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Speakers and Stands: Help the n00b

Discussion in 'Home Cinema Speakers' started by Freak Machine, Feb 9, 2005.

  1. Freak Machine

    Freak Machine
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    I just got a pair of Mordaunt-Short Avant 902 Loudspeakers and I'm looking for some stands. I've been doing my best to find out as much as I can, but a little personal advice can go a long way.

    How important is the size of the top plate in relation to the speaker? Does the plate have to cover the entire base of the speaker?

    I would really like to get some ATACAMA NEXUS SPEAKER STANDS, but I'm not entirely sure they will do for my Mordaunt-Short speakers. Here are the dimensions.

    Avant 902 Loudspeakers:
    Dimensions (hxwxd)
    (mm) 290x165x265
    (inches) 11.4x6.5x10.4

    ATACAMA NEXUS SPEAKER STANDS:
    Top-plate size (w x d) 145 x 180mm

    Hopefully I'll order these tonight, if they will do me right!! Thanks.
     
  2. dreamer_andy

    dreamer_andy
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    The atacamas should be fine, you are not going to hear a great difference in sound quality by spending a lot on stands, the only advantage of spending more is that they will be suitable for when you want to upgrade your speakers.
     
  3. Freak Machine

    Freak Machine
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    Thanks for replying.

    So, you think that my speakers don't warrant these stands? I'm like a sponge for information, I'm totally new to this.

    Even though the speakers are larger than the top plate, they should be ok? Do they just sit on the top of the stands, or are they fixed in some way?
    As I said, I'm a complete beginner. Thanks again.
     
  4. Londondecca

    Londondecca
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    I would argue that some decent stands can make a big difference, even for budget speakers.

    The two main ways in which a speaker is held are by sitting on spikes or some sort of decoupling material such as blutak. I am not familiar with the speakers or stands you have mentioned but in my experience, lighter speakers seem to work best with heavy stands whereas heavy speakers respond well to open (lighter) stands
     
  5. dreamer_andy

    dreamer_andy
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    No, I think the Atacama Nexus stands will be fine, all I'm saying is that I wouldn't spend any more on the stands than that. If I had £500 to spend on speakers I would spend £400 on the speakers and £100 max on the stands, not the other way round.

    Don't worry about the speaker footprint being bigger than the stand, thats ok, as long as its reasonably stable.

    Some people say that Blutak is good, others say it is bad. Reasons for good: It sticks the speaker to the stand and means the driver unit is pushing against a stationary cabinet. Reason for bad: Blutak has an absorbing frequency where it absorbes a certain frequency, meaning that particular frequency will seem quiter than the rest.Try both and see for yourself though.

    Its all about what sounds good to you, not what hifi salesmen say IS good therefore MUST sound good to you. Enjoy your explorations!
     
  6. Freak Machine

    Freak Machine
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    Thank you both.
     
  7. the mechanic

    the mechanic
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    Also don't forget that most stands allow you to fill them with sand (or similar), to help deaden resonances and the added benefit of making them more sturdy.
    I bought a pair of GALE ST50's from richer sounds to put my mission M71i's on for £19.95. Although not in the same league as atacama, the quality vs price difference for me seems to be fair.
    I have been told that a cheaper alternative to the "special" mass loading sand sold in HI-FI dealers is the stuff you would use for a chinchillas "bath". It's a very fine, dry sand that they use to clean themselves and is available from most petshops.
    I hope to give this a go soon to see what difference it makes, so will keep you all posted as how I get on.

    All the best

    Graham.
     
  8. Freak Machine

    Freak Machine
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    dreamer_andy: About my speakers and thier footprint in relation to the top plate of the stands. I was ordering from Richer Sounds and I decided to grab some spikes at the same time, that way I wouldn't have to pay for any postage. Now, with the speakers overhanging in width by about 1.25cm on each side, and overhanging by about 8.5cm in depth, where should I place the spikes/speakers? Should I even out the overhang in depth, or just let all the over hang go off the back of the stand? How many spikes do I use, on for each corner of the top plate, because when I asked someone else they said two in the front one in the back.

    The speakers stands haven't arrived yet, but looking at the measurments I'm not sure how stable they will be on spikes, but I've no experience atall and they may sit solidly enough?

    About the blutak, it immediately sounds like it would be more "stable", but I'm sure there's more to it than just slapping a nob(haha, I said nob!) onto the point where the speaker and top plate meet. Do I have to shape it in anyway?
     
  9. dreamer_andy

    dreamer_andy
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    As a rule, place the speaker centrally on the stand for maximum stability. Dont put spikes on the bottom of the speakers if they are sitting on stands, just use blu-tak (one small ball at each corner). Use the stand spikes though and make sure the stand is perfectly level.

    I understand you are trying to get the most from your kit but to be perfectly honest, I doubt you will hear any difference by making these minor adjustments. I can hear the difference in soundstage between a set of Dynaudio 82s with spikes and those without, and they're £1700. I have never been able to tell much difference in any speakers cheaper than that.

    You are more likely to benefit from the positioning of the speakers. Make sure they are the same distance from the rear wall and from the corners of the room if you are in a fairly normal square room. set them up parallel to the outer walls and if the soundstage is poor, then try toeing them in slightly (angling them in towards the listening position slightly). Just experiment with tracks you are familiar with. Play the same track over and over again whilst making adjustments if necessary.
     

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