Speaker/Sub upgrade for Honda Jazz (SXE-1725S/SWE-1000)

G a f f e r

Well-known Member
OK, so seeing as most information around the web pertains to USDM Fits (which have 6 speakers and other differences) I thought it would be useful to post some info on how I did my 4 speaker install and active sub additions.

Firstly, the headunit in UK Jazzes is made by Alpine and is 41W peak per channel (41x4) which equates to 29W RMS per channel.
Part number is TUNER ASSY. (41WX4) (ALPINE) in case you're wondering.

Anyway, I decided to buy a set of 4 Alpine speakers to go with the headunit because the stock speakers are pretty rubbish.
They have no treble, and no midrange with woolly bass. I had to listen with Bass set at -2 and treble +2 and voices still sounded muffled and indistinct. Listening to Talk Sport was pretty unbearable tbh.

The other option is to replace the Headunit.....well, that's an option in the rest of the world but not in the UK.
NO ONE makes the fascia needed to convert to single or double din for RHD cars that includes the space for the seatbelt light as well. Until they do, a speaker upgrade is the best way to upgrade the sound as a first option.

So, on to the procedure (apologies for the piccies, most are from my iPhone, so they aren't necessarily the best).


Stage 1

doorremove1.jpg


Remove the screw inside the door handle recess. You will need a philips no2. BE CAREFUL, this black screw is VERY secure and you need to be careful to apply enough force without stripping the head.

doorconnector.jpg


Now remove the bottom plastic cover of the "arm" of the door. It is secured in place via plastic tabs and should pull off. To do this safely, I inserted a thin plastic card into the upper right side where it meets the arm cloth. A slight twist will expose a gap which allows you to get a purchase and pull the plastic off.

Now unscrew the big silver screw shown in the middle of the picture above using the philips screwdriver

Now remember to unclip the wiring plug (Note that UK 'ES' Jazzes have electric windows all round so you'll have to remove plugs for all the four doors, inc. the rear passenger ones).

Now try and get your finger behind the plastic where the speaker grill is and pull the corner towards you. This is the easiest to pull off, after this pops out, the rest of the "plastic pins" will pull away and the door will be "free" at the bottom/middle.

doorremove4.jpg


This picture shows where the 6 lug holes for these plastic pins are, so you'll know where they are. The pins are bright red so they're easy to spot.

alpinerefit.jpg


With the door hanging "loose" there is NO NEED to proceed to remove the plastic panel completely because you can lift it away enough to get to the speaker screw at the bottom (image above shows when I was putting it all back together with the new speakers, the stock speakers look a LOT cheaper and nastier).

doorrearpillar.jpg


...plus, the rear doors have this plastic wedge which makes it harder to pull the door panel completely off anyway, so I just left them hanging there.

s18pg.jpg


Now unscrew the speaker from the door

s29.jpg


...and pull up in order to lift the speaker from the two clips holding the bottom into the door. After this, remove the speaker and unplug it.

Do the same for all four doors and take the 4 speakers into the house/garage.

Total time so far about 30min


So now we need to install the drop in speakers into place and do some modding.


Stage 2

alpinebaskets.jpg


The stock speaker is in the top right of the piccie. Notice the cheap, small magnet. Also, these are simple cheap paper cones, not even dual cones and certainly not coaxials (which Honda charge an arm and a leg for upgrading to).

The cone is actually part of the spacer, so you need a dremel to cut it away from the basket (about 12 or so thin plastic "legs"). Then cut the top 2 and bottom 2 supports from the input plug.....you'll use these later.
Once done, rip the cone out of the spacer and peel it away fromt he outer edge where it's glued in as well.
You should have a spacer, a female connector plug and a ruined/ripped out cone. Throw the cone away.

alpinetrimming.jpg


At this point, if I had a 16.5cm speaker, it'd be a direct drop in.....however, I chose Alpine SXE-1725S 16.5cm speakers. Unfortunately, the speaker is 16.5cm but it has a wide flange around the edge that brings it up to 17cm total. In order to fit into the spacer, I had to dremel away that extra edge

alpinefrontback.jpg


This then slots right into the spacer snugly, after which you can screw them into the spacer via the screws supplied with the Alpines. I then had to sand the sharp points of the screws at the rear by a mm or so as they are ever so slightly longer than the spacer depth.

alpinedepth.jpg


The end result is a speaker that is shallower than the stock speaker and thus won't obstruct the window when wound down nor hit the speaker grill in the door plastic in front.

