Samsung UE**ES8000 and all UE**ES ranges calibration thread

warren30

Standard Member
Timmie said:
from what I have seen you shouldn't need to change settings between sources unless you are trying to overcome a limitation with a low quality source such as some of the SD Freeview channels when you may want to use some of the noise filtering settings. Some of the settings posted have a very high sharpness (presumably to help out an SD picture) which (unless my ES8000 is very different than the others) will have a bad effect when viewing high quality sources such as blu ray.

By high sharpness I mean greater than 25 (say). I find 14 is about right for Blu Ray (using the AVS709 test disc).

thanks timmie i know it was stupid question but i wasnt sure as its all new having tv like this,my sharpness is 14 at miniute,if i hadnt read this thread all my settings would be high,picture does look good on hd sd not very good might try what you said turn noise on when watch them.i will try blue ray film over weekend,
 

ash582

Active Member
It was mentioned on the AVS forum last night that these work around settings sometimes looked lighter than black and sometimes crushed which is exactly what I noticed, in fact the TV does act strangely sometimes or appears to, what looks great one minute looks different the next without changing anything :confused:

SNAP! I noticed the same thing. Looked awesome at first but about 4 hours later the picture looked a pale and washed-out.

I've gone back to my normal meat-and-two-veg settings with no fancy pants CE-dimming disablement... All good so far.


Ash
 
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Timmie

Active Member
thanks timmie i know it was stupid question but i wasnt sure as its all new having tv like this,my sharpness is 14 at miniute,if i hadnt read this thread all my settings would be high,picture does look good on hd sd not very good might try what you said turn noise on when watch them.i will try blue ray film over weekend,

Definitely not a stupid question. I've got my Blu Ray player going into one HDMI on the TV and my HD DVD player and tiVo going via an amp into another HDMI. I've done this to see if I need different settings for different sources and I found I don't. If you haven't done so already it is really worth downloading the (free) AVS709 test disc as there are some really good videos on there explaining the reasoning behind all the different settings.:thumbsup:
 

warren30

Standard Member
Timmie said:
Definitely not a stupid question. I've got my Blu Ray player going into one HDMI on the TV and my HD DVD player and tiVo going via an amp into another HDMI. I've done this to see if I need different settings for different sources and I found I don't. If you haven't done so already it is really worth downloading the (free) AVS709 test disc as there are some really good videos on there explaining the reasoning behind all the different settings.:thumbsup:

thanks timmie i have ps3 sky hd going in to the tvs hdmi at min getting avr soon go with new speakers and new blue ray player xmas time upgrade it better again, i will check out that download mate havent seen it yet i will download it on my computer watch vids
 

Canary_Jules

Well-known Member
So strange how we all find different results :confused:

I am convinced there are different models of Series 8's out there all with different settings and components otherwise we should all find the settings the same.

Also explains the banding / no banding etc.

Poor OOTB performance, natural variability in panels and different room environments mean that you're not going to get the best out of your TV without a calibration. Swapping settings is always going to be a hit and miss affair (though more miss than hit). There are some settings that can be generally applied across the board and you'll find these in the Picture Perfect campaign. But, to use a travelling analogy, those settings will only get you to the M25 in terms of accuracy when we want to get to Westminster. You can use a set up disc like AVSHD709 or Spears and Munsil to get you a bit closer by dialling in your brightness, contrast, colour and tint, but you'll still be some way out - Bromley, Kingston, Wembley or Tottenham. You can only get to Westminster using a meter and software to dial in the greyscale, gamma and colour. While you can buy this equipment yourself there's a learning curve involved in knowing how to use it effectively, which is where a lot of TV owners (plasma owners in particular, for some reason) often decide to get in a pro calibrator (with more expensive equipment and experience). It's a curious thing, but pro calibrators will tell you that most of their clients are plasma owners. And yet many LED/LCD sets cost just as much as plasma TVs and benefit from calibration just as much. I'd love to understand why more LED/LCD owners don't get their sets calibrated. :) Cheers.
 

mavinwow

Active Member
Surprised how many of you use Standard for color tone. Warm 2 usually looks much better to me, with warm 1 for sports
 

Canary_Jules

Well-known Member
Warm 2 is more accurate. Unfortunately most people's eyes have been conditioned to see a blue shade of white (which Standard is) as being correct - blue dyes in washing powder, blue car headlamps etc. When it comes to TV watching though it isn't. The reference point of D65 is actually a warmer white.
 

Glenn01

Distinguished Member
I found warm 1 and warm 2 make whites go yellow.

