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seleco sdv 500

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by lee123, Aug 28, 2003.

  1. lee123

    lee123
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    hi all i have a seleco svd 500 and i have just moved, i put it up to the closest i could get but it is out a little bit, i have the manual that it come with but don't seem to understand it well, are they a step by step guide out there?


    thanks all
     
  2. lee123

    lee123
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    or are they anyone in the ipswich suffolk area who could help me out, for a fee

    thanks lee
     
  3. buns

    buns
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    maybe drop chris frost an email.....

    ad
     
  4. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Lee,
    If I read your post correctly the projector is now at a different throw distance. If so, then you'll need to do a full convergence which includes moving the angle of the lenses, refocusing, then setting the geometry and finally converging Red & Blue on to Green. You'll do the geometry and convergence 4 times; 4:3 and 16:9 NTSC, then again for 4:3 and 16:9 PAL. I'm all in favour of people understanding their own projectors, so if you are confident then by all means have a go yourself.

    Tools Get yourself down to Halfords and pick up a Long Reach No#2 Philips screwdriver. You'll need that for the screws holding the R & B lenses. Then get 4 new AAA batteries and a PP9 for the black service remote. A copy of AVIA or the Video Essentials test discs would also make your life a lot easier too.

    What follows is a rough guide to the general process.

    1.) Warm up projector (20 mins on white test pattern, 4:3 setting, NTSC source)
    2.) Do a Convergence Reset and set the blanking to Zero for all four sides.
    3.) Bring up a test pattern suitable for focusing (H Char's works well) Reduce Contrast to get a sharper image, then cover or switch off the R&B lenses. Focus Green (Centre and Edge), repeat for R & B.
    4.) Use a simple Cross test pattern and shift the R&B lenses to overlap green in the centre only. Recheck R&B focus and re-adjust if neccessary.
    5.) Switch to a suitable test pattern for geometry. Cover/switch off R&B. Follow manual for setting the geometry on Green (use only the CONV controls). Memorise settings as you go.
    6.) Switch on Red tube. Follow manual to converge Red to Green. Memorise settings as you go. Repeat for Blue. Set blanking.
    7.) Bring up the NTSC 16:9 memory bank, repeat from Convergence Reset.
    8.) If the NTSC convergences are good then copy them down to the PAL equivalents then tidy the convergence errors and adjust blanking.
    9.) Finish off with adjustments of the picture settings for Contrast, Brightness, Colour, Hue and Sharpness.


    Convergence is a skill that can be learned but it's very difficult to pick up from a manual. Even a step by step guide won't give you the experience to spot when one setting is affecting another, this sort of knowledge only comes with practice. For this reason I can't be more specific at diagnosing your convergence errors and I can't take any responsibility for the results or consequences of you attempting your own convergence.

    Good luck.
     
  5. lee123

    lee123
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    thanks chris
    a lot to take in!!!
    when i took the projector down i took Measurements, and i put it back up to them Measurements.
    but it is out a bit , still Watch able but not right clear
    will i still have to do all that?
    also when i had it up before it was not that bright , a little sun thu the window and i could not see a thing, any way of making the pic more intence!

    thanks lee
     
  6. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Lee,
    Only you can judge if you need to do a whole convergence. As a quick guide try checking the focus like this:
    Turn off the Line Doubler (UPC button on the handset) and bring up the Cross Hatch test pattern. Turn off Red & Blue - if the Green focus is good you should see that each horizontal line is made up of two separate lines with about a 2mm gap. This should be easily visible when you are stood next to the projector.

    As for sunlight on the screen, there isn't a projector made that would fit in your home that is capable of beating the sun, sorry. It's the reason why pop concerts, shopping centres and sporting events like football matches and Wimbledon use LED Videowalls rather than front projection.

    The best solution is to stop the sunlight. Have a look at curtain blackout lining material. Big department stores like John Lewis's sell it by the metre. You can get it in cream or white and it is totally light impervious. Once you have stopped the sunlight hitting your screen you can look at adding lights to your room that will give enough brightness to read by but won't destroy your picture.

    Regards
     
  7. lee123

    lee123
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    thanks m8 i will try that just got to find the remote now its in one of these box,s!!!!
     
  8. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Ahh...moving house, what a joy ;)
     
  9. AndyFov

    AndyFov
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    And DEF controls, surely? :devil:

    A very useful post Chris, thanks. I'll be having another stab at getting my 400 finely honed later on. I managed to get both the convergence and geometry setup nicely, however I couldn't do anything to lose a large bright patch on the left of the screen - I presume that's an area of tube unused by the pj's previous owners's 6000hrs use.

    I slid the screen a few inches to the right, and have played with the deflection settings so there's now only a 1" lighter band down either side. I fear the only proper fix for this is to move my ceiling bracket back a couple of inches. Hmm, I think I'll learn to live with it for now. Perhaps it'll be easier to make my screen narrower. ;)

    That written, I don't think my ceiling is parallel with the top of the screen anymore. After five years with various types of heavy gadgetry bolted to it, I think the ceiling must have bowed a little. I'm having to use a little more SKEW than I'd like to to make the image true. It looks like I'll be blowing the dust off my spirit level later on, and fixing some spacers on the bracket!

    One thing. When I turn on the UPC the deflection settings needed are *way* different to those used without. I have to stretch the horizontal deflection size close to its max setting. IS this normal?

    TIA

    Andy
     
  10. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    Quite correct about DEF reather than CONV controls :blush: :)

    UPC on/off will affect the geometry settings like you have found. Can't imagine why you'd want to watch anything that isn't line doubled via the UPC or iScan etc though :suicide:

    With UPC and the projector at the correct throw distance (1.42~1.5 x screen base line width) you should be able to fill the screen with Size setting in the 65~78 region.

    Sure you wouldn't like a visit from the Doctor ;)

    Good luck
     
  11. AndyFov

    AndyFov
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    That has since dawned on me. Having moved up from a 350 I didn't really think about the doubler when I started tinkering. When I pressed that UPC button I was just surprised by the extent the UPC played havoc with the deflection settings. I'm going to use 4 banks as you suggested, the converter will be ON for each of them. :)

    I'd love one, unfortunately I'm die-hard NHS and can't afford those Harley Street prices. :devil:

    Seriously, at the minute I'm treating it as a challenge, and just trying to fathom it out is keeping me entertained for the minute. If I'm ultimately defeated you'll be the first to know. :)

    Andy
     
  12. Chris Frost

    Chris Frost
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    LMAO :rotfl:
     
  13. lee123

    lee123
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    dammmmmmmm
    its no good i will have to get someone in!!!!!!!!!!
    anyone know oneone in the ipswich.... suffolk area

    thanks lee
     

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