Smart home - lighting, CCTV, heating etc?

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
I suggest you possibly invest in a mock-up system to ensure you and maybe your electrician can play with and understand the system

its what I use for testing

light fitting (ideally the one you are likely to use in the ceiling)
Varilight/scolmore Switch
Shelly Module
Wired into a standard plug and lead
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
With regard to your scene question.

This may be a little hard to grasp initially (sorry if that's condescending) but Shelly have a module called an i3. This is just for scene control and allows up to 3 switches to be used as scene controllers with each switch having multiple actions each potentially running a different action or scene.


ie

1 click - All bedroom Lights Off
2 clicks - Turn Off all lights at home
3 clicks - Close Blinds


It requires 240v power (Line and neutral) and ideally would be used with 2 position retractive switches


1622192055561.png

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More details here

 

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Smurfin

Distinguished Member
With regard to your scene question.

This may be a little hard to grasp initially (sorry if that's condescending) but Shelly have a module called an i3. This is just for scene control and allows up to 3 switches to be used as scene controllers with each switch having multiple actions each potentially running a different action or scene.


ie

1 click - All bedroom Lights Off
2 clicks - Turn Off all lights at home
3 clicks - Close Blinds


It requires 240v power (Line and neutral) and ideally would be used with 2 position retractive switches


View attachment 1519381
View attachment 1519380

More details here


Not condescending at all...I don't understand the technicalities behind this stuff :)

To prove my point....here's a dumb question ;)

To if I want to add scenes, effectively I need to add one of these modules to each room, for up to 3 switches?

You mentioned particular switches for dimming control yesterday, do you have any links to varilight versions?
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
So if I want to add scenes, effectively I need to add one of these modules to each room, for up to 3 switches?

Yes if you want to control scenes via a switch, obviously you can use voice or app as well.

Using the Varilight (or scolmore) modular grid system you can have both actual light switches and scene control switches on the same plate.

You mentioned particular switches for dimming control yesterday, do you have any links to varilight versions?
For dimming

https://www.myswitchshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7541

For scene control

 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
Finally, for the moment, Shelly also have a motion and lux sensor so you can further automate lights on/off

ie if motion detected and lux level below 100 then turn on living room light

 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
Yes if you want to control scenes via a switch, obviously you can use voice or app as well.

Using the Varilight (or scolmore) modular grid system you can have both actual light switches and scene control switches on the same plate.


For dimming

https://www.myswitchshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7541

For scene control


So if I'm not bothered about scene selection from the switch and just via voice or app, I don't need that scene module?
 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
Another question...let's say I have some artwork that I want highlighting - I used to use angled GU10s to do this.

In my Rako system I used to have the art lights on a separate circuit.

I'm wondering if there's a better way here....how about if I had all lights in a room on the same circuit, but just used a smart bulb like Philips Hue or something similar as the highlight lights. Does that make sense to do?
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
So if I'm not bothered about scene selection from the switch and just via voice or app, I don't need that scene module?

yes that is correct, it was really just an answer to your question earlier regarding what you could do with Rako and that it was possible
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
Another question...let's say I have some artwork that I want highlighting - I used to use angled GU10s to do this.

In my Rako system I used to have the art lights on a separate circuit.

I'm wondering if there's a better way here....how about if I had all lights in a room on the same circuit, but just used a smart bulb like Philips Hue or something similar as the highlight lights. Does that make sense to do?

If it was me i'd still have it as a separate circuit but technically you could do what you say.

The problem being if you turn off the other lights you wouldnt then be able to use the highlight lights
 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
If it was me i'd still have it as a separate circuit but technically you could do what you say.

The problem being if you turn off the other lights you wouldnt then be able to use the highlight lights

Yes I get that, just thinking in those situations I would rarely have all of the other lights off, I'd just have them on a low brightness, with the art spot on full.

So right now my initial electrical works are looking like this:

Bedroom 1

Spotlights in ceiling on one circuit (Shelly dimmer2 x 1)
Pendant bedside lights on their own circuits (Shelly dimmer2 x 2)
Light switches either side of bed (3 x gang - what varilight plate would I need, brushed steel finish?) with 3 G102SRS in each
Light switch by bedroom door (1 x gang, with 1 x G102SRS in it)

Bedroom 2/3/4

Spotlights in ceiling on one circuit (Shelly dimmer2 x 1)
Light switch by bedroom door (1 x gang, with 1 x G102SRS in it)

Landing

Spotlights in ceiling on one circuit (Shelly dimmer2 x 1)
Light switch by bedroom door (1 x gang, with 1 x G102SRS in it)
Shelly motion sensor (for kids coming out of their rooms at night)

Have I got that right? Just not sure what switch plates to go for..


