Samsung showcase not freezing

daftpunk1

Active Member
My samsung american fridge freezer is faulty. The top two freezer shelves are not freezing. Ice lollies wont freeze, i put a glass of ice in and turned to water.

I defrosted freezer, hoovered dust off vents, cleared ice off internals and bits of food. It def seemed to fix it but now its doing the same again.

Aby thoughts?

Howmuch are samsung if evaporator needs changing or could i do it myself? How can i test evaporator
 

Squirty

Active Member
When you say it seemed to fix it, how long for?

The odds are that the system has developed a leak, it's very common these days due to the way they are manufactured. If so it's almost definitely not something that can be easily repaired (if at all).

The leaks tend to be on the internal pipework, which essentially means that you can't get access to the pipework without ripping the appliance apart.

Time to get a new machine (probably).
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
Not very long. It was working all day today and just this minute has stopped working.

Hope to god i dont need a new machine, its only 5 year old and cost us nearly 2 grand,

Would a leak not show on my floor?
 

outoftheknow

Moderator
Would a leak not show on my floor?
No unfortunately - the refrigerant is a gas and on the whole you can’t see it smell it - so it leaks and dissipates without you even knowing.
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
But if the refrigerant is leaking then its going to affect all of the freezer and eventually pack in altogether.

My issue is intermittent and affecting top shelf only. A defrost, power reset seems to get it going again. Its also affecting the water dispenser aswell, no water coming out leads me ti believe pipes are frozen
 

outoftheknow

Moderator
But if the refrigerant is leaking then its going to affect all of the freezer and eventually pack in altogether.

My issue is intermittent and affecting top shelf only. A defrost, power reset seems to get it going again. Its also affecting the water dispenser aswell, no water coming out leads me ti believe pipes are frozen
Sorry I was answering your question and not necessarily saying yours has a leak.

if you think something you can’t see is frozen, turn off for a few hours.

that may have two compressors one fridge and one freezer. Top of freezer getting warm makes sense as heat rises.
 

160 Sport

Active Member
I would suggest defrosting it fully for 48 hours as there can be a big ice build up on the evaporator that takes a long time to defrost and then try it. If it works okay for a few days then it could be an automatice defrost fault causing it to over ice and then the fan can no longer circulate the cold air around possibly caused by a faulty defrost heater. The refrigeration system on Samsungs tend to be pretty good and don't tend to leak that often to be honest.
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
That was my opinion too. As i found the defrost procedure and advised it was 20 mins. But noticed that this gap vebt as picture was still blocked up with ice.

My second defrost attemp was for 40 minutes and i unscrewed this panel and let it sit in sun. I still had to chisel ice out.

How do you defrost for 48 hours, i need to keep fridge on so cant unplug, leaving door open the thing just beeps

Is that a vent pictured?
 

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160 Sport

Active Member
That was my opinion too. As i found the defrost procedure and advised it was 20 mins. But noticed that this gap vebt as picture was still blocked up with ice.

My second defrost attemp was for 40 minutes and i unscrewed this panel and let it sit in sun. I still had to chisel ice out.

How do you defrost for 48 hours, i need to keep fridge on so cant unplug, leaving door open the thing just beeps

Is that a vent pictured?
You will have to unplug it and defrost for that amount of time to fully defrost it unless you remove the evaporator cover and defrost it manually with a steamer maybe, otherwise you're pi55ing in the wind I'm afraid! Definitely don't leave it switched on with the door open as you will just make it worse as the compressor will still be trying to cool and causing more ice!.
 

daftpunk1

Active Member
Well its going now so lets hope i fixed it by removing the ice build up in that vent.

I had to dispose of alot of food from upper part of freezer but im confident the lower boxes were still ok
 

noiseboy72

Distinguished Member
We have the same issue with our old Bosch frost free fridge - freezer. The defrosting elements stop working as the control board fails and the main cooling matrix gets totally iced up.

About every 12 months - and in fact, last week I had to remove all the food and take the cover off the matrix. I use a hair dryer to hasten the defrosting and it normally takes about an hour to remove all the ice. Once done, it takes about another 2-3 hours to cool back down to below freezing and about a day to get really cold.

Run your food stocks down and try the same. It looks like the rear cover inside the freezer should come off and then you should be able to access the matrix. The fridge will stay pretty cold for 4-5 hours so long as you don't open the door, so you can turn off the power while you defrost.
 

Squirty

Active Member
Sorry, have been away for a few days so forgot about this thread.

From the replies above it sounds like your system has over iced which blocks the vents. This can be down to something as simple as the door not being shut properly, or as bad as an electronic defrosting fault.
Most likely a door issue though. :)
As has been said above, the only way to to correctly reset an excess ice issue is to 'completely' defrost the machine. This means power off, doors open and leave to defrost/clear at ambient temperature.
Do NOT use any external heat to defrost as there are thermal fuses embedded into the evaporator and excess heat can cause these to pop. (They're a safety issue in case the defrost heater gets too hot or the PCB fails to regulate the time/temp). Once popped the defrost heater will no longer get any power and things start to get very expensive!

Unfortunately there are no shortcuts, 48 hour defrost at ambient is the usual advise, then fingers crossed that it was just a 'door' fault.
 

160 Sport

Active Member
Wow, to begin with you had the issue down to a system fault and advised they would probably need a new appliance, now you conclude that the door was probably left open, are actaully in the white goods trade?

To the OP things aren't necessarily expensive if you get an engineer that knows what they are doing, we repair them all day long, if you find it works okay after the defrost and then starts getting warm again after a period of time it will be down to a fault within the defrost circuit and I would recommend getting in touch with an appliance engineer locally to you.
 

Squirty

Active Member
After gaining more info I simply gave advice regarding other potential faults, it's not rocket science.
Trying to diagnose and give advice freely on forums is a nightmare when you have limited and changing information, as well as other people chipping in with different solutions that could cause more damage such as over heating the thermal fuses via steaming and hair dryers etc.

To answer your question, yes I am an appliance engineer with my own business of 25 years+.
I try to help where I can for zero reward or expectations. I will be the first to admit I'm not the greatest at communicating diagnostic fault finding via text, but I do my best, and I do it to try and help. Nothing more, nothing less.
 

noiseboy72

Distinguished Member
After gaining more info I simply gave advice regarding other potential faults, it's not rocket science.
Trying to diagnose and give advice freely on forums is a nightmare when you have limited and changing information, as well as other people chipping in with different solutions that could cause more damage such as over heating the thermal fuses via steaming and hair dryers etc.

To answer your question, yes I am an appliance engineer with my own business of 25 years+.
I try to help where I can for zero reward or expectations. I will be the first to admit I'm not the greatest at communicating diagnostic fault finding via text, but I do my best, and I do it to try and help. Nothing more, nothing less.
Mate, that's all any of us can do...

Thanks for the info about the thermal fuses. Our 25 year old frost free freezer hasn't been since the 5 year warranty expired. it would pack up every 18 months and they would come and replace the control board. Apparently the board would burn out due to it not being up to the task of switching the defrost heaters on and off.

Since then, we've used the hair dryer trick each year when the efficiency drops, but I can see your point about damaging the thermal fuses. I've always gone quite gently with the heat, but as the heaters don't work anyway, I've never worried too much.

Thanks for the advice.
 

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