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Solid timber for DIY rack, what are the costs?

Discussion in 'AV Stands, Cabinets, Seating & Furniture' started by buns, Apr 6, 2004.

  1. buns

    buns
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    Need a rack for an upcoming plasma and to house equipment. I love the look of the arca stuff, but Im almost out of cash so cant afford the price tag. It is a fairly simple design so I was considering building something along the same lines. Number one way is to use MDF and then veneer or fablon it. However, I think it would be nicer if I could just make it out of solid timber that just would need varnished. This presents the problem that Ive never really looked for reasonable quality wood. I have a few places I can go to look but it will be a few days til I can go and look. Does anyone know the sort of costs? Say for a solid lump that is 72 inches by 22 inches by I guess something like 3/4 inch?

    many thanks

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  2. Adrenochrome

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    Why don't you just buy veneered m.d.f and give it 4 coats of clear varnish you won't be able to tell it aint solid timber.

    Adrenochrome.
     
  3. Taz

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    But...

    You will need to add a solid timber lipping to give the effect.


    Go for 19mm x 19mm lipping for 18MM MDF then sand down flush.

    If you get stuck for lipping, give me a shout.

    :smashin:
     
  4. Taz

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    What sort of timber are you after??

    I can get you a price from work to give you some idea.
     
  5. buns

    buns
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    Thanks guys...... what is lipping? Is that like adding a trim? Veneering the edges?

    I only propose solid timber because it sounds the easiest route needing only cutting and sanding. Im afraid that this being my first fo at veneering would end up a mess :(

    Taz,
    I dont really know what im looking for, I guess something cherry kind of finish, but in realist that doesnt really matter since it would be easy enough to stain. Just some decent quality wood that doesnt have w whole load of holes or imperfections..... i get the feeling thats not a terribly good description! Might just have to wait til I can get to a merchants somewhere!

    thanks again

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  6. Taz

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    Lipping is added to an MDF panel before its veneered so that the ends of the MDF look like solid timber. as I said, for 18mm MDF you would use 19MM square timber and sand top and bottom to flush before veneering it.

    I'll sketch something up to show you what i meen.
     
  7. Taz

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    ;)
     

    Attached Files:

  8. buns

    buns
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    Ah thats great thanks Taz, pretty much lipping is what it sounds then! However I still suspect that it would be tough to veneery it cleanly, backed up by anpther member getting his done on a 40 grand machine!

    all the best

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  9. Taz

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    Just asked at work and depending on the timber around £50.
     
  10. buns

    buns
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    thanks Taz..... thats quite costly...... there would be a couple of hundred pounds of wood...... maybe it would be easier to find someone to veneer it for me!

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  11. Adrenochrome

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    Buns you should be able to buy an 8x4 sheet of 19mm cherry veneered m.d.f. for circa£40 and while you are at it get a roll of iron on cherry veneer and just iron it on.

    I'd defy anyone to tell you it ain't solid cherry (which incidentally is quite soft for a hardwood).

    Adrenochrome.
     
  12. buns

    buns
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    where would you buy that? Just B&Q

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  13. Adrenochrome

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    God forbid no they would only charge you too much.

    Find a small woodyard with a trade counter and get some prices from them.

    Adrenochrome.
     
  14. buns

    buns
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    oh right, thats great thanks :)

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  15. Taz

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    Is that including me :devil:

    ;)
     
  16. Adrenochrome

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    Yep;)

    Adrenochrome.
     
  17. Taz

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    :laugh: I can tell my plastic from my timber!:D
     
  18. buns

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    how good or bad would a cherry fablon that you get from B&Q look on MDF? would it just look cheap and crap or would it look half ok?

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  19. Adrenochrome

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    It would look crap mate.

    I have a solid red oak floor with pretend cherry veneer tannoy speakers and i know what i prefer.

    Adrenochrome.
     
  20. buns

    buns
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    not a man to mince words! :D

    Maybe just paint it then..... does it sound like im suddely realising the magnitude of my proposal?!

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  21. Adrenochrome

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    Paint is a 4 letter word mate:laugh:

    Trust me you'll be glad you went with the veneered m.d.f. with 4 coats of lovely gloss varnish on it:cool:

    Adrenochrome.
     
  22. avanzato

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    Buns: Have a close look at the edges on commercially produced furniture or even Monitor Audio Silver series cabinets. I'm pretty sure they're made from pre veneered panels that are then machined. You will find that the exposed edges are usually just the MDF core stained the same colour as the rest of the item.
    Easy finish.

