Samsung HW-Q950T and HW-Q900T Soundbar - Review & Comments

PlanetaryReference

Active Member
I'm hoping someone can help me out here because my sub sounds way too loud, even on the lowest settings. It sounds exaggerated on the lower frequencies. It rumbles far too much. Is this a defect?

It's not your imagination, nor a defect, as I'll show.

The main problem with the sub's output when in the usually shown orientations within the Samsung ad imagery (i.e. thin front side facing the listener seating position) is asymmetric output. If it's in a corner as well oriented that way it sounds very asymmetric (undermines the surround image symmetry in the process), plus it sounds terrible in a corner due to coupling resonance.

People may hear the sub's sound in all room listening locations, but they sure won't be hearing it at equal amplitude in all locations.

A partial solution to its output asymmetry is to orient the sub in one of its most symmetrical output orientations, plus to locate it in the most symmetrical location in the room (as far from a corner or wall/floor 90 degree as you can manage).

Many people can't or just won't do that. And this sub sounds a bit boomy to rumbly and disappointing if you don't.

I found the most symmetrical sub frequency output orientation to be with the driver’s cone pointing upward, plus this also gave the best lower-mid dispersion, and with the port facing the center of the room (optional), i.e. an orientation that you will never see in any Samsung promo ad image.

I also lifted the lower side of the sub off the floor by ~20 cm, with an open structure under it, to eliminate resonant coupling with the floor (which works well to help reduce most of the boominess and resonant rumble).

Mine is in that orientation in a mid-wall location, and as far from a corner, or 90 degree angle, or 'cavity', as possible. This gave both the best dispersion across the room, with the least boominess and best clarity. I’m OK with it like this. But most people either can't nor won't do this, for various practical or aesthetic reasons.

Most soundbar subs will have similar output asymmetry limitations as this one. The down-firing JBL and the Bose will have less output asymmetry (thus both have real nice sounding subs), plus the Sonos Arc's sub will have about the least output asymmetry, due to its novel duel-driver design which was clearly produced to eliminate as much of the sub’s output asymmetry across a room. By all accounts it works very well, and I don't doubt it (but the frequency range is not great).

But for the current Samsung or LG sub they will need careful placement, and more optimal symmetrical orientation to get the best out of those.

I do find it odd that specialist sub manufacturers make a big deal out of getting the internal aspects of a sub’s design sounding good, but then often leave the external output sound asymmetrically distributed across the room.

IMO the Q950T sub has a good amp, and a strong driver, but the cabinet's design leaves a lot to be desired. It is not good at all. It has the typical internal standing-wave effects of small cheap subs, which you have to counteract with a lot of EQ to flatten them out, plus strong external asymmetry in its conventional marketed orientation position.

Out of the box, in the advertised orientation, I would give the Q950T sub 4.5/10 for sound quality.

But in a more symmetrical output orientation, with a lot of corrective EQ I'll give the sub 9/10 for sound quality. It can be turned from a bit of a flop, into a very capable sub.

Location, orientation and EQ really matter with this sub, but the Q950T has zero sub EQ-ing options out of the box. Next year’s Q950A appears to use the exact same sub, but with corrective auto EQ optimization added to it.

Which will be better, possibly a whole lot better, depending on how flat the output EQ curve is and the time taken in the coding to get that right (yeah ...). But even then the sub's cabinet design will have the same output asymmetry as now, and require a better orientation to sounding its best across any room, before the room EQ is even corrected for.

Hopefully they give it a fully symmetrical sub design in 2022's model though. I would give it an upward firing cone, plus a symmetrical port around its base, plus elevate it off the floor with extendable folding legs on each corner to reduce the floor coupling resonance. Plus the auto-correction room EQ included of course. The 11.1.4. image would be greatly enhanced by such a symmetrical output smooth sub.

Nevertheless, right now I can get that sort of extremely satisfying sound quality out of the Q950T sub, but only via symmetric orientation, placed in a symmetric location in the room, with a lot of precise corrective EQ applied, to remove its internal standing wave cancellation and peak issues.

The good news is this Q950T sub does respond extremely well to doing that, and produces a genuinely mega sounding bottom-end (think Bose sound quality sub output, but perhaps clearer). But the EQ needed to get this sound quality level is detailed, with a lot of cuts and boosts needed to smooth it to flat it and make it clear and musical sounding (rather than the tonal resonance dominated sound it produces out of the box).

Here’s the setting I use on my PC’s output EQ-ing, using the Equalizer APO app, to get the sub to work to perfection, with all forms of music that I feed it.