I would seriously consider calibration of my LED if I thought it would get the best results from my TV.

Just need to sort the banding first though, as that my require a replacement set yet !
 

kevjp

Active Member
this banding is strange. I put NFL on yesterday in sky sports HD and the picture was superb. Pitch does look dark but no light banding at all. Sky HD premier league - always light banding as the camera pans. Argh!!! All other pictures are really good.
 

Timmie

Active Member
Warm 2 is more accurate. Unfortunately most people's eyes have been conditioned to see a blue shade of white (which Standard is) as being correct - blue dyes in washing powder, blue car headlamps etc. When it comes to TV watching though it isn't. The reference point of D65 is actually a warmer white.

Hi Canary_Jules, can I ask why you say Warm 2 is more accurate? If it is I will use it. I use Standard based on the guidance of AVS709 which says look at a greyscale (IIRC) and choose the colour tone which looks greyest. To me Warm 2 has a rosy glow whereas Standard is very grey.

Update: OK, a bit of googling and I can answer my own question, it seems historically and currently the most accurate Samsung colour tone on all Samsung sets is Warm 2.
 
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V F

Active Member
Warm 2 is more accurate. Unfortunately most people's eyes have been conditioned to see a blue shade of white (which Standard is) as being correct - blue dyes in washing powder, blue car headlamps etc. When it comes to TV watching though it isn't. The reference point of D65 is actually a warmer white.

I found warm 1 and warm 2 make whites go yellow.

I would seriously consider calibration of my LED if I thought it would get the best results from my TV.

Just need to sort the banding first though, as that my require a replacement set yet !

That's the thing, if people are supposedly conditioned to blue like whites, as Glenn said, yellowish whites are not good. White is supposed to be white. Not a blue white and certainly not a yellow white. Otherwise it would be like sticking a Battlefield 3 filter over the screen.
 

V F

Active Member
Hot damn! These settings are practically making the tv jump off the wall.

Though I had to disable Motion Plus as it was making me a little queasy as was the sharpness. I prefer the sharpness at 0. 16 was far too sharp for my liking. I also have Eco Sensor on about 3 as it was burning the backsides of my eyes and picture to Warm1. Oh and as one or two said to turn one of the red's from 5 to 12.



The football on Sky Sports looks absolutely amazing! so fluid and realistically vibrant.

Any recommendations for the Playstation 3 via HDMI?
 
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pdes

Member
This is only just perceptible but annoying nonetheless. When the picture changes on my ES8000 (65"), the first moment of motion often shows a slight hesitation. I have looked for other references in this thread but guess I may not using the right jargon! I can't believe that the more savvy of users haven't come across this. Is there a setting that can stop this? Is it something to do with the games settings?

Thanks
 

avney88

Active Member
I have noticed this as well. Mostly when scrolling credits begin.
Not managed to find a fix for it.
Anyone who has please share
 

arenaman

Moderator
I get this a lot when I change channels, the new picture freezes for about 2 seconds with sound still on then catches up fine. It doesn't bother me that much though
 

rjay60

Standard Member
I set mine up earlier today using my Samsung S27A950D 3d PC monitor which i duplicated a few images on them both and set up my es8000 to mimic the contrast colours etc......i just got my monitor last week and spent hours setting that up.

I then remembered that i have a few dvds with the THX optimiser calibration tool on them (monsters inc) and ran that and i was surprised i was spot on (apart from the colour as you need some kind of blue filter glasses) but would still like to try some other settings that some others have used. :)

You do not need the Blue glasses to adjust colour and tint with the THX disc with Samsung sets. Under the Advanced Settings in the Picture Menu you will have an RGB option or an option for Blue Only. If you have RGB Mode set this to Blue. If you have the Blue only option turn this on. Once you have changed the colour and tint settings turn RGB or Blue Only off again.
 

Moldiver

Active Member
V F said:
Hot damn! These settings are practically making the tv jump off the wall.

Though I had to disable Motion Plus as it was making me a little queasy as was the sharpness. I prefer the sharpness at 0. 16 was far too sharp for my liking. I also have Eco Sensor on about 3 as it was burning the backsides of my eyes and picture to Warm1. Oh and as one or two said to turn one of the red's from 5 to 12.

http://imageshack.us/a/img836/3042/samsungavfsettings1smal.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img843/4643/samsungavfsettings2smal.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img571/1532/samsungavfsettings3smal.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img29/152/samsungavfsettings4smal.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img266/5809/samsungavfsettings5smal.jpghttp://imageshack.us/a/img12/3905/samsungavfsettings6smal.jpg

The football on Sky Sports looks absolutely amazing! so fluid and realistically vibrant.

