shoot3r
Established Member
I guess the ABL can mess with things if using full screen patterns, so when setting peak white, should I use a window pattern? Also, I should probably shoot for about 30-35 ftL in a dark room, correct?
Not sure it applies to other panels, but I gave it shot on my 55" C6. Using window or APL patterns (same result), I set peak white to 35 ftL which is the THX recommendation. I ended up with:
For a dark room
Contrast: 85
Brightness: 51
OLED light: 28
Gamma: 2.2
I'll see how it goes, but it looks good so far. I've read a common complaint of using gamma 2.2 is that it looks too washed out, but I've noticed that as OLED light is decreased, it looks better.
So apparentyl you can fight ABL by increasing OLED light and decreasing Contrast. What are the disadvantages of doing it this way compared to the "normal" method of leaving Contrast near-100 and lowering OLED light?
That is where a good bias light would help to alleviate eyestrain and also allow a higher light output if so desired.Thanks. I typically do my "serious" viewing in my living room with all the lights out. It's not like a blacked-out bat cave, but it does get pretty dark. I'm actually finding that even 120 nits is pretty bright in this environment. Part of it could be that I'm just not used to the huge contrast ratio of these OLEDs.
Using the ideal setting for contrast and black level maximises your dynamic range. The contrast control should be as high as possible without causing loss of important detail.So apparentyl you can fight ABL by increasing OLED light and decreasing Contrast. What are the disadvantages of doing it this way compared to the "normal" method of leaving Contrast near-100 and lowering OLED light?