Hz = dB
23 10.94
30 -28.78
48 -4.29
73 -15.58
77 11.00
89 -17.32
105 13.69
113 -24.57
150 -7.67

As you see the correction range needed is around +/- 20 dB correction range in two locations, top and bottom of its range, to get it actually sounding smooth, deep and very clear. I love the sound actually, it's very nice indeed.

The two decimal places in this setting is in fact the audible change level, and does matter to the sound quality and musicality of the sub. Like the bar's small drivers, this sub’s 8-inch driver is extremely sensitive to small changes in EQ at the right frequency center, to counteract its internal standing-waves. It’s the cabinet design and the lack of system EQ, currently for this Q950T sub and system, which is the problem. The driver and amp are both very strong, deep and clean. But they are in a cheap compromised asymmetric cabinet design, which lets them down badly.

The cabinet is very much the weak link. In fact I would love to experiment with putting the driver and electronics into a custom-made cabinet of my own design and construction, as I'm sure I could make a vastly improved sub enclosure for the Q950T, in that way. But I have it working very well now with the EQ setting, so probably won't bother. But don't go thinking the 8-inch driver is not up to it, because it's real nice sounding once the EQ is sorted.

Samsung can make it better (potentially a lot better) with the 2021 Q950A model's adding sub EQ-ing, but the real solution will be to put this amp and driver, plus the new EQ functionality, into a far better and more symmetrical output cabinet. The resulting sub would match or exceed any ATMOS sound bar in 2022.

But for now, we have to get the best we can out of the existing design and its system limitations (no sub EQ).

This is what my setting above produces:
Q950T Sub EQ Curve and implied raw sub response curve.png


So you're not imagining a low-end spike in the Q950T's sub, there is one and as you can see (visually), it's not small. If your room's natural resonance is also in the same peaking range, then you are going to hear a sympathetic room resonance response from it stimulating the room's angles and surfaces to act like a resonant 'sounding board'.

I removed that internal peak, and the other smaller ones, with the settings given above for my PC's A/V HDMI out to an LG TV, then ARC out to Q950T.

 
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RuleOf7

Novice Member
Hi guys, asking for a friend who owns this Soundbar as well and is planning to buy a Sony KD-75XH9005. Are there any known issues regarding this bar with the KD-75XH9005 in generell and in combination with a PS5 (Audio cutouts, connection issues or something like delayed audio)?

(I personally own the setup Q950T + LG CX + PS5 and have currently no issues so far.)
 

gius85

Novice Member
hi i see a solid red light on the main bar with all other lights turned on blue on the back of speakers and woofer does anybody know what it means thank you
 

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wyabcp

Active Member
It's not your imagination, nor a defect, as I'll show.

The main problem with the sub's output when in the usually shown orientations within the Samsung ad imagery (i.e. thin front side facing the listener seating position) is asymmetric output. If it's in a corner as well oriented that way it sounds very asymmetric (undermines the surround image symmetry in the process), plus it sounds terrible in a corner due to coupling resonance.

People may hear the sub's sound in all room listening locations, but they sure won't be hearing it at equal amplitude in all locations.

A partial solution to its output asymmetry is to orient the sub in one of its most symmetrical output orientations, plus to locate it in the most symmetrical location in the room (as far from a corner or wall/floor 90 degree as you can manage).

Many people can't or just won't do that. And this sub sounds a bit boomy to rumbly and disappointing if you don't.

I found the most symmetrical sub frequency output orientation to be with the driver’s cone pointing upward, plus this also gave the best lower-mid dispersion, and with the port facing the center of the room (optional), i.e. an orientation that you will never see in any Samsung promo ad image.

I also lifted the lower side of the sub off the floor by ~20 cm, with an open structure under it, to eliminate resonant coupling with the floor (which works well to help reduce most of the boominess and resonant rumble).

Mine is in that orientation in a mid-wall location, and as far from a corner, or 90 degree angle, or 'cavity', as possible. This gave both the best dispersion across the room, with the least boominess and best clarity. I’m OK with it like this. But most people either can't nor won't do this, for various practical or aesthetic reasons.

Most soundbar subs will have similar output asymmetry limitations as this one. The down-firing JBL and the Bose will have less output asymmetry (thus both have real nice sounding subs), plus the Sonos Arc's sub will have about the least output asymmetry, due to its novel duel-driver design which was clearly produced to eliminate as much of the sub’s output asymmetry across a room. By all accounts it works very well, and I don't doubt it (but the frequency range is not great).

