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Sanyo Z1 ceiling mounted

Discussion in 'Projectors, Screens & Video Processors' started by calscot, May 21, 2003.

  1. calscot

    calscot
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    Just mounted my Z1 on the ceiling using an excellent mount specially designed for the Z1 by LMP. Found it here: http://www.lmp-pc.co.uk/mount.shtml.

    They also do HS10 and Panny AE 100 through 300.

    It's very well made, looks really cool and is other half friendly.

    Here's some pics:

    From the side just after I've fastened it to the ceiling:
    [​IMG]

    From the back showing where the wires enter the down tube to go up into the ceiling. There are also cable ties to keep them tidy.
    [​IMG]

    With the pj mounted - The unsightly cabling is temporary - I'm going to put the cables into the ceiling later...
    [​IMG]

    A wider view from the front:
    [​IMG]

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  2. Underscore

    Underscore
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    Wish they had done these when I got my Z1 - a lot cheaper and better looking than the UniCol that I have!

    _
     
  3. calscot

    calscot
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    Yeah, it's by far the cheapest one I could find which is designed to fit perfectly without having to mod it yourself.

    I can't image a better looking one either and a dawdle to put up too.

    The lens shift also helped as I didn't have to worry about getting any measurements exact especially the length of the down tube.

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  4. calscot

    calscot
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    Here's a few more photos:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The lens flap doesn't close properly due to an FLD filter.
    [​IMG]

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  5. Bristol Pete

    Bristol Pete
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    Calscot, what exactly does this filter do ?

    I didnt realise that the Blue Z1 look quite so good.

    Nice job:smashin:

    Captain Benefit.
     
  6. calscot

    calscot
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    As I understand it, the theory goes like this: flourescent bulbs give off a greenish light. To make a pj correctly coloured, the green gain has to be reduced. This reduces the contrast ratio as the full range of the green LCD panel is not used. The projector also tends to have trouble with reds are they are muted in the spectrum of light given out.

    By using a flourescent day filter, the light is now the same spectrum as daylight meaning that the reds will be richer and the green can be turned up giving a better contrast ratio.

    I've recalibrated with Avia and the results are subjectively an improvement although not jaw dropping so and of course - it could just be psychological. :)

    Some people say it also tones down screen door, but I can't see any difference.

    Blacks do seem a tiny bit blacker but there will be less light coming out and so all shades will be slightly darker except for the improvement caused by the increase in the green gain.

    I got the filter soon after getting the projector, and so can't say I have the sensitivity from experience to say how good any improvement is. Maybe I should have a play.

    I bought it on the recommendation of Smurfin' and others and it cost about £18 delivered from the US.

    Glad you like my setup... :) My partner likes the blue as it matches the room's colorscheme, as does the silver.

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  7. timlloyd

    timlloyd
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    Calscot

    I'm interested by the LMP mount and just wondering whether I need the keystone kit or not with my Z1. Could I ask with the Z1 ceiling mounted and with the lenshift set vertically to a minimum, where does the image fall? above or below the bottom most point of the mount?
     
  8. Mr Bump

    Mr Bump
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    Looks really nice. And :rotfl: at the extension cable balanced on the uplighter - I remeber being in a very similar situation for a few days when I first ceiling mounted my pj!!
     
  9. avanzato

    avanzato
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    At maximum/minimum vertical lens shift, the top or bottom edge of the screen will line up with the centre of the lens. I got the Keystone with my LMP mount as from experience you can never have too many possible adjustments.

    It's important to get the LMP made to the right length. The further from the ceiling you have the PJ the more options you have with positioning the screen. Though you don't want it so low you hit head on it. :D As a general guide you want your eye level to be one third of the way up from the bottom of the screen. Mine is higher than this and I'd find it a bit uncomfortable to watch if I didn't have a recliner.

    The mount is well made and looks very classy in real life.
     
  10. calscot

    calscot
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    Thanks avanzato for answering the question.

    In my opinion, I would prefer not to use any keystoning unless absolutely necessary due to picture compromise and triangular light spill.

    The LMP costs the same no matter the tube length so if I were you I'd order it a couple of inches longer than you need and use the lens shift to line up the picture with the screen. This gives you a bit of leeway when installing and also later on if you need to adjust your screen or even to move the picture up a bit with a 1.85 widescreen picture.

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  11. calscot

    calscot
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    Thanks, Mr Bump. :)

    The extenstion is still on the uplighter 3 months later! I really have to sort out my cabling...

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  12. Stinja

    Stinja
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    A question: How secure is the PJ? Like could a burgular just unscrew the PJ and do a runner, or are the screw-heads special locking or with the tool needed to unfasten them?

    I do wonder about the small light weight of PJs, must be more attractive than trying to do a runner with an Xbox say ;)
     
  13. Smurfin

    Smurfin
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    How much did the mount cost? And how heavy is it?

    Cheers
    Matt
     
  14. uksteve69

    uksteve69
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    If you have a look on www.lmp-pc.co.uk it gives prices for each individual bit. Mine cost £95 which includes the mount, keysyone and ceiling plate cover. Weight will vary with mount length, but is around 2.5kg to 3kg (according to lmp site).
    Looks great by the way and is well sturdy.
     
