs website (extract below) which concerned me a bit. I understand that there shouldn't really be a concern of damaging anything because of the nature of the sub. But I want to be ultra cautious since it's quite a big investment for me.... Should I start off with very low volume and see what happens or build up to a proper bass test once it has run for a while (i.e. avoid EoT for a bit)...?



But... everything changed when my Blu-ray copy of Edge of Tomorrow arrived. This movie contains a few very low frequency sweep tones at the intro of the movie and that's where all the problems started. The driver excursion was extremely high and the subwoofer chassis started shaking too much causing the rubber feet to bounce lightly on my even level floor. I was shocked but played the scene again to study the behavior from the sub up close. The chassis wasn't only shaking too much, but the woofer excursion seemed so high that I could actually hear a little rubber 'flapping' from the woofer itself (hard to hear from seating position). The weird thing is that the volume of my receiver and sub were set on a normal (not loud) level and my receiver crossover is only set to 60Hz. No other movies posed problems thus far except this scene (the rest of the movie wasn't really LFE heavy).

Not only it seamed that the woofer itself had a difficult time, but the chassis itself is to lightweight to handle the power of the internal components. I actually placed new feet under the sub to try if that solves it, but unfortunately it is a weight problem. Placing something weighty on top of the sub solved the problem, but of course the driver excursion was still shockingly high and the rubber 'flapping' was still there. I also tested the scene on an older REL Q50 (12 inch) sub and that one handled it without problems and even sounded almost similar (of course it can't go as deep as the SVS). That sub has the same weight and is only 50 Watts...
 
EOT has this 20 second or so very hot scene at the beginning, with my 2 x 15" subs running at -9db it was nauseating:D but not causing the subs any problem. I then ran the rest of the movie at -7db after this and it was just about right.:thumbsup:

Lesser subs or singles will probably find this too much so try at around -12db or less (lower volume) and you should be ok. New subs should have the benefit of at least 10-20hrs run in time before playing any very hot bass mixed discs at very high volume levels though so that the driver has time to loosen up a bit.
 
Kb has hit the nail on the head!
Let your sub run in for a few hours to loosen up, it will deliver but unlikely brand new out of the box without something going wrong.
What is it they say in F1 racing, "let the track come to you", so let your sub come to you and give it a few hours.
Btw excellent film with some awesome bass.
 
Brilliant, thanks!

I'll take it easy to begin with and then build up to EoT next week after it's loosened up a bit. I can then give it a bit of welly when my wife and 8 week old baby are off up country for a few nights next week (I'll miss them loads obviously).

Your set up sounds fantastic - however I think mine should be good enough for some babygro flapping bass...

My room is nearly "done", just a screen to go and I'm there - set for lots of winter viewing!
 
I think this will be my next sub... maybe in time for xmas hopefully. Anyone got the gloss black version on here? Only think I don't like so much is the metal grille, prefer a more flush fitting one.
 
I got a new projector and this sub at the same time, so I've mainly been focussing on the projector.

But I have to say the sub is so...natural. It sounds very integrated, like its a part of the whole soundscape rather than a low-down addition to it.

I haven't tried it with any demo sub scenes yet, but then again, isn't that the point? It's in use all the time, not just on the odd 'WOW!' moment.

It's like it's not there, but partly because it's just so controlled. It's not that it doesn't go low. It's that it sounds like your main speakers are going low, rather than some bass unit add on.

Best bit so far, the bath disco in Partysaurus Rex.

Thumping!

Steve W
 
Hi Steve! Where have you positioned your new sub in your cinema room , I take it that its up front............Could you post your cinema room dimensions in feet or meters ceiling height!! And i'll it through R.E.W Sim to calculate the optimum sub position?..................Or / And a simple sketch.
 
So REW Sim reports that you have a large hole in response at around 24hz of 20+db...........Placing the sub up front and center just moves the bad response to the 59hz region! Xt32 may lift some of this black hole response at the stated frequencies at the two stated sub positions but doing so will only rob your system of headroom.

If there is no possible way of replacing your sub to a different location to be able to flatten out your response then i would suggest you move the seating position to some 2.49m from the front wall with the sub located on the center and close up to the back wall.................In fact placing the sub at the front and center gives the same desired flatter response!! But even so you still seem to have a 20db deficit at 90hz...............You may have to have a play with different xover settings and phase.

The best response that i saw was with two subs center front and rear with the seating at 2.49m from the front wall and with the ceiling lowered to some 1.95m...........just a thought!
 
On adjusting with REW Sim some more! the best response achieved in your room Steve is to use two subs at center front and rear and then to place your mlp at 2m from the rear wall gives and nice and flat response before any eq is added! It even looks a lot better through the xover region................................Another sub at all stated positions would sound awesome and alleviate the sat in a bit of a null scenario.
 
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On adjusting with REW Sim some more the best response achieved in your room Steve is to use two subs at center front and rear and then to place your mlp at 2m from the rear wall gives and nice and flat response before any eq is added! It even looks a lot better through the xover region................................Another sub at all stated positions would sound awesome and alleviate the sat in a bit of a null scenario.

I'll let you know when I can afford a second sub.

Steve W
 
It needs to be set at a 180 degree Steve to align with your main speakers as its behind your mlp..............If you then buy a second sub! hopefully of the very same make and model positioned up front , Then that's the one that needs to be set at zero degree's.
 

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