But for the current Samsung or LG sub they will need careful placement, and more optimal symmetrical orientation to get the best out of those.

I do find it odd that specialist sub manufacturers make a big deal out of getting the internal aspects of a sub’s design sounding good, but then often leave the external output sound asymmetrically distributed across the room.

IMO the Q950T sub has a good amp, and a strong driver, but the cabinet's design leaves a lot to be desired. It is not good at all. It has the typical internal standing-wave effects of small cheap subs, which you have to counteract with a lot of EQ to flatten them out, plus strong external asymmetry in its conventional marketed orientation position.

Out of the box, in the advertised orientation, I would give the Q950T sub 4.5/10 for sound quality.

But in a more symmetrical output orientation, with a lot of corrective EQ I'll give the sub 9/10 for sound quality. It can be turned from a bit of a flop, into a very capable sub.

Location, orientation and EQ really matter with this sub, but the Q950T has zero sub EQ-ing options out of the box. Next year’s Q950A appears to use the exact same sub, but with corrective auto EQ optimization added to it.

Which will be better, possibly a whole lot better, depending on how flat the output EQ curve is and the time taken in the coding to get that right (yeah ...). But even then the sub's cabinet design will have the same output asymmetry as now, and require a better orientation to sounding its best across any room, before the room EQ is even corrected for.

Hopefully they give it a fully symmetrical sub design in 2022's model though. I would give it an upward firing cone, plus a symmetrical port around its base, plus elevate it off the floor with extendable folding legs on each corner to reduce the floor coupling resonance. Plus the auto-correction room EQ included of course. The 11.1.4. image would be greatly enhanced by such a symmetrical output smooth sub.

Nevertheless, right now I can get that sort of extremely satisfying sound quality out of the Q950T sub, but only via symmetric orientation, placed in a symmetric location in the room, with a lot of precise corrective EQ applied, to remove its internal standing wave cancellation and peak issues.

The good news is this Q950T sub does respond extremely well to doing that, and produces a genuinely mega sounding bottom-end (think Bose sound quality sub output, but perhaps clearer). But the EQ needed to get this sound quality level is detailed, with a lot of cuts and boosts needed to smooth it to flat it and make it clear and musical sounding (rather than the tonal resonance dominated sound it produces out of the box).

Here’s the setting I use on my PC’s output EQ-ing, using the Equalizer APO app, to get the sub to work to perfection, with all forms of music that I feed it.

Hz = dB
25 = 10.94
29 = -28.80
48 = -4.24
72 = -15.50
77 = 11.06
88 = -17.24
103 = 13.63
114 = -24.53

As you see the correction range needed is around +/- 20 dB correction range in two locations, top and bottom of its range, to get it actually sounding smooth, deep and very clear. I love the sound actually, it's very nice indeed.

The two decimal places in this setting is in fact the audible change level, and does matter to the sound quality and musicality of the sub. Like the bar's small drivers, this sub’s 8-inch driver is extremely sensitive to small changes in EQ at the right frequency center, to counteract its internal standing-waves. It’s the cabinet design and the lack of system EQ, currently for this Q950T sub and system, which is the problem. The driver and amp are both very strong, deep and clean. But they are in a cheap compromised asymmetric cabinet design, which lets them down badly.

The cabinet is very much the weak link. In fact I would love to experiment with putting the driver and electronics into a custom-made cabinet of my own design and construction, as I'm sure I could make a vastly improved sub enclosure for the Q950T, in that way. But I have it working very well now with the EQ setting, so probably won't bother. But don't go thinking the 8-inch driver is not up to it, because it's real nice sounding once the EQ is sorted.

Samsung can make it better (potentially a lot better) with the 2021 Q950A model's adding sub EQ-ing, but the real solution will be to put this amp and driver, plus the new EQ functionality, into a far better and more symmetrical output cabinet. The resulting sub would match or exceed any ATMOS sound bar in 2022.

But for now, we have to get the best we can out of the existing design and its system limitations (no sub EQ).

This is what my setting above produces:
View attachment 1464257

So you're not imagining a low-end spike in the Q950T's sub, there is one and as you can see (visually), it's not small. If your room's natural resonance is also in the same peaking range, then you are going to hear a sympathetic room resonance response from it stimulating the room's angles and surfaces to act like a resonant 'sounding board'.

I removed that internal peak, and the other smaller ones, with the settings given above for my PC's A/V HDMI out to an LG TV, then ARC out to Q950T.

really ? you need to go through all that just setup a soundbar sub!?
 

