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Setting up projector and screen help

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by (GTV)Chris, May 16, 2003.

  1. (GTV)Chris

    (GTV)Chris
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    Yo all,

    3 weeks till I move to my new house which has a 14ft x 9.5ft room for my cinema.
    I have an AE100 and an 8ft electric 16x9 screen from OWL.
    What is the best way to approach setting it all up.

    Do I turn on the panny with a picture and walk back and forth from the screen then attach to the cieling??

    How high from the cieling do I hang the screen. Does the top have to be a desired distance from the roof.

    I want as little key stoning as poss. Will be using an HCPC.

    Also - is there an easy way of concealing all the wires - i.e. Should I channel it into the walls and then plaster over the top.

    Lastly - where do most have the power point for the projector if on the cieling? I want the finished thing looking as neat and tidy as possible.

    Many thanks

    C.
     
  2. Kramer

    Kramer
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    Recommended screen height has your eye level (in the seated viewing position) approximately one third up from the bottom edge of the viewable screen area.

    Few can accommodate this, but it certainly makes a difference IMO.

    Lots of other questions there - will pass them onto other AE100 owners :)
     
  3. theritz

    theritz
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    Chris,

    Yaaargh ! my head hurts !!!:suicide: !!

    Here goes:

    Nope...... Mount the screen on the wall, arranging the screen height as Kramer suggested. Then put a coffee table or similar the approriate distance (Projectorcentral.com is your friend for throw distance calculation) from the screen, and find the exact correct distance to give you a Keystone-free, minimum zoom setting to fill your screen. You should now know exactly the distance between the lens (not the centerline of the projector !) and the center of the screen, and the distance between the lens and the floor, as well as the distance between the bottom of the projected image and the floor. Establish the difference between these two distances (Floor and PJ lens, Floor and bottom of screen image).

    Now you need to position your ceiling mount so that the lens is positioned along the centerline of the screen, and the distance between the ceiling and the PJ = (the distance between the top of the screen area and the ceiling + the difference figure established in the previous paragraph). You should now be right as rain.

    Word of warning........ if you position the screen a good distance from the ceiling, you may find that you have to position the PJ quite low in order to avoid keystone - low enough to bop your head off it when you stand up - not to be recommended. Advise doing some basic calculations beofre hand to get a compromise between position of screen and this factor. A comfortable viewing angle for screen, as suggested by K is important - you don't want a "looking at the stars" viewing angle, but make sure you can accomodate a decent compromise when going to fit them out for real.



    This can be a bit of a pain - you indicated that it's a new house - see if you can get the builder to leave the skirting boards loose-fitted and put your cable runs behind them (including a "fish" wire for pulling through and later cabling) and stick them into place with Nomorenails at a later date. Alternatively, run the cables underneath the carpet.




    Try to get the electrician on the build to put a socket (switched from the wall of your HC would be nice.....) on a joist in the ceiling along the centreline of the room beneath, with an access panel in the floor above. Hole in the ceiling, use the circular fitting from a halogen downlighter as a finish, and plug your PJ in directly.


    Hope this helps........... even if they've finished the house, doing these kind of things is far far earier before you decorate etc.


    All the best,

    Sean G.
     
  4. (GTV)Chris

    (GTV)Chris
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    Thanks very much.
    Sounds like it's going to be fun :)
    I dare say my wife has a few tantrums to look forward to :devil:

    Cheers

    Chris
     
  5. Bert Coules

    Bert Coules
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    Sean,

    ...to give you a Keystone-free, minimum zoom setting to fill your screen.

    When you recommend a "minimum zoom" setting, do you mean with the zoom lens roughly at the centre of its range? Or at the wide-angle setting?

    I've never experimented with different zoom settings for the same size image (never had the range of options for projector/screen placement which would be necessary) but if there really is an optimum arrangement, especially for the AE100, I'd be interested to know it.

    Ber
    www.bertcoules.co.uk
     
  6. theritz

    theritz
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    Hi Bert,

    My setting is about mid-way, but I find that I get better image quality if I reduce the zoom so that the PJ is projecting the "smallest" image that it can. Now this perception could be because the smaller image (72" wide as opposed to a usual 84" wide, or thereabouts) could be because the image is smaller and therefore more "dense". However, if the image is "zoomed" up to it's greatest size, it stands to reason that as each pixel is magnified, so is the gap between them - increasing the visibility of screendoor. Of course it also depends on the viewing distance of course......... I certainly think that 8' wide is the quality limit for the AE100, at that size and greater I think that the picture loses light output and screendoor becomes a serious issue.