In order to be careful to not damage the Alpine cones, I was very careful here and doing all four housings and speakers meant this was quite time consuming, total time here about 1-2 hours

If you don't need to trim the speaker edges, then preparing the spacers and screwing your speakers in carefully (and sanding the points down) might take half that time.


Stage 3

So that's the speakers mounted, now it's time to address the electrical connections.
You could of course, simply cut the plugs off and directly solder the oem wire onto your new speakers, but I thought a better way (which would also preserve polarity with less of a chance of making a mistake) is to simply transplant the stock electrical plugs onto the new Alpines.

alpinesoldered.jpg


I araldited the plastic plug from the housing (from earlier) into position on the Alpines and then soldered the connections into place using thick gauge speaker wire. BE VERY CAREFUL HERE. Not enough heat and the solder won't tin the wire correctly.....too much heat and you could damage the speaker/voice coil.
Also, when putting the plug into position, I bent the Alpine pins back in order to allow enough room for the door plug to fit all the way down onto the connector.
Note, after soldering into position like above, take some time to tidy up any stray strands (which I did afterwards by tinning them into the wire).

alpinerearcomplete.jpg


Here are all 4 speakers ready to go. Time for this stage was about 1-2 hours


Stage 4

alpineindoor.jpg


So here is the new speaker in position.

There are a few things to note when putting the doors back together again.

doorarmrear.jpg


Remember to reach behind and pull the electrical connector through before pushing the door panel back into place.

spade.jpg


The door arm plastic has a very tiny plastic pin toward the front end that is easy to miss and easy to damage. It also has a spade-like part on the back end that you have to slide into the door panel in order to fit it. To avoid damage and have an easy fit I inserted the "spade" bit first, then moved to the other end and made sure that plastic pin aligned correctly. The rest of the pins then followed after a slight push and clipped back nicely.


img0303rc.jpg

img0304ka.jpg


Remember to push the handle against the door and slide to the right in order to "hook" the handle into position. It is held in this way by 4 L shaped hooks that you need to align correctly first. Doing this also means the screw hole lines up correctly (it's easier to understand when you do it yourself).


Total time to put it all back together again about 15-20min

cabinspeaker.jpg


Trim all fitted back perfectly, there are no knocks or rattles and you can even see the silver reflection from the new speakers.


The sound?

Well, it's a BIG improvement. I now have adequate treble, (some) bass and a midrange at last. It's not massively louder, just massively better balanced. Good enough in fact, that I have gone back to Bass set to 'C' and Treble set to 'C' (i.e. neutral for both) and everything sounds much clearer.
I can also now listen to medium wave and whilst it doesn't sound great (headunit at fault here) it's MUCH better than it was before, with more clarity to voices.
The extra treble does mean that it's easier to hear a small hiss if radio reception is poor, but that's a sympton of good speakers exposing poor headunit reception and isn't a problem imo (the overall improvement in sound far outstrips this minor niggle)

Yes, given the option a headunit upgrade would be a good move but unfortunately, being in the UK, means that this is out of the question for most of us (it's possible by getting the satnav option's plastic surround but Honda insist they can't supply that part to me).

For £60, this is a great little upgrade that takes a bit of time to do right but is well worth it when you do.
 

G a f f e r

Well-known Member
Unfortunately, it wasn't long before upgraditis struck again :D. I decided that whilst the sound was excellent, the lowest frequencies were not really filled in.

Rather than being a flat EQ curve, the sound was more like this:



I wasn't looking for some kind of teenager chavy BoomBox "BombaClat upside ya face I aks ya" style:



...but was rather looking for a flatter EQ curve that sounded more balanced with emphasis on SQ rather than SPL:



This meant that I didn't want a gigantic box taking up my boot - with the added bonus of meaning that the boot is still usable and I can still get at my spare:



I'm still messing around with the settings, but I currently have the factory OEM Headunit set to "neutral" for bass and treble as before, with the Alpine SWE-1000 set to the 12 o'clock position for LPF and Gain (so it cuts off at about 88Hz), and the Phase set to NORM (REV/180deg gives more bass but that bass is also more "woolly" and less precise, so I left it on NORM).

There isn't much else to show because I routed all the wires through the existing trims and upholstery.

Firstly, I removed the radio using this guide (page 3):
http://collegehillshonda.com/instructions/fit/2009/usbadapter.pdf

Then I used this guide to remove the center console (also has one metal screw to remove), again on page 3:
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/fit/2009/armrest.pdf

I then spliced the Speaker wires into the supplied speaker level leads (Rear pair) and, because there is no "remote on" wire coming form the factory HU, I spliced the remote on lead onto the purple ACC input into the HU.