AWESOME 4000

Standard Member
Had an issue today: soundbar stopped to play half of sounds, for example: AC Valhalla, when u pick up coins, I stopped to hear collecting sound from soundbar, just from rear speakers. Setup didn't changed, xbox series x - tv LG CX - q950t via eARC. Rebooting all devices gives nothing. Any thoughts?
It was like right middle speaker stoped playing, than left stoped and I stoped to hear most sounds from soundbar.
 
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PlanetaryReference

Active Member
really ? you need to go through all that just setup a soundbar sub!?

Scoff all you want I need the sound of the sub to be good enough to be in my audio system, and comparable to or better than several subs I've had over the past 25 years. It's necessary as I subjectively said I give the sub's sound-quality impression a rating of ~4.5/10 out of the box. If the sub satisfies your discerning tastes, out of the box, then there's no problem for you. But the person I replied to hears similar things as I did. i.e.

I'm hoping someone can help me out here because my sub sounds way too loud, even on the lowest settings. It sounds exaggerated on the lower frequencies. It rumbles far too much. Is this a defect?

and

I’m not sure that ‘rumble’ is the right word to use. The lower end of the bass frequencies sound very exaggerated. It’s the only way I can describe it. There’s a lingering tail-off of every bass / sub note. And the sub itself when turned down still sounds very loud. A poor analogy, but when you hit a light bulb and it becomes very bright before giving out... The sub/bass seems very exaggerated.

This is why I ran a sine wave sweep over the sub in the first place (and was a bit shocked by the dips and peaks in the response).

I replied to the comments about sub response because I found the same imbalances, and some unwanted resonances in a room, which I'm used to hearing good subs perform well within. This sub is loud and strong, when set to be that way, but the sound-quality, due to its raw frequency balance and lack of sub EQ options, is far from my requirements and expectations. When I walked out of the store carrying the Q950T's box, I can clearly remember the sub being my biggest concern and the deciding factor on if I kept it from there, or returned it within the week.

I eventually set it up to disperse the sound the most evenly it could, and reduced the room resonance as much as possible, by placement and elevation off the floor, and EQ-ed it to sound as even and flat, the best it could, firstly with a sine wave sweep tune, and then with a lot of music played through it over a few months.

The sharp peaks and dips shown can be heard by anyone who passes a clean sine wave sweep over this sub's range. There's nothing to dispute there either as those peaks and troughs do audibly exist within the raw sound output. So clearly needs EQ correction, and a lot of it. And the setting I gave is what it took to correct it and then match it's crossover point as smoothly as possible to the bar and the rears.

The problem with Samsung's sub isn't its driver or its amplifier, which are both excellent. It's the overly compromised sub cab design (i.e. styling presentation over audio substance) which requires careful setup to counter its worst features so that the sub driver can deliver its best sound potential. The result is a sub that sounds as good, or better than most I've heard in this room over 25 years.

These sorts of strong EQ balance issues are common to physically small, cheap subs and the ones used on sound bars are typical of that. I fully expected some under-performance from a very compact 8-inch sub, that was just 20 cm wide (thus incredible that this driver can still produce an audibly present 24 Hz). The sub was the biggest risk for me when buying the Q950T, instead of a 'safer' single's system with a known sub with a great reputation. So the first thing I did once I got the system working was check what the sub sounded like (disappointing at first) and tried tuning it with EQ to see if it would perform acceptably. I was delighted to find it was strong and responded well to initial EQ smoothing of bumps and dips.

So yes, it is totally necessary for me to, "go through all that just setup a soundbar sub", as I would like to keep the system for a few years. That was my original intent unless a substantially better system emerged, and I don't wish to accept inadequate sub sound-quality for the next few years.

The Q950T ATMOS surround system is great in many ways, but the sub's sound quality/balance is not one of them. Something Samsung are changing within their 2021 model. But it can be made more than sufficient right now, manually, if an owner sets it up properly. I bought it for PC-based music playback and movies, and to future-proof my PC audio and TV monitor audio, plus a console, and it basically does this to perfection. I am very happy with the sound quality, on the whole it's better sounding than other systems I've heard. But it needed a lot of careful set up to make it perform with music to the quality level I'm accustomed to hearing.

I provide settings to users as a useful starting-point for others seeking to do similar, especially for PC users, so they can also tweak it to suit their personal needs from there, without the fear of buying an unwieldy lemon, and with most of the EQ balance issues and sound-quality and resonances issues ironed out, and problem frequencies that may need adjustment already identified.