Any recommendations for the Playstation 3 via HDMI?

I used these only thing is when I flicked to the football the pitch just doesn't look bright,. If I flick to natural it's a vibrant green, standard is just a dull green, how would I go about changing that.
 

V F

Active Member
Odd. Though I've found it depends on the match. Some lighting at specific stadiums it is vibrant while others it's dull and drab looking greens due to less floodlights. Thats not really the settings at fault.

If you were to set vibrant settings for dull stadiums then the vibrant broadcast on the bright stadiums are going to come out insanely neon.
 

Seth419

Standard Member
Hi I recently purchase an ua55es8000, mostly for gaming such as Xbox and ps3. I've search online for the calibration for es8000 but most of them are set to movie mode which I use standard mode most of the time because of game mode on. I'm trying to find a accurate calibration that can get me close to 6500k. I'm not sure whether the color temp warm2 is 6500k. Would be very grateful if anyone could help!

Here's my current settings
--Picture menu
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit

Advanced settings submenu:
Dynamic contrast: Off
Black tone: Off
Flesh tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Native
White Balance: default
10p White Balance: Off
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
xvYCC: Off
Motion Lighting: Off
Black Enhancer: Off

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Standard
Digital Noise Filter: Off

Game mode: On
 
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arenaman

Moderator
Hi I recently purchase an ua55es8000, mostly for gaming such as Xbox and ps3. I've search online for the calibration for es8000 but most of them are set to movie mode which I use standard mode most of the time because of game mode on. I'm trying to find a accurate calibration that can get me close to 6500k. I'm not sure whether the color temp warm2 is 6500k. Would be very grateful if anyone could help!

Here's my current settings
--Picture menu
Mode: Standard
Backlight: 15
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Sharpness: 0
Color: 50
Tint: G50/R50

Screen adjustment submenu:
Picture Size: Screen Fit

Advanced settings submenu:
Dynamic contrast: Off
Black tone: Off
Flesh tone: 0
RGB Only Mode: Off
Color space: Native
White Balance: default
10p White Balance: Off
Gamma: 0
Expert Pattern: Off
xvYCC: Off
Motion Lighting: Off
Black Enhancer: Off

Picture options submenu
Color tone: Standard
Digital Noise Filter: Off

Game mode: On

Yes, warm 2 is closest to 6500k apparently
 

arenaman

Moderator
Thats horrid then. The whites are too yellowish/red and lacking bright whites.

I agree, I'm actually trying cool at the moment which looks good IMO
 

Canary_Jules

Well-known Member
People think that blue whites look better. But in terms of D65 this isn't correct. Warm 2 is actually closest. However, with Warm 2 the greyscale still needs dialling in with a calibration because as it is it is too warm. There's really no way around the issue. If you want your TV to be accurate you need to treat it to a proper calibration.
 

arenaman

Moderator
People think that blue whites look better. But in terms of D65 this isn't correct. Warm 2 is actually closest. However, with Warm 2 the greyscale still needs dialling in with a calibration because as it is it is too warm. There's really no way around the issue. If you want your TV to be accurate you need to treat it to a proper calibration.

You're right but I mentioned somewhere else, what if my eyes don't agree with the calibration? maybe I'm just being cynical but all the calibrated settings that other people have posted look awful, they're maybe "correct" but they don't look good to me.

Yes I know you can't really compare one panel to the next but what's good for one isn't going to be far away from the next is it?
 

Canary_Jules

Well-known Member
You're right but I mentioned somewhere else, what if my eyes don't agree with the calibration? maybe I'm just being cynical but all the calibrated settings that other people have posted look awful, they're maybe "correct" but they don't look good to me.

Yes I know you can't really compare one panel to the next but what's good for one isn't going to be far away from the next is it?

The thing is that every movie is produced to strict technical standards and this is also the case when it's mastered for Blu-ray or HDTV broadcast. The purpose of calibration is to get your TV matching that standard (as well as optimising it's performance) so that you are seeing (as much as possible depending on the capabilities of your display) exactly what the director saw in post production. As a film fan that's what I most desire my display to do for me. The other point about calibration is that you really can't use other people's settings. While there are some basic settings that will be common to all calibrated set ups (e.g. Warm 2), most other settings have to be dialled in using reference test patterns, calibration software and a meter. They will also be fairly unique to your TV. This is because every TV and every TV room is slightly different. That's why other people's settings don't really work for you. I hope that helps.
 

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