Service Menu - Toshiba xxZD26P HELP

bibooo

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I recently solved the geometry problems I had with this set by altering some of the parameters in the service menu (with the help of AVIA), however convergence is still an issue.

Can anyone explain in detail what these settings do (most importantly the ones which would help set convergence). I have a basic idea of some settings, but I am no expert.

RCUT

GCUT

BCUT

GDRV

BDRV

BRTC

SCNT

COLP

COLS

SBY

SRY

HPOS

HIT

VLIN

WID

PARA

CNR

TRAP

CPAR

HSC

VPS1

CSAW

OPT3

Many thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten us all.

bibooo
 
Sorry bibooo, I can't answer your question, but could you tell me how to get into the service menu on the 36zd26p, since I have some geometry problems of my own.
Thanks.
 
Press mute (on the remote) then press and hold mute again, press the menu button on the side of the TV (whilst mute is still being pressed).

Scroll through the settings by using channel up/down, alter the settings by using the volume up/down. Make sure you write all the settings down before you make any changes.

From memory, these settings alter the geometry:

HPOS

HIT

VLIN

WID

PARA

CNR

TRAP

CPAR

HSC

VPS1

CSAW

I will not try to explain what each one does, for fear of some tech-head correcting my explanations.

bibooo
 
I'm no moniter expert but some of these parameters seem obvious-ish to me. Feel free to correct me of course since this is just a lil stab.

RCUT - ?

GCUT - ?

BCUT -? If you look at it, it could be the RGB Values but I'm hardly sure

GDRV -?

BDRV -?

BRTC - ?

SCNT - ?

COLP - ?

COLS - ?

SBY - ?

SRY - ?

HPOS - Horizontal Position

HIT - ?

VLIN - Vertical Alignment ??

WID - Width ??

PARA - Parallelog? Top and bottom images being parallel of each-other

CNR - Pin Corner? The angle of the corners of the image, either being more convex or concave.

TRAP - Trapeziod? (Basically the amount of tapering on the top half of the TV)

CPAR - ?

HSC - ?

VPS1 - ?

CSAW - ?

OPT3 - ?

Thats all I can think of right now lol. I'll have to do some actual research on these parameters and if anything pops up I'll post it.
 
Be very careful...

RCUT - Red Cutoff
GCUT - Green Cutoff
BCUT - Blue Cutoff

GDRV - Green Drive
BDRV - Blue Drive

BRTC - Brightness Centre

SCNT - Subcontrast

COLP - Colour (PAL?)
COLS - Colour (SECAM?)

SBY - May be something to do with conversion between Blue and Luma
SRY - May be something to do with conversion between Red and Luma

HPOS - Horizontal Position
HIT - Height
VLIN - Vertical Linearity
WID - Width
PARA - Parabola (i.e. Pin Cushion)
CNR - Corner PARA (better pincushion control at 4 corners)
TRAP - Trapeziod
CPAR - Centre PARA (better pincushion control at 4 corners)
HSC - Horizontal S-Correction (?)
VPS1 - Vertical Phase Shift (?)
CSAW - Centre SAW

OPT3 - I wouldn't touch things like this!
 
I haven't had the nerve to touch the service menu just yet but if my TV keeps on messing up in prog.scan mode then I might have a little tinker, after recording all of the default settings of course.

Has anyone found out a way to force prog.scan to 4:3? Rather than limiting the user to widescreen, super live etc.
 
jase the space,

That's exactly what I was after. As I said, I know what most of them do, it's just a few which I am not sure about.

VLIN is just the vertical position of the screen.

HSC seems to tilt the picture on a horizontal access in the middle of the screen.

I would have posted my own explanations, but some people have to go out of there way to criticise without being constructive.

Which settings would alter convergence?

Why is OPT3 something I shouldn't touch?

The problem I have at the moment is, when I view any white text on dark backgrounds, there seems to be a red outline at the top of the lettering. This suggests to me that the red gun is not firing in the same position as blue and green.

I have used AVIA to display a test (called dots) which is all black with white dots spaced evenly across the entire screen; towards the top of the screen the effect isn't visible, but as you look further down the effect becomes worse. Each white dot has an overlapping red dot just slightly above it.

Any ideas?

Many thanks,
bibooo
 
AFAIK you cannot adjust convergence on Tosh CRTs (on rear-pro sets). My Toshs had slight convergence problems at bottom right corner but nothing too bad. If it is a problem get it swapped out.

I suggest you don't touch anything that you don't know what it is! You can break the TV by fiddling the wrong things.
 
Does anyone have the original factory settings. I have just bought a 32ZT29B, the box was damaged but all else seemed intact. There does seem to be a problem with the set in that any graphics (including teletext) have a very slight slope from right to left. I assume the picture is the same although it is difficult to tell.