But yes, most people will just buy a decent sound bar for TV and maybe a device or two, and will not want to know about optimizing the system for its best performance with music.

But Q950T is half soundbar and also half singles system with basic AVR functions on the bar. So no, it is not just a "soundbar" that is being setup here, it's the most complex reflective Atmos imaging system on the market today and it does require careful setup to get the best out of it. Many people in this thread want to do that.

And EQ-ing is another optimization layer to maximize its performance. It costs ~$1,900 here so it should perform like a similarly priced singles AVR system, which I would also subject to such careful setup and EQ-ing.

This is my expectation, due to coming from a singles AVR system, to this "soundbar" oriented surround system. I'm not willing to compromise on sound quality with a "soundbar". This is what was required to get it to that single-system sound quality level, plus the Q950T 9.1.4 imaging to make it worth keeping. I wouldn't comment here if the audio-quality was not important to me.

So yeah, "really".

Scoff if you want but the sound-quality and the sub quality in particular, will always be vastly superior to what you will get out of the box sans the EQ correction.

If you actually think its fine as is, I suggest you run a sine wave sweep from ~20 Hz to ~150 Hz through the Q950T's sub. You'll easily notice major peaks and troughs in its raw frequency response output.


 
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jonify

Active Member
Everything working after 2/9 Xbox update! This is for @PrMinisterGR since he and I were talking about this 2 months back, and for @AWESOME 4000 too since we were DM'ing about it, because he and I have same exact TV/sound setups. BLUF: before the update, if I connected straight to my LG CX TV, I couldn't get Atmos at the bar. If I connected straight to the bar, I could get Atmos, but lost 120FPS.

Now the detailed post. Before, with the Xbox Series S hooked straight to the bar, I could do 4K/60FPS/HDR/VRR/Atmos, but not 120FPS. Now I've got 120FPS! Before, with the Xbox Series X hooked straight to the LG CX TV, I could get 4K/120FPS/HDR/VRR but no Atmos. Xbox just wouldn't pass it. It would only do Dolby Digital. Now I've got Atmos! [One caveat: for Xbox game titles, if you connect Xbox straight to the bar, you're only going to have 1080p gameplay (movies will still be 4K though); however, connected straight to the TV, you will have 4K gameplay (or 2K, in my case, since I have Series S).

Before, it was a tradeoff of "do I want 4K/HDR gameplay and 120FPS by connecting straight to the TV, while sacrificing Atmos?" or "could I live with 4K/HDR gameplay and 60FPS by connecting straight to the bar, which gives me Atmos?" Now, I don't have to choose. Connecting straight to the TV gives me everything, including Atmos. No audio/dialogue delay, either. I. AM. STOKED.
 
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jonify

Active Member
Scoff all you want I need the sound of the sub to be good enough to be in my audio system, and comparable to or better than several subs I've had over the past 25 years. It's necessary as I subjectively said I give the sub's sound-quality impression a rating of ~4.5/10 out of the box. If the sub satisfies your discerning tastes, out of the box, then there's no problem for you. But the person I replied to hears similar things as I did. i.e.



and



This is why I ran a sine wave sweep over the sub in the first place (and was a bit shocked by the dips and peaks in the response).

I replied to the comments about sub response because I found the same imbalances, and some unwanted resonances in a room, which I'm used to hearing good subs perform well within. This sub is loud and strong, when set to be that way, but the sound-quality, due to its raw frequency balance and lack of sub EQ options, is far from my requirements and expectations. When I walked out of the store carrying the Q950T's box, I can clearly remember the sub being my biggest concern and the deciding factor on if I kept it from there, or returned it within the week.

I eventually set it up to disperse the sound the most evenly it could, and reduced the room resonance as much as possible, by placement and elevation off the floor, and EQ-ed it to sound as even and flat, the best it could, firstly with a sine wave sweep tune, and then with a lot of music played through it over a few months.

The sharp peaks and dips shown can be heard by anyone who passes a clean sine wave sweep over this sub's range. There's nothing to dispute there either as those peaks and troughs do audibly exist within the raw sound output. So clearly needs EQ correction, and a lot of it. And the setting I gave is what it took to correct it and then match it's crossover point as smoothly as possible to the bar and the rears.

The problem with Samsung's sub isn't its driver or its amplifier, which are both excellent. It's the overly compromised sub cab design (i.e. styling presentation over audio substance) which requires careful setup to counter its worst features so that the sub driver can deliver its best sound potential. The result is a sub that sounds as good, or better than most I've heard in this room over 25 years.

