Speaker binding post question

D

Deleted member 910934

Guest
Hi all,

Today I was watching a review of the Q Acoustics Concept 20 by a home theatre enthusiast, and during part of the video he demonstrated how he wires up speakers that have 2 pairs of speaker binding posts using only a single run of cable. He kept the bridges between the posts in place, but rather than putting the positive and negative cables into either the lower pair or the upper pair, he inserted the negative into the lower negative terminal (LF) and the positive into the positive terminal of the HF or upper pair. I've never seen this done before, as I always used the bridges or speaker wire and attached the cables from the amp to the LF or lower pair. I've not tried this for myself yet (will do later this week when I have time), but am wondering if anyone else does this or knows anything about it? I ask because both pairs of speakers I currently use are "bi-wireable". My experience of bi-wiring is mixed: it sounded "different", but not necessarily better, as least not to me. That aside, I'm wondering what this dude is on about. Is he on to something or not? Proof is in the pudding, of course, but for now, opinions are welcome.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

FootHealer
 
I have tried but it makes no difference, to my ears anyway.

The only way to find out is to try yourself. You've nothing to lose.
 
I have tried but it makes no difference, to my ears anyway.

The only way to find out is to try yourself. You've nothing to lose.
I will try...just so busy at the moment. Hardly any time to listen to music. Will let you know nearer the weekend if I heard any difference.
 
I have tried but it makes no difference, to my ears anyway.

The only way to find out is to try yourself. You've nothing to lose.
+1. Tried this and got no difference. Same with bi-wiring. Haven't tried bi-amping, which apparently can make a bit of a difference with hard to drive speakers.
 
Tried bi-wiring a couple of times years ago, and purely based on my experience it either;

1) Made no difference whatsoever, or,
2) Actually made things slightly worse, (reduced soundstage/bass response/higher trebles but not in a good way).

By all means try it as no two rooms, equipment or calibrations are ever the same - just don't expect miracles.
 
Tried bi-wiring a couple of times years ago, and purely based on my experience it either;

1) Made no difference whatsoever, or,
2) Actually made things slightly worse, (reduced soundstage/bass response/higher trebles but not in a good way).

By all means try it as no two rooms, equipment or calibrations are ever the same - just don't expect miracles.
My own experience with biwiring was similar to yours, in that I prefered the sound without biwiring. I haven't tried biamping. Sometimes small changes can create decent benefits, such as the time I swapped the stock binding post bridges for better quality ones. It really improved the soundstage and imaging, more so than buying cables for £15 a meter. However, I am not expecting miracles or much at all from swapping or mix-n-matching terminals. Its fun to mess around though.
 
+1. Tried this and got no difference. Same with bi-wiring. Haven't tried bi-amping, which apparently can make a bit of a difference with hard to drive speakers.
My speakers are 90db sensitive. I have tried biwiring them with a previous amp (45w p/channel) and it sounded worse. My Rotel A11 Tribute is 78w/p channel, has 2 sets of speaker binding posts and the ability to play one or both simultaneously, so I did once try connecting the HF to one set and the LF to another. Perhaps it sounded a little different, but I only tried this for a short time (5 mins) as I was concerned about overwhelming the amp (a naive worry maybe?).
 
I personally don't believe in bi wiring, but I have a thought.
My EVO's have bi wiring posts with plates fitted across connecting the posts.
As my Missus has a jewelry business, I have asked her for 4 lengths of silver 925 to replace those speaker connector plates.
I wonder if it will make any difference to the sound quality?
 
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I personally don't believe in bi wiring, but I have a thought.
My EVO's have bi wiring posts with plates fitted across connecting the posts.
As my Missus has a jewelry business, have have asked her for 4 lengths of silver 925 to replace those speaker connector plates.
I wonder if it will make any difference to the sound quality?
Hi,

I'm not sure about the material you plan to use, but I replaced the stock plates on my Monitor Bronze 5s with jumpers made from decent speaker cable and it made quite a bit of difference to my ears. If I replace the stock plates, there is less detail and more edginess to the sound. I recommend ditching stock plates and using a bit of speaker cable. Works for me.
 
I personally don't believe in bi wiring, but I have a thought.
My EVO's have bi wiring posts with plates fitted across connecting the posts.
As my Missus has a jewelry business, have have asked her for 4 lengths of silver 925 to replace those speaker connector plates.
I wonder if it will make any difference to the sound quality?
That could be the start of a new business and the 'Music Phil' brand to undercut or rival the competition who sell expensive links made from QED. Then expand the product range...
 
