Shed of Darkness 9.4.6

kenshingintoki

Distinguished Member
In real use I’m getting 142 hdr nits calibrated with Filter on a 123in wide screen with -2 iris on high. (1.3 gain Stewart screen)
i guess the really amazing thing about that is you know you're going to get that figure for a very long time too.
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
This will do for the time being, pretty much silent from my seating position now on low lamp, will do something a bit more semi permanent over the weekend which should be more effective still.

The more I watch, the less I think I’m going to need high lamp, now I’ve sorted the lumagen settings, in my room at least, the brightness feels just right, such a beautiful image!!

1B994193-E838-42B3-A78B-BC155FDEEDCD.jpeg
 

adamleon

Active Member
Yes
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Needs to be wrapped in velvet and a bit of an eyesore, but this has worked an absolute treat!! High lamp in now quieter than low lamp before this modification, I’d actually say high lamp is now around the same as I had my Sony on 80%.

Really pleased now!

Have a listen, this taken from exactly the same place as my other recordings.


EADBDEDB-9BE7-4E34-943C-ADD5231504D3.jpeg
 

mossym

Distinguished Member
no worries about heat build up with the front closed in?
 

adamleon

Active Member
I’d be really keen to understand that design too. Do you have fans built into hush box to keep air moving through?
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
All that worrying and you've fixed it in a couple of hours :laugh:

PS - please post design plans :D
Design plans? This is me we’re talking about!! All done on the fly 😂😂
no worries about heat build up with the front closed in?
Not at the moment, the design allows the air to move freely within the box, exhausting to the sides and rears.
I’d be really keen to understand that design too. Do you have fans built into hush box to keep air moving through?
Again, not at the moment, I don’t think it needs fans as I can feel the warm air being pushed out of the sides if I put my hand against the “exit”. I need to run a longer test, I only used it for 25 minutes or so, but the fans didn’t ramp up any higher and the projector felt pretty cool to touch afterwards.
 

IWC Dopplel

Distinguished Member
Guessing you are sealing as good as possible then diverting the air around to a rear exit then lining the box with sound proofing ?
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Guessing you are sealing as good as possible then diverting the air around to a rear exit then lining the box with sound proofing ?
Exactly this mate. Difference is HUGE and only has a small amount of absorption in the box at the moment. Will add more tonight (when I get some more) and need to make a couple of minor adjustments over the weekend for a more finished article.

Hoping it won’t need any extra help for the hot air to exhaust, but if it does I’ll install a couple of noctua fans in it to help full the air away from the box.

This might help to explain to others.

 
Last edited:

Triggaaar

Distinguished Member
Design plans? This is me we’re talking about!! All done on the fly 😂😂
:laugh: Well I guess I'm asking, what is the layout of what you ended up building. We can see the front - is there a flat top and bottom, or is there no top? and what about the back? And also, what insulation or foam did you put inside.

The front looks roughly how I imagine I'll build mine.
 

Datalus

Active Member
:laugh: Well I guess I'm asking, what is the layout of what you ended up building. We can see the front - is there a flat top and bottom, or is there no top? and what about the back? And also, what insulation or foam did you put inside.

The front looks roughly how I imagine I'll build mine.
I’d be really interested too!

I was thinking of trying to build a complex ducted vent system with fans to exhaust the air away from the front of my projector and send it down my bulkheads before exhausting it to the room. If your testing shows it is quiet enough with it exhausting at the front/sides then that would be a game changer for me and I might actually get up the energy to tackle the problem/project.
 

IWC Dopplel

Distinguished Member
Another thing you could try is 30 cell air filter foam at the exit if its wide 10mm thick should be fine and not restrictive if over a large area can be quite good for reducing noise as well if needed (Youll bye pumping less air than a car at 6,000 rpm !)
 

LittleNipper

Well-known Member
@mb3195 if you did feel you needed some more forced air to ensure the bulb / projector is kept cooler, I would recommend using a Noctua NF-A12x25. Based on my experience in amps with this manufacturer of fans, they run almost silent ( or at least quieter that your projector ) and would help keep what is a very expensive bit of kit cooler. With a little bit of work you could add a logic board and thermostat to get it to kickin at a certain temp. However, simple is usually best, so. would have it on all the time.
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
@mb3195 if you did feel you needed some more forced air to ensure the bulb / projector is kept cooler, I would recommend using a Noctua NF-A12x25. Based on my experience in amps with this manufacturer of fans, they run almost silent ( or at least quieter that your projector ) and would help keep what is a very expensive bit of kit cooler. With a little bit of work you could add a logic board and thermostat to get it to kickin at a certain temp. However, simple is usually best, so. would have it on all the time.
Yeah I’ve been thinking about one of these fans.

Any suggestions on the easiest way to wire up to a 240v mains supply being a 12v fan?
 

IWC Dopplel

Distinguished Member
Yeah I’ve been thinking about one of these fans.

Any suggestions on the easiest way to wire up to a 240v mains supply being a 12v fan?

The 12v trigger form the PJ ?
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
The 12v trigger form the PJ ?
That would be very simple, electrics and electronics aren’t my strongest point……

So, 12v trigger cable, the other end cut off spliced into a positive and negative, wired directly into a fan.

Could they be daisy chained?
 

Harkon321

Well-known Member
Could you wire it to a USB plugged in to a Smart Socket, so it's on a routine.

Does the 12v trigger send a constant 12v or just a signal and then stop?
 

mb3195

Distinguished Member
Could you wire it to a USB plugged in to a Smart Socket, so it's on a routine.

Does the 12v trigger send a constant 12v or just a signal and then stop?
No idea, an older post on avs states it supplies a constant signal until the projector switches off.
 

LittleNipper

Well-known Member
No idea, an older post on avs states it supplies a constant signal until the projector switches off.
To be honest, I don't know the answer and I'm currently sitting with pieces of paper planning my room build which isn't easy when the baby is seeking attention. I'd suggest emailing the manufacturer. I did with a query I had and they came back the following day with a solution for me !!
 

IWC Dopplel

Distinguished Member
That would be very simple, electrics and electronics aren’t my strongest point……

So, 12v trigger cable, the other end cut off spliced into a positive and negative, wired directly into a fan.

Could they be daisy chained?

I never got round to trying but assuming I think the 12v is either on or off, so worth investigating, yes regarding wiring
 

mossym

Distinguished Member
i'm not sure i'd be happy to run anything from the 12V trigger. it's a line level output, bascially just meant to alert something down the line that it has been turned on, it's meant to go into a high impedance input , which means it has little or no ability to drive current.

now the fan will draw very little current, so it should in theory work, but on an expensive projector i'm not sure i would be even thinking of risking it. i think i'd get a small 12V Dc supply and use it, or a 5V USB supply with one of these
Amazon product

input side @5V, output side @12.

edit, sorry, thats a buck converter, let me find a boost
 

mossym

Distinguished Member
and with regards daisy chaining, you're drawing even more current from an output that wasn't meant to drive current
 

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