These sorts of strong EQ balance issues are common to physically small, cheap subs and the ones used on sound bars are typical of that. I fully expected some under-performance from a very compact 8-inch sub, that was just 20 cm wide (thus incredible that this driver can still produce an audibly present 24 Hz). The sub was the biggest risk for me when buying the Q950T, instead of a 'safer' single's system with a known sub with a great reputation. So the first thing I did once I got the system working was check what the sub sounded like (disappointing at first) and tried tuning it with EQ to see if it would perform acceptably. I was delighted to find it was strong and responded well to initial EQ smoothing of bumps and dips.

So yes, it is totally necessary for me to, "go through all that just setup a soundbar sub", as I would like to keep the system for a few years. That was my original intent unless a substantially better system emerged, and I don't wish to accept inadequate sub sound-quality for the next few years.

The Q950T ATMOS surround system is great in many ways, but the sub's sound quality/balance is not one of them. Something Samsung are changing within their 2021 model. But it can be made more than sufficient right now, manually, if an owner sets it up properly. I bought it for PC-based music playback and movies, and to future-proof my PC audio and TV monitor audio, plus a console, and it basically does this to perfection. I am very happy with the sound quality, on the whole it's better sounding than other systems I've heard. But it needed a lot of careful set up to make it perform with music to the quality level I'm accustomed to hearing.

I provide settings to users as a useful starting-point for others seeking to do similar, especially for PC users, so they can also tweak it to suit their personal needs from there, without the fear of buying an unwieldy lemon, and with most of the EQ balance issues and sound-quality and resonances issues ironed out, and problem frequencies that may need adjustment already identified.

But yes, most people will just buy a decent sound bar for TV and maybe a device or two, and will not want to know about optimizing the system for its best performance with music.

But Q950T is half soundbar and also half singles system with basic AVR functions on the bar. So no, it is not just a "soundbar" that is being setup here, it's the most complex reflective Atmos imaging system on the market today and it does require careful setup to get the best out of it. Many people in this thread want to do that.

And EQ-ing is another optimization layer to maximize its performance. It costs ~$1,900 here so it should perform like a similarly priced singles AVR system, which I would also subject to such careful setup and EQ-ing.

This is my expectation, due to coming from a singles AVR system, to this "soundbar" oriented surround system. I'm not willing to compromise on sound quality with a "soundbar". This is what was required to get it to that single-system sound quality level, plus the Q950T 9.1.4 imaging to make it worth keeping. I wouldn't comment here if the audio-quality was not important to me.

So yeah, "really".

Scoff if you want but the sound-quality and the sub quality in particular, will always be vastly superior to what you will get out of the box sans the EQ correction.

If you actually think its fine as is, I suggest you run a sine wave sweep from ~20 Hz to ~150 Hz through the Q950T's sub. You'll easily notice major peaks and troughs in its raw frequency response output.


Same. The sub makes or breaks a system ... Samsung's sub is plenty powerful, and it has lots of potential, but it's just not good out of the box, at least not in my listening room. I had to tamp it way down and then move it several feet away from where I put it originally. Now, it's delicious. It could sound even better if I could apply additional EQ like @PlanetaryReference did, but I don't use it with a PC, so I had to get by with just the app settings.
 

spikemike

Standard Member
Hey there...

Digging this one up again, for some reason Google Assistant has recently started seeing my Q950T as a "plug" so only on/off commands work and input switching is broken!

I've tried deleting and re enabling Smartthings - Google linking in both the Google Home and SmartThings apps and still the same result.. any ideas?
Yes this happened to me too
 

AWESOME 4000

Standard Member
Just run soundtest by holding "sound mode" button with sound bar off. All speaker make noise. But i still don't hear mid range speakers in games(
I think that maybe an issue with xbox+dolby acess app. Because internal sound test is working fine.
 
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Everything working after 2/9 Xbox update! This is for @PrMinisterGR since he and I were talking about this 2 months back, and for @AWESOME 4000 too since we were DM'ing about it, because he and I have same exact TV/sound setups. BLUF: before the update, if I connected straight to my LG CX TV, I couldn't get Atmos at the bar. If I connected straight to the bar, I could get Atmos, but lost 120FPS.