The UK 2010 Jazzes have a slightly different wiring system than those I've seen on the net:





Proof (piccies of my Jazzes wiring loom for the radio before I vampire tapped it with the sub feeds):





Now, when doing the tapping, I didn't start my car and therefore didn't need to disconnect anything (useful to know you can do this without having to unplug the radio and therefore no radio code needed when you plug it all back in again).
All I did do with a multimeter is check that purple was indeed the Ignition On (ACC) feed.

Separate to this, if you look at the passenger side up into the bulkhead, you'll see a massive grommet with loads of wires entering the engine bay:


This is useful because any wire going through here ends up less than a foot away from the battery so there is no worry about routing the wire all round the shops and over hot engine compartments:


I used a coat hanger and simply fed the supplied +ve feed (fused) directly onto the battery:


Where it runs back, it is suspended away from anything remotely hot (runs around an air intake and directly to the back of the engine bay):


Once into the cabin, I routed it over to the center console where the spkr lvl input (spliced) wires were dangling along with the spliced ACC "turn the sub on" feed.

Next, I added the subwoofer remote cable with the all the other leads down both sides of the transmission tunnel under the carpet - using the wire once again to tunnel under the carpet in the rear to the rear boot. Negative lead was screwed into the seatbelt base securely, sub then mounted to the extreme right of the boot (when looking from the rear). I could've left such a small cabinet underneath the rear seat, but the boot should give a better acoustic response as the cone is facing a larger enclosed space in the boot firing R to L (rather than directly up at the base of a seat or directly back towards the hatch door - the longest length to "fire into" is essential for deeper bass).


Screwed everything back into place and voila - all the wiring has disappeared!
The added bonus is that the Alpine remote for the sub has a blue LED, which I placed at the very end of the centre console (furthest forward I could put it, beyond the cupholders/ashtray thingy) with the result that it bathes the area with soft blue light - not unlike the Ambient Lighting option offered by Honda - only MUCH cheaper ;).


Here is a piccie of the center console. It's daytime so on camera it doesn't look very bright but at night the sub control LED is bright enough to "ambient light" the console.



Overall, practically invisible, small enough to not impede the magic seats or boot space or ability to remove the spare wheel, loud enough to flatten out the sound curve, not loud enough to qualify for burberry accessories ;), cheap enough (£125) to be affordable...











TOTAL cost of 4 components and sub = £60 + £125 = £185, and the system as a whole is now much better than stock for not very much outlay :thumbsup: (if someone ever gets round to making a double-din HU fascia, i'll probably upgrade the HeadUnit too (nice Alpine double-din) but until then this is good enough for me with the bass sounding like it's coming from the 4 components and not so loud that anyone else hears me 20 blocks away - just enough to fill the car).
 

G a f f e r

Well-known Member
@Metalspawn, I cannot re-up some piccies as the thread won't let me so i'll add an addendum here:

Stage 1: When removing the door card, you'll see this connector on the door which needs to be unplugged during disassembly:
xrbe.jpg


Stage 3: Once dremelled, the trimmed speaker looks like this when mounted into the newly made "spacers"
spnt.jpg


Stage 4: Same as when removing, when reassembling, remember to reconnect the door controls. Also note the screw hole on the right should align correctly:
7ned.png




Sub install: If you look into the bulkhead, you'll see this grommet with wires coming out of it into the cabin. I used this to route the sub +ve wire into the engine bay:
0arw.jpg


Remember to poke the coat hanger through the grommet not around it, this waythe rubber of the grommet will hold it safely in place and prevent it rubbing against the metal of the car body.



EDIT:
Plus, I've been fiddling again.
The underseat sub was OK if you want to enhance a stock in car system, but now that the speakers were all getting decent un-equalised info from a better HU, it was very lacking.
I still wanted to retain boot space so I opted for a quick upgrade in the form of it's bigger brother, the SWE-815 (still an 8" but in a decent enclosure for better bass)

vpkq.jpg


zu5x.jpg


WOW!!, proper bass again, not too overblown (I'm keeping the port-plug in place) but enough to shake my seat....with the added bonus of being pretty much a direct swap with my existing cables (uses the same sub controller as the SWE-1000).
Best of all, it only cost £91 so is a bargain to boot.
 
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