Question Shooting With no OSS

Discussion in 'Photography Forums' started by topgazza, Jun 8, 2015.

  1. topgazza

    topgazza
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    Advice seems to be to shoot at 1.5 or 2 x focal length so 24mm would be 1/40 to 1/50 ish but with 1/60 being a sort of minimum but depending on light to eliminate "blur" a higher ISO than indicated as well. Obviously holding the camera as still as possible is a good start but sometimes thats not possible such as Dan's dog on beach shot.

    So is it reasonable to use the formula above or are there any other basic things to do...other than tripod or wall/ fence etc... as I mean hand held
     
  2. twist

    twist
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    You really need to consider wether your subjects moving, if its stationary you could probably get down to 1.5x FL handholding, but because the setup is light Id call it 1/60 as per my previous post.
    Moving subjects will be according to speed of movement and if you want to freeze the motion. Remember that OSS will only really be effective at slower shutters, think lower than hand holding.

    Are you likely to primarily walk around at night taking photos of stationary subjects that will require low ISO? Then you could also use a tripod.
     
  3. topgazza

    topgazza
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    Do you mean Jim outside his local off licence ? No not really, although being at ground level I can put the camera on the ground I suppose

    Interesting that OSS is only really properly functional in certain circumstances and it makes sense thats mainly at low shutter speeds. Again, sounds obvious but I automatically look for somewhere to lean against or rest the camera when its poor light... OSS or not.

    Thanks again for that and the "rule" seems to be as high a shutter speed as appropriate bearing in mind the 1.5 x FL minimum. Just taken a few shots with my kit at 24mm again with OSS off and outside so fairly sunny with shutter of 1/200.... no problem and sharp with stationary and slightly moving flowers.

    A light bulb goes on.....
     
  4. twist

    twist
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    That lightbulb is a green light for your purchase imo.
     
  5. topgazza

    topgazza
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    Is there any other colour ?
     
  6. Johnmcl7

    Johnmcl7
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    I think the formula is a good starting point but you do learn what you can get away, it varies considerably depending on the camera, lens, subject etc. Although IS can't help subject motion, it's still handy for taking photos where you're moving the camera quickly to track a subject (like a race car) and want a lower shutter to speed to get a blurred background whereas too high a shutter speed will freeze the motion of the car (which looks terrible)

    As well as leaning on a wall or similar, if you're on the edge of a blurry shot sometimes burst mode can help to rattle off a few shots and get a sharper one amongst them.

    John
     
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  7. topgazza

    topgazza
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    It is a case of doing what the circumstances demand and not just relying on the camera to do the magic. I always think there can be a tendency to rely on the technology too much... not a bad thing in itself as that what its there for....but there is usually a trade off somewhere.

    Burst mode is a good idea
     
  8. snerkler

    snerkler
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    As above, you need to learn what you can do with your setup. I use the basic rule of 1/focal length for static subjects but tend not to go below 1/60 for static subjects unless using OS/VR/IS. The IBIS on the EM5-II is so good I can actually hand hold at 80mm eq @ 1s :eek:
     
  9. snerkler

    snerkler
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    Is that what they call hit and hope? :p
     
  10. topgazza

    topgazza
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    The Oly IBIS was very good indeed. Its the one thing missing from the A series.... but it would be a nice to have rather than essential
     
  11. snerkler

    snerkler
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    Agreed. It's one of Olly's main pitches but I don't really get it. I've never bought a camera based on the IBIS as it's something easy to overcome. But it is nice to have it, and it does prove useful in low light.
     
  12. shotokan101

    shotokan101
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    trivial maybe but always try and get the half-pressed shutter button first and not just jab when shooting and John's burst mode suggestion is good - can also try manually (as opposed to burst) taking two or three exposures in quick succession and checking for best...

    ...also stance/"string tripod/monopod trick" here

    Prevent dSLR Camera Shake With These 3 Techniques - Digital Photography School
     
  13. topgazza

    topgazza
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    I normally hit the shutter with a small Scottish child ...or one of the Krankies.

    But it's a very good point and important to remove that initial movement
     
  14. snerkler

    snerkler
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    Do people do this? :confused:
     
  15. shotokan101

    shotokan101
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  16. topgazza

    topgazza
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    Some good tips there. Maybe obvious to some but a handy reminder.
     

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