setting peak white on OLED

shoot3r

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I guess the ABL can mess with things if using full screen patterns, so when setting peak white, should I use a window pattern? Also, I should probably shoot for about 30-35 ftL in a dark room, correct?
 
Not sure it applies to other panels, but I gave it shot on my 55" C6. Using window or APL patterns (same result), I set peak white to 35 ftL which is the THX recommendation. I ended up with:

For a dark room
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 51
OLED light: 28
Gamma: 2.2

I'll see how it goes, but it looks good so far. I've read a common complaint of using gamma 2.2 is that it looks too washed out, but I've noticed that as OLED light is decreased, it looks better.
 
Good info, but I'm mainly concerned with SDR for now.
 
Not sure it applies to other panels, but I gave it shot on my 55" C6. Using window or APL patterns (same result), I set peak white to 35 ftL which is the THX recommendation. I ended up with:

For a dark room
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 51
OLED light: 28
Gamma: 2.2

I'll see how it goes, but it looks good so far. I've read a common complaint of using gamma 2.2 is that it looks too washed out, but I've noticed that as OLED light is decreased, it looks better.

Unless you are watching in absolute darkness I suggest aiming for 170 nits (50fL) light output rather than the THX recommendation of 120 nits.
Even in a dark room 140 - 170 nits combined with a decent bias light like the MediaLight 6500K would be a better approach.
All of the current OLED sets tend to look better when using a higher OLED light setting and unless you have a south-facing room with a great deal of sunlight you shouldn't need a day memory also.

There is nothing wrong with aiming for a power law 2.2 gamma if you like the resulting image despite it attracting criticism. It is certainly easier to discern near-black detail with any ambient light in the room when 2.2 is the target.
There are a great deal of varying opinions on where gamma should be set, even amongst professional calibrators.
 
Thanks. I typically do my "serious" viewing in my living room with all the lights out. It's not like a blacked-out bat cave, but it does get pretty dark. I'm actually finding that even 120 nits is pretty bright in this environment. Part of it could be that I'm just not used to the huge contrast ratio of these OLEDs.
 
So apparentyl you can fight ABL by increasing OLED light and decreasing Contrast. What are the disadvantages of doing it this way compared to the "normal" method of leaving Contrast near-100 and lowering OLED light?
 
So apparentyl you can fight ABL by increasing OLED light and decreasing Contrast. What are the disadvantages of doing it this way compared to the "normal" method of leaving Contrast near-100 and lowering OLED light?

I've read that lowering contrast too far from the default can cause issues, but not sure 'cause I never really tried it. I haven't really noticed ABL being a problem, but I've seem some people complain about it.
 
Thanks. I typically do my "serious" viewing in my living room with all the lights out. It's not like a blacked-out bat cave, but it does get pretty dark. I'm actually finding that even 120 nits is pretty bright in this environment. Part of it could be that I'm just not used to the huge contrast ratio of these OLEDs.
That is where a good bias light would help to alleviate eyestrain and also allow a higher light output if so desired.

So apparentyl you can fight ABL by increasing OLED light and decreasing Contrast. What are the disadvantages of doing it this way compared to the "normal" method of leaving Contrast near-100 and lowering OLED light?
Using the ideal setting for contrast and black level maximises your dynamic range. The contrast control should be as high as possible without causing loss of important detail.
Additionally if you move too far away from the ideal setting the multi-point white balance controls may be misaligned and consequently wouldn't be effective.
 

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