 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
Just to clarify, where I'm just replacing the existing wall switch with the new one, I wouldn't need to change any wiring to those switches with the shelly dimmer2s?
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
Just to clarify, where I'm just replacing the existing wall switch with the new one, I wouldn't need to change any wiring to those switches with the shelly dimmer2s?

There's a question !!

That will depend on the wiring to those switches, if there is a neutral at the switch then that should be fine. If there isnt a neutral then ideally you would want to run one but if thats not possible then the dimmer 2 can be run without a neutral but you need to have a minimum load on the circuit of around 20W (the spec says 10w but take that with a pinch of salt) . If the load isnt 20w then you need to add a Shelly bypass ( basically a smart dummy load).

The wiring diagram is also different see below

1622210673684.png
 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
There's a question !!

That will depend on the wiring to those switches, if there is a neutral at the switch then that should be fine. If there isnt a neutral then ideally you would want to run one but if thats not possible then the dimmer 2 can be run without a neutral but you need to have a minimum load on the circuit of around 20W (the spec says 10w but take that with a pinch of salt) . If the load isnt 20w then you need to add a Shelly bypass ( basically a smart dummy load).

The wiring diagram is also different see below

View attachment 1519569

Stupid question time. I have 2 lighting circuits which are controlled by a 2 gang plate with 2 switches, and they control the separate circuits. Do I need a dimmer2 for each of the 2 lighting circuits? (if so I'm wondering how that would work in terms of fitting 2 within one backbox!)
 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
hmm I see the Ring 10 piece alarm kit is on offer for £199 today...something of a bargain. I would like to integrate everything, but the price difference is huge - I guess the only thing I would want to do is for the alarm to trigger lights with specific events, but not sure that justifies the cost!

Any thoughts?
 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
Well I have to say, this has been something of a disaster so far!

The dimmer2s are unusable due to:

Every circuit suffers from flickering lights, regardless of the brightness setting (I’m using the bypass and everything is wited

One dimmer2 keeps shutting down the lighting circuit due to overheating

Frequent WiFi drop outs showing devices offline

The dimming range is very poor (could be the lamps)

The Varilight retractive switches feel horrible to use - and only the down switch works for both on/off and dimming…using it as a dimmer is best to impossible as the light jumps pretty much from off to on

My electrician is just about to take everything out and install normal dimmer switches while I work out how to move forwards .

an exercise in frustration so far it must be said!

my light fittings are ansell with Integral GU10s but I don’t think they have anything to do the problems
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
If circuits are flickering then it’s definitely a load or fitting problem especially if all dimmer 2 have the same issues

if one is overheating then it’s overheating and protecting itself

WiFi dropouts are down to coverage especially as the modules are in walls so coverage has to be rock solid

if varilight switches not working they are either wired incorrectly or not set correctly in the app

are you sure your leds are actually dimmable
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
I suggest you possibly invest in a mock-up system to ensure you and maybe your electrician can play with and understand the system

its what I use for testing

light fitting (ideally the one you are likely to use in the ceiling)
Varilight/scolmore Switch
Shelly Module
Wired into a standard plug and lead

Did you do the above before fitting , as you probably could have ironed out the issues before full install ?
 

Smurfin

Distinguished Member
If circuits are flickering then it’s definitely a load or fitting problem especially if all dimmer 2 have the same issues

if one is overheating then it’s overheating and protecting itself

WiFi dropouts are down to coverage especially as the modules are in walls so coverage has to be rock solid

if varilight switches not working they are either wired incorrectly or not set correctly in the app

are you sure your leds are actually dimmable

quite a few reported issues with flickering it seems. Definitely wired correctly and all circuits with bypasses.

I’m not quite sure what there is to iron out…it’s all been done correctly. I’m a little stressed right now as in the process of sanding floors, moving house tomorrow!

Back to the automation drawing board I think…
 

Seb Briggs

Distinguished Member
Flickering is a load issue

do you have a link to the model of downlighting used

if it was done correctly you wouldn’t be having the issues I’m sorry to say

I understand the frustration but best to make sure everything is correct before dismissing the solution otherwise you may end up keep being frustrated

Setting in app is dual button mode
 

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