Sony VPL-VW270ES owners thread

[DB9S]

x.v.colour is indeed off. And I cannot find any firmware anywhere. Have to check the version tomorrow. What else would cause the HDR menu to be hidden? The input is recognized as HDR10 and colorspace 2020.

I have included a couple of pictures

The input is set at 1080p. You need to input a 4K signal I would bet. Have you tried that?

Make sure your HDMI ports are set to Enhanced Format too.

 

[DB9S]

Meanwhile I got the idea to check with a BD 4K HDR disk and this give me the option. So the issue lies with the Apple TV. This cannot run in 4k HDR mode with the projector! The trick is to put it in KK SDR mode and then set it to match content, subsequently set HDR to AUTO. This blocks me from changing the gamma correction (I have 4 Gamma profiles for HDR depending on how dark the picture appears). Or I have to set HDR to the appropriate HDR format (HDR10 in most if not all cases). I wonder who is the genius behind Apple's logic.

If you are using gamma curves at any point then it will be an SDR signal.
To get HDR the projector must see HDR coming in. HDR uses a PQ/EOTF curve, not gamma.
You can force it but it will look bad!
Might be an idea to check with ATV owners about this issue because I am sure there are owners of this projector that have it working okay in 4K with ATV.

 

[Nuri58]

The input is set at 1080p. You need to input a 4K signal I would bet. Have you tried that?

Make sure your HDMI ports are set to Enhanced Format too.

Thanks. As mentioned in my follow-up the issue was the way Apple TV talks with the projector. So in 4k SDR and then follow-input. And the projector in HDR Auto so it switches between the menu in HDR and films in SDR.

HDMI mode setting is not important. Arcam seem to have issues with the enhanced mode (at least used to have).

But it is now working correct now.

 

[DB9S]

Thanks. As mentioned in my follow-up the issue was the way Apple TV talks with the projector. So in 4k SDR and then follow-input. And the projector in HDR Auto so it switches between the menu in HDR and films in SDR.

HDMI mode setting is not important. Arcam seem to have issues with the enhanced mode (at least used to have).

But it is now working correct now.

That's great, but setting HDMI mode to Enhanced is crucial if your want HFR (50/60hz) HDR to work correctly without being down converted to 8bit. It is the difference between 10.2/13.5Gbps and 18Gbps.
It isn't just about signals, it is also to do with legal HDMI signals.
If your Arcam can't handle it full fat HDMI, then it needs bypassing (connect projector directly to source) or changing out.

 

[Nuri58]

Ok thanks for this important point. I am using enhanced mode now a days, but in the beginning it was constantly connecting/disconnecting/reconnecting and so on, hence I had to disable it. But this issue has for some reason resolved itself sometime last yéar (at least it doesn't anymore and there have been no FW updates to neither the Arcam not to the Sony)

 

[DB9S]

Ok thanks for this important point. I am using enhanced mode now a days, but in the beginning it was constantly connecting/disconnecting/reconnecting and so on, hence I had to disable it. But this issue has for some reason resolved itself sometime last yéar (at least it doesn't anymore and there have been no FW updates to neither the Arcam not to the Sony)

Did you change the HDMI cable? That sounded like a cable issue.
18Gbps cables are not all created equal.

 

[Nuri58]

No it works perfectly wit the TV (so Apple TV to AVR ok) and my BD ok with the projector. So I can exclude the cable and conclude that it is an Apple TV / Sony projector issue. Incidentally Apple has described the issue which is why I got directed to the right solution.

 

[PassMeTheSalt]

Anyone know if you can clean out the fan(s) on one of these? Mine sits on a shelf and it can get a bit of dust there on occasion. It sounds like some has got into the fans and they are making a bit of noise especially in bright mode. The manual doesn't seem to say anything about a filter or easy fan access.

 

[DB9S]

Anyone know if you can clean out the fan(s) on one of these? Mine sits on a shelf and it can get a bit of dust there on occasion. It sounds like some has got into the fans and they are making a bit of noise especially in bright mode. The manual doesn't seem to say anything about a filter or easy fan access.

Your best bet is to stick your hoover on full and carefully vacuum the vents out.
There is no filter on these to clean.
If it is still making a noise after hoovering, then if it is still under the three year warranty, contact your dealer and/or Sony Prime Support.
If not under warranty anymore, then you could maybe take the lid off yourself and see what's up. Entirely at your own risk of course.

 

[Naiera]

The projector is very obviously treating 1080p and 2160p differently, I just learned, comparing the same movie on normal Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray.

The image is very noticeably brighter with 2160p input, which is obvious to see in the picture itself and on the projector's menu. 2160p input from my (first gen) Apple TV 4K is the same, and the brightness goes down when I set it to 1080p.

Does anyone know how to get rid of this difference? There's no HDR, BT.2020 or anything happening. The 2160p sources are all outputting BT.709.

 

[DB9S]

The projector is very obviously treating 1080p and 2160p differently, I just learned, comparing the same movie on normal Blu-ray and UHD Blu-ray.

The image is very noticeably brighter with 2160p input, which is obvious to see in the picture itself and on the projector's menu. 2160p input from my (first gen) Apple TV 4K is the same, and the brightness goes down when I set it to 1080p.

Does anyone know how to get rid of this difference? There's no HDR, BT.2020 or anything happening. The 2160p sources are all outputting BT.709.

Sounds like you need to set your HDMI ports to 'Enhanced Format' as a first step.
See what that does.

 

[Naiera]

They are already.

I'm using an HDMI switch, so everything's going into the same input, with, obviously, the same calibration settings.

 

[DB9S]

They are already.

I'm using a HDMI switch, so everything's going into the same input, with, obviously, the same calibration settings.

It would help if you listed out all your kit and what modes it is using so people have more of a chance of pinning it down.
In any case, you need to check your AVR to see if it is set tot full 18Gbps bandwidth mode. Then check that your source(s) are set to full bandwidth modes too.
Then you need to eliminate the switch from the equation by connecting each source directly to the projector to see if they work as expected.
HDMI switches are notorious weak links as far as full bandwidth HDMI is concerned, which is why you need to see if things work with it not in the loop.
You are getting BT709 so something in the chain either cannot pass BT2020, is set wrong, or maybe the cables are not up to it.
Sometimes having just one piece of kit set to 'Auto' for the signal can make everything else in the chain negotiate the lowest common denominator to display.
It is a bit of a minefield TBH.
Good luck.

 

[Naiera]

There’s no AVR. I use an HDMI switch, so there’s nothing to set to full bandwidth. It supports HDMI 2.0 and all sources is running through it. I get both the bright images and the not so bright ones through the same device. It’s a bit hard to compare devices if I can’t use the switch that’s obviously not the problem anyway.

I’m using an Oppo BDP-103 set to 4:2:2, an Apple TV 4K (G1) and a Sony UBP-X700. As mentioned, the ATV also goes to (what I assume is) normal brightness when set to 1080p. The difference is what resolution the projector is receiving.

As mentioned, I’m not looking to pass BT.2020!

 

[DB9S]

What is the make of switch and where does your sound go if not to an AVR?
This is also hard to put a finger on when we have no idea of your subjective preference with brightness.
Are you getting the sources to convert HDR to SDR? That would be the best way to get consistent brightness between SDR/HDR sources.
You will not get proper HDR without BT2020 BTW, so that may be the issue in itself.
Why aren't you using HDR?
Pictures of what you are seeing in each instance may help.

 

[Naiera]

The make is Lindy and it’s not the issue.

The sound goes directly to my DAC.

I’m not using HDR because HDR on projectors is crap, I can’t calibrate it anyway and I don’t want to run the lamp at high mode.

My subjective preferences regarding brightness are irrelevant. The projector was calibrated on 1080p and it’s really weird that it’s showing 2160p with higher brightness. It’s not supposed to do that.

 

[DB9S]

The make is Lindy and it’s not the issue.

The sound goes directly to my DAC.

I’m not using HDR because HDR on projectors is crap, I can’t calibrate it anyway and I don’t want to run the lamp at high mode.

My subjective preferences regarding brightness are irrelevant. The projector was calibrated on 1080p and it’s really weird that it’s showing 2160p with higher brightness. It’s not supposed to do that.

I suppose it is possible it may be faulty then. 4K SDR should have no difference in brightness than 1080 SDR. Do you have any HDR/SDR conversion slider set too bright anywhere?
Is HDR switched off on the projector?
One way to check if you are getting full bandwidth (thereby negating cables and down stream equipment issues) is to pipe 60hz HDR to the PJ. If you get an image your setup can take the bandwidth.
I am running out of ideas as it is kind of unusual.
Have you contacted Sony Prime Support to see what advice they can give? Might be an idea.
Good luck in getting a solution.

 

[Naiera]

It can't do 2160p60, as I found out today (the cable from the switch isn't good enough, and this is really annoying because I've already installed it away), but 2160p24 is fine. I don't see how that's relevant to this, though.

There are no HDR/SDR sliders on the Apple TV, yet I get the exact same problem with a brighter image, which I guess is actually the contrast setting being higher "behind the scenes" on 2160p input.

HDR is turned off on the projector.

 

[DB9S]

It can't do 2160p60, as I found out today (the cable from the switch isn't good enough, and this is really annoying because I've already installed it away), but 2160p24 is fine. I don't see how that's relevant to this, though.

There are no HDR/SDR sliders on the Apple TV, yet I get the exact same problem with a brighter image, which I guess is actually the contrast setting being higher "behind the scenes" on 2160p input.

HDR is turned off on the projector.

Checking 60hz merely checks the system is capable of accepting and displaying and current best HDMI 2.0 signals. A good baseline to have nailed down.
Maybe put HDR on the projector to 'auto' to see if that helps.

 

[Naiera]

And it's not able to do 2160p60. I found out today. The HDMI cable doesn't have the bandwidth. 2160p24 is fine. As mentioned.

Putting HDR on Auto does nothing.

 

[DB9S]

It is just best to have cables that can cope with the full bandwidth.
Dunno then. It is a strange one. Please post up if you find the cause and/or a solution.

 

[Naiera]

My projector just "restarted" randomly. Just powered down and powered up again on its own. It's been running for 996 hours, and had been running for less than four before it decided to restart.

 

[DB9S]

I assume you don't mean 996 hours continuous operation (!) as it is not designed to be run in that way.
Did it have any flashing LEDs on the front when it shut down?
If it did you need to look at the sequence and then check in the troubleshooting section of the operating manual what it says the issue might be.

 

[Naiera]

As mentioned, it had been running for (just under) four hours when it happened

And it didn't actually shut down; it just started again (I thought I edited my post to reflect this, but I guess I forgot to hit Save). There was no shutdown sequence and the only flashing LED was the green power one, flashing exactly as it would during any normal powering up sequence.

It operated normally for a few hours after that and then shut down normally.

 

[DB9S]

Maybe it was a simple blip in the power then.
I would be inclined to just use it as normal and keep it eye on it, but wouldnt worry unless it does it more than a couple of times with increasing frequency.
I had my 760 shut down unexpectedly a couple of times not long after I first had it, (both under 200 hours) but it has not done it since, with a couple of thousand hours now under its belt.