    I wanted some MDF panels and had them cut to size (for a small extra charge) at my local timber shop. Then it just becomes a basic self assembly exercise.
     
  23. buns

    buns
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    Thanks again,

    adrenochrome: am i right in thinking that I can get the veneer to do the edges at the same wood merchants that would sell the veneered MDF?

    Avanzato: It would be great is somoene could cut it all for me, save me having to buy a circular saw! Will look into that as well!

    many thanks

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  24. Adrenochrome

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    Yeah you would be right, just a pity you ain't in Scotland as we offer a free cutting service.

    Adrenochrome.
     
  25. Flimber

    Flimber
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    Pointless of me to mention it - but I will do anyway :clown:

    Last season Ikea carried this item:

    [​IMG]

    It was hidden away in their 'dining' range - which might explain why nobody else but me noticed them. The dimensions were very close to an Arca cabinet (the '200', IIRC ?) and the feet are very similar too...but this Ikea version was less than a tenth of the price :eek: In the flesh it looked nice, was sturdy enough for a brace of A/V kit and the handles are changeable if you'd prefer something less faux antique or whatever.

    I never managed to get over to the Leeds one near me to buy one and then they discontinued it for 2004 :( I'm thinking about asking them to reinstate it or source me one somehow but I'm not hopeful.

    Mike.
     
  26. buns

    buns
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    Thanks Flimber,

    Unfortunately Ikea dont deem NI as worthy of a store :(

    oh and check you pm box when you get a chance :thumbsup:

    all the best

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  27. Flimber

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    Check yours too.

    Mike.
     
  28. steve-j

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    I am currently facing pretty much the exact same probelms and decisions to be made as buns! I like the Arca furniture but it isn't quite right/too expensive etc. so intend to attempt to build my own cabinet to house equipment below my Plasma.

    I have settled on using pre-veneered mdf and getting hold of it isn't a problem (there are several places a mile down the road from me that stock it , at least according to their websites!)

    The tricky bit is the finished edge. I don't want to use iron on strip for all the reasons discussed above which leaves solid wood lipping.

    However I'm not really sure of the best way to attch it.
    Should I add the lipping to each panel before the panels are assemebled into the cabinet or should I build the cabinet and then attach what will basically look a picture-frame of lipping to the front of it? And how do I attach the lipping? Just glue? Glue and nails (leaves nail heads which is a bit ugly)?

    How thick should the lipping be? Will it look odd from the side as it will never totally match the veneered panel?

    Finally, when joining all the veneered mdf panels together the chances are that there are going to be some screw heads visible. How can I cover these? Can you get just the veneer to make little screw caps? Maybe I can just cut the veneer off some mdf scraps to make them!

    Do these questions make sense? I can knock up some pictures if you've no idea what I'm talking about!

    Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks,

    -Steve
     
  29. Taz

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    Solid lipping is not your answer, its 'job in life' is to go on MDf / chipboard panels before they are veneered.

    Your best bet is to put a moulding on the edges with a router and seal the MDF edges with some MDF sealer after a few coats, sanded inbetween, it will blend in nicely.

    And as for your screws :nono: dowels for MDF give a much better joint and no heads!


    End of my MDF lesson for today :lesson:


    :)
     
  30. steve-j

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    Taz, thanks for the impromptu lesson! Unfortuanately the slow student is struggling to get a 100% clear solution in his head!

    When you say put a moulding on, do you mean attach a solid strip of pre-moulded wood or do you mean rout the edge of the mdf panel?

    The edge I want to "make good" needs to be flat and will be covered by a door. It only really needs to be done for basic cosmetic purposes when the door is opened.

    A brief side on view in ASCII-art is:

    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D
    ############!D

    ## = Veneered mdf panel
    ! = Cut edge of mdf panel theat needs to be finished
    D = Door that will cover the cut edge when closed but will allow it to be seen when open

    I really just want something that is flat. I could just use the iron-on stuff or even paint it as it won't be seen that often but I I'm sure there must be a better, more professional way!

    As for the dowel vs screws; I was planning on both! Are dowels really going to be that much stronger than screws? I would like these joints to be pretty strong and am already concerned that they won't be strong enough (see my query to viper_va in the MDF A/V rack thread in the DIY forum). I like the idea of doing a basic lap joint (if that's the correct name) for some added strength. Not sure how well lap joints and dowels work together though!

    Thanks,

    -Steve
     

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