That could be the start of a new business and the 'Music Phil' brand to undercut or rival the competition who sell expensive links made from QED. Then expand the product range...
You should check out the Terrilium Black II Jumper cables. A steal at £85 ;)
 
PS. I'll add that I haven't spent £85 on jumper cables. Would feel a bit upset if I had and it sounded no better than a few pieces of offcut speaker cable.
 
Send in a sample for review and AVF best buy recommendation so she can stick the award on the packaging and website.
 
Send in a sample for review and AVF best buy recommendation so she can stick the award on the packaging and website.
It would have been an easy test - one speaker set as per normal and other with silver wire, but my R8 has no balance controls!!! I think she said she's got 18 gauge silver so.....
 
he inserted the negative into the lower negative terminal (LF) and the positive into the positive terminal of the HF or upper pair. I've never seen this done before,
In truth this is no difference to wiring them via the LF, but it basically tells you if one of the connection is not tightened up when first play sound through them without having the hassle of fault finding as it will show itself right away with no sound in place of an odd sound
 
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You should check out the Terrilium Black II Jumper cables. A steal at £85 ;)
Cheapskate


Even more of a steal at £2,990.00 :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl: because you will feel robbed
 
In truth this is no difference it to wiring them via the LF, but it basically tells you if one of the connection is not tightened up when first play sound through them without having the hassle of fault finding as it will show itself right away with no sound in place of an odd sound
This is the reason I wire this way.

Prior to wiring thus way. One of my bass drivers suddenly stopped outputting audio. I'd checked everything, re-terminatting the wire/banana plugs etc, all with no luck. Was about to unplug everything in prep to box up & return the speakers, when I noticed a binding post wasn't tight. Once tightened sound was restored in the bass driver.
 
This is the reason I wire this way.

Prior to wiring thus way. One of my bass drivers suddenly stopped outputting audio. I'd checked everything, re-terminatting the wire/banana plugs etc, all with no luck. Was about to unplug everything in prep to box up & return the speakers, when I noticed a binding post wasn't tight. Once tightened sound was restored in the bass driver.
Yeap, that's what I said as he would have found that no sound would have emitted from the speaker in place of noticing something else which made them think it was an amplifier issue
 
Hi,

I'm not sure about the material you plan to use, but I replaced the stock plates on my Monitor Bronze 5s with jumpers made from decent speaker cable and it made quite a bit of difference to my ears. If I replace the stock plates, there is less detail and more edginess to the sound. I recommend ditching stock plates and using a bit of speaker cable. Works for me.
Silver is supposed to be the best conduct.
So hopefully there will be an improvement, if there is, the next port of call could be rewiring my speakers with silver too.
 
In truth this is no difference to wiring them via the LF, but it basically tells you if one of the connection is not tightened up when first play sound through them without having the hassle of fault finding as it will show itself right away with no sound in place of an odd sound
Hi ShanePJ,

I guess if the sound is fine, and different combinations sound the same, then it doesn't matter. But why would this reviewer recommend this method over others? I have heard people recommend this before. I am going to try and wire the speakers up this way later today. If it makes no difference, then it suggests either the reviewer is hearing a placebo effect when wiring in this way, if its better for him. Can we trust reviews by someone who hears what isn't there?
 
It's simply his preference as he must have had an issue prior when connecting before. I think anyone who has wired up many speakers via the binding posts, will have occasionally come across a pair of speakers where the binding posts are not securely tightened.

I've also seen many people wire them up that way, I've also been told that its better to, but as I mentioned its just for checking as I cannot see how you can gain or loose any sound with some electrons entering the crossover from different ends of the crossover and has to be a simple placebo effect which lets face it, many of us have been susceptible thanks to our lovely ears lying to us
 
Silver is supposed to be the best conduct.
So hopefully there will be an improvement, if there is, the next port of call could be rewiring my speakers with silver too.
As silver is only 7% more conductive than copper it will make zero audible difference with speaker level signals - especially when it oxidises at the connections
 
As silver is only 7% more conductive than copper it will make zero audible difference with speaker level signals - especially when it oxidises at the connections
Yes I know but Silver wire, however, is generally reserved for more sensitive systems and specialty electronics where high conductivity over a small distance ( in my case couple of inches) is prioritized.
As it's free I will try it out as I have nothing to lose all maybe something to gain.
 
If the bridges are in place it won't make any difference to the sound as far as I know. Those bridges carry the signal across the binding posts. Try taking them out and then wiring up your speakers with just two wires and see what happens
 

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