Now the detailed post. Before, with the Xbox Series S hooked straight to the bar, I could do 4K/60FPS/HDR/VRR/Atmos, but not 120FPS. Now I've got 120FPS! Before, with the Xbox Series X hooked straight to the LG CX TV, I could get 4K/120FPS/HDR/VRR but no Atmos. Xbox just wouldn't pass it. It would only do Dolby Digital. Now I've got Atmos! [One caveat: for Xbox game titles, if you connect Xbox straight to the bar, you're only going to have 1080p gameplay (movies will still be 4K though); however, connected straight to the TV, you will have 4K gameplay (or 2K, in my case, since I have Series S).

Before, it was a tradeoff of "do I want 4K/HDR gameplay and 120FPS by connecting straight to the TV, while sacrificing Atmos?" or "could I live with 4K/HDR gameplay and 60FPS by connecting straight to the bar, which gives me Atmos?" Now, I don't have to choose. Connecting straight to the TV gives me everything, including Atmos. No audio/dialogue delay, either. I. AM. STOKED.
Nice! Hopefully they will update the PC app soon, but since we are actually getting Atmos already, I just hope they don't break anything else :p

So, let me get this straight:
Xbox Series S --> HW-Q950T --> CX
You are now getting 4k/120/HDR/VRR/Atmos with that setup?
 

AWESOME 4000

Standard Member
Nice! Hopefully they will update the PC app soon, but since we are actually getting Atmos already, I just hope they don't break anything else :p

So, let me get this straight:
Xbox Series S --> HW-Q950T --> CX
You are now getting 4k/120/HDR/VRR/Atmos with that setup?
No, xbox - lg cx - q950t via eARC
 
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PlanetaryReference

Active Member
Before, it was a tradeoff of "do I want 4K/HDR gameplay and 120FPS by connecting straight to the TV, while sacrificing Atmos?" or "could I live with 4K/HDR gameplay and 60FPS by connecting straight to the bar, which gives me Atmos?" Now, I don't have to choose. Connecting straight to the TV gives me everything, including Atmos. No audio/dialogue delay, either. I. AM. STOKED.

Awesome, thank you for posting, was really hoping this would get sorted out, still on XOX but now will look into the right OLED to get it working with a new XSX
 

jms_uk

Well-known Member
You do realise you can change the wake word to Echo / computer etc?
Only on official Amazon, echo devices. You can't change the wake word on third party devices that implement Alexa like the one used by this soundbar
 

jms_uk

Well-known Member
Everything working after 2/9 Xbox update! This is for @PrMinisterGR since he and I were talking about this 2 months back, and for @AWESOME 4000 too since we were DM'ing about it, because he and I have same exact TV/sound setups. BLUF: before the update, if I connected straight to my LG CX TV, I couldn't get Atmos at the bar. If I connected straight to the bar, I could get Atmos, but lost 120FPS.

Now the detailed post. Before, with the Xbox Series S hooked straight to the bar, I could do 4K/60FPS/HDR/VRR/Atmos, but not 120FPS. Now I've got 120FPS! Before, with the Xbox Series X hooked straight to the LG CX TV, I could get 4K/120FPS/HDR/VRR but no Atmos. Xbox just wouldn't pass it. It would only do Dolby Digital. Now I've got Atmos! [One caveat: for Xbox game titles, if you connect Xbox straight to the bar, you're only going to have 1080p gameplay (movies will still be 4K though); however, connected straight to the TV, you will have 4K gameplay (or 2K, in my case, since I have Series S).

Before, it was a tradeoff of "do I want 4K/HDR gameplay and 120FPS by connecting straight to the TV, while sacrificing Atmos?" or "could I live with 4K/HDR gameplay and 60FPS by connecting straight to the bar, which gives me Atmos?" Now, I don't have to choose. Connecting straight to the TV gives me everything, including Atmos. No audio/dialogue delay, either. I. AM. STOKED.
Did you switch from owning a SeriesX to SeriesS then or do you have both? Confused.. :)
 

wyabcp

Active Member
Everything working after 2/9 Xbox update! This is for @PrMinisterGR since he and I were talking about this 2 months back, and for @AWESOME 4000 too since we were DM'ing about it, because he and I have same exact TV/sound setups. BLUF: before the update, if I connected straight to my LG CX TV, I couldn't get Atmos at the bar. If I connected straight to the bar, I could get Atmos, but lost 120FPS.