    Before I had the AE100 permanently mounted, I had the opportunity to position it so I got a 7.5' wide image, with no zoom at all and I reckon that was the best result I could get. This arrangement can't be replicated easily in my movie room, as there would be insufficient clearance behind the PJ for heat to escape - the Art of Compromise in the world of FP !!!

    All the best,

    Sean G.
     
  7. Bert Coules

    Bert Coules
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    Sean,

    Thanks for the reply. I too am limited for screen/projector placement: there's a wall in the way of the former and an RSJ ceiling-beam in the way of the latter. My permanent setup has the zoom lens at its widest-angle setting and as it happens that gives me an ideal image size; I'd like to experiment by moving the projector backwards while adjusting the zoom to keep the image size constant, but it just isn't practical.

    Bert
    www.bertcoules.co.uk
     
  8. Stinja

    Stinja
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    Good stuff, i'm about to do a permanent mounting for my screen/PJ too, but i have even more basic questions - sorry for this but i really havent done this before, and i'm a non-english person trying to work out the eccentricisties of an english house...

    So for the PJ mount im thinking i'll place it on an internal brick wall. I assume i have to drill some holes into the bricks, then use those little plastic plugs, then use screws to screw the mounting into the plugs? i can do plaster-board NZ walls, so its not like i'm a DIY disaster-zone, but if someone can confirm this for brick english ones as i'm not sure if it matters if you hit brick or mortar, or where you hit the bricks when drilling. Like do you strip the wall to make sure you hit the centre or the bricks?

    The screen i suppose i will fix to the ceiling, as its in front of the fireplace and would mean huge sticky-out brackets if wall mounted. Do you just screw hooks into the main joists of the ceiling, and attach the screen to that, or do you suspend the screen somewhat with chains or rods so there's less unused white area?

    Yeah i've read the FAQ, but i cant make out the diagram writing to see what length screws they mention... again sorry for the request for really basic info...
     
  9. (GTV)Chris

    (GTV)Chris
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    Hi

    I don't claim to know a lot about DIY but I have now completed my home cinema.
    The projector mount. If you have plaster board over the brick work there aint much hope in being able to hit the mortar. Just use a good quality masonry drill bit. The screws, I seem to remember, are quite thin, so there shouldn't be the possibility of cracking the brick. Good quality rawl plugs are a must. JUst make sure the screws are long enough to clear the plasterboard and sit snugly into the plugs.
    My mount is in the ceiling and I had to use the special plasterboard HEAVY DUTY expanding screws.
    This is probably what you need for the screen, unless you hit lucky and find a wooden joist. The screw sheaths are tapped into a pre drilled hole, normally between 6 - 8mm. Then position the screws and keep rotating them until the sheath on the inside if the ceiling begins to expand out forming a sort of starfish shape.
    Now I have to admit, if your screen is very heavy they may not be strong enough, and for that reason I played it safe and screwed my screem into a wall. I am unsure as to what model your screen is? But the neater the better. If it is retractable then think about how it would look better when not in use as this is how it will mainly be seen. When the lights are out and the movie is playing, I care less about the look, as I get totally immersed in the film.
    A lot of this is trial and error, but there are loads of great people on this forum that always give me very sound information.
     
  10. The Hat

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    Hi. Am quite new to this so excuse me if it's a silly question, but will I get lip-sync problems if my screen is mounted around 2 feet in front of my centre speaker?
    Thanks
     
  11. AV Nik

    AV Nik
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    Hey' The Hat,
    This is not my speciality at all but I do have some experience.
    The few experiences I have with 'out of sync audio to video' were when the cables were of poor quality or over an extra long length.
    I think on one occasion the video cable (composite at the time) was 15mtrs long but the sound was close to the DVD playback unit so we used a short cable on the same system (by removing pj off mount and placing close to DVD playback) and the audo was in perfect sync. We then knew it wasn't the video processing speed of the pj but the cheap cable we bought from Maplins.
    One other occasion was in a pub where the cables ran up down left right here there and everywhere. In the end, we had to use a special Crestron system to handle all the control of audio/video.
    Another was in a Hotel but we just used a signal booster to handle this which worked a treat.
    I guess as long as the pj can process the video immediately you shouldn't see any problems.
    I'm sure some of the more experienced guys can offer better advice but I Hope this helps.
     
  12. The Hat

    The Hat
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    Thanks for your help! Very useful!

     

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