More then agree with it!... that there are several more important remedies to these problems before resorting to having the signal processed by a complex circuit. It is the signal more than anything that needs to have its purity maintained and the fewer processing stages the signal has to endure the better. I grant you that many people don't have the skills or patience to do the more important and non-signal damaging methods ...
Hi Shane. I am indeed running the Arcam with HT-Bypass. When I listen to music, I am just running the Arcam on it’s own via a Yamaha music streamer, so the subs are not in use, I only use the Arendal’s for HT.I feel I've seen this room before or one almost identical to it in the past. Are you running a HT-BYPASS system as I can see both a Marantz and Arcam in play.
If this is the case, where are you finding the sound is a little weak plus if it is a HT-BYPASS system, how are you integrating those woofers to bring in extra depth which could help mask some of the sharpness from the room hard surfaces
Not so much symbols I wouldn’t say. More noticeable on vocals, mid and higher notes can start to sound brittle, hollow, lacking body to the point they can sound overly sharp.By bright do you mean cymbals sound harsh?
Can you give some examples.
It's all wood floors and glass. Hardly an acoustic dream.The room looks very typical
Hence why room correction was invented - you make the point wellAnyway finding the perfect speaker is impossible.
The floors are not actually wood, just a wood effect laminate, but I agree with your point.It's all wood floors and glass. Hardly an acoustic dream.
On the other hand, ignore those who either haven't got the patience or skills to sort out these problems without resorting to signal manipulation. You don't need a new amp to get good sound, though you may have less than ideal speakers for your particular room.Ignore the room correction naysayers.
Much as you might ignore a square wheel salesman
So what you are suggesting is manipulating the sound by changing the transducers. Don't see a lot of difference except it is cludgey and difficult because trying to find exactly the right one for a particular room is almost impossible without trialling dozens of different speakers until you hit on the right one. Love to know how you practically achieve that, bearing in mind the limited range each dealer stocks and the reluctance to let them out for home trial because of the risk of damage.On the other hand, ignore those who either haven't got the patience or skills to sort out these problems without resorting to signal manipulation. You don't need a new amp to get good sound, though you may have less than ideal speakers for your particular room.
Were the speakers originally demoed at a dealers and the problem has only risen at home - where they now sound too bright?Hi.
I am looking for some advice on potential speakers that could work well in my room. I have attached some photos to make it easier to understand my problem. As you can see, my room is an extension with glass patio doors and windows all down the left hand side. I believe this is what is causing my speakers to sound bright to the point it can be slightly painful, usually with music.
Current setup when listening to music is Dali Oberon 5’s driven by an Arcam SA20. After a lot of experimenting, the position the speakers are now seems to be the best I can find in terms of alleviating the shrill sound, which is quite close to the back wall and the speakers as wide as they can physically go, as this seems to help with the left speaker being more behind the plant. If I move them out into the room, the brightness is much worse, I think because it opens up the left speaker to more open angles to hit the glass without the plant defracting the sound.
I think another issue is that the Oberon’s are perhaps not helping my problem because they have wide dispersion and are designed to be aimed straight ahead. I did try toeing them in but they sounded really bright, even more so.
Which now leads me to my question. Would a speaker that is designed to be toed in be better suited for my room, so that the deflections of the glass will then have less impact as the left speakerView attachment 1821334View attachment 1821336 will be toed away from it? If you agree with that logic, what speakers would you recommend?
I have AE309’s on my radar and also Wharfedale EVO 4.3’s. It needs to be a compact floorstander - I have very little space between subs and cabinet so needs to be ok running within a foot or less of front wall. Also would need to be available in white. And obviously don’t want a bright speaker.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
No I didn’t demo the speakers so can’t compare to another roomWere the speakers originally demoed at a dealers and the problem has only risen at home - where they now sound too bright?
I have no idea what the Dali speakers sound like [neutral/forward etc] - so I googled a few reviews and my conculsion is its not so much the speaker - But the room itself.No I didn’t demo the speakers so can’t compare to another room
Assuming you have all of the cables required, why not give it a go. At worst you think it sounds dreadful and switch everything back. Hardly a massive effort if it ends up improving things.I have already identified my first reflection points. The one on the left is where the plant is to try and diffuse the sound a little. Adding additional blinds is going to be a none starter unfortunately.
What are people’s thoughts on streaming my music via the AVR and just using the Arcam as a power amp so that I get the benefit of Audyssey? It seems a waste of the Arcam though.
Yes, pulling the speakers out makes the brightness noticeably worse. The position in the photos is the best I can find to alleviate the brightness.Have you pulled the speakers out from the subs and listened?
If it is that easy, some speaker builder wouldn't bother to design excellent speakers. All they need to do is bung 2 or 3 drivers into a cabinet and (as long as the drivers can deliver the entire frequency range between them), the lazy speaker designer could leave everything to the customer's DSP to sort out all 3 problems - the poor frequency curve of the speakers, poor ssetting up of the speakers and the room’s poor acoustics. Is that what you want - poorly designed speakers as there's no need to buy accurate ones if there's DSP in the house?One room correction system is all that is needed because it is variable and can be adjusted according to the room - why make it more complicated?
Ha ha ha ha . Now I know you're trolling. Always thought you were a bit to arrogantly certain of your position.reputable and unbiased sources (so not forums and not Youtube videos, but the likes of Stereophile)
You're clutching at straws. All reviews need to be assessed for their logic, accuracy or relevence. Why not make an attempt to discuss the point that I'm making about speaker design and DSP? May be an interesting subject.Ha ha ha ha . Now I know you're trolling. Always thought you were a bit to arrogantly certain of your position.
Speaker design is of course important, but most people don't have the time or money to check every possible speaker type, let alone how they interact with their room.You're clutching at straws. All reviews need to be assessed for their logic, accuracy or relevence. Why not make an attempt to discuss the point that I'm making about speaker design? I
It might be that @Hear Here 's insistance is tiring for some yet we are on the HiFi section here where a minimum of effort should be seen as 'normal' for those discussing stereo. To see that someone is making an effort to regards sound should make anyone on here happy.I think my main issue isn't your argument, it's the fact that you posit yours as correct and the other side as wrong, rather than there being space for both.
Bit harsh! Literally just spent the last half an hour dismantling a perfectly good coffee table. I’ve got nowhere to put my glass of red nowDispite having written this I do believe the OP of this thread should go for a one box solution. He has made it clear he isn't prepared to make the effort!
My point is exactly that there is room for both options. My issue with @Hear Here's posts (some, not all) isn't that he's persistent in arguing his point. It's the constant assertion that the electronic way is wrong. By all means suggest getting the correct speaker and making adjustments to furnishings. Both perfectly valid solutions. No need to constantly bang the anti-room correction drum though. That's the wearing bit.It might be that @Hear Here 's insistance is tiring for some yet we are on the HiFi section here where a minimum of effort should be seen as 'normal' for those discussing stereo. To see that someone is making an effort to regards sound should make anyone on here happy.
Just bunging a bow into the system to sort out things that can be alleviated and calmed by a little effort is no solution. Even a little effort would make that boxes work a lot easier.
Coming onto what is essentially an audiophile section of a forum and just writing buy this box is just sooo disappointing.
Our discussions shouldn't stop at buy this box and some patience and tolerance should be given to those with more purist and classical opinions. In fact I would propose another sub forum for the one box solutionists.
Dispite having written this I do believe the OP of this thread should go for a one box solution. He has made it clear he isn't prepared to make the effort!