Now the detailed post. Before, with the Xbox Series S hooked straight to the bar, I could do 4K/60FPS/HDR/VRR/Atmos, but not 120FPS. Now I've got 120FPS! Before, with the Xbox Series X hooked straight to the LG CX TV, I could get 4K/120FPS/HDR/VRR but no Atmos. Xbox just wouldn't pass it. It would only do Dolby Digital. Now I've got Atmos! [One caveat: for Xbox game titles, if you connect Xbox straight to the bar, you're only going to have 1080p gameplay (movies will still be 4K though); however, connected straight to the TV, you will have 4K gameplay (or 2K, in my case, since I have Series S).

Before, it was a tradeoff of "do I want 4K/HDR gameplay and 120FPS by connecting straight to the TV, while sacrificing Atmos?" or "could I live with 4K/HDR gameplay and 60FPS by connecting straight to the bar, which gives me Atmos?" Now, I don't have to choose. Connecting straight to the TV gives me everything, including Atmos. No audio/dialogue delay, either. I. AM. STOKED.
great to hear, any noticeable lag ?
 
Last edited:

Crazydragon

Novice Member
Everything working after 2/9 Xbox update! This is for @PrMinisterGR since he and I were talking about this 2 months back, and for @AWESOME 4000 too since we were DM'ing about it, because he and I have same exact TV/sound setups. BLUF: before the update, if I connected straight to my LG CX TV, I couldn't get Atmos at the bar. If I connected straight to the bar, I could get Atmos, but lost 120FPS.

Now the detailed post. Before, with the Xbox Series S hooked straight to the bar, I could do 4K/60FPS/HDR/VRR/Atmos, but not 120FPS. Now I've got 120FPS! Before, with the Xbox Series X hooked straight to the LG CX TV, I could get 4K/120FPS/HDR/VRR but no Atmos. Xbox just wouldn't pass it. It would only do Dolby Digital. Now I've got Atmos! [One caveat: for Xbox game titles, if you connect Xbox straight to the bar, you're only going to have 1080p gameplay (movies will still be 4K though); however, connected straight to the TV, you will have 4K gameplay (or 2K, in my case, since I have Series S).

Before, it was a tradeoff of "do I want 4K/HDR gameplay and 120FPS by connecting straight to the TV, while sacrificing Atmos?" or "could I live with 4K/HDR gameplay and 60FPS by connecting straight to the bar, which gives me Atmos?" Now, I don't have to choose. Connecting straight to the TV gives me everything, including Atmos. No audio/dialogue delay, either. I. AM. STOKED.
Please can you help me then - I have XBOX series X >LG CX > Q950T and I have set up CX as:
Atmos - on
Sound out - ARC
DTV Audio - Auto
ALL HDMI set to Bitstream
Digital sound out - pass through
eARC - enabled

using dolby access XBox settings are
HDMI audio - bitstream out
Bitstream audio - this defaults to stereo

When I try to set Atmos in the XBox I get the error message "Your reciever doesn't support Dolby Atmos for home theatre" which it clearly does - I have certified brand new 2.1 HDMI cables so I know it is not that (I get beutiful HDR gaming on AC Valhalla)

What are your settings to get this? Any help will be greatly appreciated
 

Westgod

Member
Please can you help me then - I have XBOX series X >LG CX > Q950T and I have set up CX as:
Atmos - on
Sound out - ARC
DTV Audio - Auto
ALL HDMI set to Bitstream
Digital sound out - pass through
eARC - enabled

using dolby access XBox settings are
HDMI audio - bitstream out
Bitstream audio - this defaults to stereo

When I try to set Atmos in the XBox I get the error message "Your reciever doesn't support Dolby Atmos for home theatre" which it clearly does - I have certified brand new 2.1 HDMI cables so I know it is not that (I get beutiful HDR gaming on AC Valhalla)

What are your settings to get this? Any help will be greatly appreciated
This is happening to all of us unfortunately. Not quite sure where in the chain the error lies but it's very annoying
 

AWESOME 4000

Standard Member
Please can you help me then - I have XBOX series X >LG CX > Q950T and I have set up CX as:
Atmos - on
Sound out - ARC
DTV Audio - Auto
ALL HDMI set to Bitstream
Digital sound out - pass through
eARC - enabled

using dolby access XBox settings are
HDMI audio - bitstream out
Bitstream audio - this defaults to stereo

When I try to set Atmos in the XBox I get the error message "Your reciever doesn't support Dolby Atmos for home theatre" which it clearly does - I have certified brand new 2.1 HDMI cables so I know it is not that (I get beutiful HDR gaming on AC Valhalla)

What are your settings to get this? Any help will be greatly appreciated
Do u have latest firmware on tv and soundbar?
 

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