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dUnKle

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Blimey

Its gorgeous - but its also very, very, very heavy and the box is HUGE

Mine is now up and semi-running - to impatient to have it looking tidy but have a work in progress (as the picture shows)



With NO calibration at all I have connected my HCPC to it and the image is stunning - chrisp and clear -blacks are blacks, whites are white and I just love the initiall picture

However, I have a few questions which I realise are asked in a few places but just thought would try and group them all together

(I also apologise to (I belive it was) Kableman for asking again - I lost your pvt message - sorry)

(1) Basic settings - likes of colour, brightness etc - any recommendations

(2) More advanced settings such as cinema mode and film mode - any good ?

(3) Connecting to a PC - if I am not bothered with slight overscan then what do I do ? Just a case of telling HDMI to be PC and setting PC to 720@50 ?

(4) Do you HAVE to cyvle through inputs to get the input you want ? Are there any hot keys or discreet codes ? I have a Harmony remote and it used to be a case of telling it what input to use, but from what I can see you have to cycle :( bummer if so - there must be discreet codes or similar

(5) Any other hints and / or tips ?
 


Well Im sat watching I Robot via HCPC and image is gorgeous - very chrisp and clear

However one slight anomoly - the HCPC image seems to be framed - instead of overscan I seem to have "underscan" and the picture has a couple of cms of black at left and right
 
Hi Duncan - no problems mate :)

Your setup sounds perfectly fine. Obviously your settings are a matter of personal taste but have the following basic settings:

cinema mode - this is a must as its the only mode where skin tones look natural and it can turn crappy quality digital tv into something approaching a decent picture. It's also perfect for DVD, HD and PC inputs. Leave standard and dynamic for when you're playing games using a console - although i now use cinema for this too.

other settings based on calibration using THX test disc:

contrast 85, brightness 55, sharpness 75 (for component) and 60 (for everything else), colour 50, colour tone Warm 1 (can't change this in most connections), DNR off, DNIe on (I did experiment for ages at first but decided its best left on most of the time), in detailed colours settings I have green set to zero to avoid the green tint issue.

I am currently also trialing film mode on but haven't noticed any difference as yet.

I have a freeview PVR connected via RGB SCART, my XBOX connected via component with the HD kit so it'll output 720p and 1080i. I use the XBOX for games and watching divx movies. I have my DVD player connected via HDMI mostly and every now and then I unplug it to use my PC via DVI to HDMI.

My DVD player is an upscaler so it can output 480p @ 60Hz for Region 1 NTSC discs, 576p @ 50Hz for Region 2 PAL discs and upscale either to 720p or 1080i. When I'm using the HDMI for my DVD player I edit its name (TV -> Menu) to be HDMI - DVD so that it knows i'm sending it a video signal. But when I connect up the PC I edit its name to be HDMI - PC so that it will automatically scale the PC signal to fit the screen and show the full desktop with no overscan. Prior to this I and everyone else had to use powerstrip and some pretty annoying messing about to get it to fit the screen - this is also true on other TVs - I had a Toshiba DLP before this and it was worse. When in PC mode the desktop will be framed all round by a narrow black border.

This naming the connection and indicating to the TV what signal is coming in makes sense in the USA as both TV and PC are 60Hz and so the TV would not know that one includes an intended overscan (the TV) and one does not (the PC). So I think this is intentional.

Green tint & blocking noise - the HDMI and component connections on this TV will show up poor quality DVDs so avoid upscaling them to 720p or 1080i as this will only make them worse and introduce noise in the backgrounds and increase the likelyhood of background green tint. Since I started following this rule i've not had any dodgy pictures.

If you see rainbows don't sweat it and don't obsess or worry over them as they will diminish - i've hardly ever see them anymore - like 99.9% never!

Enjoy :thumbsup:

Cheers
KableMan

PS. I'm impressed that you managed to get it upstairs :eek: :smashin:
 
(4) Do you HAVE to cyvle through inputs to get the input you want ? Are there any hot keys or discreet codes ? I have a Harmony remote and it used to be a case of telling it what input to use, but from what I can see you have to cycle bummer if so - there must be discreet codes or similar

This is the big one for me too. Hopefully someone will have a solution or answer, as its spoiling what wold be an otherwise perfect TV for me.
 
theronster said:
This is the big one for me too. Hopefully someone will have a solution or answer, as its spoiling what wold be an otherwise perfect TV for me.