  15. warrior99

    warrior99
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    I have a Sanyo PLV-Z1 and I'm not sure whether to get the 2 way mount or the 3 way mount. It looks like the 3 way mount gives you sideways tilt control the same as if you had it on the coffee table you would screw the legs in or out either side to level the picture up. My concern is if my ceiling is not absolutely level then the picture will not be straight. Do I need the three way axis or is there another way of balancing the picture up?

    Also what is the best way of connecting it up to the power supply? Would I need to have another plug socket put in near the ceiling?

    Is it easy to thread component cables through the ceiling to get them to come out through the wall what would be involved with this type of task?
     
  16. avanzato

    avanzato
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    My ceiling isn't level so I had to use packing strips to level my mount. The 3 way wasn't available when I got mine and if it had been I'd definitely have paid the extra £10. IMO it is worth it.

    I still have the cables hanging across the ceiling, mainly because I need to move the mount a couple of feet sideways for a new room layout. I live in a bungalow so getting access above is easy, I intend to fit a socket in the ceiling and maybe run the video cables up there as well. Though I may not do this as I'm worried the expensive cables may be chewed by the wildlife that occasionally lives up there.
     
  17. calscot

    calscot
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    I've tidied up the cabling into my ceiling so the mount looks much better.

    The cables used are: power, vga, component and s-video to pretty much cover all bases.

    Here's the photos:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Kramer

    Kramer
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    Nice & tidy :smashin:

    Looks like it's pretty close to your ceiling. Do you close the flap when it's not in use?

    I'm tall (well, I think so, 5'4") so it wouldn't be a problem, but I imagine it could be awkward for vertically challenged (& chairless) owners.

    Nice job though :)
     
  19. Smurfin

    Smurfin
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    LOL typo?:p
     
  20. zAndy1

    zAndy1
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    How did you get that VGA terminal (or is it DVI) through the hole in the mount, isn't it too big (I'm gonna have a similar problem with my DVI cable for my Z2).

    Cheers,
    Andy.
     
  21. zAndy1

    zAndy1
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    Oh, and is it a special long power cable you've got and if so where did you get it from?

    Cheers,
    Andy.
     
  22. buns

    buns
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    Im rather wondering how a dvi will fit through, but I will pass sawing too much until i get home to try it on friday!

    ad
     
  23. calscot

    calscot
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    Thanks for all your interest, and to Kramer for his compliment. :)

    To answer the questions:

    I don't ten to close the flap as it knocks off my fld filter! It's about 7ft of the ground and so most people can reach but no-one should bump their head...

    The VGA cable fits through the top of the tube without too much difficulty if you take the mount apart. It then easily goes through the hole in the side of the tube. The hardest part is putting it back together while it’s up on the ceiling after you’ve threaded everything through. Definitely a 3 handed job!

    When you do this the first limiting factor is whether the terminal fits the access hole in the side of the down-tube (right word?). The second factor is whether all the cables will collectively fit through the hole in the top. The third is that the terminal fits in the diameter of the tube. Obviously there is also now a hole in the ceiling above the mount which is big enough for the vga terminal.

    I think almost any cable should fit.

    The power cable is the normal length supplied one. I now have a surge-protected extension in my ceiling space that comes out the floor, upstairs in the bedroom, plugging into a normal socket. That means mains isolation of the cable is easy with a flip of the switch or simply unplugging.

    Cheers,
    Cal.
     
  24. ShortNick

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    Just got a Z1 (bad time to buy I know but I couldn't wait any longer - first pj and V impressed). Gonna order an LMP mount. Just wondered what size you have, throw distance and screen size. Mine is currently precariously perched on a shelf 6.5 feet from the ground but is "upside down" compared to a ceiling mount and I have to use a lot of Keystone. My screen is 7' width, 92" diagonal. Any guidance would be welcome but I think I'll have to get the stepladders out and try it properly as well (really upside down this time!!)
     
  25. calscot

    calscot
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    My screen is 2m wide which is about 92" diagonal. Throw distance is about 10 feet but I'd have to measure. I'd have to measure the height of the mount.
     
  26. nunew33

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    Agree with Cal, but just to add a bit moredetail. The mount comes in three bits: a plate for the ceiling, the down tube and the mount plate.

    The ceiling plate has a hole in it which is shaped like a Y.

    The top V part of the Y is curved around the central bolt that holds it together. This is where the wires squeeze when you have threaded them through. I got 4 RCA, SVide and VGA (assume its roughly as large as DVI) and there was room to spare (ie for power even though this is warned against). The V bit resides within the tube when assembled, so pushing the cables into this bit b4 replacing tube makes assembly easier.

    The I part of the Y is wide and chunky and is effectively where the bulky connection end of the cable slots through. This is wide enough for DVI (I tries it with the DVI adaptor) with room to spare.

    I used a keyhole saw (great tool - should be murderers weapon of choice, its really sharp) to cut a rectangle that covered the Y shape (About 20mm by 50mm).

    All the cables came through ceiling easily then threaded them one by one through ceiling plate.

    The it I found hardest was fixing this plate to ceiling. Had to tape bolts and plate to ceiling so that I could go to attic and place nuts on bolts (also fitting noggins in was a faff).

    Once this is done thread cables through hole on tube and push tube up.

    Final bit is to put mount plate on and wiggle tube till it slips in recesses made for it, then bolt it all up.

    Hope this is enough detail for those worried about it all looking a bit tight. My tube was 10cm and there was no squeezing or forcing cables through.
     

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