Am thinking of sending it back (as I already informed them that the packaging was damaged), but as the set is so difficult to move I though it might be worth a try and see if this can be corrected using service menu.

Any help would be welcome, particulalry the settings so that I can check them.

Thanks
 
bibooo, I know you've used the Sevice Menu to adjust the geometry on your set. Could you tell me if you have to adjust each Zoom Mode (wide, 14:9, 4:3 etc) seperately, and if you have to do something to store the settings, other than simply adjusting the value? When I make adjustments in one Zoom Mode, it seems to affect the settings in another. Also, how do you exit the Service Menu?
ps. if you press the AV input button on the remote, whilst in Service Mode, then you get a full colour field for the three primary colours, and then a grid pattern generated by the TV.
 
gmt steve,

I think you simply turn off the TV to store the changes and exit the service mode.

Not sure how the settings from one zoom mode effect another.

astern,

I don't think that looking at settings from another TV will allow you to make a check on yours because as I understand it, most TVs will have different factory defined settings. I think that there is a wide degree of latitude in the manufacture of CRT tubes and the whole point of the service mode is then to calibrate every CRT with it's own required settings to bring it into tolerance.


regards
cow
 
gmt steve,

You are correct; each alteration you make in Wide will affect the geometry of 4:3, 14:9 etc. To store the settings, simply exit the service menu (by switching the TV off).

I achieved the best results by making the geometry in Wide mode almost perfect, then going into 4:3 and "tweaking" the adjusted settings so that 4:3 was as good as I could make it, without ruining the geometry of Wide.

14:9 is perhaps the hardest picture mode to set, I found the adjustments I had to make to get 14:9 to look almost perfect were affecting the geometry of Wide (adversely). As Wide is one of the main picture modes I use, I decided to leave 14:9 as it was.

In the end I had to compromise and make the 3 modes I use most (Wide, Cinema and 4:3) look as near to perfect as possible. I can tell you that you will never get all the picture modes to look perfect, especially if you try and alter 14:9. However if you concentrate on three of the picture settings you use the most, you can achieve almost perfect results.

P.S Thanks for the tip on the AV button, I will have to see what results I get using the TV's own test grid.

Good luck !
 
Thank God for that bibooo, I thought I was being dim. That's exactly the problem I have found, with 14:9 being very troublesome. I'll try doing it your way and see what results I get.
Congratulations on the 36", good move.
 
I ressurected this thread as it is 99% relevant for the ZP38 series. The only different is the new VPS2 adjust.

My situation is I used the service menu to "adjust" the picture.

However, I now realise, I must have pressed the aspect ratio button and changed the settings on Superlive, which I now use for the football from Europe.

I thought the settings were the same, but, alas not. AND I only wrote down the WIDE, 4:3 settings, which were the same.

Using "Biboo"'s list, augmented by "NeoBlade" and "jase the space" I have "#" the ones that are different on Superlive from Wide, this could be due to me having messed up, though.

RCUT - Red Cutoff
GCUT - Green Cutoff
BCUT - Blue Cutoff

GDRV - Green Drive
BDRV - Blue Drive

BRTC - Brightness Centre

SCNT - Subcontrast

COLP - Colour (PAL?)
COLS - Colour (SECAM?)

SBY - May be something to do with conversion between Blue and Luma
SRY - May be something to do with conversion between Red and Luma

# HPOS - Horizontal Position - WIDE 34H, SUPERLIVE 3CH
# HIT - Height - W 29H, SL 35H

VLIN - Vertical Linearity
VPS2 -

# WID - Width - W 29H, SL 14H - SL does not fill screen
#PARA - Parabola (i.e. Pin Cushion) - W 15H, SL 1CH
# CNR - Corner PARA (better pincushion control at 4 corners) - W 13H, SL 18H

# TRAP - Trapeziod - W46H, SL47H
CPAR - Centre PARA (better pincushion control at 4 corners)
# HSC - Horizontal S-Correction (?) - W 10H, SL 11H
# VPS1 - Vertical Phase Shift (?) - W 78H, SL 7CH
CSAW - Centre SAW

OPT3 - I wouldn't touch things like this!


Superlive, currently does not fill the screen. Having adjusted the WID I do not notice any big difference to WIDE (apart from the obvious HIT). The golfishbowl effect, apparent on my neighbours Thompson is not as evident. Isn't SkyNews bottom rolling bar, supposed to speed up and expand at the edges and squeeze down and slow down in the middle, as Superlive should?

Can someone , please, give me their settings. I will use the difference to adjust Superlive, pleaseee
 

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