It is very chuffing annoying thats for sure - mind you the picture I get when I get there blows me away - gorgeous and loads better than my old Hitachi Plasma

Any idea on the "framing" iussue I get on HCPC input
 
Switching Sources is too slow! This was the only feature on the Toshiba that I missed when I swapped it for the Samsung. But just the other day I was re-reading the manual (RTFM) and I realised you can hit Menu and the first option highlighted is source - hit Enter and then you can quickly scroll up or down to highlight the source you are after and hit Enter again and you switch straight over. It sounds a lot but give it a try.

This is not as nice as the Toshiba instant popup window but its much much faster than cycling through the sources.

Cheers
KableMan
 
KableMan said:
Switching Sources is too slow! This was the only feature on the Toshiba that I missed when I swapped it for the Samsung. But just the other day I was re-reading the manual (RTFM) and I realised you can hit Menu and the first option highlighted is source - hit Enter and then you can quickly scroll up or down to highlight the source you are after and hit Enter again and you switch straight over. It sounds a lot but give it a try.

This is not as nice as the Toshiba instant popup window but its much much faster than cycling through the sources.

Cheers
KableMan

This is my only problem with the set to be honest - that and the strange "framing issue" that I have with HCPC - but I think that may be more to do with PC

Its the opposite to overscan with left and right part of picture not reaching edges
 
under menu choose hdmi type is pc. Then hit p size to fill up the screen.
 
Well mine is finally set up - thanks for all help and advice

rather happy with it I must say

 
I still have a problem when watching movies on my HCPC

Take a look in the picture above and you will see that the image fills the screen (desktop set to 720res)

However when I watch a film on the HCPC i have a black bar of aprox half an inch down both the left and right sides of the screen

I can not for life of me work it out

Pic below

 
Not running a HCPC mate, but there have been discussions of this on other threads. Try asking Razor - he's running HCPC.
 
u using windows media player?
 
Well not mattre what I do I am getting this frame around the picture when watchingmovies via HCPC - the desktop and everything fits fine - but as soon as a movie starts playing the bars appear at the side
 
All seems to be very strange - reading the 1:1 mapping thread I seem to be getting the reverse to everyone else

with HDMI set to anything BUT Pc I get overscan - when HDMI is set to PC I get the black borders - half inch at left and right :(
 
Hello Duncan

I use Theatre Tek and windows media plater classic. I also use fddshow with both of these. I have my fddshow set at 1280x720 in dscaller. I also have set up custom resolutions in theatre tek. 1 in particular for HR HDTV.

With windows media player classic, use the number key pad for re-sizing. you can stretch squash and move the pic around with these keys.

The best results I have seen has been in Theatre Tek, the picture is simply stunning and it plays everything you can throw at it, inc HD.

:)
 
Cheers

Im starting to piece things together

At 50Hz I get the framing - small thin black borders at left and right of screen and yop and bottom (even on desktop) however at 60Hz I get some slight overscan

Nothing will result in the picture filling the screen normally

Also - Using MCE I cant use TheaterTek - and MCE has to stay as its Girlfriend friendly
 
DuncanWardle said:
Cheers

Im starting to piece things together

At 50Hz I get the framing - small thin black borders at left and right of screen and yop and bottom (even on desktop) however at 60Hz I get some slight overscan

Nothing will result in the picture filling the screen normally

Also - Using MCE I cant use TheaterTek - and MCE has to stay as its Girlfriend friendly


You can use powerstrip to resize, its free and very good. I use it all the time to output a near 50Hz signal. :smashin:
 
Razor said:
You can use powerstrip to resize, its free and very good. I use it all the time to output a near 50Hz signal. :smashin:

Can you tell me how to do that ?

Just tried using powerstrip for the 50Hz thing but still get the "frame" problem as above
 
have u pressed the p size button on the remote on 60hz to resize the screen?
 
indie24 said:
have u pressed the p size button on the remote on 60hz to resize the screen?

Is that the one that lets you try w/screen modes ?

Soes that not just artificially stretch picture ? and also does it not reset each time you change channel
 
It should be under display options/advanced timing options. Re-size from there. :)
 
DuncanWardle said:
Is that the one that lets you try w/screen modes ?

Soes that not just artificially stretch picture ? and also does it not reset each time you change channel

It fills the screen so there is no overscan. I dont beleive it atificially fills the screen. Also it stays wether you change the channel or not. Try it
 
Razor said:
It should be under display options/advanced timing options. Re-size from there. :)

Found that but does not allow me to "shrink" or expand the screen - mearly move it around

Tried P/Size button and that only allows to change between 4:3 and 16:9 with no ability to resize

It would seem that the P/Size button only works when a signal of 60Hz is sent

So am I doing correct in having 70@60 and then zooming picture up in p/size ?

Or would it be best left at 50 with te slight overscan
 
i just leave mine at 60hz and p size. Fills the screen up with 0% overscan
 

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