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Sony Cineza VPL-HS1:PJ-MULTI connector how to

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by elche99, May 7, 2002.

  1. elche99

    elche99
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    Hi all,
    finally i solved the "pj-multi" problem and i want to share the solution with the
    community.
    Mainly because of the Sony policy that sells an awful cable, limited in lenght (max.5mt) at a terrible price: all that thanks to the pj-multi proprietary connector.
    Following the pinouts:
    1 nc
    2 nc
    3 nc
    4 Audio - R
    5 Blue (B-Y)
    6 GND
    7 GND
    8 Audio - L
    9 Green (G-Y)
    10 GND
    11 GND
    12 H
    13 Red (R-Y)
    14 nc
    15 GND
    16 V
    17 nc
    18 nc
    19 Y
    20 DDC SCL
    21 GND
    22 nc
    23 C
    24 DDC return
    25 GND
    26 nc
    27 C-video
    28 DDC SDA
    29 GND
    30 nc
    31 nc
    32 nc

    and the order of pins , watching the connector from the wire
    clipping side (the side where you put in the wires on the connector) is:
    31-29-27 ...............5-3-1
    32-30-28 ...............6-4-2

    If you want to build an adapter with the connector that is on the cable that comes with the cineza you can, but pay attention because you need a lot of patience due to the extreme thickness of the wires that are compatible with the pj-multi: my advice is to mantain the adapter as shorter as you can and use a "wire-wrap" cables.

    If you want to send to cineza an 15k RGB signal don't forget that you must connect the syncro signal of your source(that usually is on the Composite- Video) on the pin 12 (H sync) of the pj-multi. Obviously other connections are between R, G and B pins.

    Is not recommended to use for GND the pin 29 because it has a resistor on the cineza internal , while all other GND are connected each other on the cineza side.
    I've succesfully built, after a lot of unsuccessfully trials, a SCART-PJMULTI and a VGA-PJMULTI connector.

    The cable that Sony use for their optional (and exceptionally priced) cables is the LTK cable that you can find here: http://www.ltkcable.com/ LTK_p_20379.htm

    Hope all that helps people to have a better connection at a reasonable price.

    bye

    elche99

    ps
    crossposted to:
    www.avsforum.com
     
  2. Gavin_Hall

    Gavin_Hall
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    Cool, If only I were brave enough to try it myself :) I can just about manage to solder two chunky pieces of wire togther, I wouldn't like to imagine the damage I could do with the PJ multi-adapter :)

    How easy did you find the soldering? How much prior experiance would you say you would need to be able to do this?

    cheers

    Gavin
     
  3. elche99

    elche99
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    On the pjmulti side you don't need soldering , because the connection are done with a "computer flat cable like" system:
    wires are pressed between two very very very small pieces that comes directly from the connector's external contacts.

    bye
    elche99
     
  4. Kevin Harris

    Kevin Harris
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    Hi elche99,

    Well done on making the cables, I was just getting around to replying to your reply post on the thread to which I started on this topic.

    I see you made 2 cables, did you buy another cheaper av-pj-multi to do this or do you have all your connections going to the same original cable that you get with the projector.

    Also it looks in my haste to make my diagram I miss counted the pins from from the left so my diagram needs to be updated.

    Thanks again

    Kevin
     
  5. Gavin_Hall

    Gavin_Hall
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    Hi elche99,

    Do you think standard sheilded CAT5 cable would work OK. I haven't looked inside the free pj-multi adapter yet so have no idea how small the connections are?

    CAT5 cable I suspect will be cheaper than the cable you mentioned.

    cheers

    Gavin
     
  6. elche99

    elche99
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    Kevin,

    at the moment I have only one adapter pjmulti-vga due to the fact that there's is only one free pjmulti connector that comes with the cineza.
    I connect to the adapter a vga-vga cable or a vga-scart cable depending on the source.
    To avoid connect&disconnect from the adapter I'm thinking about a Y cable connected to the adapter on one side, and to the other mentioned cables on the other two sides: I'm not sure if is a good thing for the signals, I mean going thru another pair of connectors.
    What do you think?

    __________________

    Gavin,

    if CAT5 are the cables that are used in ethernet connections, the internal wires aren't thin enough to stay inside the internal connectors of pjmulti.
    I tried it and was unsuccessfull, while I succedeed with the "wire-wrap" wires that are generally sold in the electronics shops.
    I didn't use the cable from LTK, I've indicated it because if you go thru hits specifications you'll find the diameter of the internal wires that are the accepted ones by pjmulti.

    thanks to all

    bye

    elche99
     
  7. Gavin_Hall

    Gavin_Hall
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    Elche99,

    Thanks, well I had the freebie supplied PJ Multi-connector in bits this evening ! What fun it is taking things apart :) I tried the CAT5 cable (Yes the same as ethernet cable) and "yes" it was too large :-(

    One thing that perplexed me was how do you get the wires into the black "holding" socket? I can see the tiny holes where the cables slot into, but the wires that are in there already are held tight, does the black socket open up? I tried to gently prise it open within the black socket but it didn't want to move. I am sure this is a latch that will allow it to open up but I can't see it. Or do you try and prise it open via the metal prongs?? Any tips?

    When you mention "wire wrap" cables what do you mean? Have you a url you can point me to?

    I can see this turning into a major project this weekend :)

    cheers

    Gavin
     
  8. elche99

    elche99
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    Gavin,

    you have to open the "black "holding" socket" by gently disengage , on the short sides, that little plastics latch.
    Then you can gently pull the little "comb" that guides the wires in their contact.

    You have one "comb" on (pins 31....1) and another one down (pins 32.....2).

    My advice is to treat extremely gently these "micro -comb" because of their fragility and, most important, because you need them intact to position wires, that are pressed in their right contact just thanks to these two "micro-comb".

    To do all work you definetely need a good lens and a lot of...patience :))

    I was addressed to "wire-wrap" from a guy of an electronic shop and then, sorry, but I haven't an url to give you.

    Sorry for my english that was put in serious trouble by this
    "technical" matter :))

    bye

    elche99
     
  9. Gavin_Hall

    Gavin_Hall
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    Elche99,

    Your English is fine, don't worry about that at all :)

    I saw the side latchs, tried to gently prise them apart.....and all that happened is I managed to break off one half of the latch :-( I guess I need a little more practice.

    I will try again over the weekend, after a trip to the local electrical shop to get some very thin cables :)

    Thanks for your help.

    Gavin
     
  10. frog

    frog
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    Elche99, Gavin, Kevin,

    Thanks for this most useful information, i have made a cable using the information you have provided, but I get a "ghosted" image, any ideas why ? I have used a vga extension cable which I cut and connected to the PJ-Multi. The cable has shielding, should I connect it to anything like the body of the PJ connector, ground pin... help much appreciated.
     
  11. Gavin_Hall

    Gavin_Hall
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    Frog, Don't know if I can be much help really. I had the same problem with my Home PC, the image was ghosting, however with my laptop, the image was fine. I can't remember what I had the outer sheilding connected to, I know I tried lots of different options!!! I never did get to the bottom of it.

    Gavin
     
  12. frog

    frog
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    Gavin_hall,

    Thanks for your reply :smashin:, I re-made the cable this week end, hoping that it could be a bad connection, however, I still have the same problem. Looks like I will have to keep looking.